Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Radio Queen ailerons|
I wouldnt have any reservations about fitting ailerons. While their performance will not turn the model into an extra 300 they will work fine if you fly coordinated. It would not be much different to a cub or a T180 and would make cross wind landing rather easier.
Dont bother strengthening the wings, adding ailerons wont hurt them structurally and if you use strip ailerons they might even be stronger as you will need another spar to nail the ailerons into. You will need to lower the dihedral though but that is really simple.
|Thread: Powered by Laser, a gallery thread|
Its a nice idea but we best choose a day with decent weather as i dont fancy driving 100 miles to stand in the rain
That will work
Scott we should get together some time so my sea fury can give your welly a little top cover. Im pretty sure a pair of 180's and a 360v flying together would sound pretty tasty
now i really am jealous..
For your fuel tanks, have you joined them at the top or the bottom? I ask as its best to join them at the top as you need the top of the tank and the link pipe to be free of fuel when the engine is running. The reason is that fuel is much more difficult to get through the pipe than air and this can mean that the tank not open to the atmosphere ends up with a vacuum causing a lean cut. If they are joined at the top the vent air can flown through the first tank and into the 2nd without any resistance.
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer size|
Dont bother making the nose longer. Its already longer than scale and it will start to look strange if you make it longer still.
I have flown 3 of these now and they were all lovely after some tweaking. My Dads model used a 50 4 stroke and had about 1lb of lead bolted to the firewall. Even so, it was light as a butterfly and flew brilliantly so just add the lead and forget about it. Note that he balanced his forward of the marks on the plan as he thought it flew better. Having flown another 2 balanced as the plan i would agree it needs more ballast and upon adding this weight to a friends model it flew much better. Again this model was 50 4 stroke powered.
When it comes to power, they have flown on engines as small as a 25 2 stroke so dont go mad. You certainly dont need a 70 4 stroke and from my experience a 50 is more than enough.
I also wouldnt get crazy about adding the 2 inches back either to the wings. It will make next to no difference to the model and will only create more work.
If you want to create more work, forget the wings/nose and instead make a taller undercarriage and have it sprung like the full size. It wont improve the flying or ground handling, but it will make it look much more scale
my dad built one 32 years ago and complained that it was 58'' span when built and not 60. Flair told him it was shrinkage of the plans!
|Thread: Laser engines in stock!|
I cant take an order for something that is not in stock as i have no idea when i will be able to supply it. To put this in context, i doubt i can supply a 70 before the new year.
All components are made in house, i just have no control over it and those that do lack my sense of urgency.
No idea i'm afraid as i am waiting for parts.
|Thread: take off dolly|
Which part of the retracts is giving you trouble? Its likely a better set will help you out.
There is also the thorny issue of landing too hard. Warbirds wont accept the sort of treatment a sport model will. You might have to refine your landings and, probably, the setup of the model as well to make precise control of landing that bit easier.
|Thread: Powered by Laser, a gallery thread|
Im quite jealous actually. Its a model i have always wanted with the ideal powerplant. Ron is on the naughty step now. Bad service and price rises in store for him
|Thread: Multi Engine Plane|
People get very hysterical about multi engine models and there is an awful lot of nonsense out there about what to do if you loose an engine. Frankly, they are a non event if you take a few additional steps vs a single engine model.
The first is to make sure you have everything set up nicely. Are the engines tuned correctly so that each is happy, are the tanks right, is the cooling ok... When it comes to engine tuning dont bother matching top end rpm. Its more important that they are happy. +- 100 or 200rpm is not important. Also make sure the engines are nice and warm before takeoff. A good 15-20 second blast at full power is a good idea and dont just firewall the throttle. Open smoothly to 80% and leave it there.
With engine failures (which are rare if the engines are set properly) the key is airspeed. If you are fast loosing an engine is not a problem as you leave the other flat out and correct with rudder. Many correct the yaw induced roll with aileron and this is really not good. Fly the rudder by hand, dont trim it as you will be out of trim again when you throttle back to land. Once guaranteed to make the runway you can throttle back and 'glide' home.
Beyond that i split my flights into a few categories and have already decided what to do in advance if an engine dies.
1. Takeoff - If im on the ground and an engine fades abort takeoff. Dont try and coax it. If its sick abort and try again.
That said, if you do get in a spin chop the other engine and recover. Its no different to a normal spin so just get out of it as you normally would.
Most accidents, single or twin, come from poor preparation. Pilot skill is a factor, but you can be a good pilot and still be caught flat footed if you dont have a plan in already in mind when something goes wrong. Equally, a careful pilot of moderate skill will do well if they have considered all their options in advance and made all of their choices ahead of time.
Chopping all the power immediately just turns the model into a brick. Its a far better idea to fly yourself out of the problem than abandon the model to gravity
Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 24/11/2019 21:08:38
|Thread: Powered by Laser, a gallery thread|
a pair of 360's in the video, a pair of 160's in Ron's build
cant beat a twin twin.
Not sure if i have posted this before, but to give you an idea of what is to come...This is just so much better than a pair of screaming petrol 2 strokes.
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
No im still here, just about hanging on to my sanity.
Ron, this is what i want to make. Boss says its too complicated. Pretty much sums up the whole story here. Why do something awesome when the bare minimum will do? Anyway, im working on it and i will offer left handed versions of the spanners
Reverse engines are a pain and not worth the hassle but reverse spanners seem reasonable.
Its not all bad. I have authorisation for 1 new product at least.
