Here is a list of all the postings PeterF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How many times a week do you get to pop down the patch?|
As with others it varies, been once per week for past 3 weeks, but tjen if work and weather are not kind then once per month.
So far there is a bimodal distribution, is that retirees multiple flying days per week and workers, multiple weeks between flying days.
|Thread: Eneloop battery|
They are Nimh, I have used the AAA 800mAh ones for Rx power only on Hitec Optimas using either BEC or larger battery for the servo power to make sure of no brown outs. Have gone OK with that and they do hold their charge well.
I aldo have a AA 2000mAh pack in the Tx.
|Thread: Peterf's 1/4 scale Falcon Models Tiger Moth|
Manish, thanks for the warning, covering is a long way off for me.
|Thread: Urgent and important petition - Please sign|
As a club secretary I have put this into this months email I circulate within the club.
I have flown a few times at Rolls Royce Hucknall site as a guest knowing some people in the club and do not want to see other clubs suffering similar fates.
|Thread: Peterf's 1/4 scale Falcon Models Tiger Moth|
That is a neat arrangement for the hinge pin locks. At the moment I am not sure what to do now I have gone over to the dark side until I sort out motor mount and battery location as the engine cowl may need to be opened for battery access and I can not do that unit I have a finished plane and know where the CofG is going to be. I hope that you glue is compatible with the glass fibre, I have had difficulty in the past getting glue to take to mouldings but that may have been polyurethane resin and I believe the ones in the kit are epoxy resin, but worth making sure.
Ron, thanks for showing us the way.
The ribs are only 18mm thick in the Falcon Models kit which is to shallow for a low profile servo with the disc flush with the lower surface, I have looked long and hard. People building the quarter scale Duncan Hutson (Traplet) and Flair Moths can do this as the wings on those planes are thicker than scale.
The only concern I have with putting a servo on its side (I did consider this) is that the arm will be short and any slop could be quite large at the ailerons. Perhaps ball joints would help reduce this along with a quality servo with minimal backlash.
I do not know if my scheme will be any better as I am yet to design it in any detail.
Re the differential, isnt it up and no down. The photo shows it is set up the right way on the plane.
Thanks for the bearing info, I will consider this when I come to develop mine. The offset on the disc is exactly true to scale, at neutral the control arm ball joint is at 45 degree towards the front of the wing and the disc rotates approx. 90 degree either way. This means that the ball joint moves towards the rear of the wing to give a lot of up aileron. For down aileron it moves initially until it is fully forward with 45 degree of rotation, giving about 1/5 as much down aileron as up. As the disc then continues to rotate from 45 to 90 degree, the down going aileron start to rise back to neutral as the ball joint will be trvalling back towards the rear of the wing. See attached link.
Manish & Ron,
I will go out and buy a hair shirt tomorrow.
Here are a few general shots of the model at the moment, as I said before, no progress since earlier in June. The engine has been removed though and has now been sold. I have decided to complete it as an electric model, I have bought a suitable 2500W motor (Hyperion ZS4035-10) and 100 Amp ESC for 6S cells, plus I already have suitable battery packs that I use in other models. Over the past year I have been flying more and more electric and my glow models have started to become hangar queens.
That looks good and some time at Shoreham to boot. I hope all goes well at Hastings and I am sure that you (sorry the plane) will get lots of admirers.
I have not been at home much since the last post, a lot of time travelling for work and some vacation so little shed time. What I have had has been taken up putting a new small F3A model together and flying that when I get the chance. I'll be back in the shed towards the end of the summer probably.
|Thread: Motor tests|
You are right, which is why I called them marketing values. I like the Dilbert cartoon where before he could go into the marketing department he had to remove his soul. I too am an engineer (not electrical) and apologise if some of the reply was egg sucking instructions. More caution is definitely required in electrics, and any newcomers are advised to consider something like ecalc or motocalc to investigate power options.
I am not sure the information is conflicting, the advert has really used the marketing version of information stating the maximum possible rather than the continuous rating. The data behind the motor as supplied states clearly that 40 amps is the continuous limit. The information on the RCME states the weight as 195g and a rule of thumb for the continuous power out of a motor of this size is 3W per gram of motor which gives 600W, but you have to know the rule of thumb. The other clue is that the OS site lists the slightly smaller 3820 as equivalent to a 25 sized glow engine, so the 3825 is going to be a 30, you would not expect a 30 size engine to run a 15x7, the only difference in a glow engine, the revs just sag badly when over proposed, the fuel source is limited, a motor will just keep trying to turn a larger and larger prop regardless and the fuel source is not unlimited until the smoke arrives.
|Thread: Flair Etrich Taube|
I built one of these around 10 years ago and it has been flying a lot since then, my favourite warm summer afternoon flyer on a cool day. I have an OS 40 four stroke in mine, a bit overkill but running a 12x5 prop you can putter around the sky for ages at 1/3 throttle and it sound just so cool. Everyone at the club admires it so I thoroughly recommend building one.
