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Member postings for Brian Seymour

Here is a list of all the postings Brian Seymour has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
26/03/2017 20:17:11

The wings are on the final straight now, the leading edges went on with no problems which left the flaps.

The flaps need the trailing edge feathering which, due to them being made from poplar ply, requires a little elbow grease but soon gets done.

wing stage 12a flaps sanding.jpg

The flaps need a slight twist to be set into them to match the washout, I was at a loss but Richard and Vic related the following technique. The required twist is little more than 1/16", following a couple of trials, propping a corner up at 1/8" left the flap springing back to the perfect amount of twist.

So, a wedge, the length of the flap and 1/8" wide at the thick end, was cut from one of the laser cutting scrap ladders.

wing stage 12b flaps twisting a.jpg

The wedge was laid on the board, the flap was wetted and pinned to the building board over the wedge to set a 1/8" twist into it.

wing stage 12c flaps twisting b.jpg

The filming iron was set to 150°C and the flap was ironed until it had completely dried. The twist sprung back slightly to leave the flap perfectly matched to the washout - Vic & Richard, I guess that means that I owe you a drink!

Next is hinging the flap to the wing, I had a practise on some of the scrap poplar ply. It took a few goes to get the hang of cutting a hinge slot in the ply so it was just as well that I didn't dive straight into hinging the flap. A shallow flat, the width of the hinge, is filed into the edge to be hinged.

wing stage 12d flap hinge.jpg

Using a scalpel and a bucket of patience, a slot is cut into the shallow flat to accommodate the hinge, the slot then needs a narrow strip of sand-paper feeding through and slot sanded out marginally thicker than the scalpel blade. The hinge needs the all of the edges sanded off before fitting. It's a faff for sure but comes out nicely being tight enough to grip the hinge but not so tight that the plywood splits.

The hinge positions were marked off onto the hinge rail in the wing and slots made in pretty much the same way. One little lack of foresight was that one of the hinge slots crossed a plywood rib, this took a fair bit of patience but the slot was eventually cut. The hinging has come out just right.

wing stage 12e flap hinged.jpg


The aileron was a walk in the park having prepped the hinging before skinning and having got to grips with sanding and adjusting the shrouding on the elevators and rudder.

The apertures for the servo boxes were cut next. This was done with a bit of trepidation, the wing is at a pretty advanced stage and chopping a big hole in the wrong position would have required a call to the Samaritans. I used the template from making the skins to get a starting point and gradually opened out the apertures out, the strips that line the mounting plates in the wing made it pretty simple to get the openings the right size. The servo boxes were put in place and the soft balsa facings easily sanded to match the profile of the wing.

wing stage 12f servo boxes.jpg

The wing shown is ready for covering and the other wing isn't far behind - you never know, I might get her flown in time for the club concurs.


Edited By Brian Seymour on 26/03/2017 20:17:39

Edited By Brian Seymour on 26/03/2017 20:21:58

26/03/2017 15:22:10

Cheers Colin, there doesn't seem to be a better automated option to strip planking, certainly not a cost effective one.


The wings are coming on nicely with the lower skins glued on. The lower skins only go back as far as the flap pocket so the template was modified and the skins made in the same way as the top skins. It didn't all go quite to plan first time, this was traced to skins lifting as I was cutting so the balsa sheets were shuffled and shimmied a bit to overlap again and then they were well and truly pinned down before cutting. I remembered to sand the sheets before gluing and despite the little troubles they came out just nice.

The lower skins are fitted with the wings jigged up in the same manner as the Warbirds Spitfire. Jigs will be included in the kit but I hadn't included them when I sent off the laser cutting for the prototypes so I printed off the profiles and cut them from lite-ply (see, lite-ply does have a use in aeromodelling!) The jigs are positioned over ribs R3, R9 and R14:

wing stage 11a.jpg


The servo extension leads are fitted in the wing and then the wing is positioned in the jigs:

wing stage 11b.jpg

Glue is applied to the ribs, spars, flap hinge rail and false leading edge, leaving the tip, which will be glued in the next stage, dry, and the lower skin positioned on top. As with the top skin, weights are used being positioned over the location of the rear spar and jigs, and then a few more in the gaps and then over the main spar. With the skin weighed from the main spar back, the leading edge is pinned to the false leading edge.


