Here is a list of all the postings Gordon Whitehead 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Wots Wot XL|
17x7? One of these might do. I've ordered one of each to try on my Laser 155
Ignore the free shipping banner as you have to spend $$$$$ to get it.
|Thread: Aldi scroll saw|
Hi Bob, thanks for your advice and I'll have a go at setting up a blade through a hole in the way you describe. Clearly with the number of items you've made the technique can be mastered. On my brief experiment at mounting pinless blades in the adaptors I found it to be a fiddly process using the gauge provided Also, hooking the lower adaptor onto the lower arm took a few attempts initially and i couldn't imagine doing it successfully through a sheet of wood. Just ignoring the gauge as you apparently do must be the way to go.
My heavy-duty Dremel in the garage just has wing-ended screws for simply finger-tightening the blades and the blades never come loose in use. Maybe I was tightening the Aldi adaptor screws too tight with the allen key.
I'll get some practice on the thing! I want to use pinless blades as they are more slender than the pinned ones and do cleaner cuts.
@ Don Fry, the machine looks like being a good one and certainly well worth the Aldi price. There are enough positive comments on this thread for me to have dashed out and bought one if I hadn't done so already anyway.
I bought one to replace my 40-odd year old Dremel Moto Shop. I'll miss the Dremel's flexidrive take-off, and the grinding wheel which needed to be permanently mounted as a flywheel to reduce the copious vibration. But the Aldi's variable speed and acceptance of pin-less blades are both advantages.
The pinless mounting system is crude, however, and it's difficult to get the blade exiting each adaptor straight out. The ends of the 4mm clamping screws haven't been dressed flat, and the sharp ends grab on the blade whilst tightening and drag the blade out of true. I chucked the screws in my electric drill and dressed the ends flat with a file, and this made it easier to maintain proper blade alignment whilst tightening the screws, but only after repeated practice. What's needed is a clamp system that doesn't try to rotate the blade.
So I designed and made one.
The holes at right-angles to the clamping screws are threaded 10-32. I took a 10-32 screw and cut an axial slit about 5/16in long using a junior hacksaw. Then I filed flats on each side of the screw parallel to the slit. The 10-32 is screwed into the blade adaptor until its end just passes beyond the blade hole. With the slit aligned with the blade hole, the blade is inserted through the slit. Tightening the 4mm screws against the flats squeezes the 10-32's slit closed onto the blade, clamping it with no twisting out of true. After the first tightening of a blade end, there's only the need to slacken and re-tighten one of the 4mm clamping screws when blade changing, leaving the other fixed.
The only reason I want to be able to use pin-less blades is that I have quite a stock of them bought a while back for use on a very heavy duty Dremel table saw which I bought off the internet and which turned out to be ok for use in the garage, but far too heavy to carry upstairs to my bedroom workshop where I want to be when cutting and building.
The big failing in the Aldi's pin-less blade adaptor is its size. A pinned blade will pass through a 3/16in hole if you want to cut out the centre of a bulkhead. The pin-less adaptor will need a hole about an inch square to achieve that, and even then mounting the bottom adaptor whilst holding the plywood sheet to be cut will be a struggle, and will most likely need the side plate taking off (2 screws hold it) so you can position the bottom adaptor. .
So unless you're happy with cutting through from the outside of a bulkhead as one has to do using a bandsaw, you might as well forget the pin-less blades and just use pinned ones, if such can be obtained with the correct tooth form and pitch for the job in hand.
If anyone is interested to see my clamp I'll try to photograph it and post it here.
Any other better ideas regarding pin=less blade mounting are welcome!
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 22/11/2017 15:08:31
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 22/11/2017 15:10:59
|Thread: Laser 150 V TWIN REBUILD|
No problem Jon The current clamp system is neat and foolproof, a reliable system essential for keeping the carbs secure on the vees.
Those dinky mufflers look the bees knees. The 150 will sound lovely through those
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 21/11/2017 22:35:54
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 21/11/2017 22:37:28
That's a lovely looking machine. I had one of the early Laser 75s (= one half of your engine) in a 55in span biplane aerobat I designed especially for it and it really was a powerhouse. Unfortunately the grub screw fastening for the silencer and carb was a weak point and the carb and silencer frequently came loose due to vibration. Maybe I didn't tighten them enough but I did screw them up to the point where I felt that the next twist of the key would strip a thread in the head or bend the key permanently. It was a right royal pain with a cowled engine. Eventually, and well before the current clamp system evolved on production Lasers, I made my own admittedly crude clamps which cured the problem.
