Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Model vs Trees|
Well I recently wrote off my Seagull extra because I did the first 90 degree of the rectangular landing approach & as I levelled out I had lost too much speed. I intended going into a glide to loose a bit of height before throttling up & turning the last 90 degrees & approach. Suddenly, without warning, it tipped a wing & spun into the ground.(From Tree top height to stay on thread title) Normally i do a circular approach & keep the power on as it is always banking. Silly mistake, but probably started in the turn because I had entered it down wind without enough throttle to start with. That being a habit from my learning days. Prompting my thread drift above.
Thanks for posting that & I asked because as a yachtsman (My main hobby so I tend to get out of practice each year) I am aware of speed over ground & speed through the water caused by tidal drift. I expected the same for an RC plane in the wind
In training for my A test the instructor spent a lot of time teaching me throttle control & would get me to reduce throttle on down wind legs. I could never understand why, because if a model needs 30 mph to fly then if the wind was 10 mph it would do 20 mph up wind & need 40 mph down wind. Hence dropping back to 30 mph down wind always seemed wrong.
We had a senior examiner from the BMFA come to the club to talk about work of the BMFA & flying demonstrations were given to show various aspects of testing. He also mentioned reducing throttle on down wind legs. I was too nervous to challenge his comment at the time, as he was a senior examiner & I had not yet passed the A test. (I have now)
However. I have had several stalls & the inevitable spins just as I have turned at the downwind leg (did not happen with trainers, so problem never arose) & you really have shown me that I must try to forget the habit that I got into in my learning & make sure I open the throttle a lot quicker before starting the turn.
Thank you & sorry for the thread drift
Edited By Sam Longley on 18/07/2019 09:11:10
I suppose it would be too much of a thread drift to ask for you to elucidate a bit more on that one
A possible tip for those, like me, that seem to get attracted to trees is to have a cheap fishing pole in the kit. Mine is 9 metres long when extended & is quite stiff. Folded it is about 800mm long. I have a nice stainless steel wire prong taped to the top made from a wall tie. Mine was purchased whilst on holiday in France & cost 22 euros from a French fishing tackle shop. 9 metres along with my height gives one a considerable reach & i often do not need every section.
Seems to get borrowed at regular intervals at the club & at our yacht club as it is also good for catching stray lines up the mast.
|Thread: Home Insurance|
I am insured with Hiscocks. I have public liability which does include flying model planes( plus my wife playing golf) I have had this confirmed by email
It also includes ( Because I had it added) £ 10,000 cover for items in my locked workshops except my sailing gear, winsurfing gear & my dinghy, which is covered by my sailing policy). It includes my lathe, mill, tools etc plus all modelling gear. IThis is theft but if a fire then it is included with my contents which is unlimited as is the property value. Bikes etc are covered on top of the £10K, whether in the sheds at home or away.
General excess £ 500-00 ( my choice because I do not want to loose any excess over a small claim) , Flood risk has a £2500-00 excess though
Home & contents are unlimited
Edited By Sam Longley on 14/12/2018 13:32:08
|Thread: Home DIY|
Drill the steel with a sharp 8mm drill bit you wuz. Once the bit bites it will drill 8mm OK through thin steel. You will be drilling into a simple preformed steel lintol about 4-6mm thick. if it is not a concrete one. Just put your shoulder behind it & push. Get in a good position so that you are not waving the drill about like a flag at a parade.
If you just play with it so that the drill just rubs you will blunt the drill bit & harden the steel. Push it.
You do not get RSJs on external walls very often & if you do they can still be drilled unless you happen to drill right on the web.
Edited By Sam Longley on 06/11/2018 19:08:05
Edited By Sam Longley on 06/11/2018 19:08:39
|Thread: Throttle connection to a DLE 20|
Thanks for the pics. I had originally thought to place the throttle servo in the main area with the other items but now I have seen suggestions the idea of moving it right up to the engine opens lots more options.
Forum has come to the rescue it seems
Thanks for the note re the undercarriage. I will probably stick to my usual engine first landings to save the undercarriage from damage. I usually stick a couple of spins in to make them look more dramatic
I am fitting a DLE 20 RE to my new Seagull 90-120extra. The exit point to the throttle push rod seems, at first investigation, to come only slightly off centre line. This means that when I install the fuel tank the push rod will have to bend around it & because it moves back & forth any bends may foul the bulkheads or tank etc. A flexible plastic pushrod in a tube may have too much friction.
What i would like to do is offset the throttle somehow at the engine end & run the pushrod in a straight line down the side of the fuselage so that without any bends i can position other parts OK. Plus I will not get any flexing in the linkage that I might get with sharp bends in the line. I would rather not try to alter the throttle position on the engine & in any case that would not actually solve the problem. I cannot extend the throttle arm as it will just foul the engine mounting
May i ask if anyone has any clever solutions- perhaps a bellcrank at the engine end etc- that solves the issue. Or is it just a case of a flexible pushrod in a tube & accept the friction
|Thread: Something that will bounce|
That is correct. Sorry if I confused the "non builders" within the forum
With a profile fuselage one cannot really install push pull system to the rudder because the way the servos are mounted. Ok with the elevator though
I needed some 4 lb lead cut into discs with hole saws. I used 2 at 2 inch diameter and 3 at 1 inch diameter plus 2 6mm pan washers and a 6mm bolt. I bolted that lot as near to the nose as reasonable ( lowest front point under the motor so it acts as a buffer) with the discs clamped each side of the foam. I did this so that in a crash they would remain fixed & not move about. Plus I can release the bolt & adjust on the field easily if I wish.
i have not changed anything in the construction, servos etc, so nothing to affect c of g
C of g is now just behind the recommended forward point, ie just behind the main spar
Edited By Sam Longley on 28/07/2018 08:32:45
Edited By Sam Longley on 28/07/2018 08:33:24
I bought the Wargo from Hobby King along with 2 Turnigy nano tech batteries.
