Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Are all chargers unreliable?|
my 2 sigma chargers live in the garage or shed. On occasion they are drenched in condensation out there and sometimes fall off benches or whatever else and have been trodden on a few times. One also got leaked on by a model so its a bit oily now.
As both are 10 years old i can only assume that treating them with total disregard extends their service life
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Nice one Chris.
Now you can see that fish you will always hear it
And no, i dont expect else anyone to understand that
|Thread: Warbird Flyers, highly tapered wings...|
Like Bob i have an La7. Its pretty infamous by now and its highly tapered wings did give me cause for concern when i originally bought it. Once trimmed out on the test flight the first thing i did was a stall test. I was pleasantly surprised, all was well and as i was just about to shrug my shoulders and forget it the darn thing flipped on its back and went into a 60 degree inverted dive. Recovery was no problem due to the height i had chosen to do my test, but yikes!
So, to summarise it was very tolerant to a point and after that it just threw itself at the ground. 9 years later its still flying and i dont even think about the stall. I know where it is and know how to fly around it so its really not a concern at all.
I dont see high speed stalls being a problem in warbirds as you dont tend to yank them around like a cap or extra. If flown smoothly its really not a problem. Again stalls on landing should never happen if the right approach is flown. For me stalling a warbird is the most likely on an aborted landing. Say you touch down, catch a bump and bounce. You are now 2ft in the air again you have a very small window to get the power on and go around. You cant float it down from there, warbirds are too heavy, you can just firewall it as it will torque roll/spin, and you cant be too gentle as you do need to accelerate. This is the real danger zone in my experience.
As for flaps, all of my current models have split flaps but a flap is a flap. Full flaps tend to be a little more effective but its not something to loose any sleep over. I do find them pretty vital but most of my warbirds are very big and heavy. On a smaller one i would fit them as you can always not use them if they give you nothing. Its easier to do that than add them after you find you need them.
|Thread: 80” Mick Reeves Hurricane|
I used to have one of these. Flew with a laser 120 and was about 14lbs i think. I sold it in the end as it wasnt scale enough for my taste and i was going to use the cash to finish the DB Hurricane i had. Didnt quite pan out though as i must have sold the model 10 years ago and still havent finished the DB!
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Not really, i can only set the engine to suit my test bench so they always need adjusting to suit the model they are fitted too. It might only be 1/16 of a turn on the slow run, it might be a full turn, but they will all need a little tweak
Tigerman, just looking at the specs for the Junkers i would agree with you. At 9lbs and just shy of 70 inch i would recommend the 70 as its the smallest engine we do. If you want to tame the beast a little then a 15x6 will help as it will reduce rpm and make the model feel better. I use a 15x6 wood (cant remember the brand) on my 80 powered Hurricane and the performance is good. I keep meaning to get a master 15x6 as it will suit this model even if they are rubbish props.
Kit manufacturers dont always get their engine recommendations right and they usually lean towards overpowering to guard against heavy builders and (i suspect) the american market. The topflite 60 size warbird series are a classic example as the top end 120fs they recommend is just crazy in a 60 inch model. Seagull did the same with their gipsy moth (120 recommended when an 80 is plenty) and black horse did it with their 45cc chipmunk which is just fine on engines as small as 20cc.
Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 18/09/2019 08:30:35
I always recommend messing with the setting as there is no way i can set it right from the factory to suit every model.
Good to hear its working though.
The correct settings on the needle are the settings at which the engine runs correctly. What those settings are for your engine in your model is anyone's guess
To be clear, starting at 2 on the main and 7 on the slow will more or less guarantee the engine will start but it will still need to be tuned up from there.
So much depends on the specific installation you have in the model and then obviously things like prop, plug and fuel all play their part as well.
When i took my 300v out of my La7 and fitted it to my P39 i had to make huge changes to the settings even though both models had the engine inverted and i was using the same prop, plugs and fuel. Just the fuel system setup was different and it made a huge difference to the needle settings as the mains went from only 3/4 open to just about 1.5 turns open. I cant remember what the slow runners did, but they moved a bunch as well.
The fact that your engine was working in the model and now isnt suggests a fuel system problem or a blockage. I have this exact issue with the right cylinder of the 300v in my P39. It keeps going out after about 6 minutes in the air and as the engine has been reliable for years and cleaning the carb has not fixed it then there must be something wrong with the tank or plumbing. Clearly you are in the same boat.
playing with the idle needle is not a problem, in fact many issues can be fixed with a slow run needle adjustment as they can creep over time. If the original settings have been lost it should be a very quick job to fix it as the engine will usually tell you everything you need to know.
If you have compression, glow, and fuel the engine will fire. It might not run, but it has to fire. If it wont fire at all one of those 3 is missing.
If the engine runs for a short time and stops, especially if you prime it before the start, again the engine has told you the problem and is waiting for you to fix it. Simply put, it ran on the prime and then exhausted its supply of fuel. Clearly it needs more fuel at idle, and that is controlled by our good friend the slow run needle. Just open it a bit and try again. If that isnt enough, keep going until it works!
