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Member postings for Andy Sephton 1

Here is a list of all the postings Andy Sephton 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)
20/02/2019 09:35:20

No probs Jim and you're welcome.

Next job for me was to fix the rigging points to the wing. I started by epoxying the bent bracket to the spar, then, when dry, I bound it in place and fitted the ply plate over the top.

Epoxied rigging brackets:

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I used simple whipping to bind the bracket to the spar. It's a knotting technique that I learned in the Cubs back in nineteen fifty something (sounds a lot better in words than figures...). If you haven't used it before, it's worth a look. It gives a neat result, it keeps the binding taught and it ties it off without slackening. There's a good diagram here:

https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/common-whipping

..and here's how I applied it to the Fury.

Equipment used was some strong thread that I acquired at an aero-jumble some years ago, a 'heavy' needle, masking tape, and a runny adhesive to spread over the binding to ensure its stability.

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I used a loop of the thread to stop it slipping off the needle and to half the number of loops I had to make around the spar. First off, a further loop was made in the thread which was temporarily fixed to the spar with the masking tape.

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Then holding the loop in place, I started to wind the thread around the spar. The binding is pulled tight on each loop and held with the fingers. Note how the first go around the spar fixes the position of the initial loop.

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The last loop then goes through the initial loop and is pulled taught:

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The initial loop is then pulled closed to hold the binding in place. I pull it so that the free end of the binding goes under the binding to ensure that it's held securely

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The free ends are then cut.

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Finally, some aliphatic resin was smoothed over the thread to seal it in place.

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The job is finished by adding the ply plate over the top. The rigging bracket will be bent down to suit after the wing is covered.

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I can now get back to adding the capping strips, which is where this little job started!

Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 20/02/2019 09:38:49

Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
19/02/2019 07:20:17

I've not got that far yet Danny wink

I used blocks in the wings as a land for the hinge points and drilled them and the aileron spars to suite. I've glued the hinges to the tubes and that is how they remain. I'm going to cover the fuselage and aileron before fitting, so the hinges won't be glued in place until then. Notwithstanding, I'll probably plagiarise your method to get the right position.

Thread: Elan 100 Build
17/02/2019 18:21:17

Now that the fuselage has been opined and the wing root panels constructed, I can use them to set up the brass tubes for wing joining. Here's a view form below

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Once the cyano on the brass tubes had gone off, all the joints were smeared with epoxy. The wings were removed and the rear fuselage sheeting added:

img_8912.jpeg

Unfortunately the front fuselage sheeting was too narrow for the fuselage and so had to be replaced - in fact, the three fuselage formers supplied were wider than they should have been, making the fuselage too wide for the provided sheeting.

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Leading edge sheet was added to the underside of all the wing panels - the four inner panels are shown here. The sheeting is held in place with scrap 1/4" and 5/16" strip

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...and while that was drying, the wing retaining band hooks were fixed to 1.4" round balsa and glued to the wing root:

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Thread: Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)
17/02/2019 18:09:39

Making the aileron shroud has allowed me to start adding the capping strips....but it's also flagged up some omissions on the plan.

First off, the fairing at the aileron root is relatively unsupported. Nevertheless, it remains pretty stiff, so I'll probably leave it as is.

img_8900.jpeg

The next omission is the lack of balsa between the aileron cut out and the wing tip. Part S1 between the aileron shroud and the TE and part S2 are not thick enough and need to be built up with 1/16" balsa both top and bottom.

img_8908.jpeg

Here's a view from the TE showing the added balsa on top of S2. Balsa below S2 is yet to be added.

img_8902.jpeg

..and this time from above on the other wing

img_8907.jpeg

Meanwhile, I've been adding capping strips to the ailerons and using UHU Hart in an attempt to keep the adhesive weight down.

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I temporarily lost the 1/4" Paxolin plate for the engine mount, so having found it yesterday, I marked it out ready for cutting for the Laser 70.