With the lower skins glued, the tips can be glued. The joins in the skins at the tip were not glued, this is to allow for a little fine trimming. The tips are clamped dry progressing from the leading and trailing edges to the joins in the skin. Once clamped, the skins overlap so using the edge of the overlapping skin as a guide, the clamped skin was trimmed. With the scrap sliver removed, the skins butted up sweetly. The clamps were removed, glue applied and then re-clamped and left to set.


Pads of gripper mat were used to prevent the clamps on the lead edge sliding off.

Edited By Brian Seymour on 26/03/2017 15:26:47

23/03/2017 22:09:38

Cheers Nigel, the main wing sheeting overlaps the centre section:


The step allows the fairing to have 1/16" thickness rather than a delicate feathered edge.

The planking so far, it's speeding up with using CA to glue the strips to the formers.

planking progress 1.jpg

Getting a neat join where the planks converge isn't too tricky, pin the strip in position lining the edge to the point at which the planks converge and mark the point the depth of the overlap:


Cut the end of the strip from the mark to the corner on the opposite side of the strip and it should fit in place just nicely:


23/03/2017 13:57:24

The model is progressing with the wings and strip planking in tandem, the wings are taking priority but there is an hour or so between stages waiting for glue to dry.

First off, a picture of the wing with the top skin gluing, weighed and pinned down:

stage 10.jpg

Both wings have got their top skins glued on now, with the exception of one small length, the skins have glued perfectly onto the tops of the ribs and spars etc. The small length where the skin didn't take to the rib was out near the tip but it has been re-glued and clamped and is now almost as neat as the rest.

The lower skins are well on their way and will be glued on in a similar process to the Warbirds Replicas Spitfire with three jigs to support the wing whilst it is glued. The jigs ensure that the correct washout is set into the wing panels and, more importantly, that both panels come out identically - more on that soon(ish).

The strip planking is also underway with a stock of strips cut up ready. The strips are cut with the stripping tool kicked over at angle so that, rather than a square cross section to the strip, it is a regular trapezium. This has a couple of advantages: to some extent the strips inter-lock and the extra surface area on the joins help with gluing/filling.

The first strips are on, glued to the horizontal and vertical keels. I used aliphatic resin to glue them because of the large gluing area, once I'm planking on just the formers I will use aliphatic on the strip joins and CA on the formers as there isn't a lot of former area to pin to.

lower keel front 1.jpg

top keel front 1.jpg

top keel rear 1.jpg



I have used a scarf join where the planks need to be joined. On the 2015 model I butt joined the planks on the formers which worked out ok but I reckon that this will be better.



The wing seats need to be completed before I can plank much further down the fuselage sides so the wings are the priority because they need to be joined so that the seats can be made with the wings in situ.

More to follow on the planking with a few pictures clarifying how to make the strips with a regular trapezium cross section. I would have put a link to the web site that has the tutorial on strip planking that I followed but it is no longer available (that or I just can't find it!), I think that it was on "Model Flying News". This is the strip cutter that was recommended and I have been using: **LINK**

Edited By Brian Seymour on 23/03/2017 14:00:21

21/03/2017 23:13:19

Both wings have got their top skins glued on, the following procedure looks like effort but is a sequence of several pretty simple stages.

First job was to make a jigging tab for the 2nd rib from the tip, in (mis?) handling the wings I had managed to accidentally break off pretty much all of the jigging tabs on the ribs from the root of the aileron to the tip. The ribs either side of the flap pocket still had the jigging tabs intact so it only needed one more jigging tab near the tip to stabilise the whole of the wing.

A template was made to get an idea of the overall size of the top skin, the wing was laid down on the board:

stage 9a.jpg

The wing plan was traced to make a template, the trailing edge of the template was cut to size and laid over the wing locating it against the guide faces on the jigging tabs on the ribs either side of the flap pocket. The template was held in place with weights so that it could be trimmed to the profile of the top surface, I left ~3mm extra on the leading edge and tip so that there was a little leeway for misalignment.

stage 9b.jpg

The wing was put to one side and the template laid flat on the board. The top skin starts from rib R4 so the leading edge sheet was pinned down with the root side just inside the position of rib R4 and the joining edge over the main spar. The trailing edge sheet was pinned down aligning the trailing edge and then the root edge was trimmed to be just inside rib R4.

