Here is a list of all the postings PeterF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Digital incidence meter|
I have bought one of the ebay inclinometers, slightly different to the one you linked to, see here.
This has a magnetic base as do many of them, so I fastened a small steel sheet (galvanised) onto the top of the measurement rail with epoxy. It works a treat. Set up all the flying wires on my Tiger Moth with this.
I did initially set my Tiger Moth rigging up with my android tablet using the "Clinometer + bubble level" app, but found that the weight of the tablet was significant. I also found that over a long period of use as the tablet warmed up, the zero drifted and it was not repeatable.
|Thread: Good lipo charger|
I use the icharger 106b, I have a couple that are 6 or so years old and have been reliable. They are at the upper end of your price range though. Based on my good experience with these when I started to fly large electric I stayed with the icharger brand and bought a 4010 duo.
|Thread: Electric setup advice|
If it is the Hornet noted above, then the set up I gave above with an 11 x 6 prop for starters. The recommended motor has a kV of 650 so would spin the prop more slowly than your 800kV motor, hence keep the prop size down a bit to limit the power output.
For ground clearance, you can measure from centre of spinner to ground, but as the nose gear is often sprung with a coil in the wire leg, you need to allow a good 2" of clearance, perhaps more for a heavy landing when the nose wheel bends quite a lot to absorb the shock.
Also, if it is the one shown then you will not need to make alterations to the model for the electric conversion as it already has a hatch for the battery between the wing and the firewall.
Running the set up through e-calc, an on line electric set up calculator, the Ripmax Quantum 40 motor on 4S battery as you have shown will give an rpm of around 10,000rpm. Run this with an 11 x 6 prop and you will get a current draw of about 37A (well within motor and ESC specs and battery capability) giving just over 500W, which will be good for a 5lb weight trainer. If you then develop your skills, the prop could easily be increased to a 12 x 7 which would draw 52A (still in specs for motor, ESC and battery) giving 700W and aerobatic performance. As others have stated, you can not use the program card to limit the motor output, you do this by changing the prop size. One thing with electric is that the motor tries top turn at the same rpm whatever the prop that is fitted, so if you fit too large a prop it draws too much current / power and blows the motor or the ESC. Likewise, in your case fitting a smaller propeller does not allow the motor to rev faster, if you fitted too small a prop on an IC engine then it would scream.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Love the alternative decals, was it an inspired choice given the clack and yellow colour or is there really a Yak with JCB logos. It should fly like a rocket with the 30cc engine in it, hope you have lots of fun with it.
|Thread: Wing walkways|
I used paint with micro balloons for the walkways on my Tiger Moth, see my build, **LINK**
|Thread: BMFA News Feb 2019|
I participated in Archery before I became involved in model flying, and even in the late 1980s early 1990s archery maintained a level of continued competency for coaches, there was at the time no equivalent of examiners. Coaching certificates were valid for 3 years and at the end of that period of time you had to be able to demonstrate by means of keeping a log that you had been active in coaching and attended workshops etc. If at the end of the 3 year period you had not demonstrated that you had been a practising coach, then your certificate was not renewed. I gained my basic coaching certificate after a series of around 6 2 hour sessions and then an assessment by a regional / national level coach. When I stopped participating seriously in archery my coaching certificate automatically lapsed and if I wished to regain this then I would have to go back to going through the full cycle of coaching workshop sessions.
See page 51, column 2, para 3, questionnaire will be sent out to individual examiners once the data is entered into the Go Membership system, but this does not mention a date, merely that it will happen after the data is processed.
Edited By PeterF on 26/01/2019 21:53:43
|Thread: What does your wife or significant other half think of your hobby?|
I am well set with my wife, she grew up with her father and brother flying RC and it was those two fine gentlemen who got me involved in model flying. Unluckily we live away from my in laws so getting to fly with them is an infrequent event. She has her hobbies too, gardening and paper / card crafting and that equally racks up the pounds, I am always amazed at how much quality paper and card stock costs as well as all the dies and embossing stamps. But then she is amazed at what balsa wood costs. What has turned out to be a useful cross fertilisation is she has a CNC cutter and I found I could use it for all the lettering and paint masks on the quarter scale Tiger Moth I completed last year.
|Thread: Heated Lipo Bag?|
I have 3 of the same Turnigy ones as linked by John in the post above. They work well and I would not be without them.
For example I have an EDF model that pulls 100A from 5000mAh batts and launches direct from a ramp, no bungy. Summer time on a calm day it rockets off. Winter without using the heating bags, on a calm day, it sags after leaving the ramp and almost gets to the grass before enough speed has developed, nervous times. Also, the low voltage telemetry alarm is sounding until the packs warm up. Winter when using the heating bags = summer.
