Here is a list of all the postings Roy Hill 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: De Havilland Airco DH2 scratch build|
Hi Martin. No doubt about it. I believe that the aircraft could still maintain its scale integrity with 'dummy' control wires, and slimline servos in the wings. I am going to take the plunge and get it in the air this Spring. I'll keep you informed! All the best, Roy.
Hi again, Martin. Being more of an engineer and less of an expert with computers, I chose to photograph the ailerons wires, etc instead of making drawing and trying to get it onto this forum. This picture shows how I've used the cockpit cover to house the pilot figure and machine-gun. The pilot, Capt. Banks VC, is velcroed to the 10s LiPo.
With the LiPo removed, the positioning of the aileron and rudder servos is shown. Please excuse the size 8 slipper! The great big red thing on the side of the fuselage is an isolator. The receiver is on the right wall, (as you look at it) and the elevator servo is at the front. The rudder servo is just out of sight behind the bulkhead. The rudder wires come through the fuselage walls, via pulleys to the tail.
The aileron servo has the largest arms available, which pull straight through the bulkhead, via some fuel tubing, in a 90 degree arc, and out onto the leading edge of the lower wing. To keep things as authentic as possible, I've fed the wire through some small brass loops along the l/e. These might just be visible in other pictures. On the above picture, you can see how I have routed the rudder and elevator wires through very small pulleys mounted on the struts. These and the brass loops are available from a local model boat shop! A better example of the l/e loops. All the brackets supporting the flying wires are home-made.
Under the outer strut, I constructed a bell-crank to transfer 'pull' to the aileron, where adjustments can be made at the clevis attached to the horn. Power is then transmitted via the carbon push-rod to the upper wing.
Another horn on the top of the upper wing has a clevis connecting the wire, which disappears into the upper wing via more fuel tube. What can't be seen, on the picture above, is another pulley mounted in a substantial bracket inside the wing, which alters the direction of travel along the wing. All the wing ribs on the upper wing have holes cut in order to allow free movement with the minimum of resistance. The whole rigmarole is repeated, in mirror image on the other side of the aircraft, bringing the wire back to the servo.
Having gone through this, I found that with such a long run for the aileron wire, a lot of play is evident. I am toying with the idea of leaving all the aileron wires is situ but disconnected, and installing slimline servos in the lower wing operated with a Y-cable. Although I love this aircraft, particularly as it is 'scratch-built' it could become rather burdensome in transportation by being almost impossible to rig and de-rig at the flying field! I hope that this has been of some help. If you require any more info, please don't hesitate to ask. Happy landings, Roy.
Hi Martin. Sorry about the delay in replying. I will try to get a drawing to you a.s.a.p. Roy
Great stuff, Martin. If you have a look in my album, you will see that I made an electric scratch-built Dh2 a couple of years ago. It was a great experience. It took me about 600 hours and I'm a bit too apprehensive to commit her to flight! She still hangs in my workshop, as a Hanger Queen, until I have the 'bottle' to take it to the field. I shall watch your project with interest. Happy landings, Roy!
|Thread: Autogyro project|
Hello David. Thanks for that info. I will give it greater scrutiny later! Roy
Thanks for that, Piers. I toyed with the idea of using a separate motor to spin up the rotor head but it would need some way to disengage otherwise the rotor would eventually be driving the motor. This would facilitate a linear servo! The thought of using the clutch crossed my mind however I think that this would involve bearing internal sizes matching splines and so on. Thanks for the input anyway. Hi Ken. Agreed! Regards, Roy
Hi Chaps. Work on the autogyro continues, albeit at a rather slower pace than I would enjoy! I have constructed a prototype teetering head, which works reasonably well however have come to a stand-still. Where can I obtain a linear servo to engage the pre-rotator? I've searched the internet and all those advertised are no longer available and they are from USA, anyway. I've seen some 'conversation kits' which are also sold out!
Does any-one know where I can get one? Happy landings,Roy.
|Thread: Dave Burton (BEB)|
I never had the honour of meeting him but I read his contributions with great interest. May he rest in peace. Sincere condolences to the family.
|Thread: Autogyro project|
David. I'm so sorry. It must appear quite insensitive of me. Perhaps I should have asked for Richard Harris to help me. Regards, Roy.
Hello all. Other commitments have hindered progress recently, however I am now back on the case.I am designing and constructing the 'teetering' head and rotor blades but I need someone, Tom Wright perhaps, to confirm my blades size calculations. The expected AUW of the aircraft is about 7 Lbs (112 oz) and each blade should be 36 inches long and about 2 inches wide. Using Tom's formula, from a previous post, it should give me a loading of 3.96.This is at the top end of suggested measurements. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions before I get the tools going? Roy
Sorry about the delay since the last posting. Birthday, Regimental events, family matters and a computer which refused to accept photographs have caused a bit of grief. However, some progress has been made. This was all I had to begin with! I toyed with the idea of enlarging the the page from the Pilot's Handbook but, of course, as the image enlarged so did the lines. Out with the Vernier gauge and the calculator, then copy onto the drawing board. 3-Ply and Liteply was sourced and cutting began. A bit of 'fettling' and all looked well. I stumbled upon an oleo from a redundant (crashed) Chipmunk, which will serve as a steerable nose-wheel for the MTO Sport. There will be considerably more sanding and fettling to be done at a later stage.
