Here is a list of all the postings Gordon Whitehead 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: DB Se5-how much covering required|
Solartex is 26.5in wide. Your SE has a wing chord of 15in, so you'll only have a strip about 9.5in wide or less remaining after cutting for each wing panel. Both wings will consume at least 8.2m x 17in of material, leaving you with an 8.2m x 9.5in strip and a 1.8m x 26.5in piece to get the fuz and tail out of, which might be enough.
For my last 3 bipes, two of which had sunburst patterns which meant I had to be especially careful to avoid waste, I've always drawn a scale cutting plan in CAD. If you don't have CAD, you could draw a rectangle 1/12th the size of the 10m solartex sheet. Then trace a 1/48th scale SE drawing onto some sort of tracing paper, greaseproof would do, cut out some shapes for wings, fuz and tail and position them on the solartex rectangle for least waste.
If you don't feel like doing this just get one 10m roll (£80 - ish) and hack away. Then guesstimate the size of your second but shorter roll for the bits which you couldn't cover and buy that later.
|Thread: Laser 62|
Ref plug connectors for the early sloping-plug Lasers, one recommendation was to use a dress snap. I've used them in the past for a cowled installation with remote glow connector and they do work and stay clipped on.
|Thread: Fokker EIII Scratch build|
Back in about 1952 a chap published an idea in "Model Aircraft" for a way to get a free flight model to do aerobatics. He used an airdraulic timer pulling a shaped cam on which arms from the rudder and elevator rode. As the shaft of the timer pulled in as normal, it pulled the cam, the controls moved appropriately, and the plane allegedly did a loop, or barrel roll according to the shaping of the cam.
Perhaps you could use a similar system to work your EIII's rudder and elevator from separate servos. It could even work for your wing drive.
Here's a sketch:
It might be worth a bench-top experiment
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Thanks Steve. The 20-24oz top tank is a better idea, and with all the extra power and thrust the additional fuel weight won't be a problem. I was only thinking of 16oz and 8oz tanks as I already have them.
I now intend making a start on the 300 installation in the near future. It's already been in the Jungie during my experiments on petrolizing it a while back so the mounting system is ready to install.
Ref the chicken hopper tank, thanks very much for your clear diagram and explanation Steve.
I turned the diagram upside down to check what would happen under negative "g" in an aerobat, eg my Jungmeister - not a normal Spitfire orientation. Fuel would drain back from the small tank to the large one though the air release line, the greater the "g", the faster the draining. It would take a very prolonged period of -ve "g" to empty even a 4oz tank so there's probably not much to worry about. However, it struck me that one could install a Kavan one-way valve in the air release line to minimise drain back.
I have been thinking of trying a hopper tank system in my Jungmeister, as there's only room for a small tank in the lower fuz which is fine for the currently installed Saito 36-FG which will run for half an hour on 10oz of petrol. However, I want to replace the Saito with my Laser 300 running on glow for about 30% more power, and mounted inverted. This will need about 24oz of juice for sufficient duration per Laser recommendation. A 16oz main tank and 8oz twin clunk lower tank arranged per Steve's diagram will fill the bill, and I already have a Kavan one-way valve to try in the air release line if it proves necessary.
|Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale|
Here goes. I've replaced the original drawing with a clearer one:
This view shows the tube and wire construction. The wire and tube will have to go up a size for a 1/4 scale model, as my 1/5th scale Tiggie weighs only 9lb including 5S 5000 drive battery. Aileron servo is in the gap behind u/c assembly.
The Stampe's u/c isn't vastly different, as can be seen here.
Here's the finished job. What's missing on my model is the rear diagonal brace from centre "hinge" assembly to fuselage longeron, not fitted because there was no simple way to fit it and retain the detachable hatch between the lower wings.
Simple balsa fairing on upper leg tube.
Looks OK at a distance.
Here are pics of the same style u/c on my 17.5lb Jungmeister with some assembly detail.
The split axle is 6swg wire.
Bending the 6swg piano wire dummy split axle assembly.
Showing first stage of binding. Connecting up wire for illustration, but steel control line wire used for real. Wire is doubled back along length to be bound.
Then end is wound round to bind tightly.
Then the loose end is passed through the loop.
and pulled through between binding and u/c wires.
Loose ends snipped off, u/c then jigged for soldering.
Final soldered joint.
Bottom hinge between sprung leg and axle.
Even the 6swg wire proved to be a bit flexible along its length. This allowed the axles to flex so the wheels wobbled on landing. The cure was to bind and solder, behind the original wire, a piece of 6swg wire the full length between the centre "hinge" and the bottom hinge, on each side to stiffen the assembly. The wheels now track straight with no wobble.
Hope this helps those without access to machining facilities.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 16/12/2017 21:57:21
|Thread: Powered by Laser, a gallery thread|
Here's my first Laser-powered model, a fun-scale Krier Kraft Acromaster which I designed and built in 1991 especially for an early Laser 75. 55in span, 7lb weight. Light and very aerobatic on straight juice, I loved it and a Laser 80 would be ideal these days. My plans from RCM are on Outerzone, and I'm thinking of doing what I did with my Great Lakes seen earlier, and downloading the drawings and scaling them up in Foxit for another Laser 155, or maybe even a 160v.
