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Member postings for Peter Garsden

Here is a list of all the postings Peter Garsden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
08/12/2019 12:58:01

Change of plan. It will not work sticking the servos to the bottom surface of the wing if the control rod is going to exit the wing from the top surface because you will simply not be able to access the rod for adjustment. As this is going to be the mouldie type of linkage the servo has to attach to the top sheeting of the wing in order to give the correct angle for the rod, and allow adjustment.

So I am going to glue a 1.5mm ply plate to the top sheeting and glue the servo to it. Hopefully that will work and there won't be too much play.

1575809360351-1120109203.jpg

Wires must thread in before top sheeting goes on. Note the loop of wire to give some play in case the servo needs to come out.

Thread: Jet Provost 1.5metre Andy Blackburn PSS Plan
08/12/2019 11:25:26
Posted by Jez Billington on 08/12/2019 10:48:43:

Something is wrong with your images Jez. You have to upload them to an album then use the camera symbol to install them. Are you doing that? Shame because I am intrigued.

Thread: In 1961 The New German Federal Luftwaffe
04/12/2019 14:16:50

Mark, you being the brilliant ace designer - not the only one of course, other designers of equal brilliance are available and in the PSSA, indeed this goes out to you all. I am struggling to work out the exact mechanism for hinging and opening the speed brake fuselage doors. I think I have got it then realise I haven't.

I put a design up on my blog but then thought again and contacted the RC Geek. He said put two servos in one for each door and attach the control rod to the nib of the hinge. I want to use one servo - I have in mind a balsa control rod with 2 wires attached?

Any ideas sir?

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
02/12/2019 17:32:51

15752987558721130642331.jpg

I am going to try flaps, never done that on a PSS model before. I am using slightly stronger Savox servos for flaps and cheap Emax Metal Digitals (about £7) for the ailerons. This is the way I am fitting the servos. I have marked the lines with pin holes which I will remove when I take the wing off the jig. I am going to screw them to the triangular corners from the bottom.

I am going to raise the servo on 3mm plinths so that the wire can run from bottom to top direct to the horn from inside the wing. There is enough room.

It is important to glue these in position before you attach the ribs as the ply runs under the ribs and slots have to cut to make room.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 02/12/2019 17:34:31

Thread: F86 speed brake
02/12/2019 12:12:36

I think I am going to have a go at these. I figure that because it is a fibreglass fuselage, the doors will be a lot stronger and easier to craft.

I have watched the RC Geek video. What I can't quite work out is how the bell crank to operate the door opening mechanism should be designed.

This is a Kettle project methinks. Anyone any idea?

My thoughts:-

  1. Use a bellcrank with three rods - 1 to servo, 2 to the middle of each door opening outwards. It would be a 3 point crank with the rods not overlapping and fouling each other.
  2. 2 bellcranks one for each door and 2 rods, 1 to each bellcrank.
  3. The RC Geek system and that shown shows a pneumatic valve which obviously we won't be bothering with?

Have done a rough sketch

1575288629070-1176464883.jpg

Thread: sabre made in Belgium
02/12/2019 11:51:17
Posted by dirk tinck on 01/12/2019 00:02:42:

Hello sabre-ists,

While building the wing ,i noticed that the ply wing brace in front of the ribs is captured between the wing skins.(planwise)

I think this is a drawing error or am i seeing this wrong ?I'm going to add this brace after the false leading edge , leading edge and skins are sanded.It may be hard to sand the ply next to the soft balsa but i'm going this way.

Any thoughts ?

If you cover the balsa with masking tape it will stop the excessive sanding problem, perhaps use a Proxxon type shoe horn sander for the ply - is a lot quicker.

Thread: Martyn's F-86 Sabre Build Blog
02/12/2019 11:38:55

Looking good Martyn. I am hoping to do a closed loop rudder, particularly as it will be a fibreglass fuselage. Maybe see it being maidened up Leek?

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
02/12/2019 11:29:41
Posted by Martyn K on 02/12/2019 10:06:20:

Peter

 

Is that 3mm to allow for the tapering of the LE (and TE) to accomodate the sweepback?

 

Martyn

No Martyn, it isn't. 3mm too long. The ribs as cut overlay the front false leading edge IMHO. If you look carefully at my picture it should speak for itself. The point you make was what I initially thought.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 02/12/2019 11:30:27

Thread: F86 "Gamma" Build
02/12/2019 09:53:45
Posted by Martin Gay on 01/12/2019 21:19:50:

This photo shows the blocks that hold the servos looking down from the top of the wing. The top skin is not yet fitted.

