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Member postings for Peter Garsden

Here is a list of all the postings Peter Garsden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
21/02/2020 16:19:03

So to the tailplane. I intentionally left the gluing of the tubes into the tailplane halves so that I could attach the wing, then line up the tailplanes with the fin temporarily slid into position. One everything was lined up, I pinned them into position and left them to dry. I have now filled the holes with some 3mm balsa scrap



Finally, I glued the front nose intake pieces together, first of all drawing the lining up lines onto the wood to make sure they would sand down correctly.


To get the right side profile, I made a cardboard template from the plan, which was very helpful.

21/02/2020 16:11:52

I thought hard about how to secure the wing retaining bolt plate. I didn't want to just glue it to the side of a curved fuselage, which is mainly why I installed F7 so I could butt it onto the side as per the plan. I don't have any ply doublers so I glued in a support of 1/4 x 1/4 to F7 for the rear to sit on and fashioned some pieces of 1/2 balsa for the sides to rest on. I made it so I could slide it in and out.

I made the dowels for the front of the wing. To mark the position I spot glued some short pieces into F5, brushed some black acrylic onto the ends and slid the wing in which marked the hole positions, then drilled them out with ever increasing size drills as usual, then offered the wing up. I had to file away some of the fibreglass seating but it is a good fit.

I was then able to drill holes in the rear trailing edge from top through the wing and then the ply plate in one go. I put one in first, attached the bolt to hold it then drilled the second. Never been able to do that before. More accurate.


There was a slight bubble in the rear wing seating which I cut away. I cut too much away so have patched it with 2 layers of glass cloth as the foreground shows. Next job is touching up any holes in the fibreglass with filler.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 21/02/2020 16:13:52

Thread: sabre made in Belgium
19/02/2020 10:23:02

The clue is in the embroidery "FlyGirls Pin-Ups". She wouldn't be much good in a dog fight in Korea, unlike Tom Cruise and Val Kilmer.

Something for you to 3D Print though Andy?

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
15/02/2020 14:49:35

I can see light at the end of the tunnel. I must admit that usually fibreglass fuselages are quicker, but in this case, because I have had to fit a number of formers to hang other bits on rather than for strength it has taken longer than usual.

I am only using F1, F4, F7, F9 and F10. I am omitting 2, 4,6, and 8. The problem is that I am having to fit the former whole rather than in halves for the fuselage so I am gluing them together and reinforcing the joint with some 1/32" ply for strength to take the strain when they are shoe horned into the inside of the fuselage. I am also roughing up the inside of the fuselage which is smooth from the parcel tape to provide a good join for the formers.

They are only 1/8 ply so I am adding short stringers to increase the gluing area.


It is impossible to get the exact shape so fitting has to be done. I use my very handing shaping tool then matching it against the formers and sanding with my disc to the line.


Amazing how you can use up off cuts, I think from the Skyhawk wing seat doublers.


The stringers will point forwards as will the reinforcement doublers so you will not see any of this from the wing seat.


This is F7 (behind the wing), which I have inserted to provide a mounting for my wing seat plate and guidance for my rudder wires. I will be redrawing the wing seat plate to span the fuselage. I am not using the F11 wing set bits because they won't fit into the slots due to the curvature of the fuselage. The wing seat will be quite stiff enough with front and rear formers going in.


F1 from the rear showing some 1/4 square I have glued in to hold the battery box - there is no keel on my fuselage which would have cradled the box at the front. I will feed in the box after F4 has been glued in.


F1 from the front - because of the curvature of the fuselage it would go in from the front which would have been easier. I had to push it in from the rear. I then used a syringe full of epoxy mixed with fibreglass powder to fill in the join with the edge of the fuselage and provide a fillet.

Thread: sabre made in Belgium
13/02/2020 12:13:03

Great idea Dirk. As I have already cut a hatch in my fuselage, I might as well make it removable. I think I will screw mine down then cover it over so it can be accessed in an emergency. There will then be no gaps for the wind to whistle through.

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
11/02/2020 20:51:22

I have also formed the fin and tailplanes using my handy sanding disc which saves so much time. I also used it to form the farings which are not a perfect fit to the fuselage but are the same height as each other. I had to put filling pieces in to fill the gaps underneath and at the end.


I'm going to cut out the rudder later when everything is fitted. We will need to fit in some filler pieces around the fin for the concave fairings either side. I will probably cover it with the film prior to gluing as well.

11/02/2020 20:46:26

Well finally I have formed the outside fairings for the tailplanes, and the bellcrank, wires and tubes.

