Here is a list of all the postings Keith Evans 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Here are more photos of the wing build
I've shown the end and side wing gussets . Note the rear gusset is larger than that on the plan as I thought this may be a potential weak area .
Both snakes are now in position but not yet fixed . This is so I can better determine their relationship with the servos and snake support bulkhead .
A fair amount of the central wing rib has been removed to make way for the new servo tray ,This is made from 1/8" ply with 1/4"x1/8" hard wood servo screw supports to the rear .The whole mount will be fixed to 1/4"x1/4" balsa rails fitted to wing ribs W2 .
The snake exit point is lead through a slot in the 1/4" sheet tip . This will be filled in when the snakes are permanently installed .
You may also notice in one of the photos how the width of former F3 has been widened ---the one with the beam cut outs .
Hey Ho onwards and upwards .
Here goes the build.
You will notice the use of clamps ,rubber bands ,pins , straight edges spacer blocks etc to try and keep everything straight and square .The mark one eye ball is problematic for me as I wear vari focals , and for those who know , every thing comes out as a curve ! ! ! I was quite pleased as only a few ribs needed adjusting before the T.E. was added .
One thing that is not too clear on the plan are the gussets .They are masked by the T.E . in the drawing .If I had noticed this earlier I would have added these to the T.E. before adding it to the ribs as it acts as a good support for the end ribs .
The spars were made up of three laminations of 1/16" ,1/16 "and 3/32 ".This combination made up the right size for the slots in the ribs . It was either this or recut every rib slot.
The first lamination was of 1/16" used straight .I completed one side of the wing with one lamination and then did the other side .I repeated this procedure for the remaining 1/16" and 3/32" but pre bent using water and a thumb nail ! I
I used C.A. for the L.E. joints and aliphatic everywhere else with a little bit of balsa cement if there was any slight gap filling to do .
I can't emphasis too much the need for constant checking . The centre lines were a great help .
Later I found it far better not to bend the rear most spars but to cut them off and replace with 1/4 shaped balsa .This will help with the tip snake runs and mid spar gusset fixing .
Yes two sets of hands would make a difference but wit patience it can be done .
I'm awaiting a delivery from the Balsa Cabin to complete the wing . It should be with me in the next few days .
It's mainly for the L.E. sheeting the cap strips and the T.E. Note that near the main spar the T.E. is in plan view and needs to be adjusted for the true dimensions .I'll probably use some card board to develop this .
In the mean time I'll crack on with bits of the fuselage and the elevator .
These are the two very large plans I'm working from.
You can see where I've marked where the removable cockpit will be and the lengthened front nose .
I read on one review that the builder actually built the plane on the floor with large wooden supports .My shed isn't big enough for that .! !
Before construction started I marked the centre lines of all the end ribs ,the L.E. and T.E. and all rib positions .
During the build I found it a help to notch the T.E. to allow for rib length variations and to keep things straight .
If i was doing it again I would do he same for the L.E.
While doing the centre lines I marked the position of the ail. snake runs .These were determined by laying the snakes over the plan and seeing if there was free movement . I also worked out what if any snake supports were needed for these and those for the rudder elevator and throttle .
I checked the servo positions and changed these on the plan .
This is the Keith Humber plan and was featured in the "Model World " magazine Feb 2010 .
Before starting a build I study the plan , the laser cut parts and build article very closely .
A few issues I've found so far .
The wing rib spar notches are not correct .
The centre rib spacing does not correspond to some of the former dimensions .
Some of the ribs are longer than others .
I've also modified the plan .The fuselage is lengthened to accommodate a larger tank .
the engine will be side mounted .
I'll do away with the glazed cockpit and make the whole top front a removable unit
I'll also re rout the ail. snakes to do away with the bellcrank system .
I'll remove the ail pivot mechanism as it was designed out in flight development .
The engine beams will be replaced by an engine mount .
That's all for now .I'll be back with some build photos later and some of the issues I encountered .
