Here is a list of all the postings Ronaldo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What to stick acetate sheet with?|
Ps ..... I have also used canopy glue on iron on film with success, sand the gluing area with fine abrasive sandpaper first. If you are worried about scratching the film beyond the gluing area, I usually put masking tape on the film up to the canopy glue line first so I don't accidently over sand the area and spoil the film around the canopy.
My first impressions of Canopy Glue were on the negative side, I couldn't get it to stick ! but then after giving it another try, I realised the mistake was mine .... having got used to using today's fast setting glues, I just wasn't allowing canopy glue enough time to go off ! So now I carefully rough up the gluing area on the edge of the canopy with fine abrasive sandpaper, then apply the glue and clean off the excess. Then where I can I use tape to hold the canopy down to the fuselage surface. As mentioned earlier it's recommended to leave 24 hours, but I leave it for 48 hours. I know most of here are now used to using quicker setting glues these days, but its worth giving the canopy glue time needed to go off .... I've never had a canopy glue failure yet.
Another tip I discovered is, old dried canopy glue can be removed with gently wiping with a soft cloth and methylated spirits, providing you first check it doesn't damage the surface the glue is stuck on.
|Thread: Your best vacuum cleaner?|
I also have the Dyson Animal ... So powerful it's sucked up and, disposed of numerous nuisance cats in my garden over the years ..... ( don't worry animal lovers ... only joking! )
Had it for 10 + years now with no problems, as long as the filters are cleaned regularly.
|Thread: Blown TX Fuses|
|I had this happen on my JR pcm9x Tx. After charging, I switched on, the screen lit up for a brief moment then all went dead. True enough on inspection the fuse had blown. So this doesnt only effect the charging side, but also lost power to the whole Tx. Luckily I had a spare fuse of the same rating, I replaced it and all was fine. After that I now leave it around 15 mins after charging before switching on. No problems since. I have now gone over to Spektrum and still leave for around 15 mins before swiching on. |
|Thread: Problem with Irvine Z Bend Pliers|
David I've had this problem for years when using 2mm pushrods and I'm rather surprised that as yet there's still no other manufacturer I know of who has rectified this by making a new Z bend pliers to correctly make Z bends to fit standard 2mm pushrods to standard servo arms, surely that's what the majority of modellers use them for ?!
My remedy is to put a slight bend in the rod about 10mm behind the 'Z bend' between the servo and control surface so it doesn't twist the servo arm. Still looks tidy and works for me.
|Thread: Alternative sources of closed loop wire|
I got mine from ebay, just type in 'fishing trace wire' I got a whole reel of It cheeeep, should do all the models I'm ever likely to build
I prefer the plastic coated, helps prevent the wire cutting thru tube outlets, fuselage sides, etc, and as mentioned above by Gurth Scriven 2, it stops bare wires rubbing against each other if crossed ... it still surprises me that some kits I've had supply the 'bare wire' type, so I replace all these with my own plastic coated wire
|Thread: Lost thread|
I found a lost thread the other day, when I retraced it back to the beginning .... my shirt sleeve fell off .......
|Thread: Where do you keep your bits ?|
.... I keep all my 'bits' in a 'bit' drawer ... problem is, now my whole workshop feels like it has become a 'bit' drawer !
|Thread: DLE 20/petrol engines - remove throttle return spring?|
..... and as I forgot to mention as Tom and Ultymate said above , prevents wear on the butterfly.
Ok Rich. Agreed there's not a lot of resistance on the spring that a decent metal geared servo can't handle, but I prefer to unclip it, ... cos' ''Resistance is Futile'' ( whoops sorry, couldn't 'resist' adding a bit of Borg lingo )
If you do decide you don't want it on, just unclip it from the arm and leave the spring on the throttle arm's shaft. this will take up any play, preventing wear on the shaft caused by vibration when the engine is running, leading to sloppy throttle response and fuel leaking from the throttle arm shaft. I've always found that most throttle arms have a bit of play and can slide in and out freely when the spring is removed completely
I do this with all my petrol engines and have no problems with the idle setting.
|Thread: Don't You Just Love Those Muffler Bolts?|
I've used blue thread lock, backed up with split/spring locking washers on 30cc up to 111cc with no probs.
|Thread: METAL TUBES|
Nice one thanks. Added to my favourites
|Thread: How old are we?|
.... the poll results so far adds up about right in my case, Now at my club field very few are younger than me, while most are older . When I started in my youth, there were loads at my age in the hobby, seems like we've all got older together with no more young uns coming in to the hobby .... scary !
|Thread: have you been affected by the weather?|
Here in West Yorks we lost a few ridge tiles but fortunately not raining in, so no immediate need to climb up and fix it till the weather improves. I usually try to do my own repairs. I've seen what kind of repairs some builders/roofers do .... by mixing a weak cement mortar mix which only last 3 to 5 years if lucky, I suppose it keeps them in a job for when the next round of bad weather comes again, honestly the mortar just crumbled away in my fingers ! The last roof repair I did myself was 20 years ago and is still holding up even in this stormy weather. Fotunately I also put a new bitumen corrugated roof on my workshop last year and secured it well, ...... that's still on thankfully.
