Here is a list of all the postings Dane Crosby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: DX9 problems|
Hi. Was the DX9 a G2? Did it have a single antenna or the twin antennae?
I sometimes fly my sailplanes up to 350 metres away and so far have not had a range issue with my DX9.
I'd be interested to see if I'm pushing my luck !
|Thread: Mini/micro lathe|
I am still using my ancient Unimat SL. It has no obvious wear and has many chucks, centres and attachments. Tools are readily available and I enjoy making small and tiny parts with it.
Sourcing drive belts can be a headache but there are ways around that.
|Thread: Field mower question|
We have a second hand 48" cut rotary ride on. It cuts low enough for models with smallish wheels >1½" dia I guess.
I cannot imagine that the smell is particularly pleasant when cutting up a Pangolin.
|Thread: Questions on LiPo maintenance/practice for an electric returnee|
Go to the 4Max web site. George has free downloads covering care and use of LiPos.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
I last made a Swannee in 1966 with single channel McGregor kit plus escapement. All powered by a DC Merlin.
Just finished and maidened my Swannee II . Increased plan size by 26%. Its lecky powered and controlled by Spektrum AR7 Rx. It now has Ailerons, Elevators and Rudder plus Fowler flaps.
I know purists may not like what I have done but I was determined to relive my first RC aircraft in modern format. I havne't had time to add decoration and trim but that will happen soon now that I know it flies well.
Edited By Dane Crosby on 14/12/2018 22:08:50
Hi BP. The PP motor already arrives with the mount at the front.
I had rearranged the nose formers so that the prop spinner was where the original nose was. I rear mounted the previous two motors so had to re-engineer the PP to be rear mounted too. It is slightly longer so a new cowling was needed; about 5mm longer.
If in a hurry I band the prop. I use a spare switch on my tranny to use the Specky Throttle Cut option. Whatever I do with the throttle stick the motor won't run. I use this on all my leccy models to make wrestling with battery connection safer.
There are hundreds of ways to make cowlings and nose cones. I make a solid version out of block balsa. Sand, sanding seal then polyurethane varnish. When dry fix it in the bottom of a plastic cup, yogurt tub, margarine tub etc.
I fix it down with melted wax but vaseline will do. Wax the solid all over. Then fill the tub with plaster of Paris. After a cuppa the plaster is pulled out and you then have a mold which, when dry, I cover in release agent and use glass tissue and resin to make the very thin, but strong nose cone. I fix it with small self tappers.
My Cliffwhacker is still flying. I found that 180w - 200 w was not enough for a fast climb to height.
I replaced the motor with one of over 400w. A vertical climb was the result which was fun for a while.
Six weeks ago I made another hand launch to be surprised by the motor and firewall departing the nose and hanging from one motor wire. Fortunately I was able to land the thing with no further damage. Clearly the motor was a bit too powerful for the airframe.
After rebuilding the nose I fitted a Purple power PO2834 1160 motor with an 11x6 folding prop. This gives about 230w. It now still climbs well and the performance is spot on. I'm still dabbling with the CG but very happy with the model. It catches lift well and has a good glide ratio.
As it copes with most normal windspeeds it is regularly flown. I can remove the prop and cowling and replace with a full grp nosecone for when I attend slopes with strict NO MOTOR rules. Much fun !!
Edited By Dane Crosby on 25/10/2018 16:28:50
|Thread: Dynam Hurricane|
I obtained mine a few weeks ago. I'm still assembling the beast.
I have shaved out the battery space which was not wide enough.
The throws and centreing on the control surfaces was all over the place.
The landing lights are red so changing them to white.
Re glued the canopy magnets They were loose with little glue.
Chucked the non scale exhausts. I'll make correct ones, with one or two stubs made out of lead to balance her if necessary.
The ESC was rattling about the fuselage. I have refitted it forward under the plastic grille, which hadn't been glued properly.
Otherwise, apart from painting a moustache on the pilot, it will be ready for flight test soon.
|Thread: lead weghts|
I prefer to use flashing lead.Every builder and roofing firm regularly skips small offcuts. I cut them and weigh them.
The flat section is easy to fix with sticky pads.
I also melt and mould the lead to make streamlined weights for any externally fixed weights. The moulds are very easily made out of plaster of Paris.
An example is when I re-engined a motor glider with a more powerful motor. A small amount of weight was needed at the tail..
To avoid opening up the fuselage I fixed a streamlined weight in place of, and identical to, the tail skid.
Another source is a fishing shop. Their neat and marked lead weights are of different shapes and sizes.
The model shop weights are also fast and convenient to use.
|Thread: Wing servo lead plugs and sockets?|
I have just completed my modern version of Swannee with ailerons and flaps.
Just before crimping normal servo connectors at the wing root I was lucky to discover that Purple Power / 4Max, are now supplying MaxLock connectors. They used to be called Ashlock.
They appear similar to normal servo crimp sockets and plugs and are from 6 to 12 way. The assembly is flat and has a locking latch. I have tested it out and all works nicely. I'll let you know how it all copes in the air after the maiden next Saturday.
The crimps outwardly look the same as normal servo connector crimps. They are totally opposite systems to each other. Normal servo crimps have a little square cut-out that engages with a tiny plastic tongue in the cover. The MaxLock crimps each have a small leaf spring that clicks into a slot in the cover. ( How did I find this out? Yup,I tried to use up my old servo lead crimps first. Had to cut them off and start again with the new type......Doh)
|Thread: Government Consultation on Drone Flying in the UK.|
Thanks for the info BEB. Compiled and completed in one go. let us hope that they receive thousands of replies. We must all spread the word !
|Thread: Is epoxy the same as mustard?|
Aha, possibly quantitative Sinapsis Alba paradox syndrome?
|Thread: Looping Hercules|
Dave, it would be a smooth manoeuvre and you probably wouldn't notice !!
There was a story about Hercs being rolled and looped in the sixties. It was certainly strong enough and powerful enough to make these manoeuvres, but I don't recall any RAF Alberts being flown in this way.
It was a fine airframe to perform quite spirited displays in the 70s and early 80s.
|Thread: What actually is Storage Mode ?|
See the 4Max Purple Power web site. There are some free comprehensive leaflets covering use and storage of LiPos.
|Thread: Stripped thread bodge|
Hi, Maybe the high temp silicone sealer used to seal joints on wood stove chimneys? I have never tried this so cannot guarantee it would work. Good luck with it.
|Thread: The 2018 Transmitter Survey!|
|DX7s and now DX 9 G2. |
60 hours on DX9 now with no snags. I like the voice telemetry. The latest firmware upgrade gives greater flexibility.
|Thread: End for Maplins?|
I have read that the owners of Pound Shops are possibly in a bit of a predicament too.
|Thread: Christmas Caption Competition!|
Hi all, sorry about the self induced delay.
Many thanks to Beth and the team. I am now the proud owner of a West Wings Swallow glider kit. It is a traditional kit similar to the aircraft I built in the sixties.
I shall use micro R/C and after a careful build I'll fly it whenever the wind is gentle enough here in Cornwall.
Best wishes to everyone.
Edited By Dane Crosby on 19/02/2018 10:32:09
|Thread: Were to buy lipo battery|
|I have used Purple Power LiPos for years. I have had very good reliability and power from them |
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