Here is a list of all the postings Brian Seymour has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Microaces Nieuport 17 Build Part 1|
Great videos thanks Cliff, and great tips.
|Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!|
You are in with a chance of getting a set of parts, use the Email Enquiry on the Contacts page of the Warbird Replicas website:- **LINK**
I have got to mention thanks to Ady Hayward who helped and coached me at the Warboys national to get me a qualifying score and his help and advise at the nationals resulted in better scores than I would have had.
Thanks also to Brian for calling my manoeuvres at the national.
Thanks for the kind comments.
Nice one on your control-line win Danny, I did intend to head over but the weekend seemed to finish as quickly as it started!
Cheers Brian, I struggled with the ground handling which hit the scores but once in the air she flatters my flying. I found flying-only for the indoor scale national a great introduction to the competitions, the models are cheap and easy enough to get flying and the other competitors are a great bunch to spend the day with.
Paul, the stuff I have picked up from your Spitfire, Bf109, and Bf110 builds has been grand, your finishing quality is truly something to aspire to - cheers.
I managed to qualify for the nationals with the Macchi, the original one as I haven't got round to finishing the latest one. Bob Fletcher kindly took and passed on some rather good photos of her:
I hadn't been to the nationals before, I enjoyed the scale flying competitions leading up to the nationals and qualifying for the nationals was a nice bonus. Flying in the nationals was an almighty buzz, the organisation is fantastic, and the whole event was simply mind blowing. Credit to the BMFA, so many events going on, so much to see, and all running like clockwork - it has to be experienced to be believed!
I have made a couple of simple changes for competitions; switched to a 3-blade prop which is a Ramosa Vario-prop 15 x 8, and I have locked the tail wheel to assist with the ground handling.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 109 club.|
She looks grand on the ground and even better in the air, fantastic model - nice one!
|Thread: Summer is here!!....Who's been flying??|
Edited By Brian Seymour on 09/07/2019 13:55:12
|Thread: Indoor Scale R/C entry Piper Super Cub PA-18|
I finally got round to finishing off the flying only clips:- Flying Only
I didn't get much usable footage of some models as the anti-shake feature on the camera seemed to focus on the roof structure and the models came out very jerky.
I only got a few usable clips of your SE5a, she looks gorgeous in the turns and it's great the way the registration on the underside of the wing shows when she banks away.
Great to meet you and the other folk on Sunday, it was truly inspirational seeing your models, they look so good especially flying.
I'll second Danny's comments on the competition, the flying only is easily accessible with an off-the-shelf micro model. I entered the flying only with my Micro Aces Fokker D.VII, it's a bit more effort to get flying than Parkzone or E-Flite micros but it's a nice intro to depron models and flies well.
It was my first scale national, although I read the Scale Rule Book I was't entirely sure what to expect but I got plenty of helpful guidance from the organisers and fellow fliers. The judges were very good, helping settle my nerves and really getting the best out of my flying.
My Dad and I took a load of videos, we aren't too au fait with videos cameras but here is a compilation of clips from the scratch build modes:- **LINK**
I'll get the clips of the flying only models put into a compilation and posted over the next few days.
|Thread: FUTABA S_BUS help needed|
You're not the only, my poor little receiver got an hour or so of verbal until I realised!
I tried the SBUS2 port and the decoder seems to work fine in that as well, I use the FrSky decoders but I can't see why the Futaba one would be different. I'm not sure whether using the SBUS2 port for SBUS devices is good practise so I only use the SBUS2 port for telemetry devices.
Have you put the receiver into mode B (the instructions for this come with the receiver)? Mode B makes channel 8 the SBUS port and leaves channels 1-7 as normal. The R7008 receivers that I have bought were initially in Mode A which is 8 normal channels.
I can't remember whether the SBUS2 port (underneath the servo output pins) works with the decoders, I'll check later unless anyone else can confirm it in the meantime.
|Thread: Winters Here Who's Been Flying ?|
Only half a dozen of us got out flying yesterday, I got to fly my TN Typhoon and one of my flying buddies (Ian) took some snaps:
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 109 club.|
|Very sweet model Paul, fantastic job.|
|Thread: Modelflying.co.uk Christmas Advent Competition updates!|
Thank you kindly, the handset and receiver set arrived on Tuesday. It's just the ticket for a nice little project that I've got on the go.
|Thread: Balsa bashing|
Looking good Simon and great to see that she is still flying, I keep meaning to get the panel lines and weathering done on my one. It's been 2 1/2 years and she has had plenty of flights so I ought to get on with it especially as there is an article about weathering in the latest issue of the magazine.
|Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!|
She is pretty good in the wind, is was a bit breezy when I flew her, 10-12mph, and she was excellent. I also flew my VQ Models Fiat G59, which is a great windy day model, and the Macchi seemed marginally more stable. To be far, it was windy without being particularly turbulent so ideal for warbirds.
