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Member postings for GrahamWh

Here is a list of all the postings GrahamWh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: BE2e
14/04/2019 17:18:14

Here is how I got the longerons bent at the right position - I cut through the ply doubler ("Don't do that it'll weaken it!" ) and applied ply braces at the relevant points with epoxy again (where the clothes pegs are). I kept these on the inside of the longerons to prevent them showing in the solartex later.



I then re-strengthened the ply doubler with a fibregalss cloth strip.



Back to the tail parts - I have at last got the main parts sanded.

sanded tail parts.jpg


I may try and lighten these as they weigh 127g already. Perhaps some more holes.

Edited By GrahamWh on 14/04/2019 17:28:09

14/04/2019 17:14:35

Having cut out the slots in the ply doublers for the formers, I made a start on the fuselage.

The longerons are of spruce, though the plan does not specifically say the lower ones are. It is assumed that they are in the April 2010 Flying Scale Models article so that'll do me.

You would like to think that having built the front part of the sides, it would be an easy matter to pull the longerones together at the tail, but no so. The plan calls for a tight bend in the upper one just behind the ply doubler which I supported with an extra ply brace epoxied in place to the left of the dotted line below.


The top view also calls of a tight sideways bend in all the longerons at the dotted line. More of that in a mo.

Anyway, the two sides came together at the front around the formers without much trouble.


The fuse. was set upright next to get the sideways bend in the formers done with clamps etc whilst keeping the centre line correct above the plan along the length of the fuse..

upright to set longs.jpg

Thread: Building Brian Taylors Cessna 120
14/04/2019 16:03:59

Great choice of pilot Dwain!

Thread: Lost radio contact
10/04/2019 17:44:17

Thanks again gentlemen.

I will think more about a new Tx Paul. I guess the pots do also wear out after some years and maybe a new one would be a good idea soon-ish.

Thanks Peter for the info re Polymorph. I'll fibreglassing the aerial this time as that's the material I have ready to hand. Even before it broke, the supplied aerial was not very good - it was too floppy and would flop to the horizontal position so it pointed at the model after a couple of year's use degrading the signal pattern the Rx would have received. Some tape even at that stage would have been an improvement, but something more long lasting like polymorph or fibreglass would be more reliable.

Thanks for the reassurance re the 700 mAh packs Denis and Andrew.

While I wait for a battery I can get into the battery box I'll put a bit of duct tape over the wire on the back of the Tx from the existing external battery to the battery box to eliminate any chance of it catching something.

I have noticed on friend's Dx6is that some have had to put a bit of tape onto the battery box cover to stop it falling off as they seem to get loose. I expect that could lead to the dry cells simply falling out if the Tx is knocked in use.

Nigel I think I will delay chucking the Rx and keep it for a lightweight electric model that will not be able to fly the distance to our boundary fence if the signal is lost to test it over time, thank you.

Edited By GrahamWh on 10/04/2019 17:48:55

10/04/2019 06:44:31

I must admit I think my Tx is now safer than a new set with dry cells and those contacts. The aerial will be done with fibreglass which will be fine, 

Does anyone have any idea if 700mAh would be sufficient for a battery - if so I could put one inside the battery box where the dry cells originally fitted rather than have this larger one fitted outside?


Edited By GrahamWh on 10/04/2019 06:54:29

09/04/2019 20:47:00

I can get a 700mAh LiFe battery that would fit inside the battery box - would that be sufficient capacity do you think? It would avoid the need for the wire outside the case to the existing LiFe battery. A new TX is not an option financially at the moment. As mentioned earlier, I will get the aerial fixed in a better way.

09/04/2019 18:58:24
Posted by Capt Kremen on 09/04/2019 17:20:17:

IF it's just the (weak) plastic 'axle' pin that's broken, (as mine has done a few times!), then it's a simple matter to insert a suitable size diameter dowel/wire.

Then, 'Robert's Your Uncle', no need to shell out circa £15-00 for a pretty plastic bagged replacement.

Yes I did this fix about 3 years ago - there was further damage later unfortunately! Thanks though.

09/04/2019 18:48:11
Posted by Simon Chaddock on 09/04/2019 14:43:25:

A point about the reliability of wires connecting a battery pack to the Tx.

Its not the solder joint that is likely to fail but the strands next to the joint from fatigue unless considerable care is taken to ensure that the individual strands cannot move using some form of strain relief.

Even then it is important that any bending of the complete wire is not concentrated to a small area close to the joint. The drawn copper wire as used in multi strand flex is significantly work hardened so is surprisingly susceptible to fatigue failure.


This is a good point Simon. I've addressed the issue in my battery box with the use of hot glue to hold the wires still between the servo connector and the solder point - more visible in the second picture of my first post than the first one. The only exposed part of this wire after the battery box lid is replaced is about 5cm long and should not flex about much:



Edited By GrahamWh on 09/04/2019 18:56:17

09/04/2019 17:47:47

Thank you very much for all your replies and advice gentlemen.

Re the aerial I will remove the tape and redo the fix with something more substantial - perhaps fibreglass. I'll think about the wires that are outside the case too - thanks for that David and the others that commented.

I have had this Tx for nearly 7 years so am not surprised some say the system as supplied is reliable. I do not want another run away though and will not risk it this way again.