If your not going to throw your 150-powered plane around in the sky doing chain-mail aerobatics with lots of throttle changes then maybe you won't suffer the problem, especially as the vee vibrates less. I never tried thread lock and maybe should have done.
The foregoing isn't intended to rain on your parade as the 75 was a lovely engine with which I had lots of really good flying, but mention it as something to look out for when you begin running your 150.
|Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI|
Hi Guys, I'm not sure I'm doing the right thing butting in right now, but don't hesitate to let me know if I'm misunderstanding the way you want to do the ailerons.
Looking at the wing rib diagrams in earlier posts, they look to be drawn with the intention of assembling the ailerons along with the rest of the wing panel. However, I'm sure that the intention on the Bryant plan is that the ailerons should be built separately using the same centre-web method as for the tail feathers. Basically you cut the ribs into top and bottom halves along the chord line, glue a set of upper rib halves along with the upper halves of the leading and trailing edges onto the centre web which is pinned flat on the building board, then invert the assembly and add the remaining rib halves and lower le, jigging as required against built-in warps. Then the block Frise leading edge extension can be added and shaped.
For those who've not met this method before, the centre web was invented way back in the 1960's for free flight scale model tailplanes as a method of reducing the risk of warping as the doped covering shrunk and the model aged. I first read about it in one of the excellent Eric Coates' articles in Aeromodeller back in the 1970s, and it does work.
The Dick van Mourik article linked earlier has a photo of an aileron in which the 1/16th balsa centre web can be seen clearly.
Out of interest I looked at my copy of the Bryant Bristol Bulldog plan, and this model doesn't have the centre web built into its ailerons. FWIW, all four ailerons on a bipe I've nearly finished building have small warps, around 1mm or so. So now I'm wondering if building them as per the Bryant Fury ailerons, which I'd never studied in such detail before, would have kept 'em straight
Hope I'm not interfering too much.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 14/11/2017 13:41:27
|Thread: Oily glow powered models|
I'd follow Peter's advice as Saito spares can be out of stock for ages. For years I looked for Walbro carb diaphragm kits to hold as spares for my two 9 year old Saito 36cc petrols. Neither Macgregor nor Horizon Hobby in the USA ever had them. As it's a special to type model engine carb the items aren't available from Walbro dealers. Three weeks ago I was surfing MacGregor's website and nearly fell off my chair when I saw that they had two diaphragm kits in stock. So I got 'em both, the carbs are now like new again, and MacG are out of stock again.
Thanks Pete. That sounds like a good way of localising the oil as a dribble on the fuz underside, so that it doesn't spray the entire underside back to the tail.
@ Peter Miller
Hi Peter, is that a 4-stroke in Peggy Sue 2, and if so, how do you keep the crankcase breather oil off the model?
Hi Charles, you haven't mentioned whether the rear of the prop ends up coated in oil residue after a run. If that's the case, then it's likely to be caused by oil leaking through the front bearing and being flung out along the prop blades, as well as coating the inside of the cowl. As the engine is secondhand, perhaps a previous owner replaced the crankshaft bearings with non-Saito ones which were a bit slack on the shaft, or perhaps he didn't fit sealed bearings. Either or both of these acts would result in crankcase pressure blowing oil out of the front bearing housing.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 01/11/2017 19:14:22
|Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI|
Heck, this thread is becoming a mine of great info and nobody has begun building yet. A neater engine installation than anyone would have thought possible with a 4-stroke in that cowling, I love the spinner drawing, and the link to the alclad paints is most useful.
I'm just wondering how your car silver paint has survived Richard. When I sprayed my solartexed and clear doped 1/5th scale Tiger Moth fuselage with Halfords Ford Burgundy rattle can paint, the finish crazed all over quite quickly as the paint must have lacked a plasticiser. And this was on an electric-powered model without any engine vibration. The nice thing is that clubmates tell me that the tatty finish on the 17 year old model looks quite realistic.
Maybe the metallic spray can paints are plasticised these days as I remember when metallic car finishes started to become popular, typically on the early Silver Fox painted Ford Cortina Mk IIs, the factory sprayed paint used to flake off the bonnets within not too long a time, and a plasticiser would probably cure that.