A break from carpentry followed with a return to metal-work in the shape of the undercart and tail-boom. Bending the ali into the correct angles was no problem using the tried and tested method of soap and heat. The tail-boom was a different story! The last time I welded ali was in 1964 so I elected to use 'fish-plates' and rivets. Certainly easier but not quite as scale as I would have preferred. Considerably less bad language, though.
Who could resist a trial assembly to check that things were going according to plan. I have used nylon bolts and blind nuts on the undercart and tail-boom assemblies to reduce the possible damage on landings. It appears to be a bit 'nose-down at the moment. It's not as severe as the picture suggests but some realignment will be required.
I'm reasonably pleased with it, at present. I'm now engrossed in drawing the tail feathers which will be increased by some 10%. The mast(s) will follow, one will be scale to include a forward tilt and the other will be straight. I still need some advice on how to calculate the size, (length and chord) for the rotor blades. If it were to be absolute scale the rotor disc would be 2.2 meters diameter. I will be constructing the blades myself, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. That's about it for now, folks. Happy landings, Roy
Great replies, Chaps. Firstly David. I was aware of AUTO GYRO UK. I wrote to them asking for some drawings or dimensions. They put me in contact with the manufacturers in Hildesheim in Germany who in turn put me on to the chap in Southern Germany, who is licenced to build scale models. He invited me to buy an air-frame kit at 1500 Euros plus delivery! Since then, I have got to know the owner of a full-size MTO Sport at the local airfield who has given me 'carte blanc' to photograph and measure at will. Great guy. Thank you for the info on side-thrust etc. JD8 - I will post some progress photographs very soon. Richard - Thank you for your input. Your note on the forward sweeping mast is very interesting. In order to reproduce as much scale as possible, I will construct one straight one and one as per original. I suspected that the HK head would be discontinued, so I will manufacture one. Once again, pictures to follow and thank you all. Roy
Following my last post, progress has been made. At present, the only plans I have to refer to are from the Pilot's Handbook, scaled up! Photos will be on subsequent posts. I have elected to dispense with the strimmer motor and gone electric. Once I have established the AUW, I will be able to calculate the size of motor required. I have made a base for the cockpit from ply and fuselage formers from liteply. The trike undercarriage is constructed and fitted. I am now looking at building the rotor mast, which has thrown up some questions! Should the mast be 'off-set' as in the full size? How do I calculate the size, (cord and length), of the rotor blades. Having studied the posts by the learned Tom Wright, does anyone know if the rotor heads which he uses are still available or do I have to fabricate one myself? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated. Happy landings, Roy
I have set myself a project to see me through the Autumn and Winter and into the Spring of 2019. Having seen a video of the German Autogyro MTOsport, I was smitten and I have to build a 1:5 scale model. I have assembled a list of requirements and was given, what I think, maybe a suitable motor. This is where the bottomless chasm of knowledge and advice available from the RCME readership comes into play! The motor is a 30cc Big Bear, from a redundant strimmer. My questions are:- How should I produce an 'interface' between the existing output onto which I can secure the propeller? What size of propeller would be appropriate to keep the model reasonably scale? Should I leave the existing 'pull start'? As the rotor disc will be about 2 meters across, what material should I use to construct the blades? I have perused all the existing videos and threads available but would welcome any further information. Happy landings, Roy
|Thread: OS Max 46 FX-H Carbs|
Thanks chaps. I've had a good look at the holes and it is clear to me that the screws have been over-tightened. I shall try enlarging to 3.5mm or 4.00mm.
Thanks for that, Steve. Re-tapping was going to be my next course of action.
Help! I've recently acquired an OS 46FX-H. I dismantled it for inspection and to clear some residue and replace bearings and seals. Imagine my utter horror when removing the carb to find that the previous owner had stripped the threads for the fixing screws and 'glued' it in place. Question 1, It is listed as a 40C carb but will any other carb fit?It's going into a heli! Question 2 If not, does any-one know where I can get a replacement carb body. I've tried everything on the internet to no avail. Please help me before I pull all my hair out!
|Thread: Un-seizing a brand new engine|
Success! After soaking the offending items in Acetone overnight, I dried them and applied a little heat. Just a small amount of pressure and dismantling was complete. Cleaning the gunge from the parts was the next task and this was accomplished with the help of Cillit Bang! I find the advertisement difficult to watch but the product is great. All I need is some new grommets and gaskets and the motor will run again. Thanks to fellow forumites for the advice. Happy landings and a very Happy Christmas. Roy
Thanks Mike. I didn't serve on Sherman or Cruisers but I know my way round a Cent. They were, indeed less trouble than this OS. I've taken the advice given by Onetenor and soaked it in Acetone. (My wife will wonder what happened to it, when she comes to doing her nails!). It is now free and dismantled. Clean-up and reassemble soon ready to test run next week. See you soon, Mike.
Help! I've recently acquired an OS Max FX 46. It appears to be brand new and un-run. It has been 'stored' in a garage for some time and is seized solid. I've managed to remove the back plate and carb, which is also seized, but I can't move the carb barrel or the crank-shaft. I've tried heat, WD40, and dismantling oil, without success. Has any-one got any ideas, please?
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