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Member postings for Brian Seymour

Here is a list of all the postings Brian Seymour has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
03/01/2018 14:14:18

I have, at last, been able to get back to the Macchi, she shouldn't take much effort now.

The gear wells, doors and underside fairing are the current work in progress.

The doors which stick to the oleos (for want of a better description) were quite flexible so I glued a strip cut from the scrap ladder left over from the hard 1/16" balsa to stiffen them up a bit. I used them as a template for cutting the wing skin for the wheel wells.

gear doors stiffened.jpg

In hindsight, it may have been best to complete the underside fairing and get it smoothed out nicely before cutting the wheel wells but this way is working out.

With the sin cut, the oleos were fitted to the retracts and the innards of the wing and fuselage were Dremmel'd away to accommodate the oleo and wheel.

gear leg in well.jpg

gear well 1.jpg

gear well 2.jpg

With the well made deep enough to accommodate the oleo and wheel the fairing was built up with a couple of laser cut parts and some chunks of off-cuts. On the original one most of the underside fairing was filer which was OK but I'm guessing that it came out heavier than balsa and considerably weaker.

The chunks of balsa were trimmed to accommodate the gear door and sanded to blend in with the surface profile of the gear door.

gear door overlay1.jpg

 
The inner gear doors have been made from medium 1/16" sheet laminated with the top sheet grain inline with the length of the fuselage and the grain on the underside sheet going inline with the span of the wing.
gear door overlay 2.jpg
 
The fuselage skin was trimmed to the profile of the inner gear door and the gear door sanded to match the profile of fuselage skin.
 
Next job is to get the left hand side done the same and then get some filler into the gaps and final sanding.
 
 
Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 110 club.
28/08/2017 21:34:16

Fantastisch!!

Congratulations, she looks sweet as you like.

Thread: Kit builders, what would you like???
06/08/2017 12:28:13

Given modern prices kits are cheaper than the rrp on an equivalent ARFT but I think that the joy of kits is the actual building, the better: finish, flying characteristics, resilience and lower price are a nice little bonus.

Sadly I have neither a cunning nor subtle plan that will revolutionise the kit industry but I think but continually promoting kit building to my fellow club mates will eventually enable more folk to enjoy the "complete aeromodelling" experience that we do.My thinking is that sooner or later folk whose personal circumstances do not currently allow for building kits will change and that is when they will be able to expand their hobby to include building.

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
21/04/2017 19:47:11

Cheers Chris, the WR Hurricane is a cracking model, I have got the similar size and weight VQ Models Hurricane 60. The power setup on my VQ Hurricane was cobbled together from various parts that I had kicking around and come out at 1300w: Turnigy SK3 5055 430kv motor, Hobbywing HV70A ESC, 8s3300mAh flight pack spinning up a 13x8 APC-E prop.

On this Macchi I'll be using an AXI 515kv motor, Hobbywing 60A ESC, 5s4000mAh flight pack and I'll prop it to give as close to 50A as I can.

19/04/2017 00:19:06

Cheers men.

Great tip on the card Dwain, I'm in half a mind to use that method on the 2015 model as I didn't put the gun channels in on that one and it seems like a cracking method for a retro-fit.

Excellent background thanks Colin, I didn't have the faintest that we had negotiated to buy Italian planes, the mind boggles thinking about how planes would look and perform if Mussolini sided with the allies.

That's a comparison and a half Richard - I can't remember now if there was any effort involved!

Paul, I've seen how you finished your Spitfire and how you're progressing the Bf110 - I can't help thinking the reverse!

18/04/2017 14:07:24

Cheers Dwain, she's a cracking model to build.

This is the reason to strip plank, she has gone from an ugly duckling with planks all uneven and gappy to a slick, buffed and silky smooth fuselage:

filled and buffed - side.jpg

filled and buffed - side 2.jpg

filled and buffed - front side.jpg

filled and buffed - front.jpg

That said, credit to Mario Castoldi for creating such a work of art - I'm just gutted that he designed it to shoot Spitfires down.

Of course it couldn't be that nice a fairy tail could it? I accidentally launched the fuselage across the room whilst picking out a set of wings for a model that I was taking out to fly - amazingly just a dent or two which filled easily, better to be born lucky than clever!

The fairings only needed two skims of filler and sanding so it really was more time pontificating than building.

The gun channels on the cowl have had a run of filler applying to make a radius in the bottom of the channels. The radius was formed by running the handle of my modelling knife along the bottom of it whilst the filler was still wet - you can see a black mark where some of the aluminium has reacted.