I was wary of which order I put the bellcrank on the tube, and bent the wire. I have a strong vice, unlike some and was able to anchor the wire in the vice to bend it to the right angle using the very handy template. The secret is not to put the brass tube in the vice as it will squash and be unusable.

I found that the bellcrank will slide over the bend in the wires even after both sides are bent. This was welcome because I should have slid the spacers (made of circuit board) over the tube before bending the 2nd wire.

I decided not to use a brass tube for the rear pivot hole which I am sure will be fine. I think there would be enough space if you are careful with the pillar drill to form the hole for the tube

Before gluing in the brass tube, I made a slot in the balsa fairing then filled it afterwards with balsa. I also coated the wire with Vaseline to stop it sticking to the tube and make sure it stayed free.



Thread: Chris McG F-86 Sabre Dog build blog
11/02/2020 15:44:21
Posted by McG 6969 on 09/02/2020 18:11:20:

Hi again,

No parachutes, no Migs at the horizon as per Dirk’s blog, anyhow I decided to plank the underside of the fuse at the front as it will help sanding the foam blocks.


I suspect I might have future problems when trying to align the wing dowels properly. But then Plan B will see me cutting out some access hatches… surprise

I also prepared some ‘sanding sheets’ from an idea I found on the forum (might be Andy Blackburn’s, but I can’t remember for sure).

It’s just a couple of sheets of cardboard laminated - with slightly diluted PVA - and covered with different grids of sandpaper. Just apply a few strips of Sellotape or cling film to your fuse and apply that lamination at different locations to obtain different curvatures, pin down and allow to dry.


To give some grip for sanding, I applied two small strips of sanding paper at the top as well. If my ‘delicate’ fingers don’t stand the torture, I’ll just add a few strips of masking tape on top… angel

Full report available after testing.

Hakuna matata


BRU - BE / CTR Sanding Equipment Control


I can thoroughly recommend the Andy Blackburn sanding tool. Works a treat. He mentions it in his Canberra blog. I used it on my Canberra blog and it is absolutely brilliant. You should all use it. Makes sanding perfectly round so easy. Takes the edges off planking perfectly.

I think I did mine larger going further round the curvature, but the Canberra is perfectly round rather than the Sabre having complex curves. There again, I don't need to worry in that my fuselage is fibreglass.

This is the link to Andy's explanation - , and mine -

Edited By Peter Garsden on 11/02/2020 15:57:22

Thread: sabre made in Belgium
10/02/2020 14:00:08

Yes agreed. The key to photo insertion Dirk, is that before inserting the photo insert your cursor at the spot in the post where you want the photo to appear. So if you are inserting photos one after the other, you have to insert paragraphs so that the photo will be positioned at the right spot.

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
04/02/2020 16:41:12

The only problem with a fibreglass fuselage is that you have to make the formers fit afterwards from the inside which is a difficult fitting job.

I decided to use the same cradle (F15) for the taiplane bellcrank, F9 and F10. Getting them to fit was a labour of love. Try as you may you can't accurately replicate the shape of the fuselage. Anyway it is done now and everything glued in position. I used epoxy mixed with fibreglass powder to strengthen the joint. The fin seems to fit so it is a case of leave to dry.


Fortunately the cradle seems to be more of less square ready for the pivot.


F10 from the rear


After fiddling around a lot I decided to cut a hole in the bottom of the fuselage at the rear in order to gain access to position F9. You can see that I had to join the formers together before I glued them in once I had sized each half to fit each side. I also added some 1/64" ply reinforcement across the join.

Thread: Jet Provost 1.5metre Andy Blackburn PSS Plan
30/01/2020 20:31:20


Re the Jet Provost 57 inch wingspan. The plan and woodpack are now available online via the PSS website here **LINK**

Thread: Nigel's F-86 Sabre Build
30/01/2020 20:23:55

Re the Jet Provost 57 inch wingspan. The plan and woodpack are now available online via the PSS website here **LINK**

Edited By Peter Garsden on 30/01/2020 20:24:47

30/01/2020 16:52:30

Welcome Nigel.

