Here is a list of all the postings Scott Edwards 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New 78" Vulcan for twin 90mm DF|
|Tony had this at the Gaydon show, damn it looks good. Tony did a talk on Model Design too which was fascinating. If he does another one next year I seriously recommend you go along !|
And the Vulcan ? I'm first in the queue
|Thread: 4-stroke recommendation|
|I think you would be surprised just how many Lasers there are out there in Sport models actually Jon ! I've got an old Laser 45 (goes like stink) that I'm putting in a Cambria Funfighter Zero, is that sport or scale ?|
|Another feature of Lasers that they don't market is crash resistance. A half decent crash with an OS or Saito will wipe out the exhaust manifold, push rods, tubes and rocker covers, and is a costly repair job (I know!) I've had to dig my laser 100 out of a field with a spade. Spent the evening picking dirt out from the fins and cleaning it, but it ran again perfectly. You've got to try very very hard to break a Laser|
|"Lasers are for scale models"|
Hahahaha oh no they're not I've had my Lasers in H9 Twist 40's, F3A Pattern Ships, Giles 120's, an Extra 260 and every Chris Foss plane you can name. On a couple of models I've had to put the battery behind the wing to balance, but that's it. A Laser will last a lifetime, I'm running a 1991 Laser150 in my H9 Funtana, still runs as good as new.
|Thread: Hawker Hunter|
hahaha no secrets round here Phil It's got to be camo. Camo is sexy, everybody knows camo is sexy. Dark Green and Dark Sea Grey with a Light Aircraft Grey botty.
Edited By Scott Edwards 2 on 31/10/2016 17:41:54
And this is where it is now ! Pretty much ready to fill the multiple dings and start covering. Tissue and varnish because I'm a cheapskate.
The weight so far is 1740g, that's 3lb 14oz in Caveman. I'm hoping for a final weight of well under 3Kg, but noseweight with these things is usually an unpleasant surprise !
I put the lids on the wings, incorporating a blob or two of washout. Next up were the intakes and wing fairings. These were a right bar steward. I moulded a sheet of balsa around the fuselage, and then built the wing fairings against this mould so the wing and its fairing is in one piece. The theory being that the wing and fairing fits perfectly up against the fuselage. Well, it does, sort of, ish, but is far from perfect. With hindsight I should have built the fairings on the fuselage and had stub wings. The join between the intakes and fuselage is going to take a fair bit of Michael Jackson** to look acceptable, but it's all experience.
**Michael Jackson: Filler, Filler, through the night ...
Wings next. As I'm hoping to fly this on my local girls blouse of a slope as well as the Orme, I thought I would accidentally stretch the wing area une peau. The scale span is 1.25m, so a sneaky 10% all round gives me 1.37m span, that's about 54 inches if you're still a Victorian. I had already stretched the tail area by 5% so hopefully it will still look reasonably in proportion.
I turned to my old mate, the King of Compufoil, Andy Blackburn to knock me up some rib templates because I'm way too tight ar5ed to pay for it myself. He recommended Eppler 180 as the section of choice for a swept PSS wing and printed me off a spot on set of ribs. As you know Andy is Captain Scale. The only thing in his house that isn't pure scale is his kettle. I had already decided not to incorporate the 'sawtooth' leading edge because this was a) too difficult to build and b) could have unexpected flying characteristics. This news resulted in Andy putting his head in his hands and weeping, but he's used to me by now, so we'll get over it.
The other issue was the anhedral. I wanted to keep this, but was a little restricted by the 12mm wing tube. Scale anhedral would have meant I could only protrude the wing tube about 150mm into the wing before it came out of the top skin, I therefore went for a bit less anhedral, and a longer joiner. Life is a compromise !
The first decision is size. I've recently come to the following conclusions on categorizing model size:
Small: fits in the car in one lump.
Medium: Fits in the car behind the seats in multiple lumps.
Large: Fits in the car with its nose between the front seats butted up to the gear lever !
Using this algorithm I elected for a sensible 'medium', which works out at 1/8. This gives an overall length of about 1.75m which lets me fit it in the car and still be able to change gear. This scale is also conveniently 4 times the size of my 1/32 Revell kit making calculations nice and simple.
Construction was going to be all balsa, cos I likes balsa I does, Planked fuselage built 'Easter Egg' style, and for no specific reason, I built the fuselage split horizontally instead of vertically contrary to convention, This actually made lining things up much easier though.
The fuselage is tubular for most of it's length, and then evenly tapered front and rear, so nothing tricky there. For the tail section I went for SD8020. With hindsight, this section is way too thick for scale, so I should have thinned it quite a bit, but heck, I can live with the shame.
