Here is a list of all the postings Limobob has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Top Flite P51 - 65" span|
It certainly will have working flaps! Theze have already been hinged with 3/16” dia. Robart hinge points. As far as Oracover is concerned, the silver as I mentioned before is dead easy to apply, the only thing I would say is the underlying finish has to be perfect S the bit I tried did show up the balsa grain. Sanding sealer may not be recommended but maybe a thin wash over with Balsaloc or Oracovers own product would sort this out. Must have come up dozens of times in the past, a quick mail to the company may come up trumps! I wont be rushing i to anything with this model as we hope to get away in our camping car very soon and other things tend to get in the way of modelling this time of the year!
I have an almost completely constructed Mustang from, it must be at least 2 1/2 decades ago. I dragged it out during the lockdown and was quite suprised at how little needs to be done for completion. It has moved house twice and picked up a few dings but not really too bad and needs just some tlc to get it going again. I have a Supre Tigre 90, unrun and with the necessary in cowl silencer and manifold. It would not be my choice these days but will be used as i can’t justify extra expense. Also the correct Robart air retract system complete with the required Robostruts. All very expensive stuff and again if i were starting from scratch would use Robart electric units. Having read comments on the forum regarding weight, I thought I would put it on the scales. The wing c/w retract units, wheels and three standard servo came out at 3lb 1oz. The fuselage fin and stab plus elevators, again with three standard and one small servo for the air system, the engine, soft mount and silencer plus spinner came to 4lbs 14ozs. A total then of 7lbs 15ozs. My intention years ago was to glass the whole model but now i shall use Oracover Silver all over which is far superior to the Solarfilm silver i used on my DB Tiger Moth. I have tried a small piece and it does ot mark like the Solarfilm did. Two rolls of Oracover plus other bits and pieces of hardware will surely shove the finished weight well above 10lbs, so getting pretty weighty. The aluminium spinner alone weighs 8ozs! Any thoughts from anyone as to whether all this will be a viable proposition? Such a shame to have it just slowly deteroirating as it is a handsome looking beast!.
|Thread: The Big Guff.|
Just to let you know, further info on sourcing vinyl decals. Yesterday evening i searched for a supplier and came up with Lettresadhesives.net. I’ve ordered one wing sized decal and two smaller, ‘Barnstormer 72’. With postage the whole order was 16 euros which i thought was pretty reasonable delivered to my door with no chasing about. They promise a rapid turnaround so i will report back when they arrive with my conclusions! I’m in the Haute Vienne, nearest largish town is Bellac. I have visited B2M several times and note your very good facilities and thriving membership which is good. I know your president Francois and also the Dutch chap Gerard, both of whom are very pleasant and friendly. Not sure about the runway, looks a tad short but doesn’t seem to stop any competent fliers and probably just a bit of a learning curve. Very nice situation though away from habitation with, if i remeber correctly, just an adjacent farm.
Thanks for that iinfo. Do you supply artwork or are you able to choose your option in the store. Gueret is a bit far for me so will search more locally. I wasn’t aware copy type shops provide this service over here. I have used a well known UK outlet on several occasions but as usual the postage to France is pretty horrendous. Would you believe i ordered 2 pushrods from a UK source and was charged £16.50 postage. I queried this amount at time of order and asked if they could be rolled up in a jiffy bag. This they did, but still charged the original amount....i was pretty miffed because one was kinked quite badly
Could you please post the supplier of your vinyl decals. I assume it is an establishment fairly close to your commune
|Thread: Rcme latest issue|
Hi folks, I have a subscription to a digital + paper copy of RCME. Digital copy usually available very early but no sign of the May issue. I realise these are difficult times but the paper copy is advertised as being available. I’m not sure how to contact the magazine so posted here to see if anyone can help
Stay safe, stay in. Here in France pretty strict about going out and about with an new attestation required for every visit, even walking the dog. Quite heavy fines for non conformation!
