Here is a list of all the postings Gordon Whitehead 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A Very Neat Bit of Flying!|
When you've clicked the link, do a right click and translate to English. A pretty good account about a very brave WW1 pilot.
|Thread: which is cheaper,IC or ELECTRIC?|
|Thread: New Sopwith Pup from DBSportandScale|
The Pup-E motor-battery installation looks to have some merit.
However, the 60in span of the new version gives it 9 sq ft area so it could readily support the weight of a 5S 5000 setup and come in at rather less than 9lb for only 16oz/sq ft loading. Consequently it's to be hoped that the battery tray isn't going to be limited in size to accommodating only a 4S setup. The 5S will allow a lower current for the same power, longer flights, and less strain on the battery chemistry.
I'll be interested to see the wing mounting arrangement. I rarely go out flying for more than 3 hours, so fast assembly and dismantling is of the essence. After admiring Ian Redshaw's lovely 1/3rd scale Pup at the recent Ashbourne scale fly-in, an E-powered Pup has been whizzing about in my mind as a possibility for my next 5S lipo-powered model but one or two and this one might be a good candidate.
|Thread: which is cheaper,IC or ELECTRIC?|
That would be at least 25 hours, ie one day charging per week per lipo.
What make, size and C-rating are your lipos Percy?
I find that these days lipos puff depressingly early in their lives, making me wonder just what the life of a lipo is in terms of number of safe charges (ie charges that won't blow 'em up) before I need to worry about the extent of puffing. I have six well-puffed Zippy Compact 5S 5000 25C lipos that are just 2 years old. Each has 17 logged charges. The lipos are always stored at storage charge, and I know how many flights I've had from a lipo because I mark each full re-charge from storage on a stick-on label. Each label has the date of purchase and price, too. Discharge is never more than 50A, ie 2C according to the 5C claim. I always charge at 1C too. My Giles IR meter tells me the actual C-ratings are 18, so discharge is still not too excessive at 2.8C.
That's £240 spent on lipos so far for 102 flights between 2 models. And the lipos are puffed about 3mm per side. Luckily the models I fly them in can accommodate the swelling easily, The motor is a Hacker A50-14S (£130), and esc Hacker X70 SB pro (£89)
I don't mind spending the money for good quality hardware (eg the Hacker stuff) as it lasts for many years when operated within specs. I have Actro, Kontronik and Schulze escs that are over 15 years old for instance from when I was really heavy into electric flight. But I am wary of spending big bucks on "quality" lipos when I've had Thunderpower lipos puff when far too young.
Basically I don't care which is cheaper; electric or i/c or turbine It's a lifestyle thing really and you just have to spend within your means. I have to wonder if the twice as expensive Overlander 5S 5000 35C lipos would better survive what I think is a very benign operating environment in my models. I'm still using the puffed Zippy's, and whilst flight performance is still all I want, I'm not happy with their puffed state. I think I will try the Overlanders next.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 04/12/2018 15:25:45
|Thread: Is it possible to create a tiled print out from a pdf file?|
In Foxit the full tiled layout can be displayed on the screen. You can choose the amount of overlap you want, and registration marks are printed. You can choose portrait or landscape for the sheets to decide which uses less sheets. You can print just the tiles you want. Also you can print just the bit you want by increasing screen scale to display just that section of the drawing which you want to print and clicking print screen (or some such - memory's hazy).
To use the measurement feature you click on comment, then on distance, area etc and pick the scale using the insertion boxes.
When printing an enlargement you need to calculate the % increase and enter it before printing ... every time as it doesn't remember the last scale entered. If you want a 15% plan enlargement, the print scale is entered as 115%. The screen enlargement scale is not what's printed, btw.
It's a year since I used it to produce a tiled print of a 65in span Krier Great Lakes bipe drawing from my original 47in span drawing which is a .pdf on Outerzone. My memory's now a bit hazy, but my free Foxit download v8.0 from a couple of years ago is very versatile and much more so than Acrobat was when I first downloaded Foxit. I hope they haven't "done a Windows 10" and updated it so that it doesn't work as well as my copy any more. Still, it's free so worth a try. You'll need to experiment to find the features I've described.
Hi Erf, the program I use for what you want to do is the free Foxit pdf reader download: Foxit pdf reader
It's very versatile. Not only can you tile print, but you can re-scale your plan at the time you print it. I've used it to scale up and tile print a pdf plan I downloaded from Outerzone, and also printed out the Laser engines dimensioned pdf drawings to the correct size. The "comment" button brings up a number of tools, one of which is measuring on screen. Using the measuring function enables you to work out the scale factor you want if necessary.
Another function it'll do is convert other types of file, eg .jpeg etc to .pdf, which you can then process in Foxit.
