Here is a list of all the postings John C has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: lndoor model anybody?|
Some people build large carrying boxes (from corrugated signboard plastic sheet) to keep them safe. I throw mine in the back of the car. When it is breezy it is a good idea to hold them by the motor/prop and allow them to weather cock into the wind/gusts. I haven't had any transport damage doing this for about three years now.
It is a good idea to store them hanging from the prop so as not to distort the foam by lying to one side (the wings/ailerons are vulnerable to this.
The foam seems so thin and floppy on these models but they are remarkably tough. After a few months of regular use they tend to get a bit battered looking (especially around the nose) and put on a few grams of weight with glue and Blenderm tape but they continue to fly very well. They are not fragile like Depron F3P models.
BTW they don't fly super slow like a Night Vapor or an Ares Pup (or super light F3P models) but the Twisted Hobbies superlite models are great for low cost indoor aerobatics/3D.
The Clik is EPP and takes crashes well. Repair cracks in the foam with Uhu Por and tape across the break with 1/2" Blenderm tape and it is unlikely to tear in that spot again. EPP needs to be primed with a thin tack coat of Uhu Por to get Blenderm to stick permanently.
The Clik is the best indoor aerobatic and 3D model for small spaces. Not a small space but nice and slow flying **LINK**
Flat rudder turns are best for small gyms as they keep the speed down and can be very tight.
I have the Twisted Hobbies 24" Mini Edge. It is very twitchy and hard to fly compared with the 32" superlite models like the Clik R2 or Crack Laser Pro. I have a Crack Laser Pro and it flies very well. When you have mastered the knack it hovers very steadily (I cannot keep the 24" Edge in a hover). The Clik R2 has a low wing loading and flies very well indoors and is an excellent model. The superlite models have a lot of carbon rod bracing which makes them stiff. The Mini Edge has no bracing and the whole tail twists when full elevator is applied and requires aileron correction. Too much for me to cope with at the same time!
|Thread: OpenTX 2.2 Documentation|
I have just used your documentation to install OpenTX on my new Horus X10S and to set up a few models using Companion. Thank you very much for this excellent documentation. It is very clear and easy to follow - far better than anything else I have found on the web. It was particularly helpful to have a guide that covers Companion and the Horus X10 so well. There is lots out there on the Taranis but it is hard to follow as a newcomer to OpenTX using a different TX and Companion.
Your pdfs are very detailed and comprehensive and make a great reference source with their excellent contents pages. I am now going back through them for a second time filling in the gaps in my understanding.
It was particularly helpful to have a guide on setting up a Blade heli using an external module.
That must have been a mammoth task and I would like to say a very big thank you for making it available to us!
Did you write the excellent articles on building the Seagull e-Pioneer in RCM&E? I used them to build my first model five years ago and get started in RC. I followed your advice and it all worked out very well.
|Thread: Something that will bounce|
Have a look at Twisted Hobbys models manufactured by RC Factory. Like the Wargo, they are made of EPP which bounces and is easy to repair with Uhu Por. When the foam cracks glue it together and strengthen the area by priming the surface with Uhu Por and stick Blenderm tape at right angles across the crack. It probably won't break again in that area. Fly over grass and you will mostly only have to pay for replacement props (GWS slow fly at £1.25).
I have learnt to fly simple 3D with these models. It is great fun and stress free! Best to start with a 800mm span size. 600mm is very twitchy and 1000mm needs more space and is intimidating when close. Something like the Crack Yak 55 Lite would be a good model to start with - simple to build and flies outside in light winds. **LINK** Buy the servo and power sets too - they suit the models very well and are great value. The manuals are online at Twisted Hobbys. As I recall, the recommend COG in the manual for this model is too far back. You need a neutral trim with very little stick required upright and inverted.
As others have suggested a simulator is very helpful for 3D. I started with Phoenix but I find Realflight is much better for 3D (a couple of years ago a Phoenix update made hovering too easy). Use the biggest 3D models, even though you fly small ones, as they are the easiest to fly and less twitchy. Keep the model very close so you can see it very clearly. Have fun.
If you have an indoor club with a sports hall, the Clik is the model to get.
Have a look at this forum **LINK** Very helpful and friendly with lots of good advice from very good pilots.
Another excellent thread is **LINK**
|Thread: LiPO Fire extinguisher help needed|
Thanks for this advice which I had not heard before.
There is a good video on this method on the CAA website: **LINK**
Some useful information here **LINK**
Things seem to have improved. I ordered a HH's Commander (which was in stock) 7 days ago. At the end of the following day I received an email confirming my order and when I logged into my account I could see that it said 'shipped'. It arrived this morning by DPD. Slower delivery than from UK retailers but the price was excellent and I am delighted.
|Thread: Programming AR636A|
I agree with you completely. I find that lack of information like this is very frustrating.
See Andy's post #6418 for the information I referred to: **LINK**
Andy Kunz of Spektrum has written on the RC Groups forum "There are several different versions of code in the various AR636 products. They have varying levels of programmability, ranging from none (Sukhoi) to partial (most RTR/BNFs, some SAFE) to full non-SAFE (open stock). And as noted elsewhere, the "A" or "H" or no suffix mean little to nothing."
The new E-Flite Sukhoi 29mm (Gen 2) Blue n' White has a fully programmable RX but the previous version does not, so beware. I found if very frustrating that on my Eflite Splendor that the RX modes determined rates and expo as well as the gyro gains. Fully progammable sounds much better!
|Thread: Phoenix versus Realflight|
I was using Phoenix to learn to fly 3D planes and it was very good until about a year ago when a new update was brought out. In the new version is was so unrealistically easy to hover you do not learn anything. I hoped that this was just a glitch and would be fixed in the next release but it wasn't (and still wasn't some months later when I last checked). Others on the forums found the same as me. After a couple of months I bought Realflight 7.5 which is very realistic and the models fly like my real 3D planes.
