Here is a list of all the postings Gordon Whitehead 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI|
Hi Stuart. Re bending, cap strips are best pre-bent to match the curve of the rib. To do this, lay the cap strip on your bench, lightly press down on it with a pen barrel or some other smooth rod about 3/8in to 1/2in diameter, and pull the cap strip through, lifting the pulled end at the same time. Repeat as necessary until the curve matches the aerofoil shape. Practice on a spare length of strip until you can do it without breaking the strip. The pre-curved strip will usually attach OK with PVA and a pin at each end.
I don't know if this link was posted earlier on this thread but even if it was, it's worth posting again for the sheer elegance of the manoeuvres, never mind the looks
PS ... ignore the commentary, though it's a shame to blank out the gorgeous RR Kestrel engine sound
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 04/10/2018 22:15:42
|Thread: Fuel proofer for petrol?|
The Aerokote was new and applied last winter, replete with brush marks. Also, a second coat following a touch-up after an "arrival" crinkled the original finish I won't use the stuff ever again. I wish now that I'd used finishing resin.
I fuel proof engine bays with epoxy. For the rest of the airframe, cellulose is petrol-proof, and also paraffin proof for jets. I find that it's the easiest paint finish to spray and I like its quick-drying property. However, on a fabric surface, car cellulose will need plasticising other wise the finish can craze with the vibration that the fabric suffers in the airstream. I've never had proper aeromodelling cellulose craze, eg HMG dope.
After a recent horrible experience fuel-proofing a model by brushing on Aerokote which set as fast as it was brushed on and then wasn't totally fuel proof, I'm giving up on glows.
|Thread: Security of Model Shop Websites|
The message I got was an on-screen message headed by a Paypal logo, and not an email sent to my inbox. It wasn't a pop-up as such, but just the plain screen with the message imprinted across the middle of it with a button to press in a similar layout to the normal sign-in screen.
Unfortunately neither of the PP agents I spoke with said that the screen I got was a PP message and I was too stupid to ask.
I'm still giving it a day or so before I open a new PP account as I'm not in a rush to buy anything at present.
As Nigel said, there is legal protection available with credit cards, though happily I've never had to test it. I have had money refunded via PP and Ebay when a purchase didn't arrive, so I'm happy to report that the Ebay refund system works.
My apologies Martin, but I forgot to mention that before contacting Paypal, I did try opening a new Paypal session from their secure website - two or three times - and always got the same announcement. Paypal recommend trying a different computer in these sort of happenings to see if it's the original computer at fault. So I tried my wife's laptop with the same result. Very tiresome as you can imagine.
Getting through to a PP operator by phone was a protracted business the first time. Having phoned up, you answer some basic automated questions and then are given the option of having them call you back, or hang on, in my case for 20 minutes. I chose to hang on and listen to the music because we get more than enough spam phone calls, and after the repetitious procedure I've just described I wasn't in the mood to trust the next call to be genuinely from Paypal. In a similar vein, if I get a call from my bank, I always ring back rather than carrying on to ensure that I'm talking to who I should be.
FWIW The way I deal with spam calls is to look at caller display and if the caller's name isn't given, it's from a number I don't have stored on the phone. Whereupon I wait for the answerphone to reply to the call. If the caller hangs up, it most likely wasn't a genuine call. But if the caller, which includes the hospital or medical centre, begins to leave a message, I answer. Spam calls while we're out leaves the number on the phone's display, but no message. Genuine callers leave a message and I call back. Well, that's how it works for me.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 02/10/2018 14:50:46
ED you were editing while I was replying. Like you I try to use PP for everything, and I've never had PP problems before this one.
It looked like a phishing message to me too, which is why I called PP rather than clicking on the "Next" button. The address bar still had the full Paypal address. The laptop I'm using is a chromebook which uses google to do the scanning.
You two sound a bit more complacent about such occurrences than I am.
I've just had to shut down my Paypal account in order to open a new one that's uncompromised.
It started with me attempting to order stuff from a well-known model shop dealing in top of the range ARTFs. Having gone to checkout and selected Paypal as the method of payment, I signed in to Paypal. Instead of opening my account, the following message came up:
"Paypal is looking out for you. We've noticed some unusual activity and need your help to secure your account. Click NEXT to confirm your identity and change your password."
Thinking that this might be the result of a hacker I immediately deleted my order from the shop's basket. Then I went back through old Paypal email receipts which wouldn't have been compromised, and found their contact number. I eventually got through to PP's security dept and was guided through setting up a new password and identity questions. Then I was able to open my PP account and check it. All was OK, and I also checked that the accounts I use to pay PP bills were untouched.
However, this morning I attempted to log in to PP and got a repeat of the "PP is looking out for you ...etc " message. Although I'd been able to access the account immediately after changing my password etc, a couple of days later I was locked out again. So once again I checked my bank and credit card accounts (they were again untouched) and called PP security; the lady told me that there had been some suspicious activity and asked me if I'd ever had an address at one of three towns she listed. It could not have been coincidental that the model shop resided in one of the towns, and the other two were within 15 miles of it. It seems to me that the model shop's website must have been hacked and I will phone the shop to advise them of my suspicion when they get back from holiday.
So I got the lady to cancel my PP account, which also cancels any recurring payment agreements on the account, eg with ebay, pocketmags etc.
Looking at the subject model shop's website, I see that it is not secure. ie no https:// in the internet address line - which there is on the modelflying forum page you're looking at.
