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Member postings for Jon - Laser Engines

Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What prop for a Saito 125a four stoke engine ?
31/10/2018 21:51:10

15x8 is a good size. if the model is flying well enough then i would leave well enough alone. i also doubt it would take a 16x8

Thread: Binding wire for solder joints
31/10/2018 20:44:44
Posted by Steve Dunne on 31/10/2018 20:32:53:

Had to think about that one, BTC...

i have to confess it has gone over my head. Perhaps its all the flux smoke

Thread: Ever wondered why the engine won’t start?
31/10/2018 13:25:25

If i had a pound for every time someone did this....

Thread: Binding wire for solder joints
31/10/2018 11:10:08

Cheers guys

I hadnt really searched yet so its nice to see plenty of options. The ebay situation looks like good value but i will check out the others as well.

All i have to do now is choose one and repair the struts on my stampe without screwing up the wing geometry. Should be fun :\

31/10/2018 10:26:21

I am looking for a reliable source of wire for binding solder joints. I used to strip the wire out of CAT5 network cable but most of those are stranded now and not solid core. I found a few places selling copper wire on spools but most of it is coated so no good for solder.

I know i can used fuse wire, but that is getting hard to find as well so if anyone has a source for this stuff please let me know

Thread: Slowing down a Boomerang II trainer
30/10/2018 08:33:15

I would imagine that the issue is the way you are doing the approach. The model should already be quite slow on the downwind and the rest of the speed should bleed off as you turn to final. Its likely your experience with lighter models, which decelerate faster, is leading you to start slowing down too late in the day. Your perception of the models weight is likely skewed a bit as well due to the lighter models being so floaty.

In general i agree with the other suggestions here but also recommend that you get some practice flying the model slowly. Take it up high, pull power off and see just how much nose up attitude it can really take before you stall. I suspect you will end if with a significant amount of back pressure on the stick and a low throttle setting and still remain in level flight. This is essentially the position you want when you are 2 inches off the ground for landing so having an idea of how the model behaves in this condition is vital

Thread: 20 cc V-twin two stroke
29/10/2018 20:46:59

hmm thats a bit unfortunate. I suppose the two options are to either block the passage on one, or open the passage on the other. Your plans seem to suggest a 3 port layout so perhaps give that a go?

Thread: How Much Expo
29/10/2018 15:46:11

I hope you have prepared yourself Dave, this is a topic likely to excite!

Anyway i start with no expo and only add it if i have to once the rates are set. Out of 13 airworthy models only 2 have expo and then only 10% and only on 1 channel.

Im really not a fan of large amounts of expo as it makes models horrible to fly. As i have mentioned before a friend had a spitfire that was impossible to land. He had 70% rates and 60% expo. I changed the settings to 35% rates and no expo. The model was then an absolute delight and the landing problem was totally gone.

Thread: Saito 125 performance
29/10/2018 14:38:05

I usually expect around 8500 on 15x8 on a 120 size 4 stroke so i think its doing ok.

Thread: Adding Oil
27/10/2018 23:10:51

im with Peter on this one. synthetic oils are far better than they were and frankly there is no advantage to running castor. The bekra fuel is fine, model technics laser 5 and techpower 5 would also be good choices.

Thread: Which engine for a Mark 2 Acrowot ARTF
27/10/2018 19:33:00

should be a nice combination. 12x6 prop would be my suggestion

Thread: Adding Oil
27/10/2018 19:31:25
Posted by Roger Dyke on 27/10/2018 18:37:16:

The engine in question is an Enya 15-III of about 1973 vintage when I purchased it new. It's in good condition and has had about 2 years in total run time. The reason for the request comes from the original instructions which states 20% castor oil. I understand that the engine has a steel piston and liner which is not the same as the more modern engines. I know that models do get very gluey with this amount of oil. I just want to be fair to the engine.

Roger

I wouldnt worry personally. I have run old os's that demanded 20% castor using 15% synthetic and they have never been happier!

27/10/2018 17:20:58

is there a reason you want more oil? 15% is more than enough. In fact, with most engines you would be fine with just the 9% synthetic!