The blocks ended up being packed out and glued to the shear webs and ribs as well as the top skin.

A thin ply strip holds the servo in and is accessed through the hatch in the bottom skin.

img-20190911-wa0003.jpg

I would advocate gluing the servo to the ply backing plate with a mixture of Epoxy Finishing Resin (NOT GLUE) and microballoons being careful not to glue the rotating pot as well. I have tried this method. It is a fiddle and the servo can move, or break the supports in extremis. I know Andy Blackburn has moved to this method because he recommended it on his Canberra.

Mouldies glue the servo to top and bottom skins for extra support. I never have but you can do so.

Incidentally if you are worried about removing the servo, it can be easily prized off the ply plate with a screwdriver as long as you use the correct resin, otherwise it is there till hell freezes over (-2 degrees here in th'ills)

Edited By Peter Garsden on 02/12/2019 09:57:47

02/12/2019 09:51:06

1575278389080838087119.jpg

I think I have found an important cutting error. All the ribs are about 3mm too long at the leading edge even accounting for extra needed for the swept back wing. Martin am I correct? Suggest you cut them down before laying as it is much easier.

Thread: Pete's Cavallino Rampante Italian Aerobatic Team Sabre
02/12/2019 09:49:07

1575278389080838087119.jpg

I think I have found an important cutting error. All the ribs are about 3mm too long at the leading edge even accounting for extra needed for the swept back wing. Martin am I correct? Suggest you cut them down before laying as it is much easier.

02/12/2019 09:47:32

1575277052048-1573016551.jpg

As I don't have a collection of weights just the right size, and because I wanted to make sure the bottom sheeting was flush with the jig, I pinned my bottom sheeting down. Very easy because the lines for ribs have ply underneath. When the ribs go on of course it will be pushed into place but even so...I wasn't convinced that weight alone would bed it down properly.

You can see that I have used my handy engineering squares to line up each rib then pin it - invaluable. I am using Super Phatic. It is the best for ribs as it dries fast and fills the joints. Thin Cyano just goes everywhere. I tried cyano for one spar but it lifted in places. Not good for spruce.

15752770783211833967563.jpg

I am using spruce because it will produce a stiffer and therefore faster wing.

02/12/2019 09:39:08

Thought I would show you the extra 1.5mm sheet needed to pack up R1A on the jig

2019-12-02 07.14.05.jpg

I read about it and wondered what was needed.

I found that the jig went together a bit twisted (inevitable) so needed securing down. I am making both wings at once but even so it needs packing.

Also make sure that you put some of the jig cross pieces (J7) in particular the right way round as there is a right and left hand version - mine turned out very warped at first until I checked.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 02/12/2019 09:41:42

02/12/2019 09:37:42

Well the jig finally went together after a lot of filing and easing but the good thing is that it is a tight fit. I have followed Steve's excellent advice not to glue it together to make it dissamble afterwards, and also glued my triangular supports (balsa) to the ribs only rather than the jig as well.

I had some 3/4 inch square pieces left over from the JP so sliced then cut in half to make triangles. Works well.

I bought some new Permagrit tools (crimbo present for a friend needed), and noticed they do a larger file of 3mm and a spar slotter with grit only on one side. Worked a treat.

1575277200652315238912.jpg

I used the file to open up the ribs as it has not seration at the side, so does not wear down the bottom of the slot.

01/12/2019 13:07:37

I can see that there are many different methods around with regard to the wings. I have chosen to mark out my bottom skins before mounting on the jig. As with previous models I extended the lines from the edge of the wing in pencil to aid marking up with a ruler

157520223819630782453.jpg

You can see here the lines for the spar, false le and false te.

1575202274330-1621301472.jpg

I left a small amount of overlap as recommended by Steve McLaren so we can line up the plan more easily and to allow the curve of the wing. The extended lines, however will help. You can see that the only line done accurately is the root rib.

1575202312648187332356.jpg

I am hoping to line up and build both wings at once.

01/12/2019 12:55:32

Oh..right..aah...thought someone else was doing this version, not to worry. I had started to make some decal numbers on my vinyl printing programme but have not printed anything out yet. I could easily do something different - went for 420 with a rear number of 19685

27/11/2019 17:28:05

Ah thank you Martin - brilliant. Unfortunately it looks so much better in yellow, so I was hoping that I would be able to use it. Still might use Solarfilm Antique as film is so much easier than paint. Will give it some thought.

