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Member postings for Jon - Laser Engines

Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: So Handy - Just Down The Road.......
10/10/2018 22:52:23

Im half tempted to call in sick tomorrow and head on up there. Only a 7 hour drive :D

Thread: New Seagull Kit
10/10/2018 16:54:33

All of our customers flying the ARTF version use the 100. Its not exactly streamline so the bigger engine will work a treat

10/10/2018 13:38:33

It seems Seagull are adding to their kit range with their 63 inch P47. Nice club model for 90 4 stroke. Several customers of mine are flying the ARTF version of this and report that its a great performer.

Cant work out how to link to the post directly, but its on their facebook page


Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 10/10/2018 13:38:51

Thread: Ebay sellers...
09/10/2018 08:29:55
Posted by David Davis on 09/10/2018 07:07:09:

Mine Doesn't Start.

Mostly Dead Sticks.

Metal Door Stop.

Any advance on that?

Many dead sticks?

Thread: BMFA Online Membership portal open for 2018 membership renewals
08/10/2018 15:07:04

I got an email but ignored it as spam. i was going to check out its validity later!

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 08/10/2018 15:26:24

Thread: How do I choose my servos?
07/10/2018 21:20:33
Posted by Andy C on 07/10/2018 21:00:58:

Also, anyone got any thoughts on the non branded servos?

i dont use non branded servos, and frankly i wouldnt use certain brands as i am not impressed with their performance. I guess you have to balance cost to risk. Given that the servos already mentioned are all available for under a tenner its really not worth 'cheaping' out

07/10/2018 21:18:11
Posted by Percy Verance on 07/10/2018 19:57:26:

Hi Andy

The Slow Poke won't require anything too demanding as far as servos go. I'd consider something like Futaba 3003's or 148's. HiTec HS 311's would also do nicely I'd have thought.....

totally agree.

Thread: Foamies for beginners?
06/10/2018 18:53:10

i dont like training with foamy models for the reasons discussed in the OP. When anything more than breaking wind gives them sufficient lift to land almost vertically they student just wont learn anything, at least not if they intend to progress to larger models.

I still maintain that a traditional 40 size trainer is the best option, and while i personally think that the same model with ic is better than electric, an electric tutor 40 or whatever is perfectly acceptable as the plane is more important at that point

Thread: My first laser!
06/10/2018 12:50:26

The engine is a 75 and dates from about 1986-88. The giveaway that its a 75 and not a 61 is the size of the head and the small flat on the front of the crankcase below the fin barrel.

The 61 was the same height as the 75 and used the same size crankcase. This would not fit under the dummy engine supplied with the model. The prototype from flair used our Laser 62 which was developed from the earlier 45 and 50, and then into the current 70. This engine is very short and would fit under the bonnet.

I regret that the 61, 62 and 75 were all discontinued by 1992 and no spares or servicing support is available so if any part is lost or broken i am unable to offer any assistance.

If the engine turns over and has compression i recommend the front housing is removed (4 screws on the front, use a 3/32 allen key) and bearings checked. If they are smooth fill the crankcase with oil and put it all back together. If not, change them first. Use a 13x6 prop, start it up and after a little warm up time give it a bit of a thrashing on the small prop. Once that is sorted, and assuming it works, fit a 15x6 and go fly. The model will be well overpowered anyway so even if its wheezing a bit you wont have any trouble.

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
06/10/2018 12:40:48
Posted by Robert Hay 4 on 06/10/2018 11:23:47:

Hi Jon,

I have an old Laser 180V twin which I intend to put into a DB SE5A. What prop size would be appropriate for this engine please? Funnily enough I see the latest topic concerns the modern 180, would the prop size be the same for the twin? Cheers. Rob

Percy is quite right about the 160 but it is short stroke and the 180 long stroke. As a resuly it will be happy with 18x8 or 20x6. For the se5 i would use a 20x6 and see how you get on. If you see anything around 7000rpm you will be fine. If it cant make that then give 19x6 a go.

