Here is a list of all the postings Dane Crosby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Benefits of the lockdown|
I have now become brave enough to carve in to my Dual Ace wings to take out the fixed U/C and fit electric retracts.
Got the wings in jigs and having to cut one rib and a chunk of under wing skin.. This will be beefed up with ply. Trying to do this with surgical care.
I have also converted it to EP. I would have put all this off if I didn't have this spare time to get it exactly right.
Estimates show that with batteries, it will be about 1lb lighter than in its i/c form.
|Thread: Anyone used the Spektrum AR410 or 620 receivers ??|
I replaced my normal six channel DSMX AR6010 with an AR620. I was a bit cynical about it as I could see very little inside the case, and no antennae or remote antennae. I tried it out in my hack Max Thrust Lightning electric glider.
I was soon impressed by the rock solid stability of the Rx and as much range as required......probably BVR.
The telemetry is of the fly-by type but still useful. I have been up in thermals to good heights and at no time had F more than 90, no H at all. I have fitted it vertically, sockets on top. At first sight it shouldn't work so well but after 25 flights and about 20 hours in the air I have had no problems.
I would not worry about using it in other aircraft now. Much less fuss in fitting Rx and satellites. Good value. Can recommend it.
Edited By Dane Crosby on 24/03/2020 11:37:01
|Thread: power for remote container.|
Try a yacht or boat Chandler. The yachts I see in harbour have their little wind turbines rotating all the time. I imagine some sort of shunt impedance may be used.
|Thread: Folland Gnat|
The full size Gnat T1 had an all flying Tailplane. The tiny elevators were locked to the main moving tailplane. We could unlock them by means of a plunger following hydraulic failure but had much limited control. The all moving tail could be moved up by a DC motor in this case as a form of trimming.
HYD fail caused a complicated checklist to be carried out. All Gnat guys will remember the mnemonic STUPRECC. 🙂
|Thread: A new caption competition - winner declared!|
If you don't stop the barbed comments I'll start to take offence and see red!
Edited By Dane Crosby on 28/11/2019 21:17:17
|Thread: BMFA numbers. Is this true, or a gross exaggeration?|
it is sad that H&S, although commendable, is forever being "improved" at the expense of hands on. I studied Physics, Chemistry and metalwork at A Level. All experiments were carried out by myself with a clip on the ear if I spilt chemicals or blew some fuses. Use of tools was as important as designing and making objects in steel, alloys and other metals. We were expected to set up and use lathes and small furnaces. Now, the poor kids tend to wear goggles, gloves and other kit but just watch the teacher carrying out experiments. constructive subjects seem to revolve around CAD/CAM. all tooling seems to be demonstrated by instructors with little, closely monitored, personal hewing of materials.
As a teenager I though nothing of setting up a workshop, reading and understanding a plan, then constructing a model working with wood, plastics and metals. The lack of hands on experience for youngsters will kill the make-it-yourself side of the hobby. I don't have an answer to this.
My other pastime is building an working on kit cars. At the National kit car show every year I speak to members of he public passing by our stand. It is very common for people younger than about 30 to state that nowadays it is not allowed for non-garage people to work on vehicles. They imagine that with modern electronics it cannot be built or serviced by individuals. Getting the message over that it is OK to build and work on one's car is quite alien to the majority. Again, I have run out of answers to this; deciding that showing by example can be the only way.
Any ideas how we get youngsters to work with tools and have confidence with machinery?
|Thread: Led light controller from dyna|
Hi, I have the later version of the Hurricane which comes with full comedy lighting.
I found on my system (Spektrum DX9 G2, AR9010) that the lights module couldn't find any switching mechanism; It just seems to get its power from the Rx.
I soldered the "controller" to a Veroboard circuit on which I separated the flashing signal from the steady signal.
I also soldered on an electronic switch as part of the steady light channel.
On the aircraft I changed the anti collision lights to bright red, plugged in to the flashing output from the controller.
I plugged the navigation lights into the steady output. I ripped out the silly red landing lights which were replaced with brilliant white 10mm LEDs. These I connected to my switched, steady circuit. This is also connected to the gear output from the RX. Now, the correct colour landing lights only illuminate when the gear is down.
