By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Jon - Laser Engines

Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Winter build, best option?
18/07/2014 09:03:34

As if by magic.....**LINK**

laser cut parts and cowl etc are listed at the bottom somewhere. I am sure a conversion could be made to make it into a nimrod if you wanted. Having found it im half tempted to get it myself, I have a laser 80 that needs a home and im sure it would be the ideal powerplant

Thread: Does your club allow members to fly by themselves?
16/07/2014 10:13:43

We do not recommend it but we realise that its not always possible for that to happen

Thread: Test Pilot Required For Maiden Flight Of My Model Please!
15/07/2014 10:24:25

where are you bob? I would be glad to help

Thread: Laser 80 in a Wots Wot
13/07/2014 21:49:52

I fitted one to an acrowot with no drama. alas no photos but I cant see why it should be an issue. can you show us a photo of the problem you are having?

Thread: Head Temperature
13/07/2014 21:48:30

260 sounds way over the top. In my experience 100-130c is more the order of the day. if in doubt, spit on your engine. if it really is 260 it will not hang about for long but at 120 or so it should take a second to evaporate

Thread: Four Strokes Only Please
09/07/2014 16:24:36

Hi Bob

While I have no doubt that user error is often a part of it, I have never seen one of the DB mounts work in the intended way. The engine always flops about all over the place and basically rattles itself to death. Given the outrageous cost of the mount it is, to me anyway, a total waste of time and expense. A good quality (read as, not the cheap crap often supplied with ARTF kits) glass nylon mount is perfectly satisfactory and has enough flex to reduce vibrations.

If you have them working well then fair play and good luck to you

As for props, in the old days a 10x6 would have been great for something like a 40fp or LA. But the newer gen engines (ball raced abc especially) are much more oomphy without doubt. I am a little critical of many engine manufacturers here for not listing larger diameter props but instead ones with really high pitch. This is mostly an issue with 4 strokes as we were discussing above.

Edited By Jon Harper on 09/07/2014 16:28:08

08/07/2014 18:18:34

Personally I wouldn't touch one of those dubro mounts with a barge pole. They cause more problems than they ever solve and can damage your engine as it flops about all over the place. The big mistake people make with 4 strokes is running small props. They seem to forget that 4 strokes can swing bigger props and don't need to be doing 12000rpm. My little saito 45 is turning a 13x5 turnigy prop at 8200 and is lovely in my flair nieuport. Most of my other 4 strokes (mainly Laser) run between 7000 and 8500rpm and are not an issue noise wise.

08/07/2014 11:53:22

4 strokes without doubt make a similar amount of noise as a two stroke, but as previously stated it is less annoying due (I believe) to the lower frequency. Model diesel two strokes (doing normal rpm not crazy control line rpm) are similar. If you think about all the noises that annoy you or set your teeth on edge, like the white noise from a tv, a dentist drill etc etc they are all high frequency/pitch. Also passers by are more used to the sound of a 4 stroke flying over head in a full size aircraft so its less noticeable and blends into the background.

We have only had 2 noise complains in recent times. one was for a 50cc petrol that was audible over a mile away (face palm) and the other was a zagi with an electric motor doing massive rpm. While making less noise the zagi was so annoying that it caused a complaint. None of my 4 strokes (from saito 45, laser 150, laser 300v asp 64cc radial etc) have ever attracted any complaints even though the saito and the asp were totally unsilenced.

I think a perceived noise test should be introduced, ie if its over 82db but sounds quiet in the air then let it fly. The opposite should be true as well, if its 78 but really nasty in the air then get it down!


Also, all two strokes should be banned anyway as four strokes are just better

Edited By Jon Harper on 08/07/2014 11:53:47

Thread: Four stroke engine woes
05/07/2014 19:36:13

The cause of the failure could be down to your modifications. Some years ago a chap in Europe suggested to Laser customers that they fit drain nipples in the rocker covers of inverted engines to remove the oil that would collect down there. This led to a spat of engines seizing, all of them had this exact modification in place.

Needless to say, Laser themselves do not recommend fitting a drain nipple to the rocker cover

Edited By Jon Harper on 05/07/2014 19:36:50

Thread: Newbie - What size 4 stroke for an Irvine tutor?
03/07/2014 09:06:33

Personally I disagree with flyboy. Any impact strong enough to break a 4 stroke will break a twostroke as well. Also with modern buddy systems the chance of a full on 'vertical piledrive manoeuver' is much reduced. He is correct that they are more complex, but a few more wiggly bits is a small price to pay for a much cleaner model and a much nicer power delivery.

Thread: Tailplane - Built Up or Solid Balsa?
02/07/2014 12:21:29

Believe it or not tapering to a fine point will cause flutter in some instaces. There is no doubt a complicated formula for working it out. I wouldn't want to leave it like a cliff, but there is no need to bring it down to a razor blade.

As for the built up vs slab tail issue, weight has been well covered, but a built up tail can also be more resistant to warps and twists due to multiple grain directions. they also look cool!