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer|
I have recently finished a Flair Pup, bought via the classifieds on this forum, along with a Saito 62. I was advised by an ‘expert’ to shove the nose out by maybe as much as 40mm to overcome the tail heavyness. I finished up streching the nose by 25mm which proved perfect to accomodate the rear carb and along with a Dubro four stroke linkage did the task admirably and i’ve finished up with the C.G. spot on with no additional nose weight required. I have had a Mk1 kit unbuilt for donkeys years having started one wing panel but not proceeding any further. This proved very useful during my later build as i robbed the cowl and cabane struts, both of which were of very poor quality and pretty much unuseable. I also had a set of decals and my word,they were awful. I used a few items but the wing roundelsi found hopeless...maybe just me, but i now have all the necessary paint to complete the task. My model is still unflown but looks very pristine and will i’m sure be fine once i bight the bullet. Had a few health problems recently but hopefully this coming summer i can fly the thing. If i knew how to create an album, i would post some pictures. I have several of my nose extension which was easy. N.B The models nose extension, not mine!!!
|Thread: Christmas Present for a Two Year-Old.|
Off subject a bit, but how nice to see a reply from Martin Dilly. I attended the Nats at RAF Scampton, i believe it would have been 1961?. The white painted Vulcans all ready to go lined up on the far side of the runway. Driven up there by non other than Frank Knowles, he of Galahad fame ( Reigate MFC). Martin, bless him managed to slam the car door on my Eliminator wing as i exited the Ford Prefect from the rear. All repaired and flew in the competition the next day. Martin used to wear a very distinctive hat. Like something off a garden gnome. I wonder if he still has it. The friday night camping was well remembered for the most awful storm. Quite scary in a tent i might add. Radio was in its early days but i think Chis Ohlsen flew his Uproar and Stewart Uwins later boss of Skyleader was in attendance.
When my kids were very young i knocked up a lovely little pod and boom chuck glider which if i remember correctly was in the good old model plans handbook. Cost was minimal as was construction time against some of the things i build these days. I’m sure i have the plan somewhere as i never throw anything away! Probably not time to do anything before your impending visit but maybe for the future when the little chap will be able to ‘chuck it’ himself without falling over and squashing all your hard work.
|Thread: Chip Shop|
Thank you for your reassurance with the Saito 62. I also have a Saito 40FS but had not considered it sufficiently powerful for the Chippie. At present it pops along at 1/2 throttle in Baron Rouge which is a delight to fly. I have my Saito 62 in a Flair Pup at present and will consider buying another from Topmodel France who have 5 in stock. To Andy Muckley, i am indeed interested in your offer. Perhaps you could give me an idea where you are in UK. I am over from sunday next for 2 weeks so perhaps could sort something out
I hope people still look at this excellent post.i am miles behind all you good people but am getting together all the bits and pieces for this chipmunk build.
SLEC have supplied me with a set of the horns so that is good.
Just need to ask, my preferred power supply would be a Saito 62b.
would this give enough power for this model or should i go up a bit.
I have an ASP 70 but looking at this it is quite chunky and would need a fair bit of chopping to accomodate the rear cab etc.
i also have a saito 72 which would fit fine.
Any info would be greatly appreciated
|Thread: Brian Winch|
A sad day to see a passing of a true expert. Someone we could trust with no crap and very entertaining also. Very few true engineers exist these days and he will be sorely missed. I just hope there is someone in his family to take over all the little gizmos he has collected over the years and they will not just bin all his lovely tools. A very sad day for us model engine people.
May he be given a glorious send off. Nothing else to say.
|Thread: DB Auster J1.|
I have a DB Auster all but finished, a great model from Dave Boddington.
Whilst building mine i referred many times to a series of posts by ‘Dwain Dibley’. This chap is a real master and helped me tremendously.
he is still about on the forums and i think is at present building a Brian Taylor Cessna. You may be able to PM him and i am sure he would be willing to help.
Good luck, a very nice big model which should fly like a dream. My first full size flight in an Auster 5 way back around 1956 if my memory serves me well. All along the coast from lovely Shoreham Airport, and the cost,...just one English Pound, now that really does show my age. G-ANHR by the way which i believe still survives but needs some TLC.
|Thread: Dennis Bryant 1:51/3 scale Tiger Moth Advice Needed|
Not a thing for over 2 years but i am still active..just! The Tiger Moth is progressing with many, many niggling problems. I wonder when i purchased the Laser cut bits from Traplet, should i have paid for a new set of drawings?
i started to build the fuselage but found that nothing fitted. Everything was too small. I cut the fuselage plan free to position in my jig but found the centre line to be banana shaped! Two fuselage sides were made but on trying to add the 1/32 doubler this was much too small. I cut two new ones to match my very (in)accurate completed profiles.
I finished up drawing the fuselage plan from the side elevation onto a length of lining paper and put this onto my jig to mate the two sides.
it all came together OK and was as accurate as i could wish it to be. Hang on though, i should have checked prior to doing all this as the rear fuselage formers are all too small and do not come out to the finished fuselage sides.