The little Veroboard was made of a size to fit in the recess under the cockpit, above the rear wing entre section. All the Dynam warbirds are different so others may not have room for this board which is about 30mm by 20mm.
The only time consuming bit was to make the plethora of the Dynam wiring spaghetti fit neatly when attaching the wing.
The steady and flashing lights all operate as soon as the Rx is powered up. I haven't bothered to place another electronic switch to the Rx although that could have been added to the board.
|Thread: Good luck to the BMFA|
My wife was standing near a stall at the Royal Cornwall show. A chap was talking to her about a multirotor he had bought previously for his little son. The first flight from their back garden in a housing estate resulted in a zoom climb then transit out of site never to be found again. It was a tiny machine. At the show he bought a DJI type of larger drone for his lad. Its larger so he could keep an eye on it. Wife told him that There were strict rules on where he could fly the thing and that he would need to register come October. He was rude and said the seller would have told him so she must be just making it up. Off he went home to fly it from his garden no doubt.
I doesn't matter how many of us register. It is those types that won't bother to register or learn about drone flying get us all in tarred with the same brush in the eye of the general public. Welcome to the anarchic brave new world.
I just don't know what our politicians are thinking about. For the Baroness, whom incidentally totally flanned a formal letter sent to her by myself, to compare licensing model aircraft (sic "Drones" ) for safety and security threats to licensing fishing is crass. Is fishing a safety and security risk? Unlikely I suppose.
For decades there has been robust "interference with flight" laws which have severe penalties. The alleged Drone attacks on Gatwick fall nicely under this umbrella. Thus, there is already a robust law to cover the issue. No knee jerk action is needed; just detection and prosecution.
Now, Grayling wants to have sound checkers on roads to check for the "boy racers" on motorcycles and custom cars whom are deemed to be antisocial to the public. My other pastime is working on and running kit cars. There is already a robust law governing the noise output from a vehicle. These laws are in the SVA/IVA tests that modified cars are subject to. The car must stay below a required Db level at a certain RPM. Its all on the VOSA web site. I notice that this will not apply to the deafening noise from buses and trucks in town.
Again, the powers that be are trying to look active and important to some unaware members of the voting public by making what I call "Mirror Laws". Each MP must be made aware of how this is allowing senior politicians to start acting in the style of the old East German total control and oppression style of government.
Any wide boys won't care and will carry on without worrying about the deluge of legislation as with Drones, guns and fishing rods !!
Right, I'm off to do some beach casting. I hope you will all forgive me for being a safety and security risk !!
Edited By Dane Crosby on 08/06/2019 09:56:12
|Thread: DX9 problems|
Hi. Was the DX9 a G2? Did it have a single antenna or the twin antennae?
I sometimes fly my sailplanes up to 350 metres away and so far have not had a range issue with my DX9.
I'd be interested to see if I'm pushing my luck !
|Thread: Mini/micro lathe|
I am still using my ancient Unimat SL. It has no obvious wear and has many chucks, centres and attachments. Tools are readily available and I enjoy making small and tiny parts with it.
Sourcing drive belts can be a headache but there are ways around that.
|Thread: Field mower question|
We have a second hand 48" cut rotary ride on. It cuts low enough for models with smallish wheels >1½" dia I guess.
I cannot imagine that the smell is particularly pleasant when cutting up a Pangolin.
|Thread: Questions on LiPo maintenance/practice for an electric returnee|
Go to the 4Max web site. George has free downloads covering care and use of LiPos.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
I last made a Swannee in 1966 with single channel McGregor kit plus escapement. All powered by a DC Merlin.
Just finished and maidened my Swannee II . Increased plan size by 26%. Its lecky powered and controlled by Spektrum AR7 Rx. It now has Ailerons, Elevators and Rudder plus Fowler flaps.
I know purists may not like what I have done but I was determined to relive my first RC aircraft in modern format. I havne't had time to add decoration and trim but that will happen soon now that I know it flies well.
