Here is a list of all the postings ron evans has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: V tail question|
Hi Tim, it would seem that rules out pilot induced roll, and if it rolls in a dive without elevator input, asymmetric elevator response as well.
Assuming tailplane halves are in the same plane, a small warp, or less likely, aerodynamic distortion, is the probable culprit.
Well gentlemen, how about pulling out of the dive inverted.
If it's a miss match or a one sided weakness on the elevators, it should roll in the opposite direction...maybe.
Just a thought, but wouldn't a warped wing in a vertical dive from a good height, start to roll before before pulling out.
Could it be that when pulling out of the dive, the extra load is twisting one wing half more than the other.
I had this with a Phoenix when one wing half was less dense than the other.
As previously mentioned, if you fly mode 2, it is easy to inadvertently nudge a bit of roll in the heat of high speed pull out.
|Thread: Phoenix 2000|
Ebird, mine was the same.
The fix I used was to mount the 2200 on a strip of plastic, like a ruler, and then the battery could be slid under the wing, the strip held in place with velcro on the normal battery mount.
Not my idea but it works without ballast at the back, mine was the original version.
Edited By ron evans on 31/07/2020 09:42:19
"Soon be as common as muck"....Too true, but I would have sold my granny for one when I was a kid.
Float around on high, or throw it about like you were Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair. And cheap as chips as well!.
Tosh, still have the volantex in the 2K, and still going strong, although I prefer the 1600 as it is more aerobatic. when fitted with the Blaze 1150kv motor which bolted to the nose without mods.
Edited By ron evans on 27/07/2020 11:40:03
Jeff, on your BG refund.
PatMc, my P2K had no weight box. in fact with the big volantex motor up front, the battery needs to be under the wing to get the cg right.
Same with the 1600 with a 3536.
Good luck with BG Jeffrey
Had a quick look at the reviews, and no complaints about lack of power. With the v1 HK uprated to a larger motor, hard to believe they'd go back to a smaller one.
One reviewer used a 4s 2200, giving unlimited vertical !!
May be a misprint. Grab one and find out
John, your 28dia motor obviously works well for you, and a lighter motor is good too as the P2K does tend to be nose heavy.
My 1600 came with a 28 dia motor turning the 10x6 folder, but got too hot on 3 cells with poor performance.
I considered a longer 28 with a lower kv, but in my experience a bigger motor drawing the same current will usually be more effective, so I fitted a 35dia one.
Bigger motors will usually have a higher max Watt rating than a smaller one, and usually stay cooler, loosing less energy at the same current on the same prop.
|Thread: Effect of thicker wing tips.|
About 40 years ago I made a Hawk for PSS. Quite a taper on the wings, I made the tips E374, but the root with the same section was much too thick.
A mate who was clever with computers printed out the section at 80% of the original and that looked a lot better.
In pecentage terms the tip was thicker than the root, and I'm not sure if this was the reason, but the low speed handling was very good.
I was able to hold in full up all mover. and the model would just sink with enough aileron authority to keep the wings level.
the model is still in the attic...must refurb one day.
|Thread: Phoenix 2000|
Tosh, I'm with David on motor size, get one at least 35mm dia, it will be a lot more effective than something smaller.
One thing to watch out for is the way motors are described.
My Emax BL 28/20 is actually 38mm o/d.
The 28/20 refers to the stator diameter and length.
Edited By ron evans on 23/07/2020 14:30:15
|Thread: (Last) Flight of the Phoenix|
Lindsay, if you read my posts, you'll see my P2K suffered almost terminal wing twist in a dive, caused by lack of stiffness, now completely cured by covering the wing with laminating film, with a huge increase in torsional strength.
Tosh, the laminate I used is heavier than solarfilm but much stronger. I don't think the P2K soaring ability was effected by the extra ounce or two.
75micons is one of the heavier films in model use, the slope lads use it to cover combat wings to make them bullet proof. lighter film around 40microns is available.