stage 9c.jpg

The centre sheet was butted up to the leading edge sheet and slid under the trailing edge sheet.

stage 9d.jpg

Using a steel rule as a guide, a cut was made through the trailing edge sheet and the centre sheet, taking little more than a sliver off of the trailing edge sheet. This created a perfectly mating join.

stage 9e.jpg

The off-cuts were removed and the joins taped over with masking tape.

stage 9f.jpg

stage 9g1.jpg


The taped skin was flipped over, at this stage the join lines should have been sanded so that the thickness matched, foolishly, I did it the hard way and sanded the join lines after gluing - it has worked out OK but was harder work than it needed to be.

The joins were folded back, glue run along the mating faces and then weighed down flat and left to set.

stage 9h.jpg


Once set, the skins were glued to wing by: laying the wing on the board, applying glue to the contact surfaces on the tops of the ribs and spars etc., locating the top skin on the guide faces on the jigging tabs on the ribs either side of the flap pocket and then weighing and pinning the skin down. The tips have been left unglued, they will be glued after the lower skins have been glued on so that both top and bottom tip skins can be clamped together.

Edited By Brian Seymour on 21/03/2017 23:20:22

20/03/2017 08:05:25

Thank you all for your kind words and support.

I'm also following the Bf110 thread as I want to join the party and build one once the Macchi is finished, it's a cracking thread (and kit and subject) and gives a great sense of camaraderie.

With the fine building weather, I managed to get a fair bit more done yesterday afternoon/evening but I'll do a detailed update once I have uploaded photos.

19/03/2017 11:06:42

With the main structure complete and the skins not on yet it is the ideal time to plan the radio install. The wings are pretty much a given with servo boxes build in but there is a bit of planning required for the receiver, receiver pack and ESC location.

The model has been designed to accept standard size servos but adaptor plates are supplied for using 9g size servos. I am using 9g size Savox servos (actually weigh 15g) so the servo bolt holes were drilled into the adaptor plates, the screws fitted and then removed and thin CA run into the holes to toughen them up a bit before gluing in place.

I used the same location for the receiver pack as on the first model which is pretty much directly over the CG, the flight pack has plenty enough leeway for adjusting the CG. To keep the receiver pack located, a retaining crate (for want of a better description) was built up, the pack is held in place with Velcro but the crate stops it coming loose. There is a nice little gap on the opposite side of the fuselage to the elevator servo which is ideal for the receiver but to keep it out of the way an extension to the fuselage inner-side was glued on.


The model was assembled without the sheeting/planking to show its construction.





On with the sheeting and planking!

Edited By Brian Seymour on 19/03/2017 11:13:19

13/03/2017 14:12:58

With the flying weather at the weekend I got significantly less done on the build than I had hoped!

The fuselage is up to a nice stage with all of the stringers and trusses glued in, the cowl has had a few components added to duct the air from the air filter to the motor as well as the plastic braces for bolting the air filter on. The next stage is to fit the radio and control gubbins as it is much easier to see what is going on without the strip planking in place.

Before fitting the control linkages etc. I built the fin and rudder and got them hinged. The rudder is pretty much the same as the elevator: a core plate with root and tip cross grain doublers, ribs slotted in from the front and a hinge post glued on to the front.


The fin is moderately tricky but doable with one set of hands and a set of clamps. The ribs are slotted into core plates, a leading edge core plate locates the ribs, a hinge post is added either side and then spar plates (for want of a better description) locate on the ribs bringing all of the components into perfect alignment!

Fin components laid out:



Ribs glued into the core plates:



Leading edge core glued on:



The hinge posts glued on front and back:



The spar plates glued on either side:



With that little lot setting the skins were joined:



Once the glue set on the core, it was given a once over with the Permagrit:


By that time, the skins were ready to be glued on, they were glued on both a the same time which was pretty simple if a little messy where I picked a glued zone to hold the core:


The skins were lined up and clamped to the leading edge at the root and then shuffled and clamped to align the trailing edge at the tip. Clamps were then added working along the leading edge from root to tip, then along the spar and finally along the trailing edge. The trailing edge skins overlap so that they can be used as the shrouding for the hinge.


