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Member postings for Sam Longley

Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Looking after your LiPo cells
06/04/2020 21:25:43
Posted by Tim Mackey on 01/02/2008 12:50:00:

Using them cold of course is different - they perform very poorly if cold - very noticeably in EDFS etc, where every little bit helps. I always warm them in the car or my inside pocket before fitting and flying.

Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 18/08/2009 19:10:15

I have just read the first part of this old thread. Are you really telling me- as a beginner, as far as electrics are concerned- that I can walk about with these in my inside pocket???

I asked because I watched my (Senior BMFA) instructor place one on a table ( It was fitted to his starter). Someone said " Watch out that is going to blow"-"Nah! it is OK" a few moments later it exploded & burned a hole through the table, before falling to the ground.

So what would that do to me?

Thread: What does your wife or significant other half think of your hobby?
30/12/2019 18:31:40

Encourages me to go flying. Likes to see me participating. It is my winter hobby, as I go single handed sailing for at least 15 weeks every year & that costs waaay more than a bunch of planes. She plays golf so as long as she can have unrestricted golfing she is happy.

This Xmas she spoke to our local hobby shop owner, who said that my planes were looking a bit tatty, so prezzie was a new ARTF. I bought her a golfing GPS watch with which she was delighted.

Happy days

Thread: C.A.A Reg number ,inside or outside ????
28/12/2019 19:37:02

Been asked for my fishing license quite a lot of times over the years.So it is not inconceivable that there may be some inspectors appointed.

Thread: Graupner
06/12/2019 20:57:26

Annoying if, like a friend of mine, you have invested in a Graupner transmitter & will want some receivers in the future.. Need to stock up now.

06/12/2019 17:19:02

Thanks. I suppose I should have done a search before posting !!!!!!!blush

06/12/2019 16:20:07

Heard today that they have gone belly up. Is that true, or is it old news?

If true, it is a pity, I built Graupner models in my younger days & that might be as much as 50 years ago. Sad sign of the times.


Edited By Sam Longley on 06/12/2019 16:22:24

Thread: Model vs Trees
18/07/2019 19:33:17

Well I recently wrote off my Seagull extra because I did the first 90 degree of the rectangular landing approach & as I levelled out I had lost too much speed. I intended going into a glide to loose a bit of height before throttling up & turning the last 90 degrees & approach. Suddenly, without warning, it tipped a wing & spun into the ground.(From Tree top height to stay on thread titlecrook) Normally i do a circular approach & keep the power on as it is always banking. Silly mistake, but probably started in the turn because I had entered it down wind without enough throttle to start with. That being a habit from my learning days. Prompting my thread drift above.

18/07/2019 09:08:23
Posted by Peter Jenkins on 16/07/2019 23:53:09:
Posted by Sam Longley on 16/07/2019 18:50:43:
Posted by Levanter on 25/01/2019 07:38:08:

Taken to extreme and the windspeed is greater than the airspeed and the aircraft can appear to stand still or even go backwards! But we all know that is "impossible" in aerodynamic terms zo we readily accept the concept of a headwind. . It also explains the common and infamous stall on the downwind turn.

I suppose it would be too much of a thread drift to ask for you to elucidate a bit more on that onewink

The infamous stall on the downwind leg is caused by pilots thinking that a high downwind ground speed can be reduced by reducing airspeed! The result, is the infamous stall on the downwind leg.

It is quire surprising how many experienced pilots, and even an examiner on one occasion, do not understand the vital difference between air speed and ground speed.

An earlier comment by Simon Cragg falls into that category.

Where things do get confused is when you are descending through a wind gradient (that is wind speed reducing as you approach the ground - exactly like the boundary layer on the wing). In this case, you need to increase your approach speed when landing otherwise as you descend your airspeed will drop away as the speed of the block of air reduces. That is unless you have a very light foamy that immediately reacts to the change in airspeed.

Aerodynamics is not something most model pilots have studied. Where they have it tends to be at a very basic level. Some of us who post on here actually have studied aerodynamics to degree level, have done flight test courses and flew full size power and gliders. It's up to you if you wish to ignore the advice but don't complain when you end up with a broken aeroplane because you ignored the advice.

Thanks for posting that & I asked because as a yachtsman (My main hobby so I tend to get out of practice each year) I am aware of speed over ground & speed through the water caused by tidal drift. I expected the same for an RC plane in the wind

In training for my A test the instructor spent a lot of time teaching me throttle control & would get me to reduce throttle on down wind legs. I could never understand why, because if a model needs 30 mph to fly then if the wind was 10 mph it would do 20 mph up wind & need 40 mph down wind. Hence dropping back to 30 mph down wind always seemed wrong.

