Here is a list of all the postings Norrland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dremel Workstation|
I have had one for a few years and use quite a lot. Not too bad. Comes in very useful for drilling with small diameter drills that very easily break when drilling without a support. The big benefit is that you get a hole that is at the correct angle to the surface, eg 90 degrees. It can be used for simple routing in soft wood like balsa or sanding/polishing. Just don't expect that you are buying a precision tool. Don't get that for just over 30 pounds. Quite a lot of play so take care. As always, use a punch to guide the drill when drilling metal. The Dremel drill is easy to fit and I have had no issues with it coming loose.
|Thread: Songs to describe BREXIT|
Eve of Destruction - Barry McGuire
|Thread: Conversion 'rubber' to 'brushless RC'?|
I really like the idea of converting small rubber powered models to RC. With todays miniature components it's rather easy. Last year I converted a 750 mm span Dumas Aeronca C3 to RC with a small (5 Grams) brushless motor. Really nice to fly even if it can't handle much of wind. More pictures and data in my album. / Per
Edited By Norrland on 24/05/2016 08:37:37
|Thread: Problems problems.....|
Strange.It shows on my computer. Here we go again.
I don't know why but this discussion reminds me about this old cartoon. / Per
Oops. The link has been fixed. Sorry
|Thread: WOT4 XL Tailplane|
What I have done in similar cases is to insert the tail plane into the slot and position it correctly. Put masking tape on the tail plane a few millimeters outside the joints. Apply some thin epoxy to the four joints and work the epoxy into the joints by moving it slightly sideways. Add more epoxy if needed. Check the tail plane for correct alignment. Wipe off the excess epoxy, remove the masking tape and, if needed, clean up with some methylated spirit. Worked for me this far.
I assume you have removed the covering on the tail plane where it should be joined with the fuselage.
Edited By Norrland on 18/05/2016 21:37:30
|Thread: Problems problems.....|
I don't know why but this discussion reminds me about this old cartoon.
Very annoying when something that should work out of the box refuses to cooperate.
Lots of good advice already. When the first obvious ones didn’t do the trick, have you tried swapping around equipment as suggested by Simon, seems to be an obvious way to go. As I understand it you have in front of you two models of the same type (equally equipped) and both controlled by Multiplex 2.4 GHz. You have also said that it looks a bit difficult to get to get to the ESC. Have you tried the following+
1. Bind the new model to your TX. If same result probably not the fault of the Tx settings. You can also bind your model to the new Tx. If it works, supports the Tx OK.
2. Exchange the Rx’s between the models. If the new Rx works in your model, not the fault of the Rx. If the new model still doesn’t work with your Rx, supports that the Rx is OK.
3. If the new Tx and Rx seems to be OK, what remains is the ESC or motor. Is the motor connected to the ESC with bullet connectors? If that is the case, you could swap the motors between the models even if it is difficult to get the ESC out. If your motor fails to work in the new model and the new motor works in you model it looks like a faulty (or incorrectly programmed ESC).
If you can’t get it to work return it to where it was bought as proposed by PatMc. The supplier should replace it - not working on delivery.
PS If you are member of a club, why don’t you ask your local electric fly expert to have look. That is the best part of a club, you can ask for help.
|Thread: Prop running on no throttle|
Have you set the ESC to "brake on". If not, that will cause the propeller to continue spinning as long as the plane is flying. How to do that depends on the ESC. You need to check the instructions for the ESC you are using.
The above reply was posted while I was typing. Makes my reply redundant.
Edited By Norrland on 05/05/2016 21:45:54
|Thread: Dx9 headache|
Agree with Pete. Once you get used to the pre-defined settings through specifying the wing, rudder and elevator servo configuration it simplifies setting up a new model quite a bit. The manual of the DX9 is rather brief and requires a bit of trail and error. The Flap System option is, however, explained on p33.
The reason that you can only assign channels 5 (4 a typo?) and 8 is that the rest of the channels have been assigned by the serve setup you have selected. To assign a switch to flaps you will have to go to the option Flap System in the Function List. This function is inhibited to start with and you need to select a switch. The movement of the flaps can then be set corresponding to a 2 or 3 position switch. To use the full movement of the servo, flaps not deployed (position 0) would have to be set to +100% or -100% depending on the moment of the servo. Hope this can help.
