Here is a list of all the postings Scott Edwards 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Band Saw or Scroll Saw?|
|I've got the Proxxon Bandsaw and their Scrollsaw too. I scratch build lots of big stuff, I rarely use the Scrollsaw ! The Bandsaw is like my right arm. Perfect square cuts every time. It can go round surprisingly small radii by 'nibbling' and cuts perfect Former notches too.|
Balsa up to 3 inches thick is fine, and ply up to 12mm slowly with care ! It's a dinky little thing that sits under my bench and comes out when I need it.
The downside is the cost of blades at ?15 or so. You can't force it, you have to let the blade cut at its own pace, or you can snap a blade.
Safety wise, you really have to be dim or very careless to slice yourself. I've never come anywhere close.
|Thread: PSS Tornado F.3|
|I've been lucky enough to see it in the flesh, and it's even better than it looks here. I would challenge anyone with a micrometer to find a discrepancy !|
|Thread: One ninth of a Canberra|
And that's a wrap ! Four months, 300 hours(ish) work, and not a huge amount of money later I have my one ninth of a Canberra to carry up a hill and lob off the top.
The final weight came out at 5200g including 810g of nose ballast to get the balance right, that's 11 1/5 lb and nicely under my 12 lb target.
It's been an absolute joy to build, gone remarkably well without any snags or gumption traps. I've tried loads of techniques for the first time, which have largely worked too ! I reckon the total cost of all materials (excluding radio gear) is well under £250. Project Austerity Canberra completed ! Roll on the Orme 2016
Thank you for watching, and huge thanks for all your advice and input A flight report will hopefully appear here soon
Edited By Scott Edwards 2 on 12/12/2015 18:17:34
Been a few weeks since the last post, but I came to a grinding halt waiting for a Pilot ! I ordered a (not cheap) 1/8 'Jet Head' from Real Model Pilots. It's taken so long to arrive though that I gave up after two weeks and went with an old one I already had.
|Thread: Blohm & Voss BV215 for PSS|
Ooooh that looks nice ! I'm fascinated by the late WW2 experimental Luftwaffe program, amazing period of development. really looking forward to seeing this develop
|Thread: New Laser engines. What do you want?|
|A fuel pump or regulator ! Either as part of the engine, or a separate accessory. I've had 150's and a 240V in Pattern planes, and putting the tank on the CG makes a huge difference. I use Cline fuel regulators with some success but they are fiddly and fragile. If there was a 'Laser' provided alternative I would have one in every plane.|
|Thread: One ninth of a Canberra|
|I'd never used an Airbrush before, so just got a bargain bucket starter kit for ?100. It's just unbranded Chinese stuff, but the compressor has a tank, and came with two double action brushes.|
I use the biggest nozzle of 0.5mm, and a 22cc side feed bottle. I don't know what the spread is, but it's adequate for a biggish model with a little patience. The huge advantage is that I can use it indoors without painting everything else at the same time.
Cleaning is indeed a pain, but every siver lining has a cloud
Rivets: Surprisingly quick ! I made a template of a strip of thin ply with holes every 10mm, and then bend it round the surface and go bop bop bop with a sharpened 3mm brass tube. Now I know it works I will do more on the fuselage. It's quite therapeutic !
|Thread: Cloud Models Mosquito for PSS|
|Looking forward to seeing this one grow. Did you get it from The Balsa Cabin ? They normally have one hanging up .... many times I've thought .... hmm, shall I .... Was worried about the wing section and short nose though. Watching with interest !|
|Thread: One ninth of a Canberra|
Wowzie ! Acetone works too ?! Ace tip will try that. Have you used Humbrol on big projects too Andy ?
Those last dregs of thinned paint in a tin ? I suck them out with a disposable Cyano tip hahah get it wrong and the stuff tastes foul mind you.
How to paint a Cranberry - part 1 !
I've tried a variety of paints before, starting out with brushing (always looked like I'd used a broom) Rattle cans are great, but blast the stuff out so it goes everywhere. They're also cheap individually, but if you have to buy a dozen for a project make you gulp ...