Whilst the filler was going off I got to work on the retract bays in the wings, no photos unfortunately but then again it isn't all that exciting yet.

Next job is the underside fairing which will be best done with the wing in place as the wing needs a little filler to blend it in.

15/04/2017 09:24:31

Cheers Paul, not sure about the Messiah and now that I'm over 25 I don't get much chance to get naughty!

The wing fairing took more head-scratching than actually doing. The fairing on this model is a quite big so I didn't want to hewn it from solid balsa. The 2015 model was a bit of a hash which turned out nicely but used a fair bit of filler so I reckoned that I could better this time. a A nice little method was the one that Jon Harper used on his Hurricane during our club's Winter build last year, he made the fairing from foam and skinned it with a couple of layers glass cloth and it out exceptionally well resulting in a sweet profile that was simple to make, light and strong- no reason it couldn't be used on this model.

I wanted to plank the fairing roughly to shape and finish it with a skim of filler (as opposed to the dollops that I used on the 2015 model). It started so well with the first couple of planks but the 3rd didn't sit quite right. In need of inspiration I traced off the point at which the fairing blends into the fuselage skin, made a template and marked it onto the fuselage. Along the marked line I glued a 1/16" square strip cut from the off-cuts of soft balsa wing skin. After a while of contemplating what to do next, the penny dropped and I made a series of small formers with the radius of the fairing curve and glued them to the wing seat and the planking.

p1000532.jpg

Whilst sanding the fairing formers, it came to light that the trailing edge of the fairing didn't extend all the way to the where the fairing would naturally run out. To extend the fairing trailing edge, an oversize triangle was cut from from soft balsa off-cuts and glued to the top of the laser cut trailing edge. To be fair, the angle and orientation of the laser cut fairing trailing edge was spot on, it was just the shape that wasn't quite right.

p1000533.jpg

A set of 4mm wide strips were cut from the 1/16" balsa off-cuts to plank the fairing. These planks were plain rectangle in cross-section rather than the trapezoidal like the fuselage planks. The curve on the fairing is pretty severe in places so the planks were wetted before applying. I got into a nice little rhythm with the these planks: brush water onto the planks, blob a spot of CA on the formers and then apply the plank. The planks were fitted: one from the fuselage edge and then one from the wing edge until they converged at which point the planks needed cutting into fit into the varying width gap. It was all planked in a few minutes - considerably less time than I spent fussing and over-thinking it all.

p1000540.jpg

Once the planks have completely dried out I'll give then a once over with abrasive and then deploy the filler.

 

Whilst the fairing planks were drying I got a few of the apertures cut in the skins for:

The gun slots

p1000541.jpg

And the exhaust stacks

p1000542.jpg

And I couldn't resist popping the canopy and cockpit fairing on just to see how she'll look:

p1000545.jpg

 

Edited By Brian Seymour on 15/04/2017 09:31:08

Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 110 club.
13/04/2017 09:19:46

Ditto that, both builds are coming on sweetly but take a breather men, you're making my Macchi build look slow!

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
11/04/2017 13:33:41

Cheers Dwain, the planking wasn't all that bad really... although it's much easier to say now that it's done!

Thread: Balsa bashing
11/04/2017 13:06:22

Top marks to Jon for getting the Hurricane in the magazine:

20170411_080554.jpg

I thought that one of the in-flight pictures would have been chosen but she looks sweet however she is photographed.

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
10/04/2017 23:09:56

The fuselage is coming on treat with the wing seat on and the strip planking a few planks short of a full skin.

The next job was to fit the wing seats, 2 sets of 4 pieces of 1/16"thk medium balsa were butt joined to form the wing seat. The resulting cross-grain planks were laid in position on top of the wing and slots to fit the formers were cut into them and then they were trimmed to the leading and trailing edges.

p1000496.jpg

The seats were fitted in place in the fuselage.

p1000497.jpg

Polythene sheet was laid on top of the wings to prevent the wing from getting glued to the fuselage.

p1000498.jpg

The fuselage (complete with wing seats) was fitted to the wing and the laser cut front fairing top blocks were glued in place..

p1000499.jpg

Laser cut ribs (for want of a better word) were glued on top of the wing seat to set a curve to match the wing top surface into the wing seat. 20mm wide soft balsa strips were cut and wetted to make them pliable and then glued on top of the wing seats flush with the edge. In order to set the exact curve of the top surface of the wing, the strips were pinned through into the wing skin and then left to set and dry out completely (takes a while so next stop was the flying field!).