My motor is the original, and still going strong, as are the servos. Both of my phoenix are flown through all the aerobatics I can manage (I soon get bored thermaling ) and none of control surfaces or linkages have shown a problem, although with laminating, hinges are strengthened.
When I got the 1600, the 28mm motor was very weak. A mate had given me a motor from a crashed blaze, so I fitted that with a bigger ESC. It's about 35mm dia x 35mm long and 1100 kv.
Even with the battery as far back as I could get it, the cg was too far forward, so i laminated the tail feathers too.
Another plus for laminate is It's easier to keep the model clean. If you fly from a muddy field, foam soon gets grubby, but when laminated the wings stay as white as when new.
Edited By ron evans on 23/07/2020 10:21:54
Edited By ron evans on 23/07/2020 10:34:59
Tosh. my rolls of laminating film were 75microns x 300mm x 150mtr, about 5yrs ago from EBAY £25, given most of it away now, club mates love it.
Lots of tutorials online how to use on foam and built up models.
On my P2K it really added lots of torsional strength to the wings, and I can only conclude that they were twisting in the high speed dive, the ailerons being ineffective.
Another advantage is the film stiffens the ailerons, and forms the hinge, the roll rate was much improved.
It would seem most people haven't had this problem, and the three other examples in our club are fine.
Just bad luck to buy a duff one.
I had a similar issue with my P2K. In a dive it would roll and tuck out of control, only saved by height, or rudder, or once by letting it roll inverted and pushing out of the dive
I went through the same process as you, servos? ...linkage?....gremlins?
Comparing the wings on mine to a mates example I noticed that the sun showed through much more on mine than his, and seemed to be of lower density.
I bought some laminating film from EBAY and covered the wings with it, and that completely cured the problem.
It will now dive from height with a rock steady gradual recovery by itself. I have the CG well back with the battery under the wing to reduce the power on zoom. Every thing else is standard.
I've since picked up a secondhand 1600 and given it the same treatment
Edited By ron evans on 22/07/2020 20:07:48
|Thread: Fly aways|
Peter, horrible feeling seeing a model fly away....it's a wonder I didn't push the button through the back of the case, but to no avail.
Only had 2 real fly aways ( o.o.s. lost ) my first rc model and my first electric.
Back in the sixties I built a small sc model with a ME Heron diesel and RCS radio. As it gained height I though I had it and then I didn't. That diesel seemed to run for ever, and it disappeared a dot in the sky over the wooded valley, never to be seen again.
About 20 years ago I built a 67"model, my first electric, to take some aerial photos. Very little power, but it did the job. Some years later I flew the model again, but half way through the flight control and power was lost.
The model flew on across our huge field and into the wooded valley. Despite a couple of days searching we couldn't find it. Then a week later a dog walker spotted it and some of the lads recovered it with no damage.
Back on the bench everything seemed ok, so I changed the RX, and tried again, this time keeping it low in a large circle.
Five minuets gone by and I let climb a little when it happened again. This time it made a decent landing by itself.
Turned out it was the BEC wot dun it, so I installed a new brushles power train, now 1/2 pound lighter and a lot more power It's my favorite hack, and got my B with it.
Edited By ron evans on 18/07/2020 11:07:42
|Thread: Lightwight foam cowl, Tissue with EZE Dope or thinned PVA?|
Hi Erfolg, thanks for the pics, but the model was finished and flown some time back. See my photos.
I too seem to be using WBP varnish more and more. my last build in the lockdown used it with coloured tissue on balsa. A nice hard finish and easy cleanup.
+ 1 for glass cloth and WBP. I've used it on a few models with different types of foam, and it works really well.
This hollowed out blue foam fuz was quite flimsy before glass cloth and Wilko varnish, and it takes compound curves easily. The weave is then filled with a varnish/lightweight filler mix and light sanding in between. Balsa wing finished with the same mix.
Edited By ron evans on 04/07/2020 11:50:58
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