It takes a bit of experimentation to use it, but it's worth it in the end.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 23/11/2018 19:00:14
|Thread: Solartex alternative?|
Thanks Dave, I have a good root around on RCG!
Looking on Ebay, laminating film comes in many different thicknesses, widths and lengths, and a roll can cost quite a lot, even if it's cheap per sq yard.
What's a good thickness and width to buy for starters?
Is the dope used non-shrinking, or shrinking, and where can it be bought by the gallon? I've had cellulose thinners from Ebay before, in fact cellulose is my favourite paint.
(EDIT - sorry, I didn't see the pic on the previous post!)
Does the dope adhere completely to the laminating film or does it peel off under some circumstances?
Presumably the laminating film's adhesive is heat-activated like that of the modelling films. Can it be made to pull round compound curves, eg a rounded block balsa wing tip, with heat without wrinkling, and then does the overlap adhere well enough so that it doesn't peel off later?
Obviously there's a technique to be learned and I'm wondering if there's a thread or blog somewhere with useful hints.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 21/11/2018 17:32:28
Edit no 2. It's probably worth using aircraft cellulose as it'll be plasticised. I've found that coloured car celluose can craze when used on, say, solartex and make your model look very aged!
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 21/11/2018 17:38:08
|Thread: they are still at it.(PayPal).|
Following a problem with my Paypal account a month or so ago I cancelled the account. No money was lost, luckily. I waited a couple of weeks, then opened another PP account so that I could sell some items using Paypal. What I didn't expect is that despite having been using Paypal for many years, I was treated like a brand new Paypal user. This meant that the funds I received from the buyers of my items would be held by Paypal for three weeks and unavailable to me until they were satisfied that there were no transaction problems.
Naturally I wasn't best pleased as the sums were quite substantial. Also annoying was that this restriction would be applied to my "first" 10 sales as a "newby" PP-er, even though I wasn't really a newby to PP at all.
Then I looked into the situation more closely, and I found that provided I entered a tracking number the money would be released in 24 hours once a tracked item had arrived at its destination.
That's what happened and I'm now a happy bunny. Naturally I have no objection in principle regarding PP's anti-scam precautions as no doubt many folks over the years have been suckered into buying items from fraudulent sellers. But it was a bit of a shock as I had no inkling that these measures had been introduced since I first joined PP. Maybe I should start reading those account change notices they send us from time to time!
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 26/10/2018 20:04:45
|Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI|
Hi Danny and Martyn, thanks for sharing your outstanding compilations of Fury detail shots. They show just how complex these between wars warbirds really are, and do full justice to the many thousands of manhours that must have gone into the drafting and detail design. One thing that tickled me was the device used to stop the u/c cross-bracing wires from rubbing against each other. What looks like a leather cuff is wrapped round the middle of the rear wire and secured by clamps. Not only that, the wires are airfoil x-section along all their length except for where they cross in the middle, where they're moulded to a circular cross-section, presumably because otherwise the sharper edges of flat wires would have cut into each other due to vibration.
I was also astounded at Danny's flying shots of the P-38 Lightning. The clarity and focus are so exact that in the ones where it's doing a left-to-right banked fly-by, you can pretty well discern the pilot's facial features. That's some camera, operated by a very expert photographer!
Going through these pics made my day. Thanks guys!
Hi Stuart. Re bending, cap strips are best pre-bent to match the curve of the rib. To do this, lay the cap strip on your bench, lightly press down on it with a pen barrel or some other smooth rod about 3/8in to 1/2in diameter, and pull the cap strip through, lifting the pulled end at the same time. Repeat as necessary until the curve matches the aerofoil shape. Practice on a spare length of strip until you can do it without breaking the strip. The pre-curved strip will usually attach OK with PVA and a pin at each end.
I don't know if this link was posted earlier on this thread but even if it was, it's worth posting again for the sheer elegance of the manoeuvres, never mind the looks
PS ... ignore the commentary, though it's a shame to blank out the gorgeous RR Kestrel engine sound
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 04/10/2018 22:15:42
|Thread: Fuel proofer for petrol?|
The Aerokote was new and applied last winter, replete with brush marks. Also, a second coat following a touch-up after an "arrival" crinkled the original finish I won't use the stuff ever again. I wish now that I'd used finishing resin.
I fuel proof engine bays with epoxy. For the rest of the airframe, cellulose is petrol-proof, and also paraffin proof for jets. I find that it's the easiest paint finish to spray and I like its quick-drying property. However, on a fabric surface, car cellulose will need plasticising other wise the finish can craze with the vibration that the fabric suffers in the airstream. I've never had proper aeromodelling cellulose craze, eg HMG dope.