I did not add ailerons to mine and after as long as I have had mine, I have not felt the need to have them fitted, with so much dihedral I am not sure how effective ailerons would be anyway as they would be fighting the inherent stability.
The one thing I did do that was not on the kit was to add bracing wires from the top and bottom of the fin post to the back of the tailplane. I found that the tailplane as flexible and when you pulled full elevator it actually bent the tailplane down, which was more effective at diving the plane than the elevator was at climbing it. It cost me a nose area rebuild to find that out. The bracing wires are not present in these photos which were taken before I had my learning experience.
|Thread: EBay Ads by Forum Members|
Having a bit of a clear out of engines as I am flying more and more electric
2 x used RCV60SP engines plus in cowl Genesis silencers and props
Brand new unused Laser 150, current model
Master Airscrew 16 x 8 Classic series propeller to go with the Laser 150
Magic Fun Fly, complete with RMX48 engine, servos, RX battery & props, just add Rx and fly
|Thread: Peterf's 1/4 scale Falcon Models Tiger Moth|
I looked around for linear servos but did not find anything that was small enough, the type you have located would fit, however they are a little slow and low force. It makes you realise that our servos are cheap in comparison. I have now committed to the almost completely scale actuation, so have stopped looking for other options.
The sketch attached shows the hook up I plan. I will put a wheel or a drum in the wings connected to a disc flush to the bottom of the wing surface with the offset ball joint for the torque rod. The drum will be actuated by a closed loop wire pull pull system. One end of the wire attaches to the aileron control arm I have made from epoxy glass, the other end attaches to the aileron return arm. This is mirrored on the second side. Hence the closed loop is control arm to LHS drum to return arm to RHS drum to control arm. The aileron return arm is like an idler shaft / pulley on a drive belt, it just keeps everything running in the correct location but is not powered. The return arm is present on the full size. I have not got the details such as what the wheels / drums will be like and how to make the removable connections to the control and return arms yet. However, I do know from calcs that the drums will need to be 12.5mm, the sprocket in the full size is 2" dia for the chain centre and I will also have to make longer aileron control arms at 29mm as I believe the ones in the kit are shorter than scale.
The undercarriage kit in the Falcon Models kit is functionally very close to scale and can be bought with all the silver soldering completed leaving very little work to be done by the modeller. I bought the tyres and wheels from Traplet from the Duncan Hutson Tiger Moth kit as these are very scale, better than the generic ones offered as part of the Falcon Kit. They come with moulded lettering and a pair of hub covers with the DH logo on. The hub covers were screwed on with the tiny tiny Mick Reeves screws. The ends of the main legs, the cross brace and the forward links all needed filing round at the ends to avoid clashes. The wheels I have are slightly thinner in the bosses than the length of the bolts, so I made the threads inside the tube deeper. Some of the holes needed opening up slightly to take the bolts. The fairings were added from balsa. The rods between the central cross brace arms and the rear mounting bracket are shown on the plan as using quick links, at the moment I have followed the plan and used Sullivan quick links that have a locking clip on them to make sure they can not pop open with landing loads, no way do I want some silicone fuel tube on them to keep them closed. I may change this to something more scale in the future. All that remains is trimming some of the bolts to length.
The bottom cowl is held on with 4 countersunk 2mm machine screws. The 2 rear screws thread into T nuts which are mounted to the ply pad which is the front section of the control tunnel. The front 2 screws thread into T nuts that have had the flange removed leaving the internally threaded barrels. These barrels have been glued into blocks of wood that have been glued to the plywood backing piece on the front cowl. These blocks are required, because as I noted above I sanded off the lower lip from the front cowl by mistake. The photos should add to the description.
Whilst I am here putting bits up on the cowl, I have completed the catches in a scale like manner. 2mm holes are drilled through the side frames to take some 2mm pushrod offcuts that have had a semi circular end bent onto them. These are passed through the holes in the side frames and a length of spring bolted on to the pushrod with a nyloc nut. Some spacing pads have been added to make sure that the door shuts into the correct position with respect to the lower section of the cowl. They then work exactly like the scale catches.
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