Checking the websites of some PP transactions I had made a few days earlier, they did have the https:// prefix so it seems to me (though I might be mistaken as I'm not an internet security expert) that their websites were not the ones causing my logging-in problem.
I'm now considering whether I should place future online orders with model shops that don't use https:// encryption, and just phone in with my credit card no.
Let the online buyer beware!
|Thread: Outrunner Magnets Decomposing to Dust|
Thanks for your inputs guys. I feel a little bit better knowing it's not an isolated problem. I agree with PatMc regarding the poor look of the windings, and thanks for the wiki extract too. I've noticed that small sintered magnets can crumble when used for holding large hatches on i/c models, which I assume is caused by vibration making the opposing magnets jitter against each other.
Oh well. After seeing clubmates enjoying their Easy Streets with Ripmax Quantum II motors which are quite cheap, I'm thinking of getting my LMS to get the 25-size motor for me to to try.
The magnets are flaking and pitting Chris and David. The only hydrogen they'd have ever been near is that chemically bound in the water vapour in the damp flying conditions we often have to suffer in this country. I'm wondering if the magnets are made from powdered magnetic alloy bound with some kind of glue which is degrading with age. The epoxy fillets which you can see securing the magnets is araldite which I used many moons ago when re-installing detached magnets, and that has stayed whole. The motor wasn't particularly powerful but the current Aeronaut advert has it at a breathtaking 129 euro. I remember it did cost an arm and a leg when I bought it but nowhere near that. Perhaps the current limit was dictated by the magnets' composition.
The magnets in my equally old AXI 4130/16 of about the same age and stored in the same box are still whole, thank goodness, as are those in a couple of old Hacker A50s I regularly use.
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 20/09/2018 21:22:26
During the past week I've been working up the enthusiasm to design a nice 3S-powered Hawker Fury. Today I took the intended motor, an Actro C-6 1150kv outrunner, out of storage to check it out. I was a bit nonplussed to find that on fitting the prop this carefully stored motor felt really stiff when I turned it by hand. Rather than apply power, I took the motor apart and the photo show what the innards look like.
The motor is well over 10 years old and has sat in a warm drawer in my workshop for at least the past 10 years. I do remember having to re-araldite some of the magnets back in place when the motor was only a month or so old, but haven't seen anything like this before. Applying sellotape doesn't remove hardly any of the magnetic dust, btw.
Clearly I need a new motor. The Actro was only good for 30A so I'm planning to buy a replacement with rather more current handling capability.
|Thread: Home made exhaust for petrols....|
Checking the volumes of the various Krumscheid silencers for large petrol engines here they are all in the range 14 to 16 times the capacity of the engines to be silenced. This, then, is probably a decent guide as to how big to make a home-made silencer for a given 2-stroke single.
|Thread: Ashbourne Scale Day|
Me too, Chris!
|Thread: Servos that swing both ways!|
I had the Fleet version. I swapped the linear outputs for rotary, not realising that there were no end stops and the rotary output arms could go a full 360 degrees. So if (or in the case of my Fleet radio, when) you lost the signal, the servo would rotate right round until pulled up by the pushrod. This happened one day at height with my lovely HB 61 powered Mick Reeves Fournier, when the servos all went to one end, the elevator being stuck on down. Naturally the plane was a write-off.
If one does wish to use a rotary output on this type of servo, the safe thing to do is cut off the lugs from the linear output racks so that they don't interfere with the output arms, and re-install the racks to act as end-stops. Then if the Rx loses the signal briefly, at least the servos have a chance of returning to normal service when the signal is resumed.
|Thread: Cornwall Aviation Co Ltd Avro 504k Aerobatics and Wing Walking|
Hi Tom, simply copy and paste the url I quoted into your address bar and press enter. I hope this works for you. Or does that not work on a mobile or tablet?
Actually I've just found the link instructions. Hang on while I try !
I'll just check that it works
Yup! it does!
Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 05/08/2018 22:02:21
On this evening's Antiques Road Show the grandson of the founder of the Cornwall Aviation Co Ltd, Capt P Phillips, showed some memorabilia and described the background to the company. Intrigued, I googled the company and found this fabulous cine film which I though you all might like to view.
|Thread: Laser 180 Petrol|
If you mean can the carb assembly be rotated so that the needle points out sideways wrt the cylinder, as on the Saito 180 FS and ASP 180 FS, it's possible that the throttle arm/slow running screw assembly will interfere with the silencer to prevent a full 90deg rotation. If a flex tube exhaust is used, then in the absence of the silencer body I suspect that the carb assy will readily achieve the full 90deg rotation.
Anyone with a spare Laser laying around could check that for you. Mine is in a cowled installation so I can't help you with that.
GA25? Isn't that the petrol version of the 155, and not the 180? If so, goody!!!
|Thread: New Drone Laws from 30/5/2018|
I was thinking more of the impact of a shot-down drone on striking something, be that a car driver's windscreen, baby in a pram, kids playing football, a prison inmate walking round the yard unaware of the drone smuggling going on at the time. There would be lots of scope for media hype in such a situation, hence the requirement for carefully devised procedures and systems.
How would you have dealt with the V1 and the Scud any differently than they were defended against at the time? The falling destroyed missile debris would always risk causing harm to someone or something, but the missiles' destruction would usually have been required to protect the intended target.
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