Edited By Norrland on 29/04/2016 15:49:27
Edited By Norrland on 29/04/2016 15:52:45
|Thread: Motor mount|
I assume that you have t-nuts installed in the firewall for the IC motor mount. Can't you just use these to attach an extension for the new motor mount. That can be made in the form of a sturdy plywoodbox (interlocking joints) attached with long screws to the old t-nuts. You can then install t-nuts in the front panel of the box that fits the new electric motor. Short extensions or washers can be installed to provide the required clearance between the retaing screws and the back of the electric motor. Just using glue might be tricky in an old IC model with the risk of oil having soaked into the firewall.
The above solution was provided while I was typing. A good simple one if you can access the back of the firewall. I thought you didn't have that.
Edited By Norrland on 25/04/2016 12:44:31
Edited By Norrland on 25/04/2016 12:46:57
|Thread: Computer help saving onto another drive help please|
I'm not sure I understand your problem. Do you download your pictures from within a program (application)? If that is the case, there should be somewhere within the "Settings" a way to define the default download path. Maybe you have to create the tartget folder before downloading.
Personally I use Photoshop Elements and when downloading pictures I have the option to direct the files to a specific drive/folder. The other simple option is to just copy the files from the SD card and paste them into the applicable drive/folder.
Sorry that can't be of any more specific assistance.
No problem with access if you store your pictures on the D: drive (assume that is the 4TB Hybrid drive). It is very good practise to keep the 512 Gb SSD (C: drive) for the windows installation and other key programs and not data storage.
A bit surprised that the PC (if new) has been delivered with Windows 7. Would expect it to come with Windows 10. Probably you have a free upgrade to that as part of the package. Windows 10 is in my experience stable and not too many problems but if Windows 7 works for you, no hurry to switch over.
|Thread: Battery terminal|
Interesting method John. Do you pour the cocktail into the carburetor with the engine at idle? Skål.
|Thread: Glow > Petrol Conversion|
No experience of my own. Maybe you could consider using the glow plow G5 developed by OS and used in their GGT 10 & 15 glow petrol engines. These do apparently not require constant glow.
Either you could have plugged the throttle servo (ESC) into the wrong connector (elevator) of the receiver or the transmitter has inadvertently been changed to mode 1 or 3. If the connections at the receiver are correct, select the Systems Settings from the Setup list on the DX9 and select Mode 2 (4?). Hope it works.
PS I see that you got a more comprehensive answer in the post above. Was posted while I was typing.
Edited By Norrland on 15/04/2016 09:56:52
Edited By Norrland on 15/04/2016 10:04:11
Edited By Norrland on 15/04/2016 10:04:32
|Thread: Boddington 60" Bleriot XI|
Hi David, as I'm building a small Bleriot XI I have looked into how to arrange the wires for wing warping. The geometry is to say the least a bit complex. The distances to the wing for the pulley on the top and the fulcrum where the warping wires are attached are not the same, the former being significantly longer. The distance between the pivot point of the fulcrum and the attachement point for the warping wires is also very short compared to the axis made up by the wing.
David, one more thing. The fulcrum for the warping wires on your model is turned up-side down compared to the original. This is one cause for the slacking of the warping wire(s) on the upgoing wing. Not easy to explain the geometry in words. Have a look at the attached photos of a small test-rig I did. Another issue is if this has any impact on the performance of the model. I don't know.
The top two pictures shows the fulcrum pivot point as on your model. The lower two as per the original. Hope this can be of some help.
Edited By Norrland on 24/03/2016 10:14:31
|Thread: DB Tiger Moth 58"|
Glad if the pictures can be of any use. Not my original idea. Saw it somewhere and adapted from memory. Just let me know if I can be of any further help.
Maybe a little too late input on how to access the battery. I did a DB 58" Tiger Moth a few years ago. I opened up the left side if the engine cowl to access the battery. Simple and easy and no need to even turn the plane upside down. The "extra" Deans connector is a safety plug for power to the ESC. Radio and servos are connected to a separate UBEC. Allows me to safely install the battery and fiddle with the servos without connecting the motor. There are some more pictures and data in my album.
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