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Member postings for Scott Edwards 2

Here is a list of all the postings Scott Edwards 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: C17 Globemaster III - 1/15th Scale for PSS
29/11/2016 14:20:40

Damn that's a big boy hahaha fabulous

I'm liking the technique of filling with white foam and then shaping it, what's it like to do in practice ?
Thread: 4 stroke tuning
26/11/2016 19:36:53
And that people, is why we love our Lasers

Edited By Scott Edwards 2 on 26/11/2016 19:37:13

Thread: One Eighteenth of a Canberra B.2
24/11/2016 07:53:52
On more than one occasion I've mixed up my 5min epoxy bottles with the 2hr ones. That creates some "interesting" joints.

Out of interest, do you seal the control surface hinge line ? I generally do, but often wonder if it's actually necessary.
Thread: Hawker Hunter
17/11/2016 11:46:39

I think they look jolly nice

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17/11/2016 11:45:01

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17/11/2016 11:43:44

Having seen Steve McLarens Tornado, and particularly how spiffing it looks flying with drop tanks and full ordnance, I had to have a go 1/8 scale 100 Gallon Drop tanks are 430mm long, and 70mm diameter, so too big for solid balsa. I thought of making them like mini planked fuselages, but Steve made his from foam. I've made dummy spinners from foam, but that's about is. So ... here's my anatomy of a pair of drop tanks made Steve style !

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Thread: One Eighteenth of a Canberra B.2
06/11/2016 16:41:35
Spray booth most definitely available on Wednesday, with complimentary tea and ginger nuts too !

Is it just me, or does your pilot remind anyone else of Ghostbusters ?

Thread: New 78" Vulcan for twin 90mm DF
03/11/2016 15:15:53
Tony had this at the Gaydon show, damn it looks good. Tony did a talk on Model Design too which was fascinating. If he does another one next year I seriously recommend you go along !

And the Vulcan ? I'm first in the queue
Thread: 4-stroke recommendation
01/11/2016 13:54:45
I think you would be surprised just how many Lasers there are out there in Sport models actually Jon ! I've got an old Laser 45 (goes like stink) that I'm putting in a Cambria Funfighter Zero, is that sport or scale ?
01/11/2016 11:34:54
Another feature of Lasers that they don't market is crash resistance. A half decent crash with an OS or Saito will wipe out the exhaust manifold, push rods, tubes and rocker covers, and is a costly repair job (I know!) I've had to dig my laser 100 out of a field with a spade. Spent the evening picking dirt out from the fins and cleaning it, but it ran again perfectly. You've got to try very very hard to break a Laser
31/10/2016 20:59:33
"Lasers are for scale models"

Hahahaha oh no they're not I've had my Lasers in H9 Twist 40's, F3A Pattern Ships, Giles 120's, an Extra 260 and every Chris Foss plane you can name. On a couple of models I've had to put the battery behind the wing to balance, but that's it. A Laser will last a lifetime, I'm running a 1991 Laser150 in my H9 Funtana, still runs as good as new.
Thread: Hawker Hunter
31/10/2016 17:40:56

 

hahaha no secrets round here Phil It's got to be camo. Camo is sexy, everybody knows camo is sexy. Dark Green and Dark Sea Grey with a Light Aircraft Grey botty.


I've had a go with all sorts of paints, Flair Spectrum, Humbrol Enamels & Acrylics, Car Spraycans and Specialist Spraycans, and I'm now a complete convert to WarbirdColours from Fighteraces. It's lovely thick gloopy stuff which goes on beautifully, it's incredibly forgiving, tough as old boots and has a lovely satin finish. I have to spray it though, as I have the brushing skills of a 6 year old. Below is a recent pic I took of the two Hunters together at the City of Norwich Aviation Museum. Both very different shades of Green & Grey, even though Hunters were only ever supposedly painted in the same colours ! Of the two, I much prefer the darker one in the foreground, so will be aiming for that yes

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Edited By Scott Edwards 2 on 31/10/2016 17:41:54

31/10/2016 16:20:03

And this is where it is now ! Pretty much ready to fill the multiple dings and start covering. Tissue and varnish because I'm a cheapskate.

The weight so far is 1740g, that's 3lb 14oz in Caveman. I'm hoping for a final weight of well under 3Kg, but noseweight with these things is usually an unpleasant surprise !

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31/10/2016 16:10:12

I put the lids on the wings, incorporating a blob or two of washout. Next up were the intakes and wing fairings. These were a right bar steward. I moulded a sheet of balsa around the fuselage, and then built the wing fairings against this mould so the wing and its fairing is in one piece. The theory being that the wing and fairing fits perfectly up against the fuselage. Well, it does, sort of, ish, but is far from perfect. With hindsight I should have built the fairings on the fuselage and had stub wings. The join between the intakes and fuselage is going to take a fair bit of Michael Jackson** to look acceptable, but it's all experience.

