Here is a list of all the postings GrahamWh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bistormer 60" (A Barnstormer with more ribs)|
It looks like a good antique colour.
|Thread: Road Rage. Very bad experience - Why are people like that ?|
If I remember the highway code rightly if there is an obstruction on your side of the road, it is your duty to stop behind it and wait for oncoming cars on the other side to pass before pulling out to get past the obstruction. Parked cars would be such an obstruction. Breaking the highway code is not of itself an offence, but may be an indication that one was not driving with due care.
|Thread: New four stroke - valves hissing|
Thank you all. In view of your suggestion Martin I suppose it would be best not to continue with the running in procedure until I speak with Just Engines.
Would there normally be no hissing from valves in new four stroke engines then?
The extent of the leak with this engine is that all compression is gone within a second or so if turned by hand.
I should have said - I have checked the valve clearances. The exhaust valve clearance was a little tight when it arrived so I adjusted it to 0.08mm, same as inlet. (acceptable range in instructions was 0.04 to 0.1 mm so 0.08 seemed sensible). Hissing was still there. Thanks.
I am used to 2 strokes and have recently bought an ASP FS70AR. I am half way through the run in procedure.
When it arrived (the day after I bought it - excellent service at Just Engines) I noticed when turning the prop over by hand a hissing noise from the exhaust port on the compression stroke - the valve leaking.
Is this normal on a new four stroke engine? The inlet valve does not leak, unless I hold my thumb over the exhaust port tightly to block that leak, then there is a weak hiss at the inlet.
I am half way through the run in procedure given by Just Engines and there does not yet seem to be an improvement in the hissing or the compression. Will the valve eventually bed in or is there a fault?
At least I bought it from Just Engines who give a 2 year warrantee and have an excellent service record judging by other people's threads - provided I don't succumb to the temptation to take the head off and have a look at the valve seating which would invalidate this!
Is any one able to advise?
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer|
I've re-read a bit - sorry Cymaz, I understand you were after the undercarriage jig! No pic for what I used for that, scraps of wood.
Nearly ready. Rigging and top aileron links to go and some other bits.
Pics of the jig used below:
Cymaz, in case mine might help too - for the jig I mage 2 identical sides. They had a top and bottom beam for the wings to rest on, set exactly parallel, and with a block on the bottom one to hold the bottom wing leading edge back the right distance. They were put on the table at equal distances from the fuselage and I used a spirit level to get them exactly level with each other. I screwed in a small diagonal to hold upright - having checked with set squares they were at 90 to the table surface. Hope that is of some use. Mine had to be made a bit different due to having a different aerofoil section from the plan, so the spacing of top and bottom beam will be different, as well as the amount of stagger between top and bottom leading edges.
Edited By GrahamWh on 16/03/2014 10:32:14
Edited By GrahamWh on 16/03/2014 10:49:59
Edited By GrahamWh on 16/03/2014 10:51:33
|Thread: Flair Cub Kit.|
I didn't spot that as I was looking through - until I read where you typed it! At least you have somewhere you can stick the batteries now without having to go under the tank - a little hatch on top would give good access for a battery change on a long flying day.
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer|
Thank you Kev for the measurements - that's really great. Very kind of you. I will get cracking with the wire bending this weekend - need to get some more gas for the blow torch from the store. I'm going to start with the axle soldered to the legs as in the plan rather than playing around with bungee/rubber bands. I'll see how it goes. I have an old OS 70FS which turns a 13X6 at 7200 rpm which should give a manageable top speed and as it will be mounted forward of F1 should mean I don't need too much lead. Again it won't look very scale as the nose will be at least an inch longer than it should, but if I'm clever with the colour scheme around the nose I might get away with it! Should sound good any way. I'm also trying an aerofoil section my brother recommended for me (SD7062, 14%) rather than the flat bottomed one in the plan. It was a bit tricky to construct but the wings are made and covered now. Look nice against the light!
Edited By GrahamWh on 21/11/2013 21:03:35
Thanks very much Dean for going to so much trouble for me. That is very helpful.
I'm afraid my colour scheme is not particularly scale though - transparent yellow underneath the wings with transparent blue on top, transparent yellow fuse. I'm hoping the sunlight through the framework will look nice!
I will paint over it if it looks a mess!
Very nice pics of the pups on the thread guys and a very informative build. I am in the process of scratch building a puppeteer from a Flair plan and am just about to start on the undercarriage. Please could someone say at what angle to the vertical the undercarriage legs are when viewed from the front? The Sopwith pup legs were at about 20 degrees, but the Flair pup looks closer to 45 on the pictures people have posted. Alternatively, the length of axle between its attachments to the legs?
Edited By Graham Whitehouse on 20/11/2013 17:59:01
Edited By Graham Whitehouse on 20/11/2013 17:59:28
|Thread: Matt finish for solarfilm|
Thnak you chaps, plenty of ideas to be getting on with there. Much appreciated.
Try holding the tacho low down and pointing at a skyward angle through the prop - this may give a better contrast for the tacho you've got and you may find you get better readings. I use a cheap one too.
|Thread: Matt finish for solarfilm|
I like using solarfilm, am used to it and find it good value, but want to be able to apply a matt finish to it for my next project. Is there anything I can brush/spray on to give a one coat matt finish?
|Thread: Evolution Petrol Engines|
Hello all, I have been reading the above and it all seems very interesting. I have been struggling with a disobedient, hard to tune and often deadsticking SC46 for over a year which I am thinking of replacing by purchasing an OS 46AXII, but I am now thinking this Evolution 10 may be suitable. Would it fit in a BH Renegade? Would any of you chaps be able to measure the distance between the back of the engine to the rear end of the silencer please as the silencer would need to fit in the recess the Renagade has?
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