Get your name down for the official Laser glowplug spanner coming soon :D
I have been wanting to do one for ages as most of the commercial ones dont fit as they are cast out of round. If you then mod them so they do fit they crack eventually and are useless.
All i have to do is come up with a design he is happy with. Cant have anything too complicated
Bert, probably a topic for another thread but when does it loose cylinders? if you are just cruising at half throttle or so then it should not be dropping them. If it is then is likely out of tune somewhere along the line, or another fuel might help. One thing i found with my ASP radial was thermal management was a real problem as it would overheat at full power and then overcool at low power. I always had to balance the throttle to keep the temperatures up or down depending on what i was doing. My OS flat 4 behaved the same when out in the wind, now its in a cowling the temperature is more constant and it runs better.
Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 21/11/2019 19:55:42
Frank, straight methanol will work just fine but we recommend 5 nitro as it makes the engine very slightly less critical on needle settings, makes them more willing to start when its very cold, and gives a smidge more power. Certainly straight fuel with 10% or lower oil should be just fine.
Richard, give it a go with 2 series 2 parallel and see how you get on. 4 stroke plugs will probably wear 2v without blowing so dont be too worried about using a lead acid.
Bert. I think you are getting carried away with your reliability worries. If i understand you correctly the engine has not even been run yet so why are you worried? Ignore all the naysayers and give it a shot. Dont look for problems, just tune it up and fly. and £650 to convert?! ouch. Thats a 300v twin!
Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 21/11/2019 14:53:14
I had not see that before but its not a surprise. Oil and nitro are expensive. Shame i cant support engines run on weston fuel though (no, i wont argue about it so dont start )
Richard. On my 240 flat 4 i use a single 2.4v nimh pack with 2 cells in parallel and 2 in series for 6600mah. I then have the two right hand cylinders connected to the +ve and the two left hand -ve with the circuit completed through the engine itself. It fires up all 4 very nicely and i think you could probably stretch it to a 5th plug. Have 3 +ve and 2 -ve? I might try it on my asp radial as you are right about the faff of 5 glow sticks
Meths is not likely to be very pure. My guess is it wouldnt be a very consistent fuel and im not sure how a gluwplug would take it. Its also more expensive than methanol from what i can see.
As a side note, its the oil and nitro which cranks up the price of glow fuel. Go skinny on both and you bring the cost down.
And i admit, this is only my opinion, but if you take a warbird like the ones being referenced here is fuel cost really an issue? Minimum 350 for the wood, perhaps the same again for retracts and oleos, another 200 at least for radio gear. An engine could be 300-700 depending on what you get, so call it 500 as a middle ground. Now we are up near £1500 and we could easily spend another 500 on bits, paint, a pilot, spinner, scale details..whatever. So, if we call it an 1800 - 2 grand model, does it really matter than you used 20 quids worth of glow fuel to fly it for a weekend? To me 20 quid for a fun weekend out in the sun (yea right) is cheap.
Thanks for the input.
Ok, so reliability of multi cylinder glows... Its an overstated problem to some degree and there are a number of factors which cause it.
1, Bad engine tuning/fuel. This is the no1 reliability problem with glow engines. They are set too rich and then cylinders drop out. Its true of singles, twins, whatever and running high nitro fuel makes the problem worse as the cylinders are swimming in fuel/oil. Running hotter on low/no nitro fuel with the engine fully leaned out is the bigges defence against this problem and i have not had an engine die on me at random for more than 10 years now. Ignoring fuel flow problems due to split pipes or whatever i have no concerns about any of my engines stopping on me. In your case Bert the low oil fuel the evo likes will help as well. Loosing pushrods will be your biggest issue im afraid. Internal corrosion is also directly linked to rich running and high nitro fuel. Running at optimum tuning on low nitro fuel minimises the unburnt fuel in the crankcase and the additional heat (80'c is fine) of the crankcase evaporates any residue.
2. Bad design. A look at the issues folks have had with saito fg84's tells you that intake design is a major contributing factor for reliability problems. In the case of the FG84 as it was petrol it wouldnt stop, but didnt run well as it was and many were modified. In a glow, this is going to be a bigger problem and was on the 450r3 that i had. Saito tried to compensate with dual plugs and this was successful to a point but didnt overcome the flaws in the design.
3. Carbs. So many multi cylinder engines have 1 carb for their many cylinders. This is not good as you cant tune each cylinder correctly. This is why we have two carbs on our twins and its also why they dont drop cylinders when tuned correctly (see point 1). In my experience so far of 6 multi cylinder single carb engines only the two from OS (a 300 gemini and FF240 Pegasus) seem to run correctly on a single carb. They arent perfect and will not tolerate the abuse i give my laser twins but with a little care they are fine without onboard glow. My ASP Radial on the other hand struggles as it overcools when idling. Once up in the air its fine.
So, in the case of an inline twin i would use 2 carbs like we on on our V's. As long as the rear cylinder was cooled properly i cant see any reason for reliability issues.
On a radial i would use 1 carb but with an impeller in the backto make sure the cylinders got an equal share. I think OS also do this on their 420r5.
On a 4 cylinder....4 carbs..I would like 4 carbs, it would be awesome, but i suspect 2 might be the less intimidating solution. I would have to test it.
Dirk, fair enough! If you cant get methanol then i cant argue with that.
Availability. Im working on it. Before he scarpered again i tried to grill the boss a little on the plan going forward. He had to shoot out but i will hopefully grill him some more once he gets back.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!