Here is a list of all the postings Brian Seymour has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 109 club.|
She looks grand on the ground and even better in the air, fantastic model - nice one!
|Thread: Summer is here!!....Who's been flying??|
Edited By Brian Seymour on 09/07/2019 13:55:12
|Thread: Indoor Scale R/C entry Piper Super Cub PA-18|
I finally got round to finishing off the flying only clips:- Flying Only
I didn't get much usable footage of some models as the anti-shake feature on the camera seemed to focus on the roof structure and the models came out very jerky.
I only got a few usable clips of your SE5a, she looks gorgeous in the turns and it's great the way the registration on the underside of the wing shows when she banks away.
Great to meet you and the other folk on Sunday, it was truly inspirational seeing your models, they look so good especially flying.
I'll second Danny's comments on the competition, the flying only is easily accessible with an off-the-shelf micro model. I entered the flying only with my Micro Aces Fokker D.VII, it's a bit more effort to get flying than Parkzone or E-Flite micros but it's a nice intro to depron models and flies well.
It was my first scale national, although I read the Scale Rule Book I was't entirely sure what to expect but I got plenty of helpful guidance from the organisers and fellow fliers. The judges were very good, helping settle my nerves and really getting the best out of my flying.
My Dad and I took a load of videos, we aren't too au fait with videos cameras but here is a compilation of clips from the scratch build modes:- **LINK**
I'll get the clips of the flying only models put into a compilation and posted over the next few days.
|Thread: FUTABA S_BUS help needed|
You're not the only, my poor little receiver got an hour or so of verbal until I realised!
I tried the SBUS2 port and the decoder seems to work fine in that as well, I use the FrSky decoders but I can't see why the Futaba one would be different. I'm not sure whether using the SBUS2 port for SBUS devices is good practise so I only use the SBUS2 port for telemetry devices.
Have you put the receiver into mode B (the instructions for this come with the receiver)? Mode B makes channel 8 the SBUS port and leaves channels 1-7 as normal. The R7008 receivers that I have bought were initially in Mode A which is 8 normal channels.
I can't remember whether the SBUS2 port (underneath the servo output pins) works with the decoders, I'll check later unless anyone else can confirm it in the meantime.
|Thread: Winters Here Who's Been Flying ?|
Only half a dozen of us got out flying yesterday, I got to fly my TN Typhoon and one of my flying buddies (Ian) took some snaps:
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 109 club.|
|Very sweet model Paul, fantastic job.|
|Thread: Modelflying.co.uk Christmas Advent Competition updates!|
Thank you kindly, the handset and receiver set arrived on Tuesday. It's just the ticket for a nice little project that I've got on the go.
|Thread: Balsa bashing|
Looking good Simon and great to see that she is still flying, I keep meaning to get the panel lines and weathering done on my one. It's been 2 1/2 years and she has had plenty of flights so I ought to get on with it especially as there is an article about weathering in the latest issue of the magazine.
|Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!|
She is pretty good in the wind, is was a bit breezy when I flew her, 10-12mph, and she was excellent. I also flew my VQ Models Fiat G59, which is a great windy day model, and the Macchi seemed marginally more stable. To be far, it was windy without being particularly turbulent so ideal for warbirds.
I have neglected to keep this thread updated over the past few months, mainly due to only having brief spells of working on her. She's almost ready for painting, a couple of coats of primer have been applied and sanded back. You won't fail to notice that I ran out of grey primer, I should have gone and bought another can but I had a can of cream coloured primer to hand so I used that. I'll give her a dusting over with primer so that the base colour is consistent, probably the cream colour as there is still plenty left in the can.
Before painting I'll get her put together ready to fly so that the control horns and linkages get painted at the same time.
I had my original one flying at the weekend. We didn't get the camera out until the light was fading so the pictures aren't all that great..
|Thread: Pegasus Models Hornet - HWDMAC Winter Build 2018|
Cheers men, great suggestions, good tips for the next build. My Dad rectified the T-nut that went awry using the screw to pull it in as Ken suggested.
Cheers Nigel, to be fair a few hours were put in at home between sessions but the model does go together nicely which helps keep the hours down.