Clear doped Solartex with sprayed cellulose finish.
All-wood structure. Sprung u/c as per full size, which used a Piper Cub u/c assembly.
Low inverted over the Eden Valley when I lived in Penrith, Cumbria. Lovely location nestling between the Lake District and the Pennines.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 16/12/2017 20:29:16
Another of my obsessions, the Bucker Jungmeister. Scratch built from my plans, 27.5% scale, 71in span, weighs around 17.5lb. Shown flying with a Laser 300 which I petrolized using the original Laser carbs, twin Runtronic ignition units one per cylinder, a Perry petrol oscillating pump, and a Cline regulator on each carb.
Will climb vertically for ever with bags of pure smooth Laser power!
My new Krier Great Lakes Special. 65in span, 11lb auw, Laser 155 engine. HK white and Monokote red film covering.
I have an obsession with Krier's bipes
|Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale|
I think have pics on another laptop and if not I can soon shoot some. I'll sort them out and start another thread to avoid spamming Cymaz's thread. I've used this basic idea on 3 models now.
I made this quick sprung u/c for my 1/5th scale Tiger Moth which is now about 17 years old. If you felt like making your own Stampe u/c this only needs piano wire and nesting brass tube, obviously of larger gauges for 1/4 scale. It's a low tech assembly - the wire can be bent using a bench vice and hammer. The centre pivot area of the split axle is simply bound with control line wire and the springing is via both the springs and flexing of the split axle wire.
|Thread: Small Turnbuckles|
Here are the forum instructions for posting links, Bert:
|Thread: Cutting Narrow Strips with Proxxon FET Table Saw|
Both blade height and tilt are adjustable on my FET saw. I'm happier using the blade guard, which also helps to control the spread of sawdust.
Before I bought my Proxxon I researched online how to use a circular saw, and noted that the correct blade height made for cleaner cuts. So that's why I bought the variable blade height machine.
Having bought a Proxxon FET table saw, the expensive one, the first thing I noticed was that if you wish to produce strips which are narrower than 1/4in, the blade guard has to ride on top of the fence. This means that if you're cutting 3/16in wide strips from a plank which is only, say, 1/8in thick, the saw blade has to be positioned much too high as you have to raise the blade guard high enough to rest on top of the fence, and the blade teeth then chop down onto the wood causing a rough cut.
Recently I wanted to cut some 1/4 x 3/32in strips from a sheet of 3/32 x 3 x 36in spruce, and to slim down some 1/4in sq spruce to 1/4 x 3/16in. This resulted in the blade guard interfering with the fence rather than resting on top and the saw blade chewed into the guard.
So I decided to do something about it and modified the fence as can be seen in the pics. Basically I added a shallow and wide fence extension to the existing fence.
The mod comprises a length of 1in aluminium angle screwed to the fence. A strip of 3/16 x 1/2in spruce evo-stuk in place provides the necessary extra thickness so that the piece being cut doesn't ride up onto the aluminium angle. The combined wood and aluminium angle was run through the saw using the original fence a guide to true it to a uniform width. After that the new fence extension was screwed to the main fence permanently.
Following the mod I was able to successfully reduce 3/16in sq spruce to 3/16 x 1/8in for my latest model. I have a collection of large x-section spruce strip bought when I thought I'd like to build large scale models. Well I still build small ones so bought the Proxxon so that I could slim down this wood.
The blade I use is the fine tooth one which provides a very smooth cut.
1. General view showing modification.
2. Close-up of modded fence.
3. Rear view of modded fence, washers stop screws passing through slots.
4. Stripping narrow strip with blade guard safely riding on item being cut.
Hope that some of you find this mod useful.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 08/12/2017 22:43:07
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Thanks for the kind comments guys and it's splendid to see such a great collection of even more bipes
It's over 6 years since I last built a plane and boy did it take some getting back into. The workshop was a permanent tip and I kept having to hunt down tools and materials that somehow hid themselves as soon as I'd put 'em down. So to make sure I don't forget how again, I'm gonna start my next build pretty darned soon and get properly organised!
My new Krier Great Lakes for Laser 155 power. 65in span, 11lb auw. Scaled up from my own original 47in span magazine plan (seen in my avatar) which I downloaded from Outerzone and scaled to 65in span and tile printed using the free Foxit pdf reader available on the internet.
Standard balsa/ply/spruce covered in HK white film with red Monokote sunburst, cheat lines and checks. Cowl has balsa front ring with cardboard skirt, epoxy-glassed inside and out.
The oleos are sprung, the upper fairing made from litho plate.
The Laser 155 is angled to raise the carb to a more favourable height in relation to the fuel tank. The aluminium spinner is a Just Engines item.
For ease of carrying about I made a carrying handle which screws to the cabane using the wing bolts, and which stores the interplane struts and inter-aileron link rods.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 07/12/2017 14:40:48
|Thread: Who has what engine in their Precedent Stampes|
Thanks for the weights guys. Very instructive. I'm guessing that there isn't much spruce and ply in the model. It now seems to me that I've been using too much of both in my own design bipes
BTW, what weights are these various large Stampes coming out at? I think the box tops say about 14lb but I find that hard to believe with the size of the model.
Is that your 180 petrol prototype Jon? If so, almost up with the OS GF40 and my Saito FG-36 petrols.
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