My drawings were very old but had been dry stored. No doubt they were printed on some ancient dye-line machine which fed the print through in an uneven manner, hence the fuselage centre line not being straight.
twenty seven quid for a new print, very expensive but maybe would have been, or certainly would have been worth the expense.
i have just one lower wing panel to construct and then i can start to see if it is going to be worth all the heartache. The wing chords are all about 3-4mm short when using the laser cut ribs. Today i have been adding all the bits and pieces around the nose area and have been tearing my hair out with all the innaccuracies.
i will soldier on though and maybe see if i can add a photo or two of my frustrating build.
Quite a big committment both in time and money on this thing and a couple of times i felt like jumping on it! Not the correct attitude though as we hope it will all come together in the end.
Much more satisfying for an old git like me to struggle to build something, rather than take a Chinese ARTF out of the box and a few hours later have a pristine new model, factory built, and i must admit, usually very impressive, and probably much cheaper than scratch build.....but were is the pleasure in that.
If my Tiger Moth flys, maybe a bit wonky here and there, but at least i have the pleasure to know i built it (with a lot of lasercut stuff from Traplet) and i shall continue doing so...long live the proper aeromodels..
|Thread: Hinging with Solatex|
Hope i havent stirred up a hornets nest...quite common out here in France! I think eflightray has the answer to my question and that was should i hinge after completely covering. Gives the option of easy removal if not correct.i now have both wing panels of the Pup all but complete apart from the sanding etc. so can cut the ailerons free and see how it all looks then. I must say it is difficult not to finish up with a nice straight wing. I built the second half of the top wing straight onto its mating partner. Much easier, so tomorrow when i release everthing we shall see. Thanks to everyone for your input to this thread, it is good to chew things over and eventually arrive at a satisfactory solution...but knowing me....i will change my mind at the last minute and get myself i to an awful mess. I just love the building side of aeromodelling, very thereaupeutic...wrong spelling i am sure....i always have loads of builds problems etc going round in my head and am sure this is no bad thing!!!!!!!!!!
Interesting posts. The clothes horse method is easy and should work fine. Stephens method is interesting, never seen that before but not sure what thread is best to use as it then becomes the hinge but would seem a very good way to get things lined up properly. On my tiger moth i have used pinned hinges and made a pocket in the core of the flying surfaces capped each side with 1/16” sheet. You finish up with a perfect ‘box’ for the hinge to slide into and exactly on the centre line. Still at early stages with the Pup so plenty of time to sort covering /hinging out but have contacted Solarfilm Sales and ordered some Antique which i undestand they can still supply. Fingers crossed.
i am in the process of building a Flair Pup. purchased via the Modelflying classifieds. My thoughts turned to covering and with the demise of Solatex the obvious choice is Oratex. Only problem, it is narrower than Solatex and for the Pup would be very wasteful not wishing to join across the wing chord except at the centre but on contacting Solarfilm Sales it would appear they still have some stock of antique so problem solved. My thoughts with the covering was to complete the wing and ailerons seperately and then do the hinging afterwards i.e. not attempting to cover the top of each wing and aileron in one piece. It is probably obvious to those experts who have done this many times but just seeking a bit of advice. I will probably pink some strips for rib tapes so a double layer around the aileron would i think not look out of place. Any hints or tips gratefully accepted.
|Thread: Ares Alpine 1200|
We are now back home and i took a bit of time to inspect everything. Apologies to John Lee, it does in fact recommend the Zacki ca - must read the manual in future! One thing i was very suprised at was how stiff the moveable surfaces are. The elevator in particular needed quite a bit of grunt to move at all and then only really near the horn. I tried flexing back and forth but this did not seem to make much difference. I feel the full length hinge needs cutting to produce a few 'normal' hinges. There must be dozens of people who have the same thoughts. A lot of pressure on a tiny servo does not seem correct. No mention in the manual so am i being too fussy?
I know - pretty boring actually!!!
We are driving home tomorrow to our home in France. I have lots to do when we return so will in good time let you know how it all goes with the petite Alpine. We had a spell with zero wind on our patch during late summer which is very unusual - normally a nasty crosswind but still loads of space and no traffic on the roads. We are in UK at present but when we left home for eurotunnel, albeit early mornng on a sunday, but drove over 40km, including a chunk of motorway before we saw another car.
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