The hinging was piece of cake having got to grips with the technique learnt from hinging the elevators. The shrouding has ended up being little over 2mm to accommodate the bigger swing required on the rudder but it still does its job of concealing the hinge line.

The fin and rudder still need final sanding but it's time to break out the radio and get it setup before strip planking.

Edited By Brian Seymour on 13/03/2017 14:14:00

10/03/2017 15:00:25

The retracting tail wheel is going to be ace, I reckon, on the basis that the 2015 model balanced with a 5s4000 pack, the 6s4000 should be enough to offset any additional tail weight.

My one has progressed well so I'm likely to get her finished before you but I expect that your finished model will leave my one for dead in terms of finish.

09/03/2017 22:05:25

Sounds like a plan, I'll have to pop a rev'ier motor in, she only spins up at 6k with the low kv motor that I have been using, otherwise it'll be a case of chalk and cheese - the cheese will probably go reasonably well with the apples but I'll skip the chalk.

There hasn't been a vast amount done in recent days, the cowl was a nice little job. I built it in the fuselage using a sheet of polythene t ensure that it didn't stick to the fuselage. The base plates where clamped to the horizontal keels, the front and rear formers were glued to the base plates and clamped to their adjacent formers and then the other formers were glued in place topped of with the keel.


Once that lot set the gun channels were glued in .






With the gun channels glued and sanded the stringers were glued on.




Edited By Brian Seymour on 09/03/2017 22:06:43

Thread: Balsa bashing
09/03/2017 21:29:43

Top Notch Simon, cracking little flyer.

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
07/03/2017 19:09:30

Thanks Denis, a 4-stroke setup will almost certainly save a few ozs over the electric setup that I use. I'm looking forward to seeing how folk get on with a 4-stroke setup, from the performance figures that Jon has told me, a 70 4-stroke will give a bit more power than my intended electric setup.

06/03/2017 23:16:17

For the folk looking to use IC to power the model, Jon and I had a look at adapting the kit for an engine, in particular the Laser 70 which will be pretty much ideal for powering this model. The photos show the engine in place and there is enough space for an engine and a tank. If there is enough demand then I'll look at adapting the model although most modelers will be able to make the necessary adaptations to suit their engines

We talk around fitting a bulkhead between the inner sides for the engine mount and sealing the front end at the former just behind the cowl.






Thread: Kit builders, what would you like???
06/03/2017 09:59:34

I doubt that it would be particularly popular but I reckon that the Cant 1007 Bis is the cutest tri-rotor that I've seen. The highlights being: twin tail, dihedral tailplane, a simply ludicrous curved hinge line on the rudders and a sweet set of blending curves down the fuselage to the tail. Check out this static model:- **LINK**

That said I'll happily go for an SM79-1 if it is released.

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
05/03/2017 22:12:20

With the fuselage pined down dead flap the stringers were chopped to length, joined where necessary and glued on. The keels give the fuselage plenty of rigidity for bending up/down and left/right but even with the stringers on there isn't a great deal of torsional rigidity. The strip planking will give the fuselage a great deal of torsional rigidity but the application of the strip planking could cause it to twist so a set of trusses were cut and glued in-between the formers from the cockpit area to the tail. The trusses are cut from the 1/8"sq. balsa strip and they stiffen the structure right up.

fuselage 3.jpg


That was just about as much as can be done with the fuselage pinned down so it was released from the board and left-hand-side components assembled. The inner-sides of the fuselage clamp several components, such as the servo trays, between them but these components are not rigid enough to hold the fuselage inner-sides in place so the left-hand inner-side was propped up and the formers glued to it.


Once the glue had dried the motor mount doubler was laminated to the front end, the components that sit between the inner-sides were glued into main assembly and the sub assembly glued on and clamped.




After that, the rest of the formers were glued on along with the horizontal keel.

fuselage ribs and keel.jpg

Whilst the glue was going off the nose ring was laminated and once set it was glued on.



Once the glue on that lot had cured the stringers and trusses glued on. It all seemed a bit too easy but I haven't got onto the strip planking and cladding the fairing yet!

Edited By Brian Seymour on 05/03/2017 22:15:04

04/03/2017 10:15:50

Cheers Ady, getting the design prepared for hinges is a great assistant. The balsa shrouding is pretty easy to sand to shape and is well protected by the control surface itself.

