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Member postings for Depron Daz

Here is a list of all the postings Depron Daz has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Another Aldi offer for us modellers.
16/10/2013 19:33:23

For what you get, this looks like fantastic value for money. I just need to get to Aldi. **LINK**

Thread: Cheap airbrush
16/10/2013 19:23:25
Posted by Michael Ramsay-Fraser on 10/09/2013 21:24:40:

As I will inevitably be asked to do the spray tan job on my Mrs, my plan is to make a bit of a botch up of it. A few runs, a couple of light patches and it will soon be consigned to the 'seemed like a good idea at the time' cupboard. At that point, it will gravitate to my workbench.

Now that is what's called using your initiative!

My wife used to run a beauty treatment business from home, and had to fold it up due to the recession, so I ended up with her beauty room as my model room, which has a few kitchen style cupboards, about 6 metres of kitchen worktop along two walls, nice hardwood flooring and hidden in one of the cupboards is her spray tanning compressor and airbrush. I already have two, but this is one of those HVLP jobbies, and is worth a lot of money apparently. Over time she has sold a few things to try and recoup some money back, like her beauty couch, nail bar and varnishes (£20 for 1 bottle of varnish, and she moans at me for spending a tenner on a cheap little motor!) It is a shame however that I spilt a bottle of Tamiya Dark Earth all over the compressor! Guess she won't be selling that now, and so like you Michael, I too will soon own one, nudge nudge wink wink......

Thread: 76" Depron Vickers Valiant
15/10/2013 11:28:03

Morning Graham.

I've tried sharpening the blades, but I bought 100 No.11's off ebay for £10, so I tend to just replace than spend time sharpening. I should do really, I have a whetstone from my woodworking days (Japanese oil stone actually) which gets awesome results on my chisels and planer blades.

Regarding the retracts, They have all since been removed, and I'll tell you why. The nose wheel bearers broke off on her maiden taxi, and the resulting exiting nose wheel ended up going through the fuselage causing a dirty great hole. So now she is hand launched as she is only 5lb, and there are a couple of fearless guys at the club willing to launch it for me! I may convert her to bungee launch over the winter months, so then I am not dependent on others.

The main wheels were perfect. The ply box that you can see inside the wing located onto a dowel pin coming from the fuselage so that there was immediate support for the area. The rotation on take off would have to be when the plane was ready to lift, rather than you using elevator, as the prop was close to the ground. It is doable as Electriflier shown above has his like this.

I prefer working with depron, I get really affected by balsa dust, even when using a mask, it really irritates my breathing and skin.



Thread: Tony Nijhuis' new Vulcan
15/10/2013 11:05:38

I managed to find on Google Images the 3 views with the formers and ribs already drawn all in one plan. I just had them enlarged at my local print firm for £20, and then cut them out and transferred to depron. The Valiant does not have any plans, and I can't use CAD, so I'm drawing and making paper templates. It's a long process, but no doubt quicker than trying to learn a CAD program. I'd probably be better off using Etch-a-sketch lol

I get my grey depron off Ebay, here **LINK** They are the cheapest and very quick delivery, I've never had any damaged parcels either. They do 3mm too, and they sell the white, but remember what I said about it being more brittle. Grey shapes better, and is kinder on your blades.

If I said that my Valiant build so far was only 4 evenings of cutting (not including redrawing) would you be more likely to give it a try? Use UHU POR glue (buy it from the site above, half the price of anywhere else!) but don't forget that it is a contact glue, so apply it to one part, put it in place to leave a trace on the other piece, and then remove it and allow 10 minutes to dry, and then put it back. It sticks like the proverbial brown stuff on a blanket!


15/10/2013 00:50:51

Hi Piers.

Thanks for your kind words. It is built over 6mm thick depron formers and ribs, just like how you would do with a normal balsa build. The skin is 3mm depron, and the fuselage section is individual panels cut to size to and shaped accordingly. The depron is curved over the rolled edge of a kitchen counter work top, or around a cardboard tube, and it holds it's shape really well. I use UHU POR foam contact glue.

I use the grey depron as this isn't as brittle as the white, and I find it curves a lot easier. Here's a photo mid build which shows both the framework and the individual skin sections. The nose section slides forward revealing the battery and electronics tray. Once it was all built I spent some time using lightweight filler where needed, and then careful sanding, down to 600 grit. I then used emulsion paint directly over the foam, which I then sanded back considerably, before using acrylic car spray rattle cans. My current depron build of a 76" Vickers Valiant will be finished with light glass cloth and water based polyurethane, rather than the emulsion paint, as this added a lot of weight, and took ages sanding back to get a fairly smooth surface.