Edited By Dane Crosby on 14/12/2018 22:08:50
Hi BP. The PP motor already arrives with the mount at the front.
I had rearranged the nose formers so that the prop spinner was where the original nose was. I rear mounted the previous two motors so had to re-engineer the PP to be rear mounted too. It is slightly longer so a new cowling was needed; about 5mm longer.
If in a hurry I band the prop. I use a spare switch on my tranny to use the Specky Throttle Cut option. Whatever I do with the throttle stick the motor won't run. I use this on all my leccy models to make wrestling with battery connection safer.
There are hundreds of ways to make cowlings and nose cones. I make a solid version out of block balsa. Sand, sanding seal then polyurethane varnish. When dry fix it in the bottom of a plastic cup, yogurt tub, margarine tub etc.
I fix it down with melted wax but vaseline will do. Wax the solid all over. Then fill the tub with plaster of Paris. After a cuppa the plaster is pulled out and you then have a mold which, when dry, I cover in release agent and use glass tissue and resin to make the very thin, but strong nose cone. I fix it with small self tappers.
My Cliffwhacker is still flying. I found that 180w - 200 w was not enough for a fast climb to height.
I replaced the motor with one of over 400w. A vertical climb was the result which was fun for a while.
Six weeks ago I made another hand launch to be surprised by the motor and firewall departing the nose and hanging from one motor wire. Fortunately I was able to land the thing with no further damage. Clearly the motor was a bit too powerful for the airframe.
After rebuilding the nose I fitted a Purple power PO2834 1160 motor with an 11x6 folding prop. This gives about 230w. It now still climbs well and the performance is spot on. I'm still dabbling with the CG but very happy with the model. It catches lift well and has a good glide ratio.
As it copes with most normal windspeeds it is regularly flown. I can remove the prop and cowling and replace with a full grp nosecone for when I attend slopes with strict NO MOTOR rules. Much fun !!
Edited By Dane Crosby on 25/10/2018 16:28:50
|Thread: Dynam Hurricane|
I obtained mine a few weeks ago. I'm still assembling the beast.
I have shaved out the battery space which was not wide enough.
The throws and centreing on the control surfaces was all over the place.
The landing lights are red so changing them to white.
Re glued the canopy magnets They were loose with little glue.
Chucked the non scale exhausts. I'll make correct ones, with one or two stubs made out of lead to balance her if necessary.
The ESC was rattling about the fuselage. I have refitted it forward under the plastic grille, which hadn't been glued properly.
Otherwise, apart from painting a moustache on the pilot, it will be ready for flight test soon.
|Thread: lead weghts|
I prefer to use flashing lead.Every builder and roofing firm regularly skips small offcuts. I cut them and weigh them.
The flat section is easy to fix with sticky pads.
I also melt and mould the lead to make streamlined weights for any externally fixed weights. The moulds are very easily made out of plaster of Paris.
An example is when I re-engined a motor glider with a more powerful motor. A small amount of weight was needed at the tail..
To avoid opening up the fuselage I fixed a streamlined weight in place of, and identical to, the tail skid.
Another source is a fishing shop. Their neat and marked lead weights are of different shapes and sizes.
The model shop weights are also fast and convenient to use.
|Thread: Wing servo lead plugs and sockets?|
I have just completed my modern version of Swannee with ailerons and flaps.
Just before crimping normal servo connectors at the wing root I was lucky to discover that Purple Power / 4Max, are now supplying MaxLock connectors. They used to be called Ashlock.
They appear similar to normal servo crimp sockets and plugs and are from 6 to 12 way. The assembly is flat and has a locking latch. I have tested it out and all works nicely. I'll let you know how it all copes in the air after the maiden next Saturday.
The crimps outwardly look the same as normal servo connector crimps. They are totally opposite systems to each other. Normal servo crimps have a little square cut-out that engages with a tiny plastic tongue in the cover. The MaxLock crimps each have a small leaf spring that clicks into a slot in the cover. ( How did I find this out? Yup,I tried to use up my old servo lead crimps first. Had to cut them off and start again with the new type......Doh)
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