I can also notice a difference in other power critical applications, or ones such as F3A style where accurate throttle management is vital, the throttle stick has to be much higher in the winter, hence pre-warming the batteries gives a much more consistent throttle throughout the season.
|Thread: Receiver Backup Power|
For higher current rating than the OptiPower, Jeti have one version for pair of ESCs or one ESC with a battery
and another version for a pair of batteries
Personally, I have made my own using schottky diodes.
|Thread: BMFA club finder|
I thought that I would check up on this after 4 weeks and found that today I could use the club finder and see the clubs on the map or as a list when I was one of the people for whom it did not work in December, so it appears to be sorted. Thanks Andy.
|Thread: BMFA Classifieds?.|
There is a menu, one choice is "manage your adverts". On PCs this is at the upper right from memory, on mobile devices it is at the bottom of the page. This gets you to another page which has the option "my active listings" under which is "new classified listing". This gets you to the page to put all the advert details in.
Edited By PeterF on 04/01/2019 23:09:14
|Thread: Mosquito Cof G|
Is this the Seagull one, some people have been using a CoG of 130mm back from the leading edge not the 150mm in the manual to reduce the pitch sensitivity. I have a Brain Taylor one, and the CoG on that is further forward than the seagull one, 140mm from the front of the upper radiator inlet and my BT flies really well without being pitch sensitive. Mine balanced slightly nose down at 140mm with empty fuel tanks and retracts up, so the actual CoG was slightly less than 140mm. Some BT Mossie's have flown with the CoG around 125mm or so and these have also flown well. The BT model has some wash out built in and I have not needed reflex.
Edited By PeterF on 25/12/2018 22:24:08
|Thread: Gatwick drone incident|
And if you have seen the video of a small drone puncturing the leading edge skin of a commercial planes wing in the US university test, you might be a little more reluctant to be on a plane with drones in the same airspace.
|Thread: IC and Electric|
I started flying about 18 years ago and always ran a mixture of electric and modest sized IC, converting from NiCad and brushed motors to LiPo and brushless as time passed. Then about 3-4 years ago I decided to swap over completely to electric, but rather than selling on all my favourite IC airframe, I converted them to electric. This included an eclectic mix,
Flair Lark, a 60" 70 4 stroke F3A style
When I converted them I based the motor choices on what rpm and propellor I was currently using, choosing the motor KV so I continued to use the same sized prop at a similar rpm. I located batteries to give the same CoG. although the weight distribution may have been different, the moment of inertia on elevator response could have been different. The other thing I should note is that on all of my IC planes, I had set a throttle curve using a tachometer to give linear rpm relationship to throttle position.
I can say that I noticed very little difference in changing from IC to electric, but then I had eliminated 2 of the key things people have pointed out above, i.e. linear electric throttle response vs non linear IC throttle response and electric often using larger slower revving props. One thing I have noticed is that electric motors have a faster response to the throttle, especially when using electric props which are lighter than the IC equivalents. The other difference is of course the zero throttle issue, which has not bothered me on the smaller planes listed above, but more on this below.
The largest conversion I have to date is a quarter scale tiger moth, I removed a Laser 150 before it had even seen a drop of fuel and installed a 1600-1700W motor which I believe is equivalent in power (yes I know, sacrilege), but I decided to go down in rpm to fit a scale 18" diameter prop with a larger pitch. This flies fine with electric but I have no cross reference. The one thing that I did with this was to add a pseudo tick over on a switch, because the airframe is so draggy, coming in without any throttle was not a good move, also on touching down, there was no prop wash over the controls to avoid nosing over if the grass was too long or damp. in this case, operating it as straight electric would have been a bit of a problem.
I currently have my 82" Brian Taylor Mosquito on the bench changing over from 2 x RCV60SP engines to electric, same conversion basis as previous models, keep the same prop and rpm by choice of motor KV. Because this was the SP RCV engines, they ran at half speed anyway and I ran with around 6,000rpm, so this fits nicely with electric. This will be re-maidened early next year and I do not expect there to be much difference, but I may well end up setting a pseudo tick over on this was well.
Edited By PeterF on 19/12/2018 22:01:17
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Looks like a pusher, motor shaft at rear, air vent above the nose, nice looking model, my son has just bought a 3D printer, I will have to try this out.
|Thread: BMFA club finder|
I get nowhere in an incognito window in Chrome, but as was mentioned earlier, if I am logged into the Go portal as a member and then look for a new club then the pop up window club finder works OK.
Tried to zoom in to no avail. The search is just not working not just the map because if I press the list button then I do not even get a list of clubs.
Can any one else that the search fails for check the list option.
I have tried Internet explorer, Edge, Chrome plus on my Amazon Fire tablet, Silk and I can not find any clubs at all, however, the map does centre in on the location I choose and shows the search area but never any clubs, see the no clubs in London map. There must be something different in peoples set ups that either allows this to work or not, perhaps ISP or security settings. I will mention this to Andy Symons at tomorrow nights training session on the Go membership system.
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