After my last build ""The Kamco Kadet" I was looking for something new .
I was struggling ,until I came across the plans and short kit of the "Arup".
They were hidden away and only came to light during a major tidy up of "The Play room" as Sarah calls my work shed .
I must have purchased this about 6 or 7 years ago but was put off it as the wing is built vertically and I had never done this before .
I've actually started this about two weeks ago and as the build is "different " I thought some of you may be interested to see how I'm going about it .
For those who do not know what the Arup I'll add some photos taken from the build article . .
|Thread: This really makes me mad !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!|
I can't say I've had similar problems with my suppliers .but what makes me mad is finding out that after fitting cap strips some of them are thinner than the L.E. or T.E. sheeting .
If they are thicker then a quick sand solves the problem .
Thinner ,needs filling and sanding back ,complete removal or if left alone an ugly wing .
The problem is that I salvage lots of balsa just for the purpose of cap strips and being old stock may be of slightly different thicknesses .
Perhaps I should pay more attention before I glue them on .! ! !
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Yet another lockdown project .The Kamco Kadet .
It is 3 channel but I have built in provision to convert it to 4 channel if I want to at a later date .
It has an S.C.35 up front and. weighs 4lbs .
The plan says the C.G. should be at 39% M.A.C.
I've chickened out and balanced it at 25%.
A pal up the club said his would fly very nicely but had to put a pile of lead up the front .
I'm not sure when I'll get around to fly this as the flying site is in a lockdown zone so I cant travel to it and my own zone came under the same restrictions a few weeks later so I cant travel out of my zone even when they clear the flying site zone .By that time winter will be upon us .
I also have 3 other planes awaiting their Maidens .
Ah well there's nothing for it but just to build something else .
I'll need to start creating space soon .So is there any body interested in a 1/6th near scale "Bird Dog " ! ! !
|Thread: To stabilise or not to stabilise - the gyro question|
I fitted a gyro to my SKY 40 a few years ago .
The reason was to be able to fly in gusty weather thing we have a lot of at our flying site .
It was great fun experimenting with the gains while flying .
I soon realised how fast it can drain a battery when set at 100% ! ! !
It's the first time my fail safe kicked in . I did land safely .
I now only use it when conditions change on take off or for landing on "Winnie the Pooh " days and then set at only 25% .
|Thread: OS Max 15LA Won't Run Upside Down|
This is the twice size Marquis I built and flew a few years back .
The only difference I made to the original was to add 3degrees dihedral and 2 degrees of washout .It flew very well .
Later I modified the flap planform at the tips to give more area ,split the flaps to give flaps and aileron control .
I did read somewhere that the Marquess could be a bit twitchy .
I too originally had an inverted O.S.46 FX .but got fed up with it flooding on start up and I couldn't be bothered to invert the thing so I put the engine in the upright position .
The canopy I believe was for a Chipmonk from Vortex .The pilot was a sort of Barbie Doll .
|Thread: Kamco Kadet|
Hi John .
Thanks for Outerzone tip re their supplements ,I'd missed those .
Hi Dai .
Thanks for the input but I will be cutting my own .
1---I've got nothing better to do with my time at the moment .
2---My ribs will be tapered right down to the T.E. as I'll be replacing the solid T.E. stock with sheet top and bottom .
3 ---Believe it or not I quite like cutting them out .
4--- Coming from the Rhonda I'm a bit tight fisted when it comes to paying for luxuries . ! ! !
All the best .
Hi I'm considering building the Kadet,
I'm studying the plan and it looks as if the C of G is positioned at 39% of MAC .
Is this correct ?
I usually balance my planes between 25% and 28% .
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Hi this is my latest lockdown project --- A Cessna Skymaster .
I used Simon Delaney's plan of May 1993 as a basis .
I've modified it a bit .
The cabin is now fully glazed .
It now has working rudders and flaps . The elevators and rudders are driven by snakes in the booms .
