Here is a list of all the postings jrman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Pusher props|
It looks like a tractor prop for a reverse rotation engine. I don't think it's a pusher prop.
Are you sure it isn't a reverse rotation prop?
|Thread: Ballerina by EarlyBird|
Ziplock freezer bags filled with sand or lead shot are excellent for providing a conforming weight when sheeting wings etc.
|Thread: carbon inner and outer tube wanted|
Try Bucks Composites.
|Thread: Turbo Header or Adaptor plus Flexi pipe?|
I have a number of 4 st with turbo Headers (from Just Engines) and I find them excellent. They don't come loose (use PTFE tape), small and easily installed at any angle. They lower the tone of the exhaust note to a more acceptable level compared to the mfg' s (OS & Saito) silencers. Thoroughly recommended.
|Thread: switch harness|
C8, I know that but can't see how you can measure a voltage drop connected directly to the battery without a switch in the circuit. How was the higher voltage measured and subsequently the lower voltage?
Jonathan, I'm intrigued how you measured a volt drop directly connected to the battery? Where were the volts being dropped? How did you measure the "starting" voltage other than by connecting directly to the battery?
Edited By jrman on 17/07/2020 13:18:38
I agree Peter. An invention of the Devil.
Scott, Have you checked the battery voltage through the switch or charge socket compared to direct from the battery? I thought mine were fine until I discovered the volt drop. Mine were all JR switches.
I have used them in the past but have since replaced them all with switches with charging leads not sockets. Although buying branded makes I found the volt drop across the switch and through the charge socket was excessive (just over 1v in one case).
|Thread: Cleaning out a fuel soaked engine bay?|
Try liberally soaking the wood with isopropyl alcohol, let it soak and then, while it's still soaking fill the bay with rice. (not cooked)
Far better IMHO than talc and certainly easier to clean out.
A couple of "treatments" may be needed.
|Thread: Returning after a long time away|
That's why I use Fibreglass and not carbonfibre arrow shafts.
I've used fibreglass arrow shafts as push rods. Very rigid and lightweight. Hollow shafts are better than solid rods. Stiffer and lighter for comparable diameters.
Edited By jrman on 27/06/2020 09:09:34
|Thread: Multiplex Smart SX / RX-5 M-Link ID 1|
Give Mike Ridley a call. He's the UK Multiplex service agent. A very helpful fella.**LINK**
|Thread: The great i.c. / electric finger chopping debate|
Add JR to the list as well.
|Thread: Fixing bubbles in EPP tape covering|
Gentle heat from a hair dryer rather than a heat shrinking gun should soften the adhesive allowing you to peal the old tape off.
|Thread: Seagull Kits Sparrowhawk|
Don't know what formula 560 is. Google is my friend. Yes that looks fine
Edited By jrman on 19/06/2020 15:49:58
If the crack is tight without tape I would just run the bead along and gently move the crack a little to work the glue in. If you use tape you will likely only put the glue on the crack and not in it. (hope that makes sense) Don't use cyano as it will likely cause the canopy to go foggy.
Edited By jrman on 19/06/2020 15:33:52
|Thread: PNP Repair|
Deluxe Materials list "TRICKY STICK" as a primer on Polypropylene before bonding with cyano. I'm surprised they didn't mention their own product unless you told them it was ABS.
Edited By jrman on 19/06/2020 15:27:19
|Thread: Seagull Kits Sparrowhawk|
Run a bead of canopy glue along the crack. It dries clear and will be barely noticeable.
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