The other wing is up to the pre-sheeting stage, only one more little job not previously mentioned and it involves a nice little bit of carpentry. The front retract bearer takes a lot of abuse on landing so has been made from 1/2" square beech, these need a slot and notch cutting in to locate in the ribs and a chamfer cutting on to clear the undercarriage leg. The cutting lines were copied onto the wood and a junior hacksaw soon took care of the cutting.


I want to get a few pictures of the plane assembled without the sheeting and planking so I have moved onto the fuselage. With its interlocking components the assembly procedure needs a bit of thinking about.

First thing to do was laminate the wing-bolt-nut-plates and fit the captive nuts into them, a bit of care is needed to make opposite hand sets so I made the left and right hands at the same time.


With that little bit of prep taken care of the fuselage proper can commence. The vertical heel components were laid out on the building board and the formers and horizontal keel dry fitted. The vertical keel was pinned securely in place and formers were glued in place and the horizontal keel dry fitted to ensure the alignment. The two formers at the tail have got the tailplane mounting slotted between them and the formers either side of the wing have got a support for the wing-bolt-nut-plates slotted between them, so these assembled and fitted first.

fuselage 1.jpg

The wing bolt plates were glued to the fuselage inner side before assembling to the formers. Once the glue on the formers had grabbed, the inner sides of the fuselage and the horizontal keel were glued and clamped in place.

fuselage 2a.jpg

fuselage 2b.jpg

Once the glue on that lot had grabbed the ply motor mount plates glued and clamped on along with the front former.

fuselage 2c.jpg

That was a nice little set of jobs, it didn't take all that long and suddenly half a fuselage appeared!

Thread: Balsa bashing
02/03/2017 16:46:46

Mate!!!! That's belting!

I must confess, I thought that you were mental going over a perfectly nice finish but it's a stroke of genius - nice job.

Just in case folk can't get to your Dropbox, here's my pick of the pics.



Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
28/02/2017 23:42:25

Cheers Ady, having got the hang of the shrouded hinges on the Yak 9 I couldn't resist designing them in on this one, I saw the ones you did on the Ju88, very nice.

On the subject of hinges I got the elevator hinged. The tailplane skins have been cut to over-hang the hinge line and act as the shrouding. To prepare rear of the tailplane a drill wrapped with a piece of coarse sand paper was used to shape the hinge recess. There are slots in the tailplane core which line up with the hinge slots in the elevator, the slots in the core need to be opened to 3mm to accept the hinges. These were opened up using progressively larger drills, 2mm, 2.5mm and 3mm, this allowed the centres to be reset on occasions when the drill wandered.

On the elevator, the hinges were trimmed to the depth of the pre-cut slots so that once the hinge is pushed in as far as it can go the pivot point is the correct place. The hinge holes in the front face of the hinge post were elongated to allow for hinge to deflect.



The shrouding was tickled out just right using a sheet of sand paper wedged in the hinge line, this takes the high spots down whilst leaving the low spots.



With the hinges just nice, the elevator was pinned to the tailplane to keep it straight and the tips were sanded to match.


The elevator and tailplane are now ready for covering and fitting so I'll save that little job for when I'm waiting for adhesive to cure on other parts.

The right-hand wing is coming on at a pace, I haven't posted any pictures of it as it isn't too far different to left wing.

Edited By Brian Seymour on 28/02/2017 23:44:31

Thread: Balsa bashing
27/02/2017 12:41:15

I'll second that, top notch and even more impressive that it's your first kit build - all the best for the maiden.

Thread: The Warbirds Replicas Macchi C.202 is Landing!
26/02/2017 11:21:22

The aileron was a pretty reasonable fit in the wing, a little was sanded off the aileron root rib, annoyingly I didn't have the sanding block square and sanded more off at the trailing edge - had to confess as it's plain as day in the picture. A little was sanded off the ribs either side of the balance tab. The aileron hinge rail facing needed a bit more sanding but by dry fitting at this stage the high spot are easy to see.

The pre-cut hinge holes lined up perfectly along the length of the wing. The hinge hole next to the root rib needed raising slightly to get the aileron aligned vertically. A small section that included the hinge hole was cut out and glued back in raised slightly and that perfected the alignment.



I'll get the other wing built up to this stage so that I can make sure the tips are sanded to match each other before sheeting.

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