Here is a list of all the postings Mark Stringer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Jabberwock RTS (ready To Skip)|
I have seen your email - i have a "real" job these days so will check my stocks to see what parts i can help you with as soon as i get chance but i only have what was left in stock when Ratby became a hobby rather than a business.
Lovely to hear you are renovating these JJ's - do send pictures when they are done.
Be in touch soon
Edited By Mark Stringer on 12/09/2019 13:30:09
|Thread: Anet A8|
Yes - one of the Markers at the bottom of the screen brings up the scale selection .. you may want to adjust layer height and fill values too if you adjust the scale.
Here is a quick video:
One of the most important things is to get your bed levelling right so spend plenty of time on that.
It is well worth adding the auto-levelling sensor but you will want it working first to print the parts its needs anyway so do it the manual way first
After that i have found that the two vertical axes can get out of sync occasionally so i use a spacer that fits in the one gap (white bit to black base - see pic) and gently hold that motor shaft while i very gently adjust the other one to be exactly the same distance.
A symptom of this is having the first layer being stringy / loose rather than nice and tightly meshed together.
Then pop to B&M and get some Duck Tape wide masking tape and a can of hairspray (I started with their own but now have Elnettt - both work well). That tape on the bed isn't great and without decent hairspray will rip off when you take the first print off it.
I tend to do a pre-heat from the menu to get the bed warm which makes it easier to peel the old tape off - clean with something like nail varnish remover then put the new tape on and while warm spray with hair spray the areas where your print will be.
Hope some of this helps - have fun - and learn a bit of CAD ... i am yet to do this but would love to create from scratch as i use mine for loads of things .. i am told Tinkercad is good and is free!
Here are some of the updates the printer printed for itself
Auto Leveling sensor bracket, filament spool centres, hinged fan bracket to make filament change easier and a filament holder (i changed this for a different one later on) .. i also did a circular fan cooler which you can see in the second picture.
This is as i printed that lithophane i mentioned .. slow and steady at high resolution. You can see the auto levelling sensor and fan ring here too.
And the lithophane completed ... looks like a load of blobs on a curved piece of plastic! It is taken from a photo of my parents before they were married at the six day trials ... i did the lithophane as a present for their diamond wedding anniversary.
And then you illuminate the lump of plastic from behind and wow!!
Edited By Mark Stringer on 18/04/2018 13:54:15
Martin - glad you liked that mod... i was going to re-reccomend it tonight but you beat me to it
My first batch of prints were all upgrades which i still find amusing
As i have used it more i have realised that belt tension and alignment are important so i have done an x-axis belt retainer (needed a new belt to be long enough for this) and y axis adjustable tensioner (both from Thingyverse).
I also found that, despite using the auto levelling sensor, my first layer was sometimes stringy ... but just the first layer.
I happened to notice that my one z axis looked a little higher than the other and have found that with time and use one side gets higher than the other - probably due to not being perfectly square or maybe my table isn't level - so i manually set them to be the same whilst unplugged (slowly so that you don't create a current into the main board) and then it prints great.
If you haven't done a lithophane yet you really must! A very slow print and takes hours but wow!
Select your favorite picture and go here: http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ to create the stl file.
I followed a YT tutorial to give me tips how to do it ... just amazing results (I used white PLA which worked really well)
Have fun with the A8 Pete! .... now i must finish setting up that laser
I have had a couple that have done that but i assumed it was due to my printer being in the conservatory and the heat in there affecting it.
I spent my first few days of printing doing extras for it - one of which was the filament loader modification ....although this has flexed a little it still does the job nicely and i have had no issues with it : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2037833
I also added the self leveling sensor and so use the Skynet firmware, did a filament guide and spool centre pieces to make it roll nicely during its feed..... it working quite nicely at the moment
....and Santa is bringing be a 2500mW A3 laser for Christmas plus Z-Axis adapter and CNC motor ... more to play with
If you do this search https://hobbyking.com/en_us/3d-printing-diy/filament/pla.html?wrh=1%2C7 then scroll down the list there are a few in stock - many of which are in the UK warehouse if that is OK for you?
Many are 500g but there are a few 1kg rolls there too.
These were free shipping for black Friday but that looks to have finished ,..UK postage is usually pretty good for pretty large deliveries though.... just popped 4 x 1kg rolls in my basket and it came to £4.84 by parcel force 48 ... says it is that price up to 30kg so about 25 rolls i would have thought...