Trying to get the canopy shape vaguely right was a sod. I did it 'Matt Jones' style by building it on a fiberglass mould of the fuselage. I failed to allow for the height of the fibreglass mould though, so it's a bit higher than scale, but please see me previous reference to personal shame. I wasn't going to make another one
The Plug went off to our man Steve at Vortex Vacforms (what would we do without him!) who for an embarrassingly small charge made me two gorgeous canopies from it (one as a spare/cockup!)
It's been a bit quiet round here hasn't it, so I thought I would hopefully encourage other projects to creep out of the woodwork by posting whats being knocked up in the Edwards Batcave.
Having been to a couple of cracking PSSA meetings, and had a good look through the archives, I noticed a distinct lack of Hawker Hunters. A classic British jet, with loads of examples, but not at all popular on the slope. Flair made a tiddler Hunter kit a few decades ago, but apart from that, they're pretty thin on the ground. So, to make the poor old Hunter feel a bit less left out, I thought I'd give one a go.
So far, I've deliberately gone for pretty simple PSS designs because they matched my skill level, and had a pretty good chance of success. I wanted something a little more ambitious this time though, just to stretch myself a bit.
I've come to the conclusion that scratch building is jolly good fun. The end results (well mine anyway) don't come out anywhere near as good as professionally designed stuff or ARTF's, but the satisfaction of looking at your own slightly wonky creation full of filler beats any ARTF every time !
So, here we go. Starting point is some decent reference books nicked from a mate, a 1/32 scale Revell Kit, a Vernier Caliper, a Brickies geometry set from Wickes and a roll of cheap B&Q Wallpaper. Oh, and half a balsa plantation.
|Thread: Club member appathy|
|I'm the Sec of our club, and family members and friends have been the Secs of other special interest clubs like Astronomy, shooting, Chess etc. They all report the same thing: The rule of thirds. One third participates regularly, another third occasionally, and the final third you never see. Trying to change that round is pretty futile. It's universal human nature.|
|Thread: One Eighteenth of a Canberra B.2|
|170g/sm ! Golly, that is surprising. I've got tissue & acrylic varnish down to about 60g/sm, but that's minimal, more coats would give a better finish. I then use lots of Upol Filler Primer to hide all of my sins. With hindsight, still using tissue & dope, would you have done anything differently ?|
|Well, despite my best efforts, I have ended up with surfaces to paint that are as smooth as Tutankhamen's genitals. My cure is Upol High 5 Filler Primer from Halfords. Not cheap, but by 'eck it works. I've used all sorts of paint on top of it and never had a problem. Halfords do a cheaper Filler Primer, but it's hard as nails and doesn't fill anything like as well.|
|Thread: What has happened to all the Warbird kits?????|
|"Traditional" scale kits seem to have disappeared in favour of CNC cut plans. Tony Nijhuis stuff is ace, and some perfect options for a Laser 120.|
Edited By Scott Edwards 2 on 06/10/2016 22:45:33
|Thread: One Eighteenth of a Canberra B.2|
|Well, the tea looks like its been passed by the Devil himself, and you're two biscuits short of a 'proper' tea break. But - your tissue covering technique is immaculate|
|Thread: Kit builders, what would you like???|
|I too have 6 planes with Futaba PCM 35 Smegahertz Rx's in. I go to the strip and instead of shouting 'Channel 80' I now shout '35 Megs' and claim channels 58 to 88 inclusive.|
I have 2.4, but can't really tell any difference apart from not having an ariel wire trailing about, so I'm in no rush to change everything.
|Thread: Steve McLaren's version of the A4 Skyhawk|
|Nice job Steve ! How did you get on with the tissue and varnish ?|
|Thread: One Eighteenth of a Canberra B.2|
|Looking damned fine ! Steve McVortex knocks out damned good stuff doesn't he |
Idea ... Could the nose transparency be made detachable and held on by magnets ? It could pop off in a crunch and be easier to replace ? It could also be used to gain access to nose weight or even a switch ?
I can understand that on a lightweight open structure, excessive shrinkage is a real problem. For covering solid sheet though, like a fuselage, is it still a problem ?
Question 2: I've found that compared to dope, using acrylic varnish on tissue makes it much more 'stretchy' and easier to get round gentle curves. Is there a better technique with dope & tissue that makes it as stretchy as acrylic ?
And finally .... your sanding tool idea for planking !! I've made a couple, and damn they work !!! I put some sandpaper on the outside too though for grip, I found that a bare cardboard surface on the outside was insecure in the palm, and having a sheet on the outside too makes a huge difference.
|Fantastic work. Puts me to shame. I've been luck enough to see it in the flesh, and that planking has no filler folks ! My planking looks like a Christmas cake in comparison.|
For colour schemes, I've become a big fan of 'some' contrast, I'm a big camo fan, but different lower & upper surfaces will provide plenty of contrast.
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