27/11/2019 16:55:07

I have another question for those that may know better than me - was the fuselage yellow or ivory? All the pictures suggest ivory but some paintings show yellow - I suspect that they were originally yellow but faded in the sun? Can't find out the answer. Does anyone know ie

drawing2.jpg

or

60_1.jpg

Edited By Peter Garsden on 27/11/2019 17:04:58

27/11/2019 14:14:51

There are so many pictures of wing jigs and ribs that I just got a bit bored, so I thought I would give it some thought and give you my preferred order of play (even though I haven't started yet). Incidentally, even those of us who have done a lot of building before haven't built a wing on a jig like this before - a lot of us wish we had such an excellent idea to work with. As with the JP where you had to put 2 10p pieces under the main spar at the root, it is possible to build without one, but it does add an extra step.

  1. Make all 4 top and bottom sets of sheeting over the plan before it is covered in jigs and clear film.
  2. Make them oversize to account for the curve of the bottom and top but not so much as to obscure the plan. I reckon 10mm is all that is needed.
  3. Use the masking tape, folder over to glue with aliphatic or PVA, wipe off excess then pin down join side down technique. Make sure each join is completely flat before leaving to dry as this is 1.51859298989 recurring sheeting (sorry not completely accurate measurement) and not much margin for sanding
  4. Cut the join of the 2 wings to plan so you can make both wings at once with a good join you can check before you lay down the jig.
  5. Extend the lines from the plan of all lines beyond the edge of the wing ie all ribs (some already helpfully extended but not all, outside line of false leading edge because the sheeting overlaps it; wing spars and outside of false trailing edge. This way you can make the lines you need on the wood bottom sheeting.
  6. Mark the lines onto the bottom sheeting by pinning it down to the plan
  7. Only now build jig and pin down - don't think you need to use any glue other than J2A, J2B, J2A etc. It will fit together nicely and can be held in place by adding pieces of triangular which can be glued in place then used to pin down as it will be balsa and easier to pin through.
  8. Add bottom sheeting to jig then spars and ribs and glue with either cyano or super phatic whatever takes your fancy.
  9. Add false leading and trailing edges then top spars then webs, then remove from jig, hopefully in one piece - as long as you make sure your bottom sheeting root joins are good before you start it should be possible to do 2 wings at the same time.
  10. Add any extra bits you need like hinge blocks, and supports for your aileron/flap servos. I am still in 2 minds whether to do flaps. I feel that they can only help on landing as long as you retract them in time. I am thinking, however of doing the side fuselage speed brakes, so do I really need both?
  11. Note that the plan I have does not show the actuating rods for aileron and flap at right angles to the control surface but it should be. You can angle the servo to ensure this happens. I suggest gluing the servo to a ply plate which is the most secure way. If you use laminating resin instead of epoxy glue you will be able to prize them off again. I would cut out the plate for the servo separately to the surround before gluing into place.
  12. I think there is room enough to put the control rod from inside the wing to the horn without placing the whole rod outside the fuselage and risk catching it on the heather. To do this you may have to buy high torque flat wing servos rather than cheap 1.5kg versions. Not sure. I would always leave the cheap servos for less stressed applications. You may have to raise the servo up a bit so that the rod can travel from near the bottom sheeting, out of the wing to a top control surface horn. On a mouldie it is usual to attach to the top sheeting but that is not possible here. On the other hand you may be able to exit your control rod out of the bottom sheeting?
  13. Remove from jig to cut out the servo hatches and attach servos to plates; thread wires through holes to come out of holes in top sheeting.
  14. Trim off extra sheeting overlap on all sides.
  15. Make holes in top sheeting, re-attach to jig, and attach top sheeting, and leave to dry - I always use Aliphatic but I know some people use cyano. I have always had a problem getting it all to stick using super glue so don't bother with it for this purpose - great for other things.
  16. Remove from jig and add trailing edge (not sure if jig is wide enough to attach in situ, if so I would do so). Add leading edge and tip blocks. Add leading edge sheeting whilst making sure that dowels are in place or holes have been cut for them. If you have the fuselage built line up the dowels with the holes in F4 I think it is.
Thread: Jet Provost 1.5metre Andy Blackburn PSS Plan
25/11/2019 16:57:18

Great work Phil, and v interesting filler discussion. I find flour and water washes away and is not gluten free, better for sticking paper.

Anyway George and Arthur were looking a bit grey, so I brightened up their life with a bit of colour. George seems to have a bad stigmatism, and Arthur appears 'armless enough but only because I had to sand him down to get him into the cockpit. I also had to cut down the triangular sticking out to about 3/16" to flow into the fuselage. Much more former had to go courtesy of a Dremmel and tiny Tamiya Saw.

157469304025784481694.jpg

Gangrene set in below the knee

1574693197042-1668463910.jpg

All tucked up awaiting canopy

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