The ailerons and flaps have their own mini servos in the wings .
The wing struts are non load bearing and are plastic loose leaf binder clips pushed over small ali . brackets on the fus .and wing .
The under carriage is a bit too long as I am concerned about prop clearance on take off . It's currently sporting a10"prop .I could go for a 9" three blader as previously suggested but I'll try this out untiI get a feel for things.
It is powered by a Thunder tiger Pro 40 and uses an in cowl silencer .
I'm waiting for some decent weather to see how it performs . To balance the plane about 3 grammes of lead was necessary at the end of the booms giving a high wing loading of about 29oz.. per sq.foot .
Oh well we shall see ! ! !
|Thread: Futaba 14SG chat|
Hi Dennis and Maurice .
Here is an update .
The throttle is set on CH3 .
I reallocated the set up .Still the same problem at this stage .
However I tried something different .
I allocated the BF/S which was previously set to ( -- ) i.e. no switch to a three way switch (SG) .
Positions of switch being set for OFF OFF ON .
I now switched from "Hold" to F/S at 84% ----------and it all worked !!!!!
I checked the fail safe by switching the TX. off and it still all worked in whatever position I put (SG) in .
I was also back to the old problem when I put the BF/S back to (--) .
SG is now back in the picture and we are up and running
Why this has worked I have no idea .
Any ideas ? , and thanks for the initial input . Maurice ,the 14SG using the r617fs only has F/S on Throttle
I have a problem with the throttle servo.
It will only operate when the fail safe is set to "hold".
If I set it to F/S there is no throttle movement at all . It is positioned on 84% .
I have changed --the R/X ( r617fs ) --the batteries ,both R/X and T/X --eliminated the switch harness and coupled the battery direct to the R/X .All my other planes work O.K.
I've now run out of ideas .
Any suggestions .
|Thread: Prop ground clearance|
I am building a Cessna Skymaster from a Simon Delaney plan with a few modifications .
I would like to fit an under carriage to it .The original plan does not incorporate one This is a front engined version and is fitted with a Thunder Tiger Pro 42 and a 10x6 prop .
I know I will not be able to get the U/C dead to scale but I would kike it to be as short as possible .It is a trike design .
The question is --"how much ground clearance should I be aiming for ?
My flying field is not too bad in the way of big bumps but it is not like a tarmac surface either .
I've considered using a smaller dia . prop and smaller rear wheels to maximise the ground clearance.
Normally I would use about 2" clearance but I'm considering going down about 1"
Any thoughts and suggestions would be welcome apart from --Why don't you build the rear engined version ! ! !
|Thread: Futababa 14SG - No Power|
Following up on what Cuban 8 has suggested re the charger .If it was the one originally supplied with the set ther e was a recall on these for safety issues .I had mine repaired thro' Steve Webb and Ripmax which took a few months to resolve .
Like you I left the Tx not used for along period of time .On charging the Tx with the repaired charger I thought it had fully re charged ,over night as I normally do and went flying the following day only to find it had not been fully charged .
I traced the problem to the charger itself.
I duly dumped the charger and have been using a stand alone charger that copes with Lipos etc .with no problems. The battery has been working fine ever since .
Hope this helps .
|Thread: Lockdown Models|
Hi , the above photos are of my 10 year old SKY 40. Needed to revitalise it and give me something to do over the lock down ,
It's surprising what can be found under the old covering.! ! !
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
This is to introduce my latest Winter/Lockdown project.
It is a STOL plane .I've taken a lot of information from A.G.Lennon for this , particularly his "Crane". design .To tell the truth if I could have got hold of that plan I would have built it .
I've named it " Hi Tee " , a play on words and its tail design .
Roll is controlled by spoilers and is has full wing flaps with an all moving tail .
It's powered by an OS 46 FX and has a 60" wing span with vortex control wing tips .
It's been quite a challenge to build and has kept me busy .
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