Here's the link to the full Vulcan build on RCGroups if you're interested **LINK**

Kind regards


Edited By Depron Daz 393 on 15/10/2013 00:54:21

14/10/2013 23:57:52

Can I show you guys my 66" all depron Vulcan XH558? She is powered by a single pusher prop. AUW 5lb, 2 x 2200 3s lipos. In this photo she wasn't quite finished, but has now got all of her markings and extensive panel lines drawn on. She flies beautifully for around 9 minutes at less than half throttle. She even won "Best pilots choice" at the Sothern Area BMFA meet held at BMAC in September this year!


Thread: Bristol Blenheim Mk1V
14/10/2013 23:30:15

I'm really impressed with your build of this model. I love the way you have built the nose section, very clean and tidy.

I recently scratch built a MkIV using the old BalsaCraft plan. Didn't have the kit, just the plan. My granddad flew in them in WWII as the navigator/WO, and sat in the "greenhouse". So when I built mine it just had to be the MkIV. This was my first ever balsa built plane, and I'm very pleased with the result.

The hardest bit was obviously building the extended nose section, which is ply formers and sheet balsa. Each pane is individually set, and formed by bending around a paint brush. The nose is secured with a couple of 6mm dowel pins and 4x 6mm magnets. The battery sits inside the nose.

It has electric retracts and nav lights in the wing tips.

It's not brilliant, but for my first ever balsa build, it will do!


Edited By Depron Daz 393 on 14/10/2013 23:34:29

Edited By Depron Daz 393 on 14/10/2013 23:37:27

Thread: 76" Depron Vickers Valiant
14/10/2013 21:01:01

On my Vulcan wing I made a centre panel from 6mm depron, which was cut to the general shape of the wing. Either side of the panel went the wing ribs, again 6mm, and then 3mm skin over the top. I used a long 6mm carbon rod near the trailing edge which went into a brass tube in the fuselage. I also had a short 6mm carbon rod near the leading edge, again going into a brass tube.

This centre panel was extensively lightened using the copper tube to try and cut down some of the weight. I get absolutely no wing flapping even on steep dives and pull outs.

What I like most is the size I can build for the costs involved of the materials. I used a few bits of balsa on the Vulcan build just to strengthen a few areas up, but once the skin went on I think that there was no need. On the Valiant, I will use two 5/8 x 1/4" strips along the bottom of the lower centre section keel either side to strengthen it up for belly landing, but also the bungee hook will be attached to this and will spread the load along the whole section.

I don't know if you ever go on RCGroups forum, but look up my Vulcan build (Daz393), and also check out a guy called Electriflier. He's awesome with depron, and has built some beautiful large scale models.

Edited By Depron Daz393 on 14/10/2013 21:06:19

Edited By Depron Daz393 on 14/10/2013 21:12:14

14/10/2013 20:28:25
Posted by Foamie Dave on 14/10/2013 19:58:59:

Amazing job !!! smile p

Thanks Dave.

14/10/2013 20:08:33

Welcome aboard Colin.

The only thing with depron is the need for a large supply of new scalpel blades! I bought a box of 100 No.11 blades and have already used 7 so far. Once they blunt they tend to snag the foam, and white depron is more brittle but really blunts them quickly, with the grey being more springy and a little more forgiving on the blades.

The 3mm depron in grey is IMO much better for forming curves, even compound curves. I use UHU POR glue, and believe it or not, the Vulcan used 4 tubes!

Try and avoid 90 degree butt joints, but instead cut slots into both parts and the rigidity is amazing, and gets better once the skin goes on. On the Vulcan I painted it with emulsion paint first and after lots of sanding down I used acrylic car spray rattle cans to have a nice shiny surface, however on the Valiant I plan to use a light glass cloth and water based polyurethane to try and give some protection, as the depron's only real downside is hanger rash.

Give it a try Colin. My Vulcan cost me about £20 in depron, much cheaper than balsa. I also build in balsa so don't shoot me down for saying that, lol!


14/10/2013 19:46:53
Posted by Colin Leighfield on 14/10/2013 19:12:38:

That's inspiring Daz. The Valiant was a great plane in its' own right and that's going to be a stunning model. The black B2 would be a great subject as well, I think they only built one and didn't get an order, more's the pity.

Hey Colin, thanks for the kind words. Yes they built one called the B2 which was slightly longer in the nose and the main gear retracted backwards into the wing pods. They also drew up a B3, but that was shelved as no B2's were ordered, as you rightly state.