( I must admit I do tend to 'overkill' my 'fixings' a bit, same as on my models )
Anyway my damage is nothing compared to what the others have had. For many it will take years to recover, or maybe never ! My heartfelt sympathies go out to them.
|Thread: Nylon bolt supplier identification assistance please.|
.... and heres some more Hip Hip Hip Hoorahs, and 'For they're jolly good fellows', etc etc from me to Modelfixings.
Reliable, quick, every nut, bolt, fixings we modellers are ever likely to need plus more, ... and as for their servo screws .... 'brilliant'! I would never use anything else!
|Thread: Cyano Allergy?|
There's no doubt cyano is a good strong convenient glue for us modelers, but the fumes effects me really badly too, which is a shame because I use it a lot in modeling. It got to the point where I was sneaking out the missus's paper kitchen towels into my workshop when she was'nt looking, just for clearing my nose and sneezing into ! Which I may add didn't go down very well with her LOL . I was even considering giving up using cyano alltogether.
Then I remembered a mask we used to wear when I worked in a chemical factory years ago. It was the 3M 9913 carbon impregnated mask. No heavy cannisters with this one, just a light weight carbon impregnated face mask, and comfortable to wear. I managed to get some more and I found these very good and effective which allowed me to continue using cyano. But I also make sure I still have some ventilation and I stand back from the work once I have glued it up. They can be expensive, last time I googled it, they were around £60 for a box of 20 ! But after a search on ebay I found a BNIB of 20 for £20.
I find that if you wear one just for the few minutes it takes to do the job and for the cyano to go off, then remove the mask and store in a clean place, you can use the same mask for a number of times before it becomes ineffective. So a box of 20 goes a long way !
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Going electric!?!?|
On the subject of 'branching' out into 'electric'. I must say I'm a confimed dedicated 'IC' petrol power flyer ..... or so I thought I was untill I decided to have a dabble with electric powered gliders. I was so impressed by a clubmate's 'Reichard Scorpion' electric glider, easy to set up, just attach the wings, fit lipo under canopy, switch on and fly. Great if you're not sure what the weather is doing, if there is a slightish hint of rain, then just land and put in the back or underneath the car, and sit it out drinking coffee till hopefully the rain passes over. No dashing around trying cover up a large petrol model or dismantle it and packing away your flight box etc in the rain.
So I then decided to get myself a 'Reichard Sprinter' electric glider ... and give it a go ... and oh boy I was hooked ! Then I went on to get a fully composite RCRCM 'Sunbird' and ' Hornet' from T9 Hobbysport, fitted electric motors, these two are fast, aerobatic, and give a real adrenalin buzz and I've never looked back since ! Also the Sunbird is only 1.5 metre span and is small enough for taking on hols, so I'm never far from enjoying my flying.
I still fly my petrol models, and I always will, but I now also take an electric glider along too, and not just on dodgy weather days, but also on good days. It's a real pleasure to point the nose up on my electric powered gliders and climb fast vertically up into the blue sky, turn the motor off, then nose down into a fast dive and see how many rolls, loops, bunts, etc I can do before I have to pull up, power up and climb back up into the blue yonder again !
So if you're thinking of giving electric powered gliders a go, .......... then I say go for it !
|Thread: Winter build|
Hey that's a very nice clean build. Great to see some good old 'traditional' building being done. Make me want to get down my 'Balsa USA Nieuport 28' kit off the top of my wardrobe and start a winter build project. The kit's been sat up there for years ... and years ......... and ............. yes, years LOL
|Thread: BMFA regulations|
Hi Jamie, I've built and flown a few 100cc aerobatics such as Yaks, Sbachs, Sukhoi etc, and they all weighed from between 22lb, up to a 29lb model with a smoke system fitted. These are the more realistic weights that is normal for this size of model, and even at these weights they can be a bit of a 'floater'. So don't worry if you're thinking they are too heavy.
My club flies at a field which is also open to the general public, and we must have BMFA insurance and a 'B' certificate to fly this weight and size of model. Not sure what weight regulations apply with this size of model where you are up in the Highlands with all that open space.
All the best with the build and the hobby.
|Thread: dsm2 ....dsmx whats the difference|
I have a QQDX18 and i use it with both DSM2 Rx (spektrum and my old JR Rx's ) and the DSMX Rx.
No probs', they both work fine. The DSMX also connects to the Rx much quicker when switched on, also it re- connects quicker if Tx signal is lost for a moment, i tried this by switching the Tx off and back on again.
Even tells me on the Tx screen if its a DSMX or DSM2 Rx it's transmitting to, nice piece of kit
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