Here is a list of all the postings Mark Stevens 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The component shop|
Have used them quite a few times - can't fault their prices or their service, Top Notch all round.
Big bonus for me is that they are only about 20 mins drive up the road. I'm definitely going to have to pay a visit to their warehouse. I'll probably end up skint lol.
|Thread: IC or Electric for Ripmax DeHavilland Tiger Moth|
|Thread: EDF jet plans|
|Thread: Ink Jet Printing|
Very possible and quite easy to do. I make a lot of custom markings for my Models using exactly the methods described above. They come out well.
This one is covered in various markings (some small ones on there too that are found on the real thing)
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 12/06/2019 01:41:43
|Thread: "Complete A Pac" P47 Thunderbolt|
|Thread: WLTOYS V912 tail rotor problems|
Depending on how you landed it, you may need a new main board, they don't like heavy landings but are cheap enough to replace and easy to fit. The rest of the Heli is pretty tough including those motors.
I've had one for 6 years now and it's still going. Bought it for a fun machine whilst building my bigger helis and it has certainly proved to be a good little flyer.
Ps, the drifting to the right is normal as that is towards the direction of the retreating blade (clockwise rotation on these) and it doesn't quite have the full flapping / damping mechanism found on normal helis
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 04/04/2019 03:12:40
|Thread: A sticky glassing problem!|
I had this problem on a FG moulding before, all the mouldings I'd done just before it from the same batch of stuff all came out fine. I found an answer online to sprinkle some talcum powder over it and work it across the surface to cover it all, any excess is easily wiped or hoovered off with a vac. Leave the talc on for a bit to do it's job (maybe overnight) and then carry on.
It worked a treat for me and I was able to continue the job as normal after that.
It also happens with paints, probably more due to not working in the right temps when it is applied. The talc trick works though.
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 04/04/2019 02:59:58
|Thread: Identification please!|
I would safely ignore the Hughes 500 stickers, they belong to the Hughes 500 Helicopter Fuselage which Kyosho also produced for their Helicopters back in the day.
More relevant to the Magnum PI Helicopter than on your plane
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 01/03/2019 04:13:02
|Thread: Plans Catalogue|
|Thread: Unkown, Help needed|
It's definitely a Boomerang Jet but modified for props. (Google will show plenty of pics of the original) Hard to tell if it is a kit or a home built but it's nicely done.
The jet version is a popular model both as a trainer and as a very capable sport machine. You'll certainly have a lot of fun with this one.
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 09/11/2018 01:30:11
|Thread: WL Toys v911S micro helicopter unboxed, plus a few tweaks!|
Welcome to Proper Helis - You'll certainly have a lot of fun with this one as they are tough little machines and will take a lot of punishment.
As for trimming, yes you can use the methods you have used to tame the bird down a little but you should also have High and low rates on that transmitter for the same purpose. I have the slightly bigger version the V912 which has the same and I've converted mine to flybarless.
Ps - You could have saved yourself some headache when you moved the servo linkages by simply popping the ball link off at the swash plate and then moving the linkage to the next hole instead of messing with the servo screws. Might be worth investing in a set of ball link pliers for this job. It makes life a lot easier and they are not expensive.
I have mine as a little fun machine as I normally fly much larger scale Helis. It has been with me for 5 yrs now and is still going strong.
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 12/09/2018 02:55:08
|Thread: fav model of all time|
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 17/08/2018 01:07:57
As Martian suggested above,
Printing your own is very easy on your computer, even using a 16 yr old printer as I am doing now. Just order the appropriate paper online, cheap and easy and it even comes with instructions how to get the best results.
You can get clear paper for darker markings - Plain black stencils work well on this stuff. If you have anything with any other sort of colour then use the white background paper to allow for the best colour otherwise the markings can end up very transparent and not what you want.. depending on the colour background they are being put on, if it is a white or light background, then no problem you can use the clear paper.
The white background paper is ideal for where you have white in your markings as the majority of printers will not print white.
I'm just finishing off the markings for my Morley Lynx AH-7, some done on clear background paper and some on white background paper.
|Thread: BAE Systems Tempest|
|Thread: Midland Helicopters - Excellent experience|
I do fly Heli's and have used Midland Helicopters a few times now. Always excellent service.
Latest order was last week, finally bought the main blades for my Lynx, they arrived the next day via Royal Mail Special delivery. Just doing the markings / decals now and then weathering. The side windows and any small remaining fittings will be done last.
If Jim Morley was still alive, I think he would love this one as it's one of his fuselage kits (albeit with a lot of scale mods) fitted with the recommended Morley MXA mechanics (which it was designed for) and an OS 50 engine.
I have already had former AAC Lynx crew members looking to buy this and I haven't flown it yet !!
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 11/07/2018 05:09:31
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 11/07/2018 05:31:40
|Thread: Graupner Bell 47|
Ignore, duplicate post - oops
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 30/03/2018 08:48:33
A nice little find. I think you'll find the plastic on that one a lot better than you realise (much better than the stuff used today hence there still a few of these machines still around and even some spares).
As for the engine, take it out and soak in a tub of household white vinegar for a day or so. It's the stuff that's meant for normal cleaning so is not particularly harsh for the job you want to do. Once done, turn it over and flush through with some light machine oil. You will now be fine for when you first fuel it up and run it.
I did exactly the same on a 40 yr old HB25 engine which was totally gummed up from old castor oil. it now runs perfectly. The white vinegar also takes good care of rust and seized nuts / bolts. I've been able to turn rusted seized nuts quite easily by hand after soaking.
The 40 yr old engine was part of a 40 yr old airframe undergoing restoration - the whole lot is now 42 yrs old and flying fine
|Thread: Nice Cartoon|
Chris - As both Stuart and Pete have correctly pointed out, don't push the stick forward on an Autogyro. The mast bumping bit / losing the whole rotorhead speaks for itself.
On other machines with a slightly more rigid head, you will find putting the nose down into a dive actually stops the rotors spinning mean you go into a rapid dive until you pull out to get the rotors spinning up again.
It has been done as a party trick with some model autogyros, I'm sure you can do it quite well on some of the DB designs. I would not try it on the designs that use direct control to the head though.
|Thread: Design & Build Dornier Do 24|
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 07/03/2018 02:24:16
Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 07/03/2018 02:32:03
|Thread: 35 mhz - any value|
I'm one of those still happy flying on 35 Mhz, My set is a Hitec Eclipse 7 and it still performs well. I can change it over to 2.4 Ghz quite easily as it will accept a module in the back of it to allow that (and has been done successfully)
I would obviously need to buy several Rx's for all my models though.
For now I'm quite happy sticking on 35, it works well with no faffing about.
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