It did not run very well on my laptop so I bought a secondhand PC with a dedicated graphics card which allows the sim to run at its highest settings and at a fast frame rate. On the laptop the slow frame rate made me feel nauseous and was not enjoyable.
I use a HDMI cable to a largish TV on my desk which is much better that the 15" laptop screen. Both sims have special cables/dongles to connect to the PC.
I use Heli-X for my heli sim but I think Realflight is fine too. I haven't tried Phoenix for helis.
At first I used my DX6i and now my DX6 tx to control the sim. It is probably better to use your normal tx so the feel is the same as in real life.
Now I don't use the sims much and just fly my Twisted Hobby EPP models in a field near home. They don't break when they crash (every couple of minutes) and I can fly the 24" and 32" ones very close to me without risk of injury. It is more fun than the sim. Without the sim I doubt if I would have learned how to fly 3D. I never thought that at 65 I would be able to learn to fly 3D but the sims have been great.
For learning to fly collective pitch helis I found that the Blade Nano QX quadcopter in 'agility mode' was a great aid. You can fly it indoors at home and, in agility mode, it flies very like a Blade Nano CPX heli which was the next step up for me before moving to a MCPX BL and then on to a 300 size model. I found the QX gave me lots of stick time to get the hand-eye co-ordination for tail in flying and it then allowed me to progress slowly to nose in hovering.
|Thread: Tiny servos and compatibility to receivers|
This is a DT Rx31 (from Micron Radio Control) - a 6 channel rx which weighs 0.21g. The wires are 0.2mm diameter enamelled copper from **LINK** You get 2m lengths of red, black and self coloured wire which is helpful for identification. A magnifying glass on a stand and a temperature controlled iron with a fine bit were used.
The servo wires were cut back to within 15mm of the servos and the soldered joints insulated with Plasti Dip. I now use Electrolube Flexible Silicone Coating to insulate these joints and also to coat the bare PCB of the RX and the ESC (because I fly this model outside as well as indoors and the grass is sometimes wet).
All the wires and covering were removed from the ESC. I have soldered the motor wires direct to the ESC and also the cut down cable for the lipo socket. This all saved weight. The lipo is in a cutout centred at the COG.
I am pleased that I have managed to build this Twisted Hobby's 24" Edge 540 with an AUW ex lipo of 69g. It flies very well and is delightfully floaty.
|Thread: BMFA Achievement Scheme News|
I agree in general and am very keen on rules being expressed in plain simple English (I have difficulty remembering the legal wording of the ANO Articles). However, Article 138 says more than your nice simple summary. It uses the words "recklessly or negligently cause or permit". So as well as it being illegal to willfully endanger people or property, you must not be negligent. For example, where appropriate, you must do pre-flight checks and carefully consider if it is safe to make the flight, etc.
Insurance contracts have been transformed by the use of plain simple English so it would be good to see it used in the Achievement Scheme questions. It would not be easy to ensure that the plain English had exactly the same meaning as the Articles but it would be good if it could be done.
Edited By John C on 12/04/2016 10:09:07
|Thread: Discount New Car Dealers (Car Wow etc)|
I recently bought a Ford Grand C-max from **LINK** saving just over £3,000 (on a £20k car) compared with the best price I could get from a local Ford dealer (with the Ford Finance discount). This saving took into account that I had to go over to Stranraer from Belfast to bring the car back. It took a whole day but a good saving so worth it. The car was supplied by Ford UK. The usual delivery time of 12 weeks applied.
To have protection for the whole purchase (under Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act 1974) you do need to pay the deposit with a credit card on which you are the primary account holder (not on a second card on say your spouse's account).
Everything went very smoothly and I would do it again. My sister also bought her new car from this company.
|Thread: Secretaries - how do you send emails to your members?|
Thanks Rob. I think I may use this. It is great that the free version of MailChimp allows you to set up multiple accounts with their own username and passwords and different rights which, as you say, would allow other committee members to send out emails to club members.
In testing MailChimp I have discovered that iphones don't seem to be able to open links to Word documents so I will save these as pdfs before uploading them to MailChimp.
Thanks for this suggestion - I will try using my club email (provided by club wesite host) rather than my presonal email and see how that goes. Thanks also for bcc advice - I wondered how to do this. Nobody has complained yet but better to use good practice.
Thank you to all who have replied. I may need to try your suggestions if the above doesn't work with our website host.
Our club has about 50 members who can receive emails. Until recently I have been able to send an email to all 50 recipients. Unfortunately my BTinternet email now gives me an error message saying that there are too many recipients. I understand this is to reduce the risk of spam. For a while I was blocked from sending even single emails.
I now have to send out 2 emails to 25 members each and this seems to work - but for how long I wonder?
How do other secretaries email their members?
I have looked at MailChimp but it is a bit cumbersome for this task especially if I am asked to forward an attachment. With MailChimp the attachment needs to be uploaded to their website and a link inserted in the mail.
|Thread: BMFA National Flying Centre|
Another important aspect of BMFA insurance is that it protects the club and its committee if sued for negligence.
I agree! We are talking about a very large financial committment in a facility that only a small minority of BMFA members will ever use.
I have also received the proxy form. This is all new to me in my first year as a club secretary. Does anyone know if there is any method for a club to make a postal vote?
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!