I found one was dud so went through the hassle of getting an exchange sent. Unfortunately I was sailing when the replacement was delivered . The item was supposed to be delivered the following day but inspite of my wife being sat in the room at the front of the house at the alleged delivery time neither the battery or the note through the letter box arrived.
After 15 mins on the phone I had to waste another half day waiting & it arrived & guess what-- Yup a faulty cell.
Hobby king really can sell some carp when they try
The plane took loads of lead in the nose so perhaps I could use my normal 2200 batteries instead of the 1500 ones I intended to use. I really cannot be bothered with the hassle of wasting days waiting for deliveries so £ 13-00 wasted
However, first flight today with the single battery & i am really surprised at how well that went. I was hovering against the gentle breeze within 3 minutes & low rolls at 10 feet. Something I have never dared with my Jive
So once I get some decent batteries all should be well.
|Thread: How to retain surface wires to foamy planes|
I have bought ( following tips from forumites herein) a foamie Wargo Yak 55 from HobbyKing.
The rudder & elevator servos are in the tail & the servo leads etc are on the face of the proflled fuselage.These are, at the minute, trailing loose. the esc leads are also waving in the breeze.
Can someone please advise the best way to retain the rudder & elevator leads along the fus sides. I have tried bits of tape & it just peels the paint off. I am thinking of stitching through the fuselage with thread to the wires on the oposite side every 40mm or so. is that an option?
Then when I get to the motor & ESC it is just a mess of wires. I thought of drilling holes through the fuselage & putting cable ties through to hold them & the ESC in place.
What is the best way to hold the esc. Hot melt glue just melted the foam
Any ideas greatly appreciated
|Thread: Something that will bounce|
With due respect. You are contradicting yourself.
On one hand you are telling me about how good a particular seagull model is then on the other you are telling me that the quality of another model is no where near as good.
That demonstrates inconsistencies in construction does it not
Furthermore, ASH suggests that perhaps the models I have seen might just have had poor glues. Well yes they did! & that was the problem- They fell apart
So if a particular manufacturer has inconsistencies across its range (within not dissimilar price ranges) then that makes it very difficult for someone like me to just go & buy a model from them with confidence - Does it not?
I know that other manufacturers have the same problems but one can buy (for instance)a Chris Foss designed plane from Ripmax,& be reasonably certain that it will stay together.(but not all other planes in the Ripmax range)
What model does one look for in the Seagull range (or any other for that matter) to give one confidence in one's purchase?
Plus, who are the good CONSISTENT manufacturers at the sub £300-00 price range in IC planes?
The fact that Pilot are happy to supply replacement wood parts FOC (plus postage) following minor prangs must give one some confidence. I do know club members with good experience of them. So that might be one. Are they priced sub £300-00?
Edited By Sam Longley on 11/07/2018 22:32:16
Pilot are nicely built planes but, as far as I can see, the specs all show them as being for electrics. I sometimes wonder if an airframe built for electric can take the vibration of a petrol engine along with the strain of starting pressure etc
We have had some Seagull models in the club but they seem so badly built; falling apart (one in mid air) kind of puts me off them
Looked at the reviews & vids & took Trebor's advice & have ordered the Wargo Yac 55
Thanks to everyone who chose to reply. I did not take everyone's advice, (that would be impossible me thinks!!) but I have heeded many of the comments, so they were not in vain I can assure you. --- But I have not bought a football; Tom Sharp 2
I now want a model to put my DLE 20cc engine in, to practice the IMAC, It is surprising how difficult it is to find a nice ARF that will fit the bill.
But somehow I am not sure that I dare ask for a while.I dare not risk another head chopping experience just yet. ( can one imagine the---"You cannot try 2 things at once etc etc"
Just practicing the manouvers can be quite fun. It is better in someways than just flapping around the sky as it imposes a discipline to ones flying & improves stick & flight control. They are easy enough in themselves, but getting them clinically accurate is the difference. At least it does not take weeks to actually pull something off ,(like a 3d trick) to start with. The time is in perfecting it.
No! because they are not particularly cheap & having had a Riot I doubt would not be that easy to repair. It is too heavy. It is getting away from "cheepo bouncy 3d"
I was sailing dinghies about 4-5 years after you were borne !!!!!.
Buy a copy Of Practical Boat Owner - Summer Issue,& read pages 40-43
Shall I go on?
BEB you have summed it up but your opening sentence may be right but you need to understand that I intend to beat the 3d barrier, That is my target. Just because someone else cannot do it is no reason to say i should not & that is what got me started in my post. I did not really mean to insult Percy, Although it comes across as that.
My main hobby is sailing . I was probably sailing, & winning schoolboys races, before Percy was flying model planes.
But if someone asks advice about foiling dinghies I do not say " Buy an old gaffer because that is what I have got because I cannot sail a foiling moth" I say " sorry no experience" & leave it to others to reply"
The rest of your post is spot on. Of course I intend to move slowly but some of our older club members have told me " if you are not prepared to take the crashes then it is not for you, Go back to your boat".
Even "simpler "moves need to be learned. But having a good model for it makes a good start. No different to sailing. Hence my asking for opinion.
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