I have neglected to keep this thread updated over the past few months, mainly due to only having brief spells of working on her. She's almost ready for painting, a couple of coats of primer have been applied and sanded back. You won't fail to notice that I ran out of grey primer, I should have gone and bought another can but I had a can of cream coloured primer to hand so I used that. I'll give her a dusting over with primer so that the base colour is consistent, probably the cream colour as there is still plenty left in the can.
Before painting I'll get her put together ready to fly so that the control horns and linkages get painted at the same time.
I had my original one flying at the weekend. We didn't get the camera out until the light was fading so the pictures aren't all that great..
|Thread: Pegasus Models Hornet - HWDMAC Winter Build 2018|
Cheers men, great suggestions, good tips for the next build. My Dad rectified the T-nut that went awry using the screw to pull it in as Ken suggested.
Cheers Nigel, to be fair a few hours were put in at home between sessions but the model does go together nicely which helps keep the hours down.
Tapping the nut block rather than fitting T-nuts is a fantastic suggestion thank you, it gave me a heck of a Tefal moment! I'll definitely go for that on the next build, having fitted my ones and and assisted a few others with theirs I can't see how it could possibly take longer than messing around with T-nuts.
Cheers Richard, yes, she is a nice shape from the off, the only thing I changed whilst fixing my one was to round the front of the cowl to be marginally bigger than the spinner. That was partly due to the amount of wood that got pulverised at the front end.
For the build nights, folk tacked the wing trailing edge and ailerons to the false trailing edge so that they could be sanded to exactly match the wing profile, it's a neat idea that Guy came up with and a lot easier than the sanding than ailerons after hinging (which is what I had done). A couple of folk used masking tape on the wing veneer and the last 1/8" of the ailerons and trailing edge as a further guide for sanding and to prevent sanding too much - I'll definitely be using this technique on my next one.
With the ailerons and trailing edges still tacked on, the wing fixings were tackled. The dowel at the front was tackled first. Guy had simplified this by making some plates to go on the front of the wing from 1/16" ply, neatly cut to match the surface of the former with a hole drilled in for the dowel. The plate was tacked to the former (using the dowel to locate it), the wing accurately positioned, the wing then glued to the plate, and then the plate cut from the fuselage. The hole in the plate was used as drill jig to make the dowel hole in the wing and then the dowel was glued in place.
The wing nut blocks were glued inside the fuselage and their positions were marked on the top surface of the wing, this enabled us to get a good idea of where to put the wing bolt holes.
The wing bolt holes are drilled through dowels which are inserted into the wing. The dowels go in perpendicular to the underside of the wing so their position from the trailing edge was measured off the plan and marked on the top and bottom of the wing - due to the angle that they go in at, the top is a different distance to the bottom. Using the centre marks, the dowels were drawn onto the surfaces of the wing and discs of veneer were cut out and a hot wire melted through the foam to make the holes. This left a little bit of sanding to open the holes out to the exact size of the dowels. The dowels were dry fitted, pushing them flush to the underside and marking the excess on the top side The dowels were removed and the excess was cut off using a hacksaw as nothing else made much of an impression on them.The dowels were then glued in using epoxy.
The wing was then fitted to the fuselage and lined up by measuring the distance to the rear tip of the veneer on each wing to the middle of the back of the fuselage. Once the distance to both the left and right were equal, the wing was pinned in position. Holes were drilled through the wing dowels and the wing nut plates in the fuselage. The dowels are dead hard and most of us started with 4mm drill and then opened them out to 6mm. The wings were removed and the holes in the wing nut plates were opened out to 8mm to take the T-nuts.
The T-nuts were glued in from the back using G-clamps to force the prongs into the wood. This was a tricky stage for quite a few of us as the T-nuts didn't all go in straight and so they had to be drilled and re-tapped in situ.
As can be seen from the pictures, the drills wandered a little but, as the holes in the fuselage parts are drilled from the holes in the wings, the wings still locate perfectly.
Edited By Brian Seymour on 28/03/2018 13:55:03
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!