Edited By Mark Stringer on 04/12/2017 10:21:10
I have had all of my filament from Hobby King EU warehouse from their deals / bargain bin offers.
I have only used PLA so far (and mainly the ESUN brand) as i have my printer in the house and ABS would need venting properly.
The CoLiDo ones in cartridges are OK too as they just pop out of the cartridge to use as normal.
They have a lot of Black Friday deals on today and free postage so it will be hard to beat i would have thought!:
Looks like it is selling out quickly though: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/3d-printing-diy/filament/pla.html?p=1&wrh=7%2C1
|I have got an A8 and it has been fine but they are prone to melt the hotbed plug ... It may be that|
|Thread: What's flying over your house|
Not over my house but over my Caravan while staying at Cirencester Park .. this was Sunday afternoon (28th) and i have never seen anything like it.
Looked to be a good thermal which i think was from the lake ... first there were four powered parachutes circling tightly ... they moved off North to another nearby thermal and i heard the familiar whistle of a full size glider ... as i watched others joined the thermal from the South ... some then moved off overhead going West.
This went on for at least an hour with a peak number in the cloud at any one time of 11 or 12 ... my nerves were on edge wondering how they were missing each other and waiting for a crunch!
They were really quite fast and holding it tight in the thermal .. i have added quite a few pics to an album on here of this and have a video too although focusing on white gliders in a clear blue sky was hard work.
|Thread: fitting a new ESC in a Quanum Nova|
|Sounds like you are OK...the nova compass is actually an internal apm one ... although physically external it is soldered to the controller where an internal one would normally be .. another nova quirk.|
Each calibration only takes a couple of minutes. ...everything done in 10 to 15 minutes start to finish
To be on the safe side pop the top off the puck and make sure the compass is secure and square to the quad.
Make sure you do it all away from magnetic things like speakers and metal items. ..outside, just you and a laptop is good
Dont over worry about the dots just turn as much as you can and get as many dots as possible.
Once done make sure you check it against known directions in case it is reversed
|Thread: Caption time again!|
5 Caps, 1 Trilby, 2 with Transmitters thinking they were flying it ....it was always going to end in tears
|Thread: fitting a new ESC in a Quanum Nova|
Sorry ... not sure what happened with the link... i know it is not in English but the video shows everything correctly .. just play it with no sound. ..
I have looked at a few but this video seems to do things correctly so hopefully will help
Covers radio, compass and accelerometer calibration
Any questions just ask ... really only takes 20 minutes or so but i can't stress enough the importance of a long usb lead and making sure it stays in place throughout.
Also use the "disconnect" button when you are finished
This is where i learnt the most ... starts with the very first version that didn't even have a USB socket
I started when it was at about 200 pages and read it all probably up to about page 500 as things developed
It is now at almost 4000 pages which i guess shows the popularity of this quad.
There are references / links in the thread to setting one up with your own radio, the Taranis / teensy stuff and things like that. ... and lots of chances to learn by others mistakes. .. but 4000 pages is way too much for me now.
Hope all goes well with the setup
As it is a new ESC i am thinking that you wanted to calibrate that to match the others.
I have never done that myself but this video shows how it is done on the cx-20 which is pretty much the same thing.
You still need to do the APM calibrations, not forgetting the radio too ...including moving both switches to calibrate the flight modes too.
If you move between fields a lot then just give it plenty of time to get its bearing before the first flight.
It is sometimes worth powering it up, leaving it for a few minutes then unplug and plug again. This seems to help it get a fix and identify where in the world it is. ... too soon and any problem would have its return to home actually try to return to your previous field / home.
An angle_max of 3500 will definitely stop it blowing away in the wind
|Thread: Marks Quanum Nova and its evolution|
There is actually quite a bit to doing each bit .. this is 2 years condensed into one page. . Lots of head scratching and a huge amount if research ... but very satisfying when things actually work .. and I do love the Taranis and use it for just about everything now including as a master for training with my sons DX6i with his Bixler2
Working in a decent arduino based head tracker for my goggles too ... never too old to learn!
|Thread: Multi Rotor A and B Test Launched|
But that link from Andy Symonds says there will be a new test with stabilisation enabled. .. just, yet again, doesn't clarify what exactly that means ... i wanted to do my A but starting to wonder if it is worth bothering to be honest
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