Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Upgrading Windows7 to Win10 for free|
Good point. I was assuming the system was new enough. Its easy to tell though as you say. Big flat ribbon leads means its time for the bin!
All you need is a standard SATA cable (10 a penny on ebay or similar) and a SATA power connector which should already be spare inside the computer. If you whip the side panel off and have a rummage around to see what spare connectors are coming off the power supply.
As long as you choose any standard 2.5' inch SSD then it will use the standard SATAIII Interface. This is backwards compatible with older motherboards with SATAII controllers so they will more or less work with anything.
The differnces between MX, BX, and all the other flavours from the various brands is usually down to the type of flash memory used in the drive, its cache, controller, sustained read/write performance and random read/write performance.
For general day to day computing none of it matters, just choose the cheapest.
Drivers are a funny thing and i have to confess that i only update them if i have to as more often than not updates break more stuff than they fix!
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Our smallest is a 70 now (the 50 was discontinued in 1986 i think) and we have a customer in the netherlands using 4 of them to power a 158 inch B17 so 6 in a 108 inch B36 will be a bit much.
I also flew a 100'' Hercules on 4 ASP 30 4 strokes some time back and it was fine so if you wanted the full 6 engines then its likely you would need to go really small.
|Thread: Upgrading Windows7 to Win10 for free|
Microsoft claim windows 10 is the last windows they will make. Its just going to be incremental upgrades from here on.
As for problems i find W10 pretty good now. The search function is useless, and unless you manually disable them in the privacy options it collects tons of data like everything does now. But its driver support is great and its tolerant of things windows 7 was not. I upgraded a friends machine recently as we took the W10 install off of his old hard drive, cloned it onto a new SSD and installed it in the new machine. Within 3 minutes W10 had detected all the new hardware, downloaded all the new drivers automatically, and reactivated itself on the new system. W7 would have pooped itself at that. W10 is also slightly better for updates as you can choose to just update to the latest version instead of having to download every update in order like in W7.
|Thread: Which engine ?|
Laser 70's are in stock if you dont find a good deal
yep, if you have one already its a good choice. If not and you are shopping anything 60-70 would work well.
|Thread: Upgrading Windows7 to Win10 for free|
If its an old laptop the hard drive might be dog slow. A modern machine probably came with a SSD or eMMC flash as a hard drive. Even if it didnt, a modern hard drive is still faster than those from years ago.
For those looking to reinstall windows/upgrade your hard drive you have a few choices.
You can clone you existing drive onto the new one. As the name suggests its an exact clone of what you have. I use a program called aomei backupper as its free and works well. The only 'hard' part is making sure your new drive is configured correctly as either MBR, GPT or Dynamic. Its not as difficult as it sounds once you know where to go.
After the clone you would then need to update to windows 10. You can do this using the media creation tool (search google)
As an alternative, you can use the media tool to create installation media. You need either a usb drive or a blank dvd for that.
If you choose this, manually back up anything you cant live without onto an external hard drive or whatever. Then tell the system to boot from the usb or dvd drive (you might need to access the bios and change the boot order) and install new windows 10 on either your existing drive (it will wipe it clean) or a new SSD.
It all sounds very complicated but its really not too bad once you get into it.
Good plan if you want to pay more than double for the same hardware just for a status symbol.
If you have a windows 7 licence key on the side of your computer then it will likely work with windows 10. I have upgraded at least 10 machines recently with windows 10 using a 7 licence key and it works fine.
If that fails, you can buy a windows 10 key on ebay for about 3 quid.
Once thing i would suggest is that if you do upgrade to windows 10 you also upgrade the hard drive in your computer to a SSD as they are much much faster. Windows 10 loves to talk to the hard drive and all that chit chat slows the system down. As SSD's (solid state drives) are so much faster the constant access by windows is not a problem.
You can pick up a 120 gig SSD for as little as £15 and if you install windows on it, then use your existing hard drive for data storage you get the best of both worlds.
|Thread: Which engine ?|
I like that exhaust. I am trying to decide what type to make for the OS300 as well as the 160 and that is a type i have considered so knowing it works well is good to know.
As for muffler pressure i didnt use it on the 300 when i flew it and dont use it on the OS FF240 either. most of my lasers run without it (one exception), my Enya's dont need it and neither does my magnum 240 twin. I definitely think its importance exaggerated and its mostly a bandage to cover up poor tank placement
I have an ASP 160 twin as well and is is very smooth running. I have to confess though, the noise on the straight pipes is not to my taste at all. I had the same experience with an OS 300 super gemini but once i fitted a muffler to it then i was sold as it purred like a kitten so i suspect the ASP will be a similar story. Admittedly my engine has never flown as i my friend and i both bought cubs and were going to fly them together. Sadly though, he crashed his before i even got mine out of the box so i sold my model.
