By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Lucas Hofman

Here is a list of all the postings Lucas Hofman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Gentle Curves - Lucas his Skywriter
11/03/2018 10:48:27

Panels and lines marked:

img_4634[3].jpg

I have an overlapping panel (simulating the covers one needs to open to service the engine) and some butting panels (the lines where I found then logical).

While these are sprayed with a filling primer (I did 3 thin layers) I started experienting with rivets. I followed the recipe I found on a tutorial on rcscalebuilders.com. Used canopy glue with a little grey paint and one of the small Banggood bottles. the challenge it looks is not making too big rivets:

img_4639[1].jpg

(please do not laugh, masters of scale....)

Lucas

05/03/2018 20:07:10

And now a question. Should I (wet)sand the filling primer before adding tape for lines and spraying those. It is a smooth service, and I would hate so sand through the filling primer some places.

Or will the top coat adhere to the glass without a primer coat without problems?

Lucas (scale newbie)

05/03/2018 17:15:37

Another step. Sprayed filler (from a can). Filled pinnholes and sanded with with 240 grit paper (dry) and sprayed 3 more thin layers. I am pleased with the result. Now some lines and rivets and she is ready for paint.

img_4619[2].jpg

Lucas

05/03/2018 17:12:48

I have let the glass heng over any sharp corner, and cut if off after curing by sanding with a 180 gritt sanding block. The weaved fibreglass fabric is very pliable: the cowling could be done in one go without cutting or overlaps, just massaging around the corners.

Give it a go. It is easier then you think and the surface is very durable afterwards. Since my easykote still not has arrived I used finishing resin, that worked fine as well.

Lucas

28/02/2018 14:52:38

All done and coated once more to fill the weave. On the picture one sees the new struts. I was not happy with the old ones (shown to the right) The new ones are symmitrical and easily profiled. Satisfied now. Spraying is next. The car repair shop does hardly spray filler, and if they do they use a special gun for that. I will give it a try with a 2K epoxy primer I use on the boat. It is a high build primer so 2-3 coats might be ok to create panel lines.

The only problem is that the garage is at -10-15 celsius so not suitable for spraying. I need to create a small spray booth in the workshop in the cellar.

img_4606[1].jpg

26/02/2018 08:32:29

Indeed Tim. Sand with a sponge with 180/240 paper. Feathers to nothing very easily. If I would have known it was so easy I would not have waited so long (but then I would not have had a cute SE5a by now...)

Lucas

26/02/2018 07:11:03

The last bit:

img_4601[1].jpg

That was much easier than I thought. One more coat with epoxy and we are ready for primer/filler.

Cheers, Lucas

23/02/2018 20:56:33

Now we are moving again. Did the another hatch, the bottom of the fuselage and the most difficult part (the cowling) yesterday. No wrinkles. Fuseside tonight, other side tomorrow and top on sunday:

img_4587[1].jpg

I want to simulate some panels, and need a high build primer I can use in a small airbrush. It will work with a 2-comp high-build epoxyprimer, but a one component (if possible water based) would be nicer. I will use water based paint as as a top color coat, but am still looking for a primer. Any suggestions?

Lucas

22/02/2018 08:41:25

Here you can see it flying: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8nOrRoYt6WPn2kHA3

It is easy to fly (after balancing correctly). Building needed a lamp with a magnifying glass though.

Lucas

22/02/2018 07:46:26

'Ordered long ago but it has not arrived yet. The friendly people at SLEC send a new bottle last week, but so far nothing has shown up.

The time has been used to build a Microaces SE-5a, which had it maiden last Saturday:

se5a complete.jpg

But I do still have finishing epoxy, so after reading up on how to glass a model the first bits were done yesterday (using 25 gr. duk):

glassing - first pieces.jpg

Dead easy. Tonight the remaining pieces and the bottom of the fuse.

Cheers, Lucas

 

Edited By Lucas Hofman on 22/02/2018 07:51:17

Thread: Timís Grumpy Tigercub
22/02/2018 06:35:30

Congratulations Tim!

Lucas

07/02/2018 10:47:32

Having retracts does add weight but decreases drag a good deal. I would not be surprised if the latter has more effect then the former.

07/02/2018 06:22:31

Congratulations Tim, this looks really good.

You should have no problem flying it scale. If you want near vertical performance (which the original does not have) you have to add power.

Regards, Lucas

01/02/2018 19:59:13

This is going to be a nervous maiden!

Thread: Gentle Curves - Lucas his Skywriter
26/01/2018 10:18:39

Thanks for the tip Martyn. The video made it look very easy. No-one in Norway sells Eze-kote, so I ordered a bottle from SLEC. Hope it arrives soon.

Lucas

26/01/2018 08:38:27

I may find something else I can use to postpone it a little more.... (but just now I cannot think of anything)

26/01/2018 08:00:26

Finishing touch for the rudder horns:

horn painted.jpg

Always difficult to mix paint so that the colour matches but a lot better then carbon black.

Lucas

Thread: Timís Grumpy Tigercub
25/01/2018 10:38:06

I have the small trim iron (https://coverite.hobbico.com/accys/covr2750.html) and it works well, except you have to tape over the temperature slider. If you do not you end up at max temperature every so often, it is positioned just where my fingers are when I hold it.

Bought it in the US when visiting for USD 29 if I remember correctly. Of course it is on 110V so I needed a step down transformer too.

For the fiddly work it is great, but I do not use it often.

If you have a soldering station where you can set low temperatures I think the idea of a modified and well polished tip may also work very well.

Lucas

25/01/2018 06:37:09

The fuse is easy if you do the aft fuse in 5 pieces: bottom first, sidene etter, turtle deck last starting with a straight side of a piece of covering at the side (to you have a straight seam there. Then over the top like you would do a wing tip, having at least an inch for your fingers to pull. Cut with sissors at straight as you manage 5mm over the top and iron down.

Repeat other side but now you should have enough overlap to cut at the centerline. If the seams turns out a bit ragged cut a stripe of film and cover it, so you get 2 straight seams a few mm. apart.

Try to get all sides fastened without wrinkles. At last tension at higher temperatur, left and right alternating. Sometimes (with HK) film on gets a white line at a seam if the covering shrinks. This can be removed with aceton.

And remember, if you make a mess of a piece you can always pull it, take a cup of tea and a deep breath and start over!

Lucas

Thread: Gentle Curves - Lucas his Skywriter
19/01/2018 11:29:27

Ligtening holes. Only the outer one will be used for the clevis. Complete nonsense, but more in line with what you find in real planes:

elevator horn rv9.jpg

I assume it is now clear to everyone why my builds are quite slow ....

Lucas

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Sussex Model Centre
CML
electricwingman 2017
Slec
Advertise With Us
Sarik
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Has home isolation prompted you to start trad' building?
Q: The effects of Coronavirus

 Yes - for the first time
 Yes - but Ive bashed balsa before
 No - Ive existing projects on the bench
 No - Im strictly an ARTF person

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E!