p1000500.jpg

Once completely dry, the pins were removed and the whole lot turned upside down and a bead of glue was run into the joins on the underside.

p1000501.jpg

p1000502.jpg

The laser cut lower leading edge blocks were glued in place

p1000503.jpg

With the wing seat reasonably robust, the strip planking on the top of the fuselage was finished off, the cowl fitted and the Permagrit put to good use.

planked and buffed 1.jpg

planked and buffed 2.jpg

The planking does have few gaps in places and some of the edges haven't adhered together so, once the planking and fairing are somewhere near done, the whole lot will be given a coat of Poly-C and filler worked into any gaps.

At times the strip planking felt like it was going to be my life's work when all of a sudden I was on the last few strips and 10mins with the Permagrit smoothed the uneven joins rather nicely into something almost resembling a fuselage!

Edited By Brian Seymour on 10/04/2017 23:15:41

10/04/2017 13:06:42

Thanks fellas.

Bucksboy, good points on the Yak-9 and the La7 is certainly sweet enough.

Paul, talking of learning, I'll be swotting up on your panel line and weathering tips for sure.

Latest progress on the build will follow soon, not that there has been much with the decent flying (and gardening) weather over the weekend.

06/04/2017 21:23:51

Hello GillyG1, I can't vouch for Poly-C with regard to fuel proofing as, I must confess, I haven't got any ic planes. Great tip on the banana oil and the car body shop brown paper thanks.

Nigel, yes, it's a regular finishing iron set to 125° which is what I set it for with Solartex. The paper I have used is this: **LINK** but folk use all sorts as GillyG1 and Paul have given us tips for. I don't know what the scientific explanation but it has worked well for all of us that have tried it and no two folk seem to use the same brand or weight of paper.

I'm looking forward to seeing your Macchi Vic, tissue covering seems to come out really nicely, we had an excellent modeler (Richard Ginger) flying with Jon who had cover his Tempest with tissue and dope. The finish was outstanding and for a big airframe it was dead light.

No further progress today as I was at the strip with my Warbirds Replicas Yak-9, she's a cracking flyer and I'm surprised that Richard hasn't had many enquiries for the kit.

06/04/2017 13:30:50

Hello Nigel, the questions are no problem, I'm glad that you are taking an interest.

The planking is in a mixed state, I need to get the wing seat done to progress the wing fairing which blends into the planking so I have gone up to the most convenient point in the strip planking. I couldn't resist the urge to tidy up the areas where the planks have converged so some of the planking has been sanded.

Sanding the nice compound curve smoothly requires a little experimentation with abrasives as some are harsh on the balsa and gentle on the glue. I have found my rough Permagrit block (and 80 grit aluminium oxide paper) used lightly removes the glue at the same rate as the balsa so the curve on the underside of the nose has come out very nicely.

For the brown paper, it didn't need much water adding to the PVA ~15%-20% seemed to do the trick (my first effort was ~ 50/50 but it was too thin), it needs to be the consistency of single cream.

The matt side of the paper is glued so shiny side out.

None of the parts have warped except for where I deliberately ironed the washout twist into the flaps.

The paper forms around compound curves without the need for slicing, I used a dry paint brush to tease the paper around the curves before setting it with the iron. I have overlapped the leading edge and the paper is so thin where the iron has run over it that I reckon the edge will disappear with a coat of primer.

The next stage on the covering (re: Richard's instructions as I have never done it before) is to seal it with non-shrinking dope thinned 1:1, then it is given a coat of primer and then it can be painted.

I guess that Poly-C could be used instead of thinned non-shrinking dope, (feel free to chip in if you have used Poly-C instead of dope on brown paper).

I'll be using acrylic paints finished with 50/50 mix of Poly-C and matting agent as that little recipe has worked a treat on my other models.

05/04/2017 23:14:10

That's got to tip the top of the top tips table!

The brown paper covering went so well that I allowed myself to get distracted and cover the tailplanes, fin, flaps and exhaust fairings. The flaps were an interesting little case, I used the same wedge to set the washout twist only to find that with the brown paper on there were was no spring-back - that made setting the twist even easier! I hinged the flaps, wetted them, clamped them to the wing trailing edge and ironed them in situ and set the twist perfectly.