Dennis' tank position is just indicated by a hole in F3! This looks to locate the tank so that in horizontal flight the carb spraybar is about 2/3 the way up the tank. Playing in CAD with the Dubro dimensions on the 1/6th drawing with the 120, it looks as if the spraybar on your 120 would be just lower than halfway up the tank with the fuz horizontal. So it sounds as if the 120 isn't critical on tank location. Happily, with the model on the ground it's stance is so nose-up that the likelihood of fuel syphoning out of a full tank through the carb whilst at rest should be slight.
Thanks again for the information, Richard. I'm not thinking about doing a Fury, but there are a couple of other golden age RAF silver bipes I'd like to do some day and all info is useful.
Another question Richard.
I've superimposed the side view of the Laser 120 over a 1/6th size Fury side view in CAD, and am now wondering what you did about fuel tank position relative to the Laser carb. Presumably the engine runs a treat, and it'd be helpful to know what make and size of tank you use in the model.
Unless you already have the OS, go on the laser website ( Laserengines.com ), download the dimensioned drawings. Then you'l be able to see how the OS is 23mm, almost an inch, taller than the Laser from crankshaft axis to the top of the valve cover. The rear valvegear of the Laser also contributes to it being much more "streamlined" than any of the front valvegear engines.
If you're serious about scaling up the plan, have a look at my Laser 155.
The 120 snuggles down well inside the Fury's sleek nose. Have you fitted a propshaft extension? There's a special prop nut that comes with Lasers which looks as if it's for use with a spacer behind the prop and I'm wondering if you used that.
Lovely views of a lovely model too.
|Thread: Friday the 13th|
got it wrong
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 13/10/2017 14:29:09
|Thread: Wots Wot XL|
Thanks for telling us the weight Tim. I'm just finishing a scratch-built Krier Great Lakes bipe (scaled up from the one in my avatar) of the same span and area as the Wot's Wot for a Laser 155 and your descriptions of your experiences with that engine regarding props, fuel burn and flying performance in that size bipe are extremely valuable. I was worried about the weight of my plane creeping up as it got closer to being finished, but it looks as if it'll max out at a bit less than 5.5kg (12lb to an ancient like me) and I'm now looking forward more than ever to getting the Laser performing in it. I still have to run the Laser and thought that the 16x8 I bought for it would be the right prop, but I now see that I will have to try 17x6 and 17x8 props too.
Thanks again for sharing your insights Tim
Hi Guys, can anyone tell me the weight of their WotsWot XL please? I've seen one post earlier in the thread quoting 15lb 8oz, admittedly with a 3lb wt 4-stroke, and wondered if that would be about in the ballpark for this model.
|Thread: Multiple servo quick connector|
I bought one of these connector kits and didn't realise until it had arrived that there are no shrouds, as on the JR and Futaba sockets to protect the pins on what we usually call the female socket. I'd have been happier to have received half the number of connectors, along with suitable shrouds. Is there a source for the shrouds or am I just being picky?
|Thread: Saito FG33 R3|
If you haven't done so already, maybe you can get some inspiration from youtube: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=saito+fg-33r3
The FG33 R3 owners on there seem to be having fun
|Thread: Telemetry - do you use it? What do you think of it?|
I have spekky telemetry on a couple of models; a big bipe weighing over 7kg, and a Nano Boomerang jet.
The reason for fitting it to the bipe is that our flying field is within the Manchester Airport control zone, and besides needing ATC permission to fly it because of its weight, the model is limited to flying below 400ft. So I set the altimeter warning to 375ft .... which isn't all that high and would be hard to judge by eye.
Even without voice readouts I find the telemetry very useful on the jet. Initially I added asi and altimeter for a bit of fun to see how fast the jet flew as it didn't seem all that fast. The answer came out as about 125mph on the straight and level. In a vertical full throttle dive it maxes at 150mph, both figures being checked after landing. So it is quite slow, but I don't mind as it's a very aerobatic model, and extreme speed is useless for aerobatics.
It's when landing the jet that the telemetry comes into its own. Even though the Wren 44 only has a small amount of residual thrust at idle (55000 rpm!) it's enough to prolong the glide in to land. As our grass strip is only 60m long I need to get the landing speed right so as to comfortably stop within its length - I haven't fitted wheel brakes. Setting the low airspeed warning to activate the tx vibrator at 38mph and below lets me know when the plane is slow enough on the glideslope to get down without floating the length of the strip. To help slow the jet, besides lowering flap I also use crow aileron, along with splaying the twin rudders outwards to create more drag, enabling a steeper approach to landing without increasing speed.
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