  1. Flaps - this is my first PSS model where I have employed flaps. I don't normally particularly on low wing models because if you don't retract them before landing they can be damaged. I have always gone for spoilerons before which do work. It is more important for models that land very fast. I don't know if this is one or not. I have however gone for flaps on a bit of a whim to try them out. If I was starting again, I would probably adopt Captain Phil's idea of putting the servos centrally on top of the wing rather than in the wing itself. It is done now so it will be a good experiment.
  2. Re Rudder - I love doing stall turns. If you look at my Jet Provost Build Blog you can see that I didn't include it, regretted it, then fitted the rudder retrospectively because it needed it. Some people eg Phil and Dirk never fit them. You might get away with not having one as this is a swept wing jet, but I am fitting one personally. I am going with plan ie a closed loop. That is because I have little imagination and do what I am told (ha ha ha!)

Edited By Peter Garsden on 30/01/2020 16:54:38

Edited By Peter Garsden on 30/01/2020 16:55:11

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
29/01/2020 18:30:37

Thanks for all the great tips Dirk. Yes, shame you aren't in England but that is the disadvantage of being in slope free Belgium.

Anyway, all the cloth is now on, and I have done a top layer of epoxy/microballoons. And yes there were wrinkles - next time maybe follow the Tinck method. Must look back on this as and when.

This is before the acetone went in - what an almighty mess. This time I used thick smooth resin friendly gloves but the goo stuck to the gloves - any tips Dirk? Went everywhere....


And without foam





Edited By Peter Garsden on 29/01/2020 20:40:35

Thread: Jet Provost 1.5metre Andy Blackburn PSS Plan
27/01/2020 09:20:53

I think the problem comes when you take portrait instead of landscape pictures Jez. I think the programme automatically rotates them, then you can't adjust them. I had the same problem and couldn't resolve it until I started taking all landscape versions. There isn't an image editing program incorporated into the software. As Tim M will tell you, its very old ASP programming.

Thread: sabre made in Belgium
23/01/2020 19:07:31
Posted by Andy Meade on 23/01/2020 16:25:11:

Have you forgotten you and your A4 won a prize on the Lleyn Peninsula Mr Garsden? cool

Good point well made Mr Meade though the prize was for flying not for making, which is where the Tinck comes in. Sometimes you just have to accept that you are better at some things than other things.

23/01/2020 14:42:49

Great blog and fine building Dirk. I know now why you win(g) prizes and I don't. Something I just have to accept.

Anyway, I am just about to print off my decals on my vinyl cutter, and it would make sense, as we are doing the same model to do a set for you too. If you pm me your address I can post them to you - cost you a beer of course.

If you accept my offer then please let me know what registration numbers you are going for. Mine are

420 on the side of the fuselage and 19685 - here is a screen shot

So if you can let me know what extra decals you need and what numbers you want and your address, then, when I print, I can double up


Edited By Peter Garsden on 23/01/2020 14:43:15

Thread: Avon Sabre Spirit 78
23/01/2020 09:52:00

Reading this makes me worry Steve as I haven't got there yet to be honest.

  1. I thought the plan said that one ought to make the bend on one half over the template, then insert the wire into the tube, then bend the second half in situ because otherwise you won't be able to get the thing onto the tailplane support, or have I misunderstood?
  2. I agree that the rear wire doesn't need a bush.
  3. At what point, Martin, just to clarify, is one meant to do the bending of the wire?
Thread: Phil's F-86 Sabre build thread
22/01/2020 10:47:45

Your post reminds me why I always get myself an extra copy of the plan so you can read what to do next! !!

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
20/01/2020 16:05:39

Thanks for the questions guys

  1. I have doused layer 1 with resin. I have let it dry and will then apply layer 2. I did a shroud of peel ply draped over the top and pinned down each side to keep the fibreglass sheet flat, which sort of worked. The problem is that you can get bubbles. The peel ply does however soak up the excess resin, and keep the weight down.
  2. I don't put all the layers on at once because the resin wouldn't soak through 3 layers of cloth properly. I don't bag it No, thought it might not be a bad idea to do so. Dirk can no doubt advise.
  3. As to dispensing with the parcel tape, this was recommended by Paul Janssen the pioneer of lost foam for PSS. His site has been taken over by Maarten Werner. The method is described on his site here - **LINK** I think as he was using polyester resin which would had attacked, I think, the foam, whereas I am using epoxy resin which doesn't react. I do find, however, that the tape helps you pull the goo out in one go at the end. It also leaves a smooth inside surface, which admittedly is not what you want. So the jury is out and Dirk is the professional expert on the subject? What say you sir?
  4. I use Copydex to glue the sheets of Blue Foam together but it is difficult to get now and expensive. What is the best glue for this chaps?
  5. I use 3M77 to attach the cloth to the parcel tap but that is also expensive, any suggested alternative?
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