With the wings progressed far enough I joined them. There are two dihedral braces which fit in between the spars similar to the webs, epoxy was used to glue them in position.

p1000470.jpg

p1000471.jpg

The strip planking has also been coming on, the planks are cut using the following process.

A 1/4"sq. block is used to kick the stripping tool up to cut an angle:

p1000477.jpg

In order to minimise waste, a 1/4" wide strip is used space the blade away from the edge of the sheet and cut little more then a sliver:

p1000479.jpg

p1000480.jpg

Once the sliver has been cut, the sheet is flipped over (bottom right to top left in the picture above) and the first full strip is cut:

p1000484.jpg

The sheet is flipped between cutting the strips so that the cross section of the strips is a regular trapezium.

Before fitting the wing seat a few bits for the leading and trailing edge fairings need to be fitted which requires the lower half of the nose to be strip planked and sanded. The picture shows one half sanded and the other just planked:

p1000486.jpg

The planking looks pretty rough before sanding, also noteworthy is that the planking is progressed with a plank down from the horizontal keel and then a plank up from the lower vertical keel:

p1000488.jpg

p1000490.jpg

With the planking sanded (both sides) the fairing components can be installed:

wing seat 1.jpg

31/03/2017 18:48:39

Cheers, your 110's are taking shape sweetly too, the thread is ace with excellent building tips - shame I didn't see the greaseproof paper tip before I bought the standard brown paper.

30/03/2017 19:23:35

In between jobs on the wings, the strip planking has been coming on and got to the stage where the exit for elevator push rod exits and the guide tubes for the rudder closed loop cables can be installed. The planks have come out a bit gappy in a few places so the gaps were given a lick of Poly-C and filled with lightweight filler and given a little abuse with the Permagrit to get them tidied. Slots were cut for the elevator spars and the rudder spars and the tail components dry assembled so that holes/slots could be made for the control linkages.

Elevator push rod exit:

p1000461.jpg

p1000467.jpg

 

Guide tubes for the rudder cables:

p1000464.jpg

p1000466.jpg

 

The concentration of my efforts is on the wings as they need to be joined so that the wing seat can be made in the fuselage which is necessary before the strip planking can progress much further. Believe it or not I haven't got much space for building, little more than the 18" x 48" building board so I'm reluctant to join the wings until the latest possible stage. With both wings ready for covering, I decided to go with Richards tip of brown paper. I googled for brown paper covering a model and found several series of forum posts where experts explained that it results in very heavy models - they may be experts in something but it certainly isn't in brown paper covering! A couple my club-mates took the plunge on our group build last year and their results were truly stunning with seemingly little effort and weight gain.

Despite covering with brown paper being a simple process I still made a hash of it on my first go, watering the glue down too much and applying too thin a coat, this resulted in several areas where it lacked adhesion and bubbled up. On my 2nd attempt I used two coats of the overly thinned glue and got away with it. To rescue my first effort, I asked Richard, and I'm jolly glad I did! On Richard's advise, the bubbled areas have crosses cut into them, the leaves peeled back and simply re-glued and ironed flat, it's not as neat as getting right first time but you won't know it's any different once a coat of primer has gone on.

Subsequent applications of brown paper have been a walk in the park. The 2015 model was covered using glass cloth and epoxy so I was keen to compare the weight difference. Using glass cloth, the weight gain was ~50g per wing, with the brown paper it has been 15g per wing. Prior to covering, the right wing weighed 177g, after covering the weight was 195g and after it had been left over night and dried out it weighed 192g - I don't think that I'll be going back to glass and epoxy.

It's apparent which wing was done first but I reckon that I'll be the only one who can tell once they are finished:

p1000468.jpg

p1000469.jpg

If you are at the covering stage then consider brown paper, it is very cheap, I found easier than film covering and glassing, dead easy to recover from disaster and I doubt that you'll find a lighter alternative.

Edited By Brian Seymour on 30/03/2017 19:28:39

Edited By Brian Seymour on 30/03/2017 19:31:03

Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 110 club.
27/03/2017 16:17:18

She looks belting already!

Very nice job on the Spitfire as well.

Edited By Brian Seymour on 27/03/2017 16:19:37

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
26/03/2017 20:17:11

The wings are on the final straight now, the leading edges went on with no problems which left the flaps.

The flaps need the trailing edge feathering which, due to them being made from poplar ply, requires a little elbow grease but soon gets done.

wing stage 12a flaps sanding.jpg

The flaps need a slight twist to be set into them to match the washout, I was at a loss but Richard and Vic related the following technique. The required twist is little more than 1/16", following a couple of trials, propping a corner up at 1/8" left the flap springing back to the perfect amount of twist.

