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Member postings for Jon - Laser Engines

Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: bmfa b test
23/09/2014 11:30:23

Hi Richie

Your approach sounds fine. I was not aware of your flying experience hence my comments before. I have to say that if it were my choice I would use the acrowot and not the wot4. The wot4 will do all you ask of it but having owned both I think the acrowot has the edge as I found it more fun to fly and looks better! the new ARTF one is good as well when teamed up with a nice 4 stroke. I test flew one last weekend for someone and apart from some excessive rates flew nicely

Thread: Advice on a secondhand Flair SE5A
23/09/2014 08:59:18

No worries, it was a surprise find for me so I thought I would share it!

Anyway Flyer, has your Se5a committed aviation yet?

Thread: bmfa b test
23/09/2014 08:54:58

I used the Hangar 9 pulse 60 for mine. Brilliant model both for the test and for general flying.

One thing that concerns me slightly, although I might have misunderstood, is that it seems you want to buy a model, do the test and then mothball it to fly warbirds? This would be a mistake as everything becomes far easier if the model you do the test with is one you have flown day in day out in all weathers and know like the back of your hand. that way you have total confidence in the model and its systems/reliability and all you have to do is fly it on the day and do what are relatively simple aerobatics. Also as a warbird flyer myself I can tell you that having a sport model you really know well will help you with your warbird flying. A friend at my club was having awful trouble getting his warbirds down as his approaches were poor. With a sport model he got away with it as he was confident with that model, but with the warbirds he was not. So, I got him practicing proper approaches for a whole day with his sport model. he then tried the warbird and felt more confident from the get go and was much more successful getting it down on the deck. As it happens, the primary thing the test is looking for is this accuracy and planning. Anyone can pull a loop, but to pull a loop centred on yourself with wind etc requires some planning and that's what the test is looking for. The same is true for landing and all of the other things you need to do.

Above all, don't rush it. Don't rush the flying on the day, don't rush your practice, and don't rush to get the test done. Having a B cert does not magically make you a better flyer. Also be aware that you might have to do the test with other models in the air. you should be able to cope with this and communicate with the other pilots. I had 4 models up with me when I did my B. This was done deliberately so see how I dealt with the pressure. remember that the B allows you to fly in public so think how you might feel with 5000 people watching you and 4 or 5 other models in the air? I am not trying to put you off at all, im just saying there is a lot more to think about than just flying the right model.

You have made the right choice by asking for advice and the wot4/acrowot suggestions are good ones. Other good models are the pulse series from H9, the great planes Escapade is likely to be good as well but in truth almost any model will do.

I hope this was of use and wish you luck!

Thread: Castor oil - alternative to after run oil?
22/09/2014 14:48:20

I never use after run or castor and do not have issues with rusting. I do run 4 strokes only which are less vulnerable to rusting in the crankcase as there is never any methanol down there to draw the moisture in

Thread: What did you learn with?
22/09/2014 10:51:32

I learned to fly in the mid to late 90's on the two models my dad had airworthy at the time. They were the well known Flair Pup and the complete a pac twin engine harrow bomber! I flew other models as well, but the pup was the real mainstay.

These days though there are many options, but I personally still think that a 4 channel 40 size IC trainer is the best option. The electric foamy stuff has taught some bad habits to the guys at my club who use them as they get used to landing at 2mph!

Thread: Brand spanking new
22/09/2014 10:46:22

As it happens that spitfire is one of the easier ones to fly due its deviations from exact scale. Once you have your A cert and some low wing experience on something like an acrowot after your trainer I think you will be pretty well set. Don't make the mistake of rushing or getting rid of your trainer too early as most trainers are actually quite capable sport models as well.

Thread: Sea Fury FB11 Build
22/09/2014 10:43:29

On my YT fury I have not bothered with the tail wheel doors as it was a pain to get them to work so I gave up and just cut out a hole big enough for the wheel to get through but not so large that it was unsightly. I did however go the whole hog on the inner and outer gear doors using one of the sequencing units from hobby king. I am happy with the result even though its not perfect. Right now though im desperately trying to get back to the model so I can finish it as other things (repairs mosty) have got in the way!

Thread: Which needle is which?
17/09/2014 11:14:41

The black wire main needle may be stuck if the pinch nut has been overtightened. At the base of each main needle there is a small brass nut which tightens onto a taper. This adjusts the needle friction from nothing to locked solid.

Thread: How do I get my Laser 80 below 82db
17/09/2014 11:11:07

I am not a fan of the g-sonic props. Very noisy and very fragile. If you read the leaflet that comes with it the limiting rpm is very low and will be exceeded by most engines with ease.