I bought an Airbrush recently, just a basic kit for £100 and it's fantastic ! With a 0.5mm nozzle you can cover big areas perfectly quickly, you can also use it indoors without painting the walls too. They ARE the answer ! I've used Flair Spectrum paints (mixed 50:50 with Cellulose thinners) and that worked great. The colour range is limited though, and their silver is like an oily gunge, so I looked elsewhere ...
Fighteraces do specialist paint, but not a silver. I tried a pot of B&Q stuff and it was a dark grey, nothing like silver. Then a plastic modeller mate suggested the Humbrol Metalcote range. The thought of painting a whole airframe with tiny 12ml pots gave me a belly laugh, but I thought it had to be worth a go ....
The stuff is excellent ! I tried their Polished Aluminium (27002) mixed 2:1 with their thinners. One pot will easily cover 5 square feet. You let it dry for half an hour and then polish it with a soft cloth to a glorious shine. Bingo !
One quick order to Humbrol and this lot arrived ....
The wings are now complete. I tried panel lines and rivets for the first time too, I stuck 1/64 tape on the wings before priming them, and then made a riveting tool from 3mm copper tube. The results are subtle but for a first attempt I'm pretty pleased. Silver is ruthless and shows up every single finishing flaw, but what the heck. I cut the masks and painted the roundels too, far from perfect but a lot more satisfying than vinyl peely ones.
Pic below of the finished wings, with an iddy biddy ikkle pot of Humbrol paint !
The canopy by the way has been farmed out to Steve Davis at Vortex Vacforms
This is a shameless plug.
It looks like one of those things the Mrs sticks up her bra, but is less squishy.
I copied Matt Jones technique, and built a mould of the fuselage with cloth & epoxy and then built the plug on that. It decidedly tried my patience as there isn't a straight line is sight, I think it's come out rather good though ! The bare sanded balsa was a bit crap, so I put a layer of car body filler on it and its now as smooth as a babies bumcheek.
Originally I was intending to send it off for Vac-Forming, but I'm now tempted to leave it solid and paint it gloss black hmmmmm ....
That's really useful feedback Peter, for most of us everything's a compromise, it's a balance of cost, hassle, weight and personal preference. Bottom line is they all work pretty much. I'm very weight conscious as I fly on an ikkle 'ill, and I'm cost conscious as big models are just money hoovers. On balance, yes I'm sacrificing quality of finish and strength for cost and low weight, If I lived within an hour of the Great Orme though it would be completely different
Your experience of Ronseal varnish is really interesting, I haven't been able to tell the difference between that and Poly-C. If anyone knows what the difference is I would love to know ? I haven't tried Eze Kote yet because it's 30 quid a litre (gulp) If I do a smaller project I will definitely give it a go though.
|Thread: PSS Tornado F.3|
|It's only through watching these evolve here that you realise what damned complex shapes Tornadoes are, and the modelling skills required to do one! I doff my cap to you all.|
Very pleased that classic fin shape is now on yours Andy, I believe the locals referred to them as "Norfolk land Sharks".
|Thread: One ninth of a Canberra|
Jolly good question Phil ! I've had a go with different coverings recently and come up with the following conclusions:
Profilm: Nice but damned expensive. Last project took 10 rolls. That will be £178 Sir. Thank you. It's tricky stuff to paint too.
Solartex: See Profilm above. Loves paint though.
Glass/Epoxy: Tough as old nails, quite expensive, heavy, and I'm allergic to the blasted stuff. I have to wear goggles, marigold gloves and a Burka to use it. It's not a pretty sight.
Tissue/Varnish: Cheap as chips, light, loves paint, but nowhere near as tough as any of the above.
I use Ronseal Diamond Hard Interior Satin Varnish. This IS Poly-C. A big tin is half the price though, and I use leightweight tissue from RC-World (6gsm I think?) I seal the wood with cellulose sanding sealer, rub down, then tissue/varnish, rub down, and then another few coats of varnish rubbing down in between. I try to build simple practical lightweight models built to fly rather than to resist crash damage. I just accept the fact that a good pile-in and they will turn to dust So basically, it's a compromise.