Tapping the nut block rather than fitting T-nuts is a fantastic suggestion thank you, it gave me a heck of a Tefal moment! I'll definitely go for that on the next build, having fitted my ones and and assisted a few others with theirs I can't see how it could possibly take longer than messing around with T-nuts.
Cheers Richard, yes, she is a nice shape from the off, the only thing I changed whilst fixing my one was to round the front of the cowl to be marginally bigger than the spinner. That was partly due to the amount of wood that got pulverised at the front end.
For the build nights, folk tacked the wing trailing edge and ailerons to the false trailing edge so that they could be sanded to exactly match the wing profile, it's a neat idea that Guy came up with and a lot easier than the sanding than ailerons after hinging (which is what I had done). A couple of folk used masking tape on the wing veneer and the last 1/8" of the ailerons and trailing edge as a further guide for sanding and to prevent sanding too much - I'll definitely be using this technique on my next one.
With the ailerons and trailing edges still tacked on, the wing fixings were tackled. The dowel at the front was tackled first. Guy had simplified this by making some plates to go on the front of the wing from 1/16" ply, neatly cut to match the surface of the former with a hole drilled in for the dowel. The plate was tacked to the former (using the dowel to locate it), the wing accurately positioned, the wing then glued to the plate, and then the plate cut from the fuselage. The hole in the plate was used as drill jig to make the dowel hole in the wing and then the dowel was glued in place.
The wing nut blocks were glued inside the fuselage and their positions were marked on the top surface of the wing, this enabled us to get a good idea of where to put the wing bolt holes.
The wing bolt holes are drilled through dowels which are inserted into the wing. The dowels go in perpendicular to the underside of the wing so their position from the trailing edge was measured off the plan and marked on the top and bottom of the wing - due to the angle that they go in at, the top is a different distance to the bottom. Using the centre marks, the dowels were drawn onto the surfaces of the wing and discs of veneer were cut out and a hot wire melted through the foam to make the holes. This left a little bit of sanding to open the holes out to the exact size of the dowels. The dowels were dry fitted, pushing them flush to the underside and marking the excess on the top side The dowels were removed and the excess was cut off using a hacksaw as nothing else made much of an impression on them.The dowels were then glued in using epoxy.
The wing was then fitted to the fuselage and lined up by measuring the distance to the rear tip of the veneer on each wing to the middle of the back of the fuselage. Once the distance to both the left and right were equal, the wing was pinned in position. Holes were drilled through the wing dowels and the wing nut plates in the fuselage. The dowels are dead hard and most of us started with 4mm drill and then opened them out to 6mm. The wings were removed and the holes in the wing nut plates were opened out to 8mm to take the T-nuts.
The T-nuts were glued in from the back using G-clamps to force the prongs into the wood. This was a tricky stage for quite a few of us as the T-nuts didn't all go in straight and so they had to be drilled and re-tapped in situ.
As can be seen from the pictures, the drills wandered a little but, as the holes in the fuselage parts are drilled from the holes in the wings, the wings still locate perfectly.
Edited By Brian Seymour on 28/03/2018 13:55:03
The builds have been coming on, we had an extra build night yesterday and it was great to see the models nearing airworthyness.
There weren't quite as many as usual but the place still had a buzz about it and, with folk at the covering stage, we also set up a Solarfilm-ing station for folk crack on with covering.
Having: flown, crashed (after several flights), and repaired my one I can say that the Hornet is great flyer and stable enough in the gusty breeze that we have been flying in. She is a refreshing change from modern aerobatic planes with a good turn of speed and solid stability. Add to that, she is a tough model, given the speed that she went in at I was pleasantly surprised that she didn't end up as shrapnel and the repair wasn't too much like hard work.
The stats (pre-crash) for my one were:
Cheers Richard, credit to Guy really as I would have ended up something ludicrously complicated if he hadn't made a mock-up of the idea.
Geoff, building together as group is great, it tuns a usually solitary activity into a social one. Lugging the tools around is effort but when you get see how other folk are putting models together and you get to demonstrate your own techniques it is really good - a rich blend of picking up tips and showing off!
With the wings shaped the next step was to glue them together. The top surfaces are kept flat so the dihedral is no more than the tapering of the wing. I used epoxy to join the wings and laid a sheet of cling film over the building board to prevent sticking the wings to it.