**Michael Jackson: Filler, Filler, through the night ...

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31/10/2016 15:55:07

Wings next. As I'm hoping to fly this on my local girls blouse of a slope as well as the Orme, I thought I would accidentally stretch the wing area une peau. The scale span is 1.25m, so a sneaky 10% all round gives me 1.37m span, that's about 54 inches if you're still a Victorian. I had already stretched the tail area by 5% so hopefully it will still look reasonably in proportion.

I turned to my old mate, the King of Compufoil, Andy Blackburn to knock me up some rib templates because I'm way too tight ar5ed to pay for it myself. He recommended Eppler 180 as the section of choice for a swept PSS wing and printed me off a spot on set of ribs. As you know Andy is Captain Scale. The only thing in his house that isn't pure scale is his kettle. I had already decided not to incorporate the 'sawtooth' leading edge because this was a) too difficult to build and b) could have unexpected flying characteristics. This news resulted in Andy putting his head in his hands and weeping, but he's used to me by now, so we'll get over it.

The other issue was the anhedral. I wanted to keep this, but was a little restricted by the 12mm wing tube. Scale anhedral would have meant I could only protrude the wing tube about 150mm into the wing before it came out of the top skin, I therefore went for a bit less anhedral, and a longer joiner. Life is a compromise !

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31/10/2016 15:26:49

The first decision is size. I've recently come to the following conclusions on categorizing model size:

Small: fits in the car in one lump.

Medium: Fits in the car behind the seats in multiple lumps.

Large: Fits in the car with its nose between the front seats butted up to the gear lever !

Using this algorithm I elected for a sensible 'medium', which works out at 1/8. This gives an overall length of about 1.75m which lets me fit it in the car and still be able to change gear. This scale is also conveniently 4 times the size of my 1/32 Revell kit making calculations nice and simple.

Construction was going to be all balsa, cos I likes balsa I does, Planked fuselage built 'Easter Egg' style, and for no specific reason, I built the fuselage split horizontally instead of vertically contrary to convention, This actually made lining things up much easier though.

The fuselage is tubular for most of it's length, and then evenly tapered front and rear, so nothing tricky there. For the tail section I went for SD8020. With hindsight, this section is way too thick for scale, so I should have thinned it quite a bit, but heck, I can live with the shame.

Trying to get the canopy shape vaguely right was a sod. I did it 'Matt Jones' style by building it on a fiberglass mould of the fuselage. I failed to allow for the height of the fibreglass mould though, so it's a bit higher than scale, but please see me previous reference to personal shame. I wasn't going to make another one

The Plug went off to our man Steve at Vortex Vacforms (what would we do without him!) who for an embarrassingly small charge made me two gorgeous canopies from it (one as a spare/cockup!)

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31/10/2016 14:56:16

It's been a bit quiet round here hasn't it, so I thought I would hopefully encourage other projects to creep out of the woodwork by posting whats being knocked up in the Edwards Batcave.

Having been to a couple of cracking PSSA meetings, and had a good look through the archives, I noticed a distinct lack of Hawker Hunters. A classic British jet, with loads of examples, but not at all popular on the slope. Flair made a tiddler Hunter kit a few decades ago, but apart from that, they're pretty thin on the ground. So, to make the poor old Hunter feel a bit less left out, I thought I'd give one a go.

So far, I've deliberately gone for pretty simple PSS designs because they matched my skill level, and had a pretty good chance of success. I wanted something a little more ambitious this time though, just to stretch myself a bit.

I've come to the conclusion that scratch building is jolly good fun. The end results (well mine anyway) don't come out anywhere near as good as professionally designed stuff or ARTF's, but the satisfaction of looking at your own slightly wonky creation full of filler beats any ARTF every time !

So, here we go. Starting point is some decent reference books nicked from a mate, a 1/32 scale Revell Kit, a Vernier Caliper, a Brickies geometry set from Wickes and a roll of cheap B&Q Wallpaper. Oh, and half a balsa plantation.

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Thread: Club member appathy
23/10/2016 00:20:33
I'm the Sec of our club, and family members and friends have been the Secs of other special interest clubs like Astronomy, shooting, Chess etc. They all report the same thing: The rule of thirds. One third participates regularly, another third occasionally, and the final third you never see. Trying to change that round is pretty futile. It's universal human nature.
Thread: One Eighteenth of a Canberra B.2
22/10/2016 18:24:26
170g/sm ! Golly, that is surprising. I've got tissue & acrylic varnish down to about 60g/sm, but that's minimal, more coats would give a better finish. I then use lots of Upol Filler Primer to hide all of my sins. With hindsight, still using tissue & dope, would you have done anything differently ?
08/10/2016 23:42:23
Well, despite my best efforts, I have ended up with surfaces to paint that are as smooth as Tutankhamen's genitals. My cure is Upol High 5 Filler Primer from Halfords. Not cheap, but by 'eck it works. I've used all sorts of paint on top of it and never had a problem. Halfords do a cheaper Filler Primer, but it's hard as nails and doesn't fill anything like as well.
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