I did consider putting a smaller LiFe battery into the battery box itself, but the only one I saw on HK that would fit this 55x45x15mm space was a 700mAh job, which I thought would be a bit small. I would not consider a LiPo due to the potential damage if over discharged and the fire risk of charging in situ.

Does any one have any thoughts as to the suitability of a 700mAh LiFe - the one I fitted was 2100mAh? Again, any advice much appreciated.

Edited By GrahamWh on 09/04/2019 17:51:56

Thread: Magnum 52 FS Speeds Up When The Exhaust Pressure Pipe Is Disconnected.
08/04/2019 21:22:17

How did the Baron event go David? Your links elsewhere to previous ones look interesting. Did the engine go okay?

Thread: Acrowot with laser 80
08/04/2019 21:17:35

Very neat work Tim and thanks for answering about the airflow around the carb as it is something I have often thought about in the past.

Thread: Lost radio contact
08/04/2019 21:06:50

I was flying a Flair Fokker D7 last weekend using a Spektrum Dx6i radio and lost control of the model which happily headed off in a straight line over the boundary fence of the field and out of view as I played frantically with the sticks trying to get control back.

Fortunately the failsafe was set to idle (ic power rather than electric) and the model descended into the ground in the next field. Quite a bit of damage but repairable.

The RX battery was still on and showing good voltage (6.56 volts with a 2s LiFe) and when I got it all back to our pits area we did a range check and all was well on all the controls.

The Rx will not be used again just in case it was that, but when I got home I decided to change the Tx batteries as although they were still at 5.1v a fresh set might be better. When I put the new ones in the set would not power on. I fiddled with the battery compartment, resetting the contacts to improve their tension, and cleaned them with alcohol and got the set to come on, but it kept going off and on again if I touched the batteries.

I think the battery connectors in the battery box might have got too worn or slightly corroded and possibly a momentary loss of contact may have caused the loss of radio control of the model.

Any one else noticed this with their Dx6i or other Tx with dry cell battery box?

Any way, I have soldered a servo lead connector to the battery box contacts and plugged in a LiFe battery to the Tx with the battery connected to the rear of it with tie clips.


Some plastic cornering protects the soft edges of the battery from the tension of the tie clips to prevent damage and a bit of double sided tape helps prevent slippage behind the battery.


I must admit it was pretty frightening to see the plane fly off to who knows where - whenever I have crashed before it had I think been my own fault for stalling or something like that.

Is this why more modern sets use battery packs rather than single cells and do you think there is anything else I should check? ( The Rx and its satellite will be replaced).

Edited By GrahamWh on 08/04/2019 21:08:25

Thread: Another Millennium Bug?
05/04/2019 16:28:28

At the end of 1999 I was working abroad in a developing country. The Americans were told by their embassy to stock pile so many gallons of petrol, loads of food stuffs, etc etc. The British embassy just told us Brits to make sure we had a couple of litres of water put by in case!

Thread: Prymol
04/04/2019 20:45:07

Sorry David - it's grey. I have some here from a car bumper repair I had to do.

Thread: What's your do everything model, or do you have one of everything?
03/04/2019 21:32:13

Biplane for me - low and slow with four stroke engine. Puppeteer usually.

Thread: Spring is here. Who is flying?
31/03/2019 14:27:48

Flair Puppeteer on Saturday. Back to the slow low flying I like with biplanes. Flew the mended Bristol Scout and the Flair Fokker D7 with old OS surpass engine last weekend. It does take a bit long to dismantle 2 biplanes though!

Thread: Straightening a Twisted Fuselage
30/03/2019 22:32:06

If you can do so without breaking anything and if the amount of twist is only a few degrees, then you could try twisting it back straight and a little bit more the other way, then holding everything like that perhaps in a jig, go over all of the covering again with a covering iron to re-set the covering. When it is all cool, release the jig and see if it is straight again. This can work for wings that are a bit warped. It may be a fix that you have to do again after some months or if the model sits in the sun for a long time and the film starts to sag and therefore release its tension.

Thread: Magnum 52 FS Speeds Up When The Exhaust Pressure Pipe Is Disconnected.
30/03/2019 17:02:11

Hi David - as the fuel is no longer being forced from the tank by exhaust pressure, the mixture in the carb is becoming leaner. The carb must have been set to run a bit rich beforehand.

By the way, how's the BE2e going?.



Thread: Crankcase breather/. 4stroke
28/03/2019 20:28:58

Thanks Jon - very reassuring - I'm a bit too lazy to do much other than run dry at the end of a session. It takes ages just dismantling and cleaning my biplanes anyway! I'll watch the rockers on my ASP and OS engines and be more careful re the low needle settings. Thanks for bringing the topic up fly boy3.


Edited By GrahamWh on 28/03/2019 20:30:05

Thread: BE2e
26/03/2019 19:45:18

I'm part way through sanding down the tail plane and fin etc. to shape, but being a little bored of that and curious as to how I'm going to proceed with the fuselage, I've decided to make a start on the preparations for that part of the build.

Roy's build article fuselage section starts off with cutting slots in the ply doublers for formers 3 and 5.

However, cutting them as per plan would have the doublers cut almost in half from top to bottom at former 5, the top coinciding with a cut out for a cross piece of 1/4" balsa - marked with a "?" on the photo. I will adjust the former and the slot to avoid this, and if at any point I want to strengthen the joint I'll put in a balsa fillet or a little bit of fibreglass and epoxy.

change doubler slot.jpg

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