Next up was the aileron servo box, I am using a pair of 9g servos for the ailerons so the pre-cut recess for the servos needed extending slightly. The box is lined with 1/8" balsa, where possible I ran the grain of the balsa across the wing join, I know it doesn't do much for the strength but it is simple enough to do.
For the aileron torque rods, I set them slightly into the false trailing. I hadn't used torque rods for a long time but I did recall that setting them into the false trailing edge made their operation smoother. The centre section trailing edge has a slot pre-machined in it to clear the torque rods so it only needed small sections cutting out to clear the torque rod bearings (for want of a better word). Annoyingly, I managed to glue one of the torque rods in pace so the trailing edge had to come off, the IPA deployed, and the trailing edge glued back on - turned out to be a simple fix.
The wing is located at the front with a dowel that is fixed in the wing and locates in the former in front of the wing. The hole in the wing was made with a power drill, it was tricky to keep the drill from wandering either side of the glue and, although the hole in the leading edge was snug, the rest of the hole was somewhat baggy. I used Gorilla glue to fix the dowel in the wing in the hope that it would expand enough to hold it tight - it seemed to do the trick.
Cheers men, there are a few alternatives to get the turtle deck on, the contact adhesive and aliphatic method sounds like an excellent method. The turtle decks are covered with obechi but no reason that UHU contact adhesive wouldn't work unless it eats foam - the contact adhesive that I had eats foam so we couldn't go down that route.
I'm with you DD, once I got the hang of sanding (and a decent set of abrasives) I began to find the shaping stage very rewarding.
I haven't got many pictures of the rest of the build so I'll see if I can get some of the other builds as my one is pretty much ready for flying strip.
With the fuselage sanded the hatch and cowl were liberated with assistance from the razor saw. Ply tabs were glued to fuselage sides and bottom to bolt the cowl to. The pictures below are of my fuselage, I have a sheet of lite-ply so I made the tabs from that but there is enough scrap poplar ply in the kit to use that for the tabs.
With the tabs glued in the cowl was re-fitted and holes drilled trough to the tabs. Screws were fitted and then removed and then thin CA was run into the holes to toughen them up a bit.
Thin CA was used on the cut edges of the of the cowl/fuselage spit to toughen them up. Once the glue had set the cowl and hatch were re-fitted and the front end was given another once over with abrasives to blend them back in line.
I must confess that splitting the front of the fuselage off to make a cowl on the electric models was Guy's idea, possibly obvious to everyone else but it hadn't crossed my mind. He made a mock-up of the font end to demonstrate it complete with the motor mounted so it was dead easy comprehend and copy.
With the fuselage well underway I switch back to the wing, gluing the halves together. I used epoxy and left them overnight.
Edited By Brian Seymour on 01/03/2018 13:51:15
Cheers Richard, I think that we have left a few for other folk...
I went back onto the wing to fit the undercarriage blocks. Slots are pre-machined into the wing which need the ends squaring off to take the blocks. The blocks were laid in position as a template and the veneer was score with a scalpel until it was cut through.
The foam beneath was cut to dept and the corners picked out.
The undercarriage blocks are doubled up in the end closest the wing root so the foam needs to be cut deeper to accommodate it. I used a scalpel to make a grid of cuts to depth, picked out the squares of foam and then finished the base with a bit of sand paper - a bit OTT but I couldn't help myself.
The blocks were glued in with epoxy.
With that curing, I switched back to the fuselage. The top deck and underside of the nose were planned back to be flush with the fuselage sides so that the split line for the cowl could be marked on and pre-cut before sanding. The cut on the top deck forms the front of the flight pack hatch and, as it hooks in at the back, needs to be at an angle - 45° seemed as good as any. The pictures below are of my brothers fuselage, annoyingly, I hadn't realised that the front needed to be at an angle so I have got a slight gap on my one.
The razor plane was deployed again to chop the radii roughly onto the corners and, whilst I was in "the zone" for razor planning, the balsa work on the wings (tips, leading edges, and false trailing edges) were planed roughly to shape which made for a nice little pile of savings:
The balsa was then finished off with sand paper so this stage was rather messy but also rather nice to see finished shapes coming through.
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