Here is a list of all the postings NormB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: aliphatic glue|
Here's an interesting link about heat re-activating PVA / aliphatic glues. It's a loudspeaker building post but it gives re-activation times for FRANKLIN's Titebond glues (available in UK, I use them )
This seems to reinforce the ideas that Balsaloc etc are ordinary PVAs (with maybe some additive - they smell a bit different.)
|Thread: Electric Cars.|
Well I'll say it before someone else does - "will the Dyson car be self-cleaning then?"
|Thread: Toe-in or toe-out?|
**LINK** gives good reason why toe-out is needed on full-size taildraggers.
Seems convincing to me...
|Thread: Covering iron|
I've had the Coverite one for some time - it's 110 volt ( US ) so if you get one, you'll need a cheap UK to US transformer. A few pounds only. Don't know if the quilt irons will operate at the right temperatures - worth checking this before you buy. Delivery from the US took a couple of weeks; didn't pay anything extra duty etc. at the time.
|Thread: Alternative to dope on Sig Koverall|
I've used Ronseal water-based (I had some already - Wilko's is just as good). Also used it on Koverall on a cowl instead of fibreglass (hadn't got any to hand). Lots of coats needed to fill the weave, but results are smooth and tough.
|Thread: cutting a notch in tiny ribs|
I'd go with Pier's suggestion - this 'egg box' arrangement for spars and ribs is very common to Pat Tritle's lightweight designs, some around 60 inches span. You can stack and wrap with masking tape for the slot cutting.
|Thread: Model coverings|
When using Litespan or Fibafilm, I use the method suggested by Peter Rake:
tape the panel to a flat surface, shiny side down, apply a thin coat of BalsaLoc or equivalent to the whole surface using a sponge brush or similar. I usually apply a little thinned adhesive to the frame in a few key areas as well to make sure. Allow to dry and iron on like a 'normal' film covering..The added weight of 'unused' adhesive is very small, IMO negligible .
Litespan and Fibafilm , being based on a synthetic tissue, won't stretch around compound curves like for example Solarfilm ( Well, I can't get them to anyway )
Get yourself a Coverite iron thermometer too - doesn't cost much and it'll save you overheating the film during shrinking and so minimise slackening problems later.
|Thread: Finding 3-view and scale dwgs|
**LINK** has a range of free books in PDF by Paul Matt and Best of William A. Wylam series. Excellent drawings, many with dimensions.
There' s Bob Banka's site **LINK** as well. (USA and not free download )
***LINK** is an interesting free Czech site...
|Thread: TurboCAD v20 at Maplins|
Phil9 : You can get an 'educational' version from AutoDesk, but since I may use CAD in connection with my daughter's business I'l pay the tenner and feel comfortable using it for profit.
Shep: thanks for that, presumably you upgraded OS to Windows 10 . I've done that on another PC and had no problems with already installed programs. Sometimes those won't install on a fresh windows 10 build...
For those who've retained Windows 7 or 8, Maplins are offering TurboCAD version 20 Deluxe cheap at £9.99. It's the CAD program Peter Rake uses I believe...
Just got a copy, there appears to be a full learning programme on the disc too.
Keep me busy for a while in those dark winter evenings !
|Thread: Magazines gone under|
I e-mailed PocketMags earlier this week regarding rumours of ADH's failure and subscriptions still being offered. It took a few days to get a response . I particularly mention FSM and Aeromodeller; response:
"... I'm not sure where you came across such rumours, but we've not heard anything to corroborate those here at Pocketmags. I know a few of their foreign-language titles have been discontinued recently, but that's fairly standard in the industry. "
From the Companies Court Winding Up List, Cause list Monday, 3 October 2016 we have entry
18. CR-2016-002733 ADH Publishing Limited
I 'll play safe and NOT renew my subscription to FSM until the situation clarifies. Hoping for the best for the mag's future...
FSM featured a lot of good electric designs from Peter Rake and build articles to go with them. Glad I didn't rush to renew my digital only subscription through PocketMags !.
I've gone digital for the past 2 years in an attempt to cut down on paper, but to be honest it's not really as satisfying as the mag coming through the letterbox... It would be a shame to lose FSM altogether but maybe it's a bit too much of a niche publication?
|Thread: Supporting wires|
To make servo wire tubes, I've used gummed brown paper strip. Comes on a roll, about 50 mm wide. Find a piece of dowel or similar as a former, wrap with a strip of cling film. Wind the tape sticky (shiny) side OUT with a 5 mm or so overlap. Keep it tight with masking tape at both ends. Get a small brush and run a little water over the join - just enough to wet it. Leave until fully dry, remove from former. It's surprisingly strong. I've used them for wing servo wires in a 1/6 scale Piper Cub.
|Thread: Graupner Ecospan|
***link*** (Google auto translated it ) says it needs something like Balsaloc... interesting stuff, I've never heard if it before. I like the fact it comes on a roll. I use Polyspan which is like Airspan only plain; that comes folded which can be a pain sometimes.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Sealing irons|
The Coverite iron is still only available from U.S.A. as far as I know. Got mine HERE a few years ago. Took a couple of weeks to arrive. You'll need a 110v to 240v transformer (USA to UK adaptor I think they're called) - just a few quid via Amazon.
I think all creative people suffer from the 'might be useful one day ' syndrome.
I do, particularly with non-modelling timber - I've got some Afrormosia hardwood from 40+ years ago and I STILL CAN'T bring myself to chuck it out. I recently found a way to help me 'cull' the increasing stack of sheet material (MDF, PLY etc) - I made a written inventory. Measured each piece, noting its material and condition. Must have helped me focus better because I did scrap an appreciable amount. Also I now actually know what I've got. Little bits of hardware have long been sorted into a set of those cheap transparent plastic food containers from IKEA. Anything that doesn't fit in those is scrapped. I've got limited space in the garage, shared with all the domestic stuff, so I know I've got to keep on top of it.
IT'S STILL HARD TO DO ! A self help group does sound like a good idea...
|Thread: Make your own pilots.|
Thanks for sharing this MP : I'm amazed that the expanding foam picks up the detail. I'd never have thought to try it myself. The products on the Mouldlife site seem good value - looked at a few other sites and got put off by the prices! Must get some of this Super Sculpy too, got a full body 1/6 scale pilot to do for a Cub this year.
|Thread: Preparing to move house|
For our last move, the removal company offered very good flat tri-walled corrugated cardboard boxes at a nominal fee on a use and return basis. We even kept a few at about a small cost.
FE text books - were you a 'finite element' person too? (got rid of mine )
|Thread: Solartexing Scallops|
Hi Andrew, If you don't mind waiting a couple of weeks, get one of these from Tower Hobbies in the U.S.A.
Got mine a couple of years ago and it's really useful. You'll need a little plug-in transformer (USA appliance adaptor) 'cause it's a 110 volt product; just a few pounds off Amazon.
|Thread: Cutting Up A Plan. Is It Sacrilege?|
Personally I always cut plans up into manageable bits, if possible, to fit building boards. Especially separate out the fuselage top view so I can tape it onto the jig baseboard.
No copy shops anywhere near me any more, so I trace parts if I need to.
I store the bits rolled up in Xmas wrapping paper cardboard tubes.
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