Thread: Laser 80 Engine
16/09/2014 11:24:55

oh yea, I totally did not spot that. I was under the impression that this was a new thread! embarrassed

Oh well. as for the HP question that started off the thread I would say somewhere around 1.2 at normal operating rpm (8000-9000) but no doubt it will be higher at higher rpm

Thread: Advice on a secondhand Flair SE5A
16/09/2014 09:42:36

The little saito will be plenty of power for scale flying. And to kill two birds with one stone, the apc 12x5 should be fine but I would use the turnigy wood type A 13x5.

It must be the type A as they are very thin blades which run much faster (2500rpm in some cases) faster than another prop of the same diameter and pitch. This allows a much larger diameter than usual to be used. My saito takes the 13x5 turnigy to 8400rpm but if I use a master airscrew it just dies. I did a similar experiment with a laser 61 and got about 9000 from the master and 11500 from the turnigy. One thing was for sure, at 11500rpm that 25 year old laser was really steaming along!

Whatever prop you use on the saito keep the rpm above 8000 and ideally closer to 9000.

Thread: Dle55 is it too big
16/09/2014 09:36:05

55cc will tear it apart. The specs call for a 180 4 stroke which is only 30cc.

A chap at my club has a 90inch sbach with a dle55 in it and the thing is ballistic.

Thread: Duxford chaos on Sunday.
15/09/2014 14:03:16

I saw the writing on the wall on Friday and decided not to even attempt going. Im really glad I didn't now. I have never had this problem before with duxford, I think they shot themselves in the foot by only having the two lancasters display on one day only. This was always going to make one day more attractive than the other and focus attendance.

The whole thing sounds like the experience I had as cosford earlier in the year. I arrived about 3 miles from the gate at 8.30 (when the gates opened) and it took almost 2 hours to get in from there. I had a similar experience in 07 when the Vulcan first flew there but this time we didn't get into the show after 5 hours waiting. Cosford is the worst organised show I have ever experienced and I will never go again. I only went this year as some friends were over from the USA and wanted to see the red arrows.

Thread: Wing main spars
15/09/2014 10:16:23

sadly the pictures do not display for me

Thread: Advice on a secondhand Flair SE5A
15/09/2014 10:00:42

Looks great, which engine did you go for in the end?

Thread: Laser 80 Engine
15/09/2014 09:58:34
Posted by Martin Harris on 13/09/2014 12:47:05:

The 150 is designed to be capable of turning a large prop relatively slowly and is quoted as being "equivalent" to a normal 120 but as far as I'm aware this is the only one specifically designed to produce a lower power output than the average 4 stroke glow.

With the current range of engines this is no longer accurate. The modern 150 (series 6) is on average 300-400rpm faster than the original on the same prop/plug/fuel. The entire range was totally updated in 2012-13.

Kevin, if your engine is a 75 then 13x6 or 14x6 would be a good choice of prop, the 61 works well on 12x6 or 13x6. for some reason the photos have not appeared on your post so its hard to identify!

Thread: Wot 4 xl so it's a OS 91 surpass or DLE 20 petrol......Thoughts and advice needed
15/09/2014 08:41:04

I used a Laser 150 and Laser 155 on mine. Went like a scalded cat in both instances!

Thread: Large B-29 Display mishap - USA
12/09/2014 13:57:14

Im not sure if anyone has spotted this but his no1 engine (left outer) is noticeable down on rpm. The frame rate of the video shows it very clearly. He should have felt this and aborted no question.

I have flown many twin and 4 engine models and you must keep the airspeed up in an engine out situation. Using the cut it and glide method will result in a crash every time as you will invariably need some extra power at some point but will be too slow to maintain control. Often full power will be required on the remaining engine to keep in the air. 4 engine models do not suffer so badly if they loose one. This is all fine if the model is already flying, if its on the ground like our friend here then he needs to give up and abort.

This also highlights why I thing standing to the side of the model when taking off is more dangerous than being behind. While I accept that its more difficult to judge airspeed from behind the track of the model is far easier to judge.

Thread: Wing main spars
12/09/2014 13:44:06

You can use the spars without worry. Balsa is a natural material and it will always bend a bit. If you set it so that the bend is helping you then it will be ok. In the case of a wing spar I would set it so that the bend was up and down not fore and aft. This is because you will have ribs and webs to hold it straight in this direction and one balsa stick wont overcome that lot.

You might also want to consider bringing all of this together. At my last count you seem to have at least 3 threads going to the build issues on one model. I think it would be better for yourself and anyone else looking for help to have everything in the same thread

Edited By Jon Harper on 12/09/2014 13:45:06

Thread: Mick Reeves 1/3rd Scale Pup
11/09/2014 23:11:42

Hi Jez, there are no instructions of any kind supplied with the kit. Apart from a single A4 sheet that basically says 'open box, build kit'. there is a totally useless set of poorly printed images that are supposed to help with the undercarriage and that's about it.

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