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...and finally, I nearly forgot to add the strut supports and rigging wire lands to the wings before finishing the capping strips. I started to saw the parts off the brass sheet, but in the end, used a pair of clippers to get the release started, then pulled the parts away by bending backwards and forwards until the tabs failed. The tabs were then filed off and the required bend put into the part using a pair of round tyne pliers. A test fit was then essayed onto the ply parts that will be attached to the wing. The brass parts will need to be bound to the spars first, but I wanted to make sure they fitted the holes in the ply fairings.

img_9559.jpeg

Thread: Colinís Spanish Fury
17/02/2019 17:42:46

You did nothing wrong Jim, but you did demonstrate a characteristic of meths - it evaporates quickly. I use paraffin or any available oil. Cooking oil works and so does WD-40. Just make sure you protect your building board with cling film or similar and also protect the model from the oil on the plan. Whatever you use, it'll dry out eventually and go opaque ... but it'll retain the smell for some time!

Thread: Elan 100 Build
13/02/2019 13:56:40

I'm finding this one to be a very enjoyable build. As a consequence, it's progressing well. The next photo shows one of the tip panels under construction:

img_8866.jpeg

..Which has left me with 6 wing panels

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The fuselage ends were then joined:

 

img_8867.jpeg

img_8873.jpeg

 

and while that lot was drying the empennage was laid down:

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Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 13/02/2019 13:57:46

Thread: Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)
13/02/2019 13:40:27

I've been working on the aileron cut-out in the wing over the past few days. Once that's done I can start adding the rib capping strips.

The following photos show my perception of how the cut-out should be dressed. Essentially, there's a strip of 1/4" triangle balsa at the top. This is capped by a strip of 1/16" x 15mm cross grained balsa to create a shroud. The aileron root cutout is also strengthened by a strip of 1/16" x 15mm, but this time the grain is along the long edge. Underneath, the cutout is outlined by a strip of 1/16" x 1/8" to bring the sub-spar into line with the rib capping strips. The photos should tell the story:

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img_8898.jpegimg_8892.jpeg

Looking ahead to the rib capping strips, I did a rough quantity check and discovered that it'll take some thirty five 36" lengths of 1/8" x 1/16" to cap all the ribs. So, to save a bit of balsa, I've started stripping the remains from the laser-cut wood into 1/16" x 1/8" strips. The stripper is available from SAMS Models.

img_8899.jpeg

11/02/2019 20:20:22

As Danny rightly said, Jim, I'm mounting the engine on a 1/4" paxolin plate. The bearers are in the position shown on the plan, which, with a 1/4" mounting plate, will put the engine thrust line in the correct place. The perspective of the photo in the above post makes it look as iff the bearers are level with the engine mounting lugs, which they are not.

Thread: How can I reverse a plan to build two wing halves
08/02/2019 18:07:02

If you use oil, don't forget to protect your building board and the model with some cling film or similar. I've used cooking oil in the past, when there was nothing else to hand, but on my latest model I'm using WD-40 - it's easy to spray on!

see pic number 5 in post number 6 in the following thread: https://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=140631

Thread: Elan 100 Build
08/02/2019 17:48:41

I really ought to be doing Danny Wynne Fenton's Fury rather than this one....but it's such a good kit that it's too good to miss!

The build progresses with a check of the drilled holes in the ribs and fuselage to make sure all lines up as it should....img_8846.jpeg

.....then each of six separate wing panels. Thanks for the above comments, but i've used the oiling method to see though plans since the 60s, so that's what I used here. In this case it was WD-40, but I've successfully used cooking oil in the past when there was nothing else to hand. The only essential thing I'd recommend is to cover both the building board and the plan with clingfilm to prevent contamination of the board and model with the oil.

Right inner panel first - I use engineer's squares to support the ribs to ensure they remain square while they are drying

img_8847.jpeg

img_8851.jpeg

As recommended in the instructions, the LE sheeting is glued in place with the wing still on the board. I use scrap 6mm balsa to help hold the sheeting in place while the glue dries. Not shown in the pic, but the front of the spars have been webbed with 1.5mm balsa

img_8854.jpeg

Left inner panel next - note reverse of plan 'oiled' with WD-40.

img_8857.jpeg

Right middle panel next:

img_8865.jpeg

While the wing sheeting was drying, I used the engineers squares to set up three of the fuselage formers:

img_8861.jpeg

and when those were dry, the two fuselage sides were joined. (I really must dig out my SLEC building jig....it would have been ideal for this job!)

img_8863.jpeg

Thread: Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)
08/02/2019 17:36:02

Work on the LE sheeting has continued over the week, I use a length of (what is now scrap) 6mm balsa to hold the sheeting in position while the adhesive dries.:

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Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 08/02/2019 17:37:11

06/02/2019 20:46:30

Building has been a bit sporadic over the past week or so, but nevertheless, the upper wings have been joined, the ribs added, the trailing edge doublers added, the false leading edge shaped, the LE sheeting cut and the latter added to the upper surface of the outer panels:

img_8839.jpeg

More LE sheeting next (underside and centre-section), then rib capping strips!