After a recent horrible experience fuel-proofing a model by brushing on Aerokote which set as fast as it was brushed on and then wasn't totally fuel proof, I'm giving up on glows.
|Thread: Security of Model Shop Websites|
The message I got was an on-screen message headed by a Paypal logo, and not an email sent to my inbox. It wasn't a pop-up as such, but just the plain screen with the message imprinted across the middle of it with a button to press in a similar layout to the normal sign-in screen.
Unfortunately neither of the PP agents I spoke with said that the screen I got was a PP message and I was too stupid to ask.
I'm still giving it a day or so before I open a new PP account as I'm not in a rush to buy anything at present.
As Nigel said, there is legal protection available with credit cards, though happily I've never had to test it. I have had money refunded via PP and Ebay when a purchase didn't arrive, so I'm happy to report that the Ebay refund system works.
My apologies Martin, but I forgot to mention that before contacting Paypal, I did try opening a new Paypal session from their secure website - two or three times - and always got the same announcement. Paypal recommend trying a different computer in these sort of happenings to see if it's the original computer at fault. So I tried my wife's laptop with the same result. Very tiresome as you can imagine.
Getting through to a PP operator by phone was a protracted business the first time. Having phoned up, you answer some basic automated questions and then are given the option of having them call you back, or hang on, in my case for 20 minutes. I chose to hang on and listen to the music because we get more than enough spam phone calls, and after the repetitious procedure I've just described I wasn't in the mood to trust the next call to be genuinely from Paypal. In a similar vein, if I get a call from my bank, I always ring back rather than carrying on to ensure that I'm talking to who I should be.
FWIW The way I deal with spam calls is to look at caller display and if the caller's name isn't given, it's from a number I don't have stored on the phone. Whereupon I wait for the answerphone to reply to the call. If the caller hangs up, it most likely wasn't a genuine call. But if the caller, which includes the hospital or medical centre, begins to leave a message, I answer. Spam calls while we're out leaves the number on the phone's display, but no message. Genuine callers leave a message and I call back. Well, that's how it works for me.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 02/10/2018 14:50:46
ED you were editing while I was replying. Like you I try to use PP for everything, and I've never had PP problems before this one.
It looked like a phishing message to me too, which is why I called PP rather than clicking on the "Next" button. The address bar still had the full Paypal address. The laptop I'm using is a chromebook which uses google to do the scanning.
You two sound a bit more complacent about such occurrences than I am.
I've just had to shut down my Paypal account in order to open a new one that's uncompromised.
It started with me attempting to order stuff from a well-known model shop dealing in top of the range ARTFs. Having gone to checkout and selected Paypal as the method of payment, I signed in to Paypal. Instead of opening my account, the following message came up:
"Paypal is looking out for you. We've noticed some unusual activity and need your help to secure your account. Click NEXT to confirm your identity and change your password."
Thinking that this might be the result of a hacker I immediately deleted my order from the shop's basket. Then I went back through old Paypal email receipts which wouldn't have been compromised, and found their contact number. I eventually got through to PP's security dept and was guided through setting up a new password and identity questions. Then I was able to open my PP account and check it. All was OK, and I also checked that the accounts I use to pay PP bills were untouched.
However, this morning I attempted to log in to PP and got a repeat of the "PP is looking out for you ...etc " message. Although I'd been able to access the account immediately after changing my password etc, a couple of days later I was locked out again. So once again I checked my bank and credit card accounts (they were again untouched) and called PP security; the lady told me that there had been some suspicious activity and asked me if I'd ever had an address at one of three towns she listed. It could not have been coincidental that the model shop resided in one of the towns, and the other two were within 15 miles of it. It seems to me that the model shop's website must have been hacked and I will phone the shop to advise them of my suspicion when they get back from holiday.
So I got the lady to cancel my PP account, which also cancels any recurring payment agreements on the account, eg with ebay, pocketmags etc.
Looking at the subject model shop's website, I see that it is not secure. ie no https:// in the internet address line - which there is on the modelflying forum page you're looking at.
Checking the websites of some PP transactions I had made a few days earlier, they did have the https:// prefix so it seems to me (though I might be mistaken as I'm not an internet security expert) that their websites were not the ones causing my logging-in problem.
I'm now considering whether I should place future online orders with model shops that don't use https:// encryption, and just phone in with my credit card no.
Let the online buyer beware!
|Thread: Outrunner Magnets Decomposing to Dust|
Thanks for your inputs guys. I feel a little bit better knowing it's not an isolated problem. I agree with PatMc regarding the poor look of the windings, and thanks for the wiki extract too. I've noticed that small sintered magnets can crumble when used for holding large hatches on i/c models, which I assume is caused by vibration making the opposing magnets jitter against each other.
Oh well. After seeing clubmates enjoying their Easy Streets with Ripmax Quantum II motors which are quite cheap, I'm thinking of getting my LMS to get the 25-size motor for me to to try.
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