14/10/2013 19:35:30

With the side view and down view lined up (as above) I drew on where I want the nose section formers to be. The nose will be detachable by sliding on and off with a couple of small magnets to hold it secure. I can now start to cut up some depron! The nose section is kept simple at this stage by removing the cockpit bulge and the bomb aimers window bulge. They'll be added once this has all been skinned.

The square section is where the battery tray and the electronics tray will be.

And once this was finished, I set about losing some weight by using a sharpened piece of copper tubing.

With the nose done I move on to the tail section. I have deliberately left the centre section until last as I know this will take the longest as there is so much work involved.

A little bit more weight loss!

I managed to get some more done today. The dreaded centre section. I was in two minds how to tackle this part. Originally I said I'd do a flat plate in order to achieve the desired 2 degrees of incidence, but then I changed my mind and decided that I would do it the same way that I done my Vulcan. However, seeing as there are no drawn plans for the formers and ribs of this centre section, I reverted back to the flat plate idea.
Also, when I cut out the three view drawings after I had them enlarged, I noticed that the centre section wasn't drawn very well and was one sided, so I started off today drawing a new section straight onto the depron, only this time it was nice and square.
I also drew a side view of the centre section and drew in the incidence line. This then gave me the template for the upper and lower keel either side of the incidence line, as well as the locations for the fuselage formers. So, once all that was drawn it allowed me to get cutting some depron!

I now start to make the wing root ribs. This is a slightly modified Clark Y in that the frontal lobe of the aerofoil has been "bull nosed" a little to help achieve the jet intakes. The underside of this plate will have to have an even more greatly modified aerofoil as the intakes are huge underneath the wing incidence line.

With both sides of the wing root ribs and formers complete, the thankless task of boring hundreds of lightening holes begins! I'm not convinced it saves a great deal of weight, but it sure looks good!

The next step is to build up the underside of the incidence plate, and make up the battery tray.

Well, that's as much as I've got done so far. Please feel free to comment cheeky


14/10/2013 18:46:10


This is gonna be BIG! The dog is a very large Yorkshire Terrier, not fat, just big boned!

Now, I will be adding the drop tanks on the wings, but I would like them to be several things:
Firstly, when the plane belly lands and slides, I need these tanks to be able to take a bit of weight. The idea being that the belly takes the weight of the plane, but as it slows it will drop either wing and come to rest on the tank;
Secondly, I want to be able to remove them for storage and transportation.

I have already thought that I will need to use a ply rib in the wing where these tanks will mount, and that there will be two 6mm carbon rods running through this rib, into the fuz and out to the other tank rib. I'm stuck on how I can make them detachable.

Well, I've spent this evening cutting out the 3 views, to find that the print is out of shape in accordance with the centre datum line, especially on the down view, and by some margin. I had the plans printed on A0 sheets, and the down view spreads out across 3 sheets by 2.
The plan is to build the fuz in 3 sections, nose-mid section-tail. so I've been concentrating on the mid section so far. I knew I would have to do an engine-ectomy and reposition the exhaust tubes 1" further outboard so that I can fit up to 9" props, as where they were originally 8" props would have struck the fuz. It was at this point when I was establishing the final exhaust positions against the centre datum line that I saw that the print was out.
I have now placed the exhausts where I want them, and have triangulated forward from the centre line of the outer exhausts to a point equally measured, and now realise that I am going to have to basically redraw this mid section of the fuz so that it is all square and equal.
I know that if I built it using the plans as they were then it would've ended up like a banana, so a few extra hours redrawing will be worth the effort..............hopefully. The nose and tail sections will be a lot easier!
The idea being is that the paper plan of the mid section will give me an outline for the flat plate for the wing box in order to achieve the 2 degrees of incidence when attaching the upper and lower spines, as in Pontious' Valiant build log **LINK**

I also think I will need a bigger build table, lol

Edited By Depron Daz393 on 14/10/2013 19:09:34

14/10/2013 04:22:14

Evening all.

Over the next few days I will create my build blog of my latest build, the 1/18th scale 76" Vickers Valiant. I started it a couple of weeks back, so I will update it to the point of where I am now with the build.

It is totally scratch built, I have no plans and I am just building from the 3 views which I had enlarged. The frame work is 6mm white and grey depron and the skin will be 3 mm depron. AUW is expected 5lb and she will be powered by 2 3530 sized motors in pusher configuration. This will be hand launch primarily but will also have a spring loaded bungee hook.

I recently finished a 66" Depron Vulcan XH558, using a single pusher, and she flies beautifully. If I get time I will do a blog on the Vulcan too. I'm not sure if I'll make the Victor to complete all 3 "V" bombers, but I am seriously considering the Vickers VC10 of similar scale.

Kind regards


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