Thread: VQ ARTFs at Hobbyking?
27/10/2018 15:07:33

In my experience all VQ models fly well but they are let down by the covering and the general build quality. If you dont mind spending a little while with the glue, and perhaps even an hour with some glass cloth to beef up the extremely fragile ABS parts then you will end up with a really nice model

Thread: Building, when does it become too expensive to fly
25/10/2018 14:35:11
Posted by Tony Harrison 2 on 25/10/2018 13:53:42:

I don't know how much time, effort and money these bold macho "shouldn't play this game if you're scared of crashing" types put into their first models; maybe they have very thick skins, or only fly RTF plastic jobs, and/or have very deep pockets.

 

Its not about being macho Tony, its just a fact. Models will crash and there is not one of us who has never binned one. Given that fact, if loosing a single model is unbearable to a person then the reality is its not the hobby for them.

I am not saying that we should all be nonchalant when it comes to crashes, but equally there has to be some acceptance of the risk involved and an acceptance that it might go home in a bag. Personally, i build most of my models from scratch so there is a great deal of time invested in them. I am also not made of money so they need to have a decent life span to give me some sort of ROI. There is also the emotional attachment and most of us who have built a model have some attachment to it.

But, none of the above will keep it on the ground as i built it to fly and fly it will. My maiden flights are always a nervous time just the same as anyone else's would be. I just try to minimise the risks by building the model as well as i can in the first place, checking all of the systems as best i can for reliability, choosing a good day etc. After that its down to my skills and things i just cant guard against.

One thing to consider though is that not flying a model much for fear of crashing it is likely to increase the chances of a crash when you do fly it due to lack of familiarity with it.

To me, model flying is like that scene in the film Rush where Niki Lauda pulls out of the race in Japan as the risk is too high. He didnt retire from being a racing driver, just in that moment it was too much risk. In flying terms this can mean the weather is not right, something with the systems of the model is not right, or i just dont feel right about it. In the case of beginners the right help may not be available that day. In these cases it is absolutely the right thing to do to leave it on the ground. But, just as Niki went back to racing on another day, the model has to fly sometime. Its just a case of balancing the risk.

 

Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 25/10/2018 14:38:48

Thread: Seagull p47
25/10/2018 11:59:02
Posted by Joakim Karlsson 1 on 25/10/2018 11:52:05:
Very neat installation.
How does the Laser fare being inverted?

Also, I have an older version of the Laser 100. Should I bother installing a pressure nipple on the exhaust?

If you lower the tank as Tim describes it will be happy as a clam. Pressure is not required and not recommended

Thread: Seagull FW 190
25/10/2018 08:38:17

I always seek to enhance any artf's i build. I just cant build them totally stock, i have to alter something!

Thread: Building, when does it become too expensive to fly
24/10/2018 09:12:51
Posted by Geoff Parkes on 24/10/2018 09:02:56:

viscious tip stall from say 40 feet no way of correcting it and the plane went in hard ,

This is why i always test the stall on a new model at a good height before attempting to land. It has saved my bacon more than once!

David, you wont need anything excessive on a model like that as its not exactly a rocketship. I would say that anything 6-9kg standard size would be plenty.

24/10/2018 08:37:58

I had a conversation with a guy once who had built a model for a scale competition. It was an absolute stunner by all accounts and had taken many years to build.

To cut a long story short, he was retiring the model after only 2 test flights, 3 flights in the competition (it won) and then one more at his club. when i asked why he explained the level of the build and how he couldnt cope with the idea of crashing it so was going to hang it from his ceiling.

To me this makes no sense as he built the model for a purpose, to win, and it did, so now it hardly matters if you lawn dart it into a field. Also after all that work why would you not enjoy the model by flying it? Hung in a roof it will always degrade due to u/v, heat, dust etc so hanging it up is not going to save it from damage.

If a model is being built as a static display item then fine, but if you are building an airworthy model then it makes no sense not to fly it. Fear of crashing it is natural for sure, but you just have to roll that dice and take what comes.

Thread: Gloster Gladiator fuel tank position
23/10/2018 19:03:18

I have to agree with Alan. Its only wood after all!

Fitting the tank transverse way cause issues as large angles of bank can leave the clunk high and dry causing the engine to stop

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