Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Carb Problems|
if there is oil in the pressure pulse opening for the fuel pump this could upset it. It could have congealed and cause a blockage
|Thread: Home made fuel|
You can also use ml70 as after run if you like. I use it when assembling new engines as its the same oil as in the fuel meaning there are no issues with compatibility or anything like that. Its also very gloopy (technical term there) so it sticks to everything.
As a side note i had a chat with MT yesterday and they say that Laser 5 is increasing in popularity with more and more people asking for it. The biggest increase is people at shows asking for it so i am told.
I am quite pleased to hear this, and am pleased to hear that those who have tried it on my recommendation are happy with its performance.
Just to fact check myself i got myself an updated price list and laser 5 has gone up a bit to near £20. Its still nearly 9 quid cheaper than something like contest 10 though.
they will be able to order it for you Nigel although you might have to buy 4 gallons. Given its advantages i am surprised MT themselves do not do more to promote it. Their techpower range is also really good and considerably superior to their older generation fuels.
On the price of oil ML70 is around £13 a litre and klotz is nearly £20.
Working on 15% oil you need 682ml per gallon so your looking at nearly 9 quid a gallon just for the oil, plus methanol at the price in the OP and we are staring at £15 a gallon assuming no nitro. Clearly you could cheap out and use lard or something in place of the expensive oil, but long term i suspect that will work out more expensive!
Makes Laser 5 look good value at £16-17 a gallon.
|Thread: Spektrum transmitter for a beginner|
If you wish to keep the cub as its own package then there is nothing to stop you looking at other brands of radio. If you already have a bunch of spektrum gear then clearly its not viable but if not and you are starting from scratch you might want to at least look at the other options just so you have the full picture.
If you do stick with spektrum follow the advice here to avoid fake rx's and make sure you always use at least 5v to prevent brownouts (radio, not trousers. Additional voltage will not help the latter) as spektrum rx's are sensitive to low voltage.
|Thread: Home made fuel|
if you try it make sure you get good methanol as there is more than one flavour and some have a high water content. I suspect cheapy stuff will be not the best quality
I dont think i really need to comment on not trying to to set yourself alight do i?
|Thread: SC46 6 months in soil|
Brian if you arent too worried about the 46 you could just plug the hole with JB weld. It would be a bodge up but it would make the engine go again assuming the carb can be rescued. The white corrosion is something i experienced with an SC36 that was in the garage a few years. Its a nice example of why they are cheap, i have never had any other brand of engine suffer to that extent. Clearly not the finest materials used in the castings.
As for the 2st vs 4st question its not a direct size X = size Y as the engines deliver their power in different ways but generally i would agree say that a 50-70 would replace a 46 depending on the use. In a trainer a 50 4 stroke is more than enough, in something like an acrowot then a 60 or perhaps a 70 is likely to do the job better. If you do start using more 4 strokes dont under prop them as they are far better on bigger props.
|Thread: Silly question about 4 strokes|
AS the others have already said 4 stroke fuel is a myth so dont worry. I recommend laser 5 or techpower 5 from model technics. In general you should not need more than 5% nitro if the engine is set up correctly
|Thread: Engine advice|
my 1/4 stampe is 82 inch and 16lbs. it will takeoff and fly at 1/3-1/2 throttle using a laser 180 so i think your's would be fine. Run a large diameter prop of fine pitch (20x6 of the ASP will take it) as this will give you thrust for verticals but without massive straight line speed.
|Thread: SC46 6 months in soil|
After that amount of time the crankcase will be full of crud and i suspect the bearings will be finished. I would pressure wash the outside and then strip down the engine cleaning each part before reassembly and fitting new bearings.
If you attempt the dishwasher method be careful as some dishwasher chemicals are not very kind to aluminium.
|Thread: Saito FA40 Performance Increase|
11x6 on a 40 4 stroke should be pretty good. which model is it fitted to and do you know top end rpm?
As for OS clangers the two that come to mind immediately are the 70 surpass ultimate and the 70fl. I owned an FL and it was dreadful. it just would not run right and got so flippin hot! A friend had a similar experience with the 70 ultimate and eventually abandoned the pump, put a standard os carb on it, and then it worked fine.
I think the roots supercharged 120 was trying to compete with YS? not exactly sure but either way i have never seen one run
how much power is it making now? and on what prop? often a prop change can make a huge difference in 'power'
|Thread: Selecting Servos for a New Model|
cant fault any of this advice
if you set them up sensibly and fly scale then standard 3.5kg jobs would work fine. I used 148 futaba servos on a 72'' 155 powered P40 and had no trouble at all running a 6v battery.
Personally, i would use standard servos as they are more than adequate. That said, if you want peace of mind by using 5kg servos as Percy suggested then go for it, just dont feel you have to and dont get suckered in by tales of 9kg digital etc.
Metal gear or digital is nice, but certainly not required for a model this size.
If you want a little more than standard give savox 351's a try. 4kg at 6v and more than adequate. I use a few of these on the rudder's of my 80'' 50cc class warbirds. Ailerons on these models get 6.5kg savox 352's.
|Thread: 20 cc V-twin two stroke|
Really nice work on the crankcase Jeff.
As for the cylinders, given the relative simplicity turning new ones is probably the best bet. It would have been a shame to contaminate your shiny crankcase with filthy old cylinders anyway.
What surface finish are you going for? will it just be left in the natural ali?
|Thread: Ever wondered why the engine won’t start?|
Yup, the holes are identical sizes so they do fit in both.
In the old days we used to ship the engines with the carbs removed but despite a diagram in the instructions showing correct placement we had loads of engines back with them in the wrong place so i just leave the carb on the engine now.
|Thread: Which Set Should I buy|
Futaba or hitec would be my suggestion. I use futaba myself and have always found it totally reliable
|Thread: What prop for a Saito 125a four stoke engine ?|
15x8 is a good size. if the model is flying well enough then i would leave well enough alone. i also doubt it would take a 16x8
|Thread: Binding wire for solder joints|
i have to confess it has gone over my head. Perhaps its all the flux smoke
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