Well, after a brief hiatus for some of that annoying 'work' nonsense we're off again ! The second nacelle is completed and went together far easier than the first ! Often the way, you apply lessons learned from the first and the second one goes much better. It is fully covered in tissue and varnish and ready for priming ! Almost a shame to cover that lovely wooden framework, but it has to be done.
The remaining challenge is the canopy. I'm going to use the technique Matt Jones documented for his jaw dropping Sea Vixen, so will be making a 'mould' of the fuselage to build the canopy plug on.
Weight wise everything in the pics below comes in at 3600g or just under 8lbs Still nicely on target !
Incidentally, yes, the Mrs WAS out of the house.
And she doesn't have a login here either
I have occasionally tried to understand more complex aerodynamics - I invariably fail, and draw the conclusion that there is an awful lot more going on than my minor brain can cope with. In the example above, with an object traveling in circular motion of radius 10m at 30ms-1 those calculations are equivalent to a conker on a string in a vacuum. A PSS Canberra is not a conker, there is no string, we have the air to think about, and the wings are generating lift (a lot) at that speed. These things make my head hurt. I would much rather rely on my blind faith in Carbon Fibre and glue stuff together whilst listening to Pink Floyd, which brings us back to ...
Nacelles - oh my they're a lot of work. Two of them, 3 foot long with a wing going through the middle. Trickiest bit is planking and then shaping/sanding without taking lumps out of the wing. The crutches and formers fit together perfectly. Doing a good planking and shaping job requires a degree of craftsmanship though, rather than a hacker & basher like yours truly. I've completed one to a reasonable level, but will move onto other things temporarily before returning to do the other nacelle. Couple of pics below, one with crutches in place, and another with one nacelle completed ...
On a side note - I *think* I've settled on a colour scheme - Silver with yellow wing bands. Conveniently there is one of these at the Norfolk Aviation Museum (A 1954 T4 version WH840) Coincidentally I happen to be in the area next week too, how tragic ! Much photograph taken will be.
Jolly good question sir. The main spar is hard 1/4 balsa with a 1/16 ply plate bonded to it that extends slightly into the outer section of the wing. The primary strength comes from that. Where the inner panel of the wing meets the outer tapered panel is a double thickness rib (2 * 1/18 balsa) so the butted sheets overlap half of this double width rib. There is no bandaging or internal reinforcement.
I'm of the opinion that we massively over-engineer these things, and we instinctively build them to survive a crash rather than to fly. I've crashed many powered ARTF sports planes and always dissect them to see how they are built. Their minimalist structure is astonishing, and the wood is generally cr*p too. I've yet to make one fail in flight, and damn I've tried ! Similarly with foam wings, stick an old Acro Wot wing between two chairs and sit on it - you will be amazed how much it can take.
Here's a question (I don't have a clue what the answer is) A 5Kg PSS model with 100 dm2 of wing is dived vertically from silly height to say 30 m/s and then given 45 degrees full up elevator - what is the maximum instantaneous force on the wing at the root ? I suspect it's actually not greater than the 5Kg mass of the plane ?
Alas no, that was in fact "une up de cock". Ahem. My basic failure to be able to read a plan properly. Thank you for highlighting this fact publicly on my behalf hahaha
A bit of selotape & PVA and bish bosh let's all pretend it didn't happen
Met up with Andy B last week. He's updated his plan to add a crutch & former based nacelle design. Not only that, but he doubled it in size for me and printed it out ! Added to that he printed two copies, one to slice up and one for reference !!! He also bought me lunch What a thoroughly top chap ! Triple win.
I haven't built many models from plans, but I've done enough to know some are bl**dy inaccurate. Even CNC cut plans I've done have had big margins of error. Andys stuff is flipping micrometre bang on though. You don't need to do any second guessing, just cut it out and you know everything will fit perfectly.
The nacelles are 32 inches long, so it's a bit like building two small fuselages. However, a quick appointment with Mr Bandsaw now sees me with a kit of nacelle parts to crack on with later this week ...
|Thread: PSSA Gliding Events|
|I've been monitoring the forecasts past few days, and alas that's the first time I've ever seen "0 mph" predicted Sadly it's just too far and too expensive a journey for me not to fly. Hope you have a good day though, and fingers crossed for more Bwlch PSS days.|
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!