We had a senior examiner from the BMFA come to the club to talk about work of the BMFA & flying demonstrations were given to show various aspects of testing. He also mentioned reducing throttle on down wind legs. I was too nervous to challenge his comment at the time, as he was a senior examiner & I had not yet passed the A test. (I have now)

However. I have had several stalls & the inevitable spins just as I have turned at the downwind leg (did not happen with trainers, so problem never arose) & you really have shown me that I must try to forget the habit that I got into in my learning & make sure I open the throttle a lot quicker before starting the turn.

Thank you & sorry for the thread drift


Edited By Sam Longley on 18/07/2019 09:11:10

16/07/2019 18:50:43
Posted by Levanter on 25/01/2019 07:38:08:

Taken to extreme and the windspeed is greater than the airspeed and the aircraft can appear to stand still or even go backwards! But we all know that is "impossible" in aerodynamic terms zo we readily accept the concept of a headwind. . It also explains the common and infamous stall on the downwind turn.

I suppose it would be too much of a thread drift to ask for you to elucidate a bit more on that onewink

16/07/2019 18:47:27

A possible tip for those, like me, that seem to get attracted to trees is to have a cheap fishing pole in the kit. Mine is 9 metres long when extended & is quite stiff. Folded it is about 800mm long. I have a nice stainless steel wire prong taped to the top made from a wall tie. Mine was purchased whilst on holiday in France & cost 22 euros from a French fishing tackle shop. 9 metres along with my height gives one a considerable reach & i often do not need every section.

Seems to get borrowed at regular intervals at the club & at our yacht club as it is also good for catching stray lines up the mast.

Thread: Home Insurance
14/12/2018 13:29:05

I am insured with Hiscocks. I have public liability which does include flying model planes( plus my wife playing golf) I have had this confirmed by email

It also includes ( Because I had it added) £ 10,000 cover for items in my locked workshops except my sailing gear, winsurfing gear & my dinghy, which is covered by my sailing policy). It includes my lathe, mill, tools etc plus all modelling gear. IThis is theft but if a fire then it is included with my contents which is unlimited as is the property value. Bikes etc are covered on top of the £10K, whether in the sheds at home or away.

General excess £ 500-00 ( my choice because I do not want to loose any excess over a small claim) , Flood risk has a £2500-00 excess though

Home & contents are unlimited


Edited By Sam Longley on 14/12/2018 13:32:08

Thread: Home DIY
06/11/2018 19:06:36

Drill the steel with a sharp 8mm drill bit you wuz. Once the bit bites it will drill 8mm OK through thin steel. You will be drilling into a simple preformed steel lintol about 4-6mm thick. if it is not a concrete one. Just put your shoulder behind it & push. Get in a good position so that you are not waving the drill about like a flag at a parade.

If you just play with it so that the drill just rubs you will blunt the drill bit & harden the steel. Push it.teeth

You do not get RSJs on external walls very often & if you do they can still be drilled unless you happen to drill right on the web.

Edited By Sam Longley on 06/11/2018 19:08:05

Edited By Sam Longley on 06/11/2018 19:08:39

Thread: Throttle connection to a DLE 20
24/09/2018 15:11:00

Thanks for the pics. I had originally thought to place the throttle servo in the main area with the other items but now I have seen suggestions the idea of moving it right up to the engine opens lots more options.

Forum has come to the rescue it seems


Thanks for the note re the undercarriage. I will probably stick to my usual engine first landings to save the undercarriage from damage. I usually stick a couple of spins in to make them look more dramaticcrook

23/09/2018 13:32:27

I am fitting a DLE 20 RE to my new Seagull 90-120extra. The exit point to the throttle push rod seems, at first investigation, to come only slightly off centre line. This means that when I install the fuel tank the push rod will have to bend around it & because it moves back & forth any bends may foul the bulkheads or tank etc. A flexible plastic pushrod in a tube may have too much friction.

What i would like to do is offset the throttle somehow at the engine end & run the pushrod in a straight line down the side of the fuselage so that without any bends i can position other parts OK. Plus I will not get any flexing in the linkage that I might get with sharp bends in the line. I would rather not try to alter the throttle position on the engine & in any case that would not actually solve the problem. I cannot extend the throttle arm as it will just foul the engine mounting

May i ask if anyone has any clever solutions- perhaps a bellcrank at the engine end etc- that solves the issue. Or is it just a case of a flexible pushrod in a tube & accept the friction

Thread: Something that will bounce
28/07/2018 18:13:12
Posted by Bob Cotsford on 28/07/2018 16:47:19:

I think Sam meant that he used "4lb lead" cut as described - it's how lead flashing is designated 4lb/sq ft. The weight would be nearer 4oz than 4 lb!