Thread: first small ic plane
02/07/2014 12:15:31

If you can do it then I would suggest going up a bit on your model size. Small IC engines can be a fiddle and as has been said bigger models fly better. I would look at something like a wot 4 or acrowot as a nice 50-60 4 stroke would work brilliantly. if you cannot live with a model of this size then there are other smaller options. Also are you looking build or get an ARTF?

Thread: Newbie - What size 4 stroke for an Irvine tutor?
02/07/2014 12:11:58

Hi John

a 52 would be more than enough but as the 61 is the same physical size and only a few quid dearer there is no reason not to use it. A friend had an old tutor powered with an asp52 4 stroke and it flew very well. Just make sure you can get a 12x6 prop on it. Don't use 11x7 as the model will be too fast when landing.

Edited By Jon Harper on 02/07/2014 12:12:38

Thread: Choosing an engine for HK Super Cub EP 80in ARF
27/06/2014 08:46:03

I used to have an 80inch cub and it was overpowered on a 70 4 stroke so I swapped it for a 52 which was still too much. Cubs are all wing and no weight, you can use a very small engine for scale performance.

Thread: Sea Fury FB11 Build
06/06/2014 10:09:37

If there was a 4 stroke petrol available that was not crazy money and would run reliably on that non stinky aspen fuel then for sure I would be up for it, but sadly, no such beast exists

As for the fury, how heavy are you expecting? I have heard reports of the YT up at 25lbs

Thread: who is at fault?????
06/06/2014 10:02:28

From your description I would take it up with the shop you bought it from. If they like it or not they sold it to you and thus its their problem. they can choose to get the uk importer to deal with you directly, but they still need to set that up. if you can find out who brings phoenix into the uk, and who specifically supplies your shop then you can go at it.

My only word of caution is that if you powered the model with a 60 when it calls for a 40, or something along those lines, or did a full power dive out of your loop then you will most likely be out of luck. Its actually quite easy to flutter the wings/tail off of a large number of models, especially artfs as they tend to be built light. It would be interesting to see a picture of the departed wing.

Thread: Rate switches
05/06/2014 19:17:46

Personally I have high rates as switch towards me and low rates switch away. this is because its easy to whack the switch away if the high rate is too much. also my timer and under carriage switches are on/up towards me, so my preflight is easy as all the switches should be set to away

Thread: Laser 160V setup teething troubles
05/06/2014 16:47:06

Is that the hobby king Ki61? I had one of those but sold it to a friend. It was so light that it didn't really need flaps and did climb as you say. Most of the heftier warbirds wont climb with flap down

05/06/2014 13:49:04

I have not owned one of these but have flown many models like this. I have also seen the video on the ripmax site where the bloke almost flips it on its back with his hamfisted approach. Flaps will help for sure as they will cause the wing root to stall first. As a general rule if you need to mix elevator with the flaps then you are flying too fast or do not have them down far enough. My La7 has very large flaps which pull the nose down slightly, I am able to control the decent using the power not the elevator. I then use elevator in the last foot or so to flair out. Whatever you do don't try and pull it in using a long flat approach with the nose high. I went though all of this in depth on another thread about a spitfire, people seemed to think it was helpful.

the biggest mistake people make with warbirds is having the elevator movement like you would find on a sport model and this make the thing so twitchy they dumb it down with expo. This causes more problems. I would be surprised if more than 12mm elevator is needed up/down.

Thread: Sea Fury FB11 Build
05/06/2014 08:19:31

Its funny as I look at petrol as more fuss than glow. you need another battery, another switch, you need to find somewhere for the ignition (not a problem in a model this size granted), then you need to mix up the fuel, you need to take a fire extinguisher to the field (I know no one does but they ought) and as for the carbs...well, they are so easy to block with any debris, the diaphragms degrade over a time and they are far more critical than a glow engine. long story short, there is just so much more to go wrong. Every model at my club power by a petrol engine is much less reliable than any of my glows. Its been over 5 years since my last dead stick.

There is no doubt petrol is cleaner running, but I will gladly give my model 20 seconds worth of wiping down if I don't have to put up with the stink of petrol everywhere I go.

As for cost of the fuel, I get through 200 quid in glow fuel per year in my models but my car gets through 70 quids worth of petrol every 10 days. To me, its insignificant compared to other costs in life

The real thing for me is the twostroke issue, I stopped using them years ago and all the petrol 4 strokes are either very cheap and Chinese, or insanely expensive

But, I look forward to seeing your model. I am just finishing a YT Seafury myself and will be fitting the engine shortly..i hope, there are many other things on the go!

Edited By Jon Harper on 05/06/2014 08:25:04

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Gliders Distribution
electricwingman 2017
Cambridge Gliding Club
Pepe Aircraft
Wings & Wheels 2019
Advertise With Us
Do you use a throttle kill switch?
Q: This refers to electric-powered models but do you use a throttle kill switch?


Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us