Thread: Elan 100 Build
06/02/2019 20:41:04

I've always had a soft spot for gliders so when I saw the review in RCM&E of the Cambrian Models Elan 100, and especially when the kit costs just under £70, the model seemed too good to miss. Accordingly, the kit was ordered as my Christmas present for 2018.

I was not disappointed. The kit appears to be quite complete with all the wood and hardware provided. As a further plus, the balsa was some of the lightest I've seen in a kit. The only complaint I can table is that the plan only shows one wing half. The instructions state that the plan should be traced onto the other side of the sheet to produce the other wing, but, I was still disappointed at the omission.

Up to now, other projects have taken priority, but nevertheless, it was started this afternoon with the laying down of the fuselage sides and laminating of the root ribs. The latter are a balsa ply sandwich for the first four ribs on the wings.

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Thread: Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)
22/01/2019 06:58:37

Ikura - Thanks for the kind words, Any photos will need to be taken outside, so as soon as the weather is suitable and I have the time to get the model outside, I'll do as you request.

Richard - You're welcome.

Martyn - Thanks also for the kind words. I'll be leaving the lower part of the engine cowl from the disc behind the propeller to the firewall open. The engine sticks out a bit anyway, so it shouldn't make too much difference to the side view. I'm hoping that it will be not too noticeable in the air.

21/01/2019 18:02:06

Having finished setting up the ailerons, the next job was to join the upper wings:

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And to confirm the above post to Richard Mallam, here's a pic of the Laser 70 in it's rough mounting position with the carb control lining up with the hole mark on the firewall.

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20/01/2019 13:19:59

I've been working on the ailerons and have added 1/2" triangular stock to the LE rather than carve 1/2" stock to the shape on the plan. It's not exactly correct, but it'll do for a flying only model.

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The aileron was then dry fitted to the port wing and the servo screwed in position. The picture shows the underside of the wing:

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As far as the flying surfaces go, it's upper wing joining next.

18/01/2019 18:07:03
Posted by Richard Mallam. on 18/01/2019 15:53:11:

Hi Andy, regarding the mark (and servo positioning) you have made for the servo / throttle linkage through the firewall, am I right in assuming that you will be fitting a Laser engine and if so will that mark line up with the throttle connection on the engine itself? Are you planning on a Laser 80?

Thanks, Richard

The mark lines up with the throttle control on my Laser 70, Richard. I'll take a pic next time I'm in the workshop.

18/01/2019 18:07:02
Posted by Richard Mallam. on 18/01/2019 15:53:11:

Hi Andy, regarding the mark (and servo positioning) you have made for the servo / throttle linkage through the firewall, am I right in assuming that you will be fitting a Laser engine and if so will that mark line up with the throttle connection on the engine itself? Are you planning on a Laser 80?

Thanks, Richard

The mark lines up with the throttle control on my Laser 70, Richard. I'll take a pic next time I'm in the workshop.

18/01/2019 14:25:49
Posted by Silver Wolf on 18/01/2019 13:34:32:

Hi Andy,

Just about to consider tank and radio layout before starting to put fusealge sides together. I am considering a similar layout as yours. How do you plan access to tank and throttle servo?

Regards

SW

I'll have a removable hatch that covers both bays SW. The tank will be filled, pressurised and fed to the engine via the rectangular hole in the firewall.

18/01/2019 07:03:19

I've been working on the fuselage servo installation and the second wing aileron/servo set-up. There are no pictures of the latter as it's similar to the other wing.

I've gone for a smaller tank and separate bay for the tank and engine servo. There'll be a hatch to cover both bays. I've also blanked the hole in the former at the back of the tank bay to isolate it from the remainder of the model.

img_8559.jpeg

The control snake (bowden cable) from the servo to the carb will go through the firewall at the point marked in pencil by an 'X' with a circle around it. As you can see from the graffiti on the firewall, I've gone through several iterations in the planning stage....

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