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 28/07/2018 16:47:54

That is correct. Sorry if I confused the "non builders" within the forum

28/07/2018 13:33:00
Posted by trebor on 28/07/2018 08:56:38:

How much lead ? I know you can just stick the servos in the foam for less weight but I used the ply mounts. It is possible to run pull pull lines with nylon line up the fuselage for mounting servos forward, could help you out. What motor are you fitting ?

With a profile fuselage one cannot really install push pull system to the rudder because the way the servos are mounted. Ok with the elevator though

28/07/2018 08:30:19

I needed some 4 lb lead cut into discs with hole saws. I used 2 at 2 inch diameter and 3 at 1 inch diameter plus 2 6mm pan washers and a 6mm bolt. I bolted that lot as near to the nose as reasonable ( lowest front point under the motor so it acts as a buffer) with the discs clamped each side of the foam. I did this so that in a crash they would remain fixed & not move about. Plus I can release the bolt & adjust on the field easily if I wish.

i have not changed anything in the construction, servos etc, so nothing to affect c of g

C of g is now just behind the recommended forward point, ie just behind the main spar

Edited By Sam Longley on 28/07/2018 08:32:45

Edited By Sam Longley on 28/07/2018 08:33:24

27/07/2018 19:42:35

So Update

I bought the Wargo from Hobby King along with 2 Turnigy nano tech batteries.

I found one was dud so went through the hassle of getting an exchange sent. Unfortunately I was sailing when the replacement was delivered . The item was supposed to be delivered the following day but inspite of my wife being sat in the room at the front of the house at the alleged delivery time neither the battery or the note through the letter box arrived.

After 15 mins on the phone I had to waste another half day waiting & it arrived & guess what-- Yup a faulty cell.

Hobby king really can sell some carp when they try

The plane took loads of lead in the nose so perhaps I could use my normal 2200 batteries instead of the 1500 ones I intended to use. I really cannot be bothered with the hassle of wasting days waiting for deliveries so £ 13-00 wasted

However, first flight today with the single battery & i am really surprised at how well that went. I was hovering against the gentle breeze within 3 minutes & low rolls at 10 feet. Something I have never dared with my Jive

So once I get some decent batteries all should be well.

Thread: How to retain surface wires to foamy planes
19/07/2018 17:37:46

I have bought ( following tips from forumites herein) a foamie Wargo Yak 55 from HobbyKing.

The rudder & elevator servos are in the tail & the servo leads etc are on the face of the proflled fuselage.These are, at the minute, trailing loose. the esc leads are also waving in the breeze.

Can someone please advise the best way to retain the rudder & elevator leads along the fus sides. I have tried bits of tape & it just peels the paint off. I am thinking of stitching through the fuselage with thread to the wires on the oposite side every 40mm or so. is that an option?

Then when I get to the motor & ESC it is just a mess of wires. I thought of drilling holes through the fuselage & putting cable ties through to hold them & the ESC in place.

What is the best way to hold the esc. Hot melt glue just melted the foam

Any ideas greatly appreciated


Thread: Something that will bounce
11/07/2018 22:30:14
Posted by trebor on 11/07/2018 19:55:02:

I picked up one of these but the quality is no where near as good as the Edge **LINK**

With due respect. You are contradicting yourself.

On one hand you are telling me about how good a particular seagull model is then on the other you are telling me that the quality of another model is no where near as good.

That demonstrates inconsistencies in construction does it not

Furthermore, ASH suggests that perhaps the models I have seen might just have had poor glues. Well yes they did! & that was the problem- They fell apart

So if a particular manufacturer has inconsistencies across its range (within not dissimilar price ranges) then that makes it very difficult for someone like me to just go & buy a model from them with confidence - Does it not?

I know that other manufacturers have the same problems but one can buy (for instance)a Chris Foss designed plane from Ripmax,& be reasonably certain that it will stay together.(but not all other planes in the Ripmax range)

What model does one look for in the Seagull range (or any other for that matter) to give one confidence in one's purchase?

Plus, who are the good CONSISTENT manufacturers at the sub £300-00 price range in IC planes?

The fact that Pilot are happy to supply replacement wood parts FOC (plus postage) following minor prangs must give one some confidence. I do know club members with good experience of them. So that might be one. Are they priced sub £300-00?


Edited By Sam Longley on 11/07/2018 22:32:16

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