So, a wedge, the length of the flap and 1/8" wide at the thick end, was cut from one of the laser cutting scrap ladders.

wing stage 12b flaps twisting a.jpg

The wedge was laid on the board, the flap was wetted and pinned to the building board over the wedge to set a 1/8" twist into it.

wing stage 12c flaps twisting b.jpg

The filming iron was set to 150°C and the flap was ironed until it had completely dried. The twist sprung back slightly to leave the flap perfectly matched to the washout - Vic & Richard, I guess that means that I owe you a drink!

Next is hinging the flap to the wing, I had a practise on some of the scrap poplar ply. It took a few goes to get the hang of cutting a hinge slot in the ply so it was just as well that I didn't dive straight into hinging the flap. A shallow flat, the width of the hinge, is filed into the edge to be hinged.

wing stage 12d flap hinge.jpg

Using a scalpel and a bucket of patience, a slot is cut into the shallow flat to accommodate the hinge, the slot then needs a narrow strip of sand-paper feeding through and slot sanded out marginally thicker than the scalpel blade. The hinge needs the all of the edges sanded off before fitting. It's a faff for sure but comes out nicely being tight enough to grip the hinge but not so tight that the plywood splits.

The hinge positions were marked off onto the hinge rail in the wing and slots made in pretty much the same way. One little lack of foresight was that one of the hinge slots crossed a plywood rib, this took a fair bit of patience but the slot was eventually cut. The hinging has come out just right.

wing stage 12e flap hinged.jpg

 

The aileron was a walk in the park having prepped the hinging before skinning and having got to grips with sanding and adjusting the shrouding on the elevators and rudder.

The apertures for the servo boxes were cut next. This was done with a bit of trepidation, the wing is at a pretty advanced stage and chopping a big hole in the wrong position would have required a call to the Samaritans. I used the template from making the skins to get a starting point and gradually opened out the apertures out, the strips that line the mounting plates in the wing made it pretty simple to get the openings the right size. The servo boxes were put in place and the soft balsa facings easily sanded to match the profile of the wing.

wing stage 12f servo boxes.jpg

The wing shown is ready for covering and the other wing isn't far behind - you never know, I might get her flown in time for the club concurs.

 

Edited By Brian Seymour on 26/03/2017 20:17:39

Edited By Brian Seymour on 26/03/2017 20:21:58

26/03/2017 15:22:10

Cheers Colin, there doesn't seem to be a better automated option to strip planking, certainly not a cost effective one.

 

The wings are coming on nicely with the lower skins glued on. The lower skins only go back as far as the flap pocket so the template was modified and the skins made in the same way as the top skins. It didn't all go quite to plan first time, this was traced to skins lifting as I was cutting so the balsa sheets were shuffled and shimmied a bit to overlap again and then they were well and truly pinned down before cutting. I remembered to sand the sheets before gluing and despite the little troubles they came out just nice.

The lower skins are fitted with the wings jigged up in the same manner as the Warbirds Spitfire. Jigs will be included in the kit but I hadn't included them when I sent off the laser cutting for the prototypes so I printed off the profiles and cut them from lite-ply (see, lite-ply does have a use in aeromodelling!) The jigs are positioned over ribs R3, R9 and R14:

wing stage 11a.jpg

 

The servo extension leads are fitted in the wing and then the wing is positioned in the jigs:

wing stage 11b.jpg

Glue is applied to the ribs, spars, flap hinge rail and false leading edge, leaving the tip, which will be glued in the next stage, dry, and the lower skin positioned on top. As with the top skin, weights are used being positioned over the location of the rear spar and jigs, and then a few more in the gaps and then over the main spar. With the skin weighed from the main spar back, the leading edge is pinned to the false leading edge.

 

With the lower skins glued, the tips can be glued. The joins in the skins at the tip were not glued, this is to allow for a little fine trimming. The tips are clamped dry progressing from the leading and trailing edges to the joins in the skin. Once clamped, the skins overlap so using the edge of the overlapping skin as a guide, the clamped skin was trimmed. With the scrap sliver removed, the skins butted up sweetly. The clamps were removed, glue applied and then re-clamped and left to set.

p1000449.jpg

Pads of gripper mat were used to prevent the clamps on the lead edge sliding off.

Edited By Brian Seymour on 26/03/2017 15:26:47

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