Here is a list of all the postings John Stainforth has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fouga magister 1/4.5 moulded from scratch|
A work of art. Thanks for this fantastic build blog. It shows extraordinary care and attention to every detail!
|Thread: Panic! Damaged prop shaft threads - can't fully unscrew retaining nut. Help please!|
From my experience of having had endless prop nuts come undone, I would say you will be lucky if this is adequate. Getting washer, prop nut and spinner combinations that are compatible and work is a pain in the neck. I would try to put on a thinner washer (without the taper), then a thinner nut and then the spinner attachment nut as a lock-nut.
Another problem (that Jon of Laser may be able to answer), is why do so many engines come with threaded crankshafts that look barely long enough for the job?
Anyway good luck with it.
|Thread: Fuel additives ?|
I can usually tell within about five miles of refueling whether I have better or worse fuel in the tank just by how the car feels. I also watch my mpg gauge all the time. The effect of the fuel additives I mentioned is fairly subtle (a few mpg on my diesel Golfs, e.g. 65 mpg compared with 68), but the effect of added ethanol on my petrol car is somewhat more pronounced. In America, petrol with 10% ethanol is called E10, and I found by monitoring the effects over every single tankful for fifteen years that the mpg with the ethanol is about 7% worse than without it. Some petrol ('gas' stations in the area I lived in added the ethanol, and some did not, and not all consistently did or did not add ethanol. Again, after just a few miles, I could always tell whether I had a tank with or without ethanol. (My typical mpg in my Prius with the ethanol was about 44 and 47 without).
Edited By John Stainforth on 07/01/2021 16:42:27
Has anyone else noticed how those more expensive car diesel fuels with additives (e.g., Shell V-power, or BP Ulitmate, or whatever they are called) give slightly lower performance and mpg than the cheaper fuels without the additives?
|Thread: Starter for smaller engines|
If hand starting, it's best to use a chicken stick (or any old stick) rather than your finger!
|Thread: Building board|
I advocated glass above, a la Dave Platt. Every time I mention this, it gets ignored. As I said, I am totally converted to this way of building, as someone who always used to use soft boards and pins. One does not have to build over plans. All one needs is one or two straight lines, and tick marks for rib and former positions, marked straight onto the glass with a "permanent" marker - the ink wipes straight off with methylated spirits and a paper towel afterwards. Balsa jigs can be glued straight onto the glass and are very easily cut off later, and the CA completely removed with a modeling knife or razor blade. Parts are held down with weights. It is all dead easy, the glass is dead flat and cleans up very quickly with knife and meths so that it remains pristine after building anything. If you look in my S6b album, you will see my glass table top before, during and after various stages of building. Also, have a look at the expert Dave Platt building on glass in his videos.
|Thread: New mod's|
|Thread: Advent Prize Draw - 12th Dec|
I think it's got my name on it!
|Thread: How to contact the site moderators!|
One of the other forums that I visit regularly got inundated a few weeks ago by fake newsers and conspiracy theorists, who were new to the forum and had no interest in the content of the forum itself, at all all. They were just using it to promulgate propaganda. After several weeks of that, they got banned from the site.
Generally, I agree, that very little should be blocked. But I think there are reasonable limits to what is acceptable. Perhaps, RCME should consider flagging fake news and conspiracy theories in the same way as Twitter.
I am not happy with the Covid thread. There seem to be several people posting uninformed conspiracies theories and very selfish opinions. I am very surprised this has got past the moderators.
|Thread: Fouga magister 1/4.5 moulded from scratch|
I am very interested in this process of making plugs for molds using 3D printing. I am wondering how you are going to fill, seal and prepare the surface of the 3D print before making the mold? Will heat from the curing resin cause any problems?
|Thread: Macchi Mc 72|
What weight and wingspan are you S6(b) and MC72? (I personally find wing loadings hard to relate to, unless I know the size. I prefer cubic wing loadings.)
I still have not flown my S6b, mainly because of Covid, even though it has been ready to go since mid-summer. Perhaps, next year, Covid permitting, those of us with Schneider models should try to organise a flying get together. I also have a Sebart MC72, which flies really well because it has a low wing loading.
Edited By John Stainforth on 01/12/2020 20:04:53
|Thread: How do you cut yours?|
When it comes to printing or photocopying I often find that the print is not quite to scale or slightly distorted. With various computer and printer combinations this can often be rectified simply by playing about with the printer settings. Usually the culprit is something like a default margin setting that can be turned off or changed. If one has a 3D drafted plan, things are much easier because one can print out the part outline with a background grid (e.g. 1-inch grid) and then check and adjust the settings rather easily to make sure that 1" really is exactly 1" in both directions.
|Thread: Haven't any people on YouTube heard of grease?|
I don't think that wheel spinning in the air does any significant wear. I have done more flying off hard strips than grass and I have been surprised just how much tire wear there is: one has to replace the tires every few years. When one takes off and lands on grass, there is nowhere near the same tire wear, but the axles still take a hell of a bashing, even though it may not be very apparent. The main wear is to the holes in plastic hubs, and then the (inevitable) cracking of those hubs.
|Thread: The Threat of Overpricing|
Compared with the old balsa and ply ARFs, the Wot E foam certainly seems big a rip-off. It is much like a cheaply made toy, worth about 20 quid at most. I won't be buying another.
|Thread: A Shortage Of Balsa And Lipo's, Where Do We Go From Here?|
Where are the moderators now, who are usually so quick to pounce on anything even mildly political? Racism and conspiracy theorists should be called out.
Balsa can be replaced in many of its model aircraft applications, but what I am missing is a viable alternative to balsa sheet (e.g. 1/16th inch). The materials I know of are either too thick, or too rigid, or too soft, or won't take compound curves, and none has the useful anisotropy of balsa. Any ideas?
|Thread: Wing accuracy|
Yes, of course. But using my model mags for building models is a reason not to throw them away!
I find that stacks of old model aircraft magazines (such as RCM&E) work very well for holding down curved wing sheeting.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!