Part of the delay was due to me trying to get the engine to run right. Its compression was always poor and the right cylinder always ran rich below half throttle. I have since modded the engine with pistons and rings from a laser 75 and performance has improved. Its still not brilliant though, i might have to make it twin carb or something to fix the imperfections.
Is that an ASP 160? if sop they perform much like a decent 120 single so should be really nice. 1/4 scale is 105 inch right?
In any case, i cant fault any of the comments here. Cubs are great fun and dont need massive power. What they do need however is a good grasp of how to use your rudder. Connecting it to the ailerons on the tx is no good as you often need to use them in opposition!
It would fly on something as small as a 50 4 stroke to be fair. I used to fly a slightly smaller goldberg cub on an OS48 and it was quite happy at under half throttle. I also flew a customers 94 inch cub with a laser 100 and it was well over powered for scale. Cubs fly with their wings not their props so its best not to go mad.
All things considered, i would use a 70 in it and throw something like a 15x5 prop to keep the thrust high and the speed down.
|Thread: Stuck piston ring|
I cant disagree with anything thats been said. The only thing you need to try and decide is what is holding the ring.
If its castor then by all means try and rescue it. At work i have used drops of methanol and a sharp tool i have to try and pry the ring gap open but that only works with oil residue.
If you think the ring has rusted into the slot then you might do better to just go nuts and take it out in pieces as a rusty ring will need to be replaced anyway. This was the case on my enya 53 and i asked the chap on ebay to make me a slightly oversize replacement as i had to do some surgery to the liner with a brush hone to take out some light rust pitting.
|Thread: What size model?|
Like most i started on smaller models with 30-50 size engines but then moved up to bigger stuff. I remember the first time i flew a friends 88 inch spitfire and thinking 'yup, this is where its at'.
As i mostly fly scale and have a big thing for WWII fighters i have settled on the 70-90 inch span sort of bracket with most hanging around the 80 inch mark. My sport models are 76 and 80 inch as well.
The reason for this is that these bigger models look awesome, fly better, can handle the added weight of retracts etc without getting to heavy to fly, have better/stronger retracts available, are easier to work on, and are not too big to transport and store. I also find that they are not that much more than a 65-70 inch model in cost but offer so much more.
Many people often comment that they cant transport a model that big in their normal hatchback and are surprised when i tell them that in a pinch i could transport 3 80 inch warbirds in a ford focus/vw golf sized car. Its just a matter of careful placement,
In any case, its unlikely i will go much larger than 90 inch as i dont want to be in the position Bob mentioned where i need to make vehicle choices based upon fitting models into it. I dont want a van so i will keep to models that fit in a normal car and i think the 97 inch La7 i have plans for will be the absolute limit for me....unless i win the lottery, then i wont care and can just airlift the things in if i have to
Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 11/01/2020 11:05:56
|Thread: DB Hurricane paint and finish.|
Its been a little while since i posted an update as not a great deal has been going on, at least, not visibly.
Its all been boring stuff like final fitting of fuel tanks, fuel proofing the tank bay and general tidying up of all the construction as well as the usual rinse and repeat of filling and sanding, priming and sanding etc.
Now all of that stuff is out of the way i have been able to add the litho panels to the fuselage side and modified the hatch cover to meet the cowling. The cowl itself has had the exhaust slots cut to allow me to stretch it slightly for a perfect fit.
The wing has been sanded to within an inch of its life and i then couldnt resist shooting it with a can of black spray paint i had on the shelf just to see how it would look. I kinda like it, but i also kinda like the natural aluminium finish i ended up with on the flaps after i finished them with aluminium tape. A polished aluminium Hurricane is really tempting but i dont think its worth it on this model as there is too much to put right on the overall surface finish so i am leaning back towards the idea of a night fighter.
|Thread: Phone APP for RPM reading.|
Its not ideal as most tacho's are pretty slow to respond and not brilliantly accurate. My tach has gaps in it and would bounce between say 8600 and 8800 as it for some reason cant display 8700. I think 8300 is another gap in its output. No idea why it should be like that but it is.
Also, even with the best will in the world folk will rev chase. I have to fight the urge myself when testing engines at work as i tach every one after tuning to make sure its working as it should. There are days when a batch of engines is really slow due to weather, and the temptation to screw the life out of it for more rpm is immense as i know they should be 300rpm faster than they are. There isnt anything wrong with them, its just the conditions, but i like it when they go fast! More revs engine room and all that stuff.
Great theory, but as i already explained you cant tune with a tacho as the rpm the engine can achieve is not a constant and it very frequently leads to problems. This is not true of manufacturing as the goal is to make everything the same. At the level we are working engines cannot be operated 'by the numbers'. Its not possible to say that you use a given engine on a given prop at however many turns on the needle and it will do a certain rpm. You just cant set engines up that way and over reliance on numbers leads many people down the wrong path.
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