I keep meaning to try and shoot a video showing how to diagnose this sort of thing but its both difficult to shoot and i am too cowardly to stand in front of a camera
|Thread: Thinking aloud about Spits...|
I only have a normal vw golf size car. Good enough for 3 models of 80 inches without any trouble. Its just a bit of a game getting them all in! Again storage of 5 80+ inch models is easy enough in my 1.8x1m storage bunker. My 50 inch biplane is much more of a pain to store as i dont take the wings off it.
As for price, a grand on a model is easy these days and i actually had this conversation with a friend a year or so ago. He used to fly foamy's and said at the time that no power on this earth would make him spend more than 500 quid for a model. This came up as he is putting the finishing touches on a £1500 thunderbolt and has 3 other models in the 700-800 category. I suspect we would all wince if we added up the cost of our hangars as 3 cheap foamy's can get you up near 700 quid by the time rx's and batteries are accounted for.
Ultimately, no model will ever make its money back. Its just a matter of how much you are prepared to pay to enjoy the hobby. For me my 9 year old La7 of probably £1200 has been well worth the spend as i have enjoyed flying it over a long time and i feel that it now owes me nothing. My Similarly priced sea fury is not there yet after only 5 years so i would feel i didnt get my moneys worth if i lost it tomorrow.
As i allow myself a 'toys and fun' budget for the year of about £1300 (to cover all model purchases, club fees, airshow visits, pc upgrades etc) a model of that nature is a years worth of work in financial terms. The only reason i have so many isnt because im rich, its only because i do my best not to break them.
This is why i have settled in the 70-90 inch warbird bracket as they fly well, look great, can handle the added weight of retracts etc without getting over weight and they are still small enough to transport with a normal car. While more expensive than a 60-65 inch job, they arent that far up there as you could easily blow a grand on a 60 size model so 1200 on an 80 inch job is hardly a disaster...As long as you dont crash it.
The cost is only a concern if you are likely to break it before you stop enjoying it.
Yup, especially with the big radial he had. All that torque needs careful management.
Most of my warbirds are 50cc class and in the case of my sea fury in particular if i abort a landing after a bounce i cant firewall the throttle as full right rudder and aileron will just barely hold it in a 45 degree left bank which is a super dodgy position. That is why i only use half throttle for aborted landings as any more may spin the model.
Similarly my P39 needs full right rudder applied for the first half of the takeoff roll and i still hold some in on climb out as its not yet up to trimmed speed.
A bit late to the party here but plenty of the comments are spot on.
Spitfires, and warbirds in general, are not difficult to fly but do not respond well to the type of flying a trainer or sport model will tolerate with a smile. I am always a fan of a steeper approach with a warbird to keep the nose down and prevent the inevitable stall you get with a flat/powered approach hung on the elevators.
I have not actually owned many spitfires but the two i have flown were both a delight. Admittedly they were both 88inch 5th scale jobbies of 20lbs but they were easy to fly and very easy to land, more so in fact than most other warbirds.
In the video below, our unfortunate corsair pilot holds full up elevator more or less all the way through his takeoff. He was so worried about a nose over he forgot all about flying the model. His lack of directional control on the takeoff roll didnt help either as there was a yaw component going before the model even left the ground. If you cant takeoff in a straight line then practice that before getting a warbird of any kind. Once a model is rolling forward at walking pace its rare it will nose over to let the tail up. once there you can wait for as long as the runway is to ease it off the ground.
Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 12/09/2019 08:46:14
|Thread: Propeller problems perhaps?|
I would say 13x4 is a bit small. I would use 13x5 and not worry. I know ASP52's run well on that and in my experience they perform much like an os48.
|Thread: IC or Electric for Ripmax DeHavilland Tiger Moth|
Mine was happy on a 30. It would fly perfectly well at half throttle or less so while the 40 would probably be ok its not a requirement.
dont use a 52 though, way too big.
If you go for the 30fs then use the biggest prop you can but with a fine pitch. I think i used 11x5 but i cant remember as it was a while ago.
what is the span/weight? i had a perkins/green air 50 odd inch tiger moth some years ago and it flew really well on a 30 4 stroke. As there are not many 4 strokes that size any more you might have to electrocute it
|Thread: YT International anyone had recent experiance|
I have 3 airworthy YT warbirds and 3 more to build. My appraisal is as follows:
If you expect to shake the box and have model build itself think again. They need a great deal of tinkering to get things to fit right, fix small defects in manufacture and generally improve the whole deal.
As for availability i think they have stopped producing kits but some ESM (the brand of kit they sold) models are still available from bigplanes.nl
|Thread: OS 40 four stroke, inverted?...|
i would say that the tank in pat's example is in fact too high. I would set it up as cuban suggests and essentially have the top of the tank level with the spray bar. This prevents a change in head as fuel is used.
i agree with everyone else. Inverted should be no problem as long as the tank is in the right place. Make sure the tank isnt too high as the air bleed carb on the little OS will not tolerate a high tank
|Thread: Morris gas conversion experience|
I love their enthusiasm, and as it happens it sounds pretty good. Transition is slow/rich but not like the other video.
Its a hefty old unit bolted on the bottom though. Its like another whole cylinder!
A perfect example of the problems with these conversions. Flat out they can work, but low throttle is usually a mess. From the sound of the idle its only running on one cylinder and you can hear the other two come in as the throttle is opened up.
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