Thread: Seagull Hurricane
05/10/2018 01:07:28

that gap in your 2nd photo looks ideal Tim. I think it will be fine.

When is the big day?

Thread: Disappearing Lasers
04/10/2018 19:06:47
End of the month I hope
Thread: Seagull Hurricane
04/10/2018 15:03:40

The 180 is pretty tolerant of heat so you might be ok. Just to cover bases though what you could do is fit a small block of wood to just hold the lower cowl off the wing slightly. If you fit the block in the middle you would only notice if you looked at it from under the belly so it would not spoil the looks. Even a 3mm gap will take quite a bit of air out with the venturi effect

Thread: Disappearing Lasers
04/10/2018 14:59:10
Posted by The Wright Stuff on 04/10/2018 14:48:14:
Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 04/10/2018 14:43:16:

Those went out real quick. thumbs up

Disappeared, you might say, as per the thread title!!!

They had been there a week. They lasted longer than the 70's and 100's.

I have more but they are in kit form at the moment. I am working on it

Thread: Laser 180 Petrol
04/10/2018 14:58:21
Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 04/10/2018 14:41:43:


I see four ready in the picture. When can I put my name for one?

They are pre production and already have homes. As discussed at length i need feedback from customers to mak sure i have it sorted. Once production engines are ready i will gladly take your order.

04/10/2018 14:02:40

Nigel, you have hit what i think will be the biggest issue. People will assume they know how it works and they will be wrong. As Ron mentions, its a new experience but its not exactly difficult.

Tim, not really. As the fuel metering is better with the petrol they are very much less likely to pop and crackle. Its my only real regret

Manish, same as always. When they are ready!

Thread: Disappearing Lasers
04/10/2018 13:59:23
Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 04/10/2018 13:39:33:

There are 3 x laser 80's in stock (saw few moments back)

Not any more

Thread: Seagull Hurricane
04/10/2018 13:58:46

really nice Tim. I like the neat cowl cut outs too.

My only question is where will the hot air escape the cowling?

Thread: Laser 180 Petrol
04/10/2018 11:39:25

To be fair to Ron i did stitch him up not having the choke ready when i sent the engine. He was just so keen!

The other thing that tripped him up was the needles are very sensitive and without the engine running its hard to judge their effect. In this instance the engine seemed lean, so glow engine autopilot kicked in and a half turn here and there is cranked on the needles. This is great, and i would have probably done the same if i didnt know the engine, but petrol engines are tuned in 1/16th's so a half turn takes it miles outside its operating range and then it wont work even if the pump had been clear of air.

The instructions note that the needles are very sensitive and recommend no more than 1/8 turn movements.

Ron knew this, but in the heat of the moment its really hard to 'forget' many years of modelling experience and remember that one line from the instruction sheet you skimmed through in the 30 seconds before excitement got the better of you and you ran off to play with your new toy.

I am not being critical, just trying to point out how easy it will be to get it wrong through nothing more than a split second of autopilot. This is why i am looking for as much feedback as possible so that we can make the instructions as comprehensive as we can. All i ask after that is that people read them and make reference to them instead if assuming they know what to do in the event of a problem.

Some may read this and think 'cor that engine sounds like a pain in the backside' but that is not the case. It just needs to be treated a certain way and once you understand that its essentially a flick and forget engine. I just want to warn people to forget everything they think they know, at least for the first few runs, and trust the advice they will have been given when buying the engine and what is written in the instructions.

04/10/2018 10:37:22
Posted by Nigel R on 04/10/2018 09:51:16:

"Air bubbles are the engines arch nemesis and clearing the fuel system of air before starting is very important."

Probably a daft question at this stage - is there an easy procedure for ensuring the fuel system is primed and free of air bubbles?

Even more daft question from idjit who hasn't read the whole thread - are you using any kind of bubble trap, or does the carb have a float chamber to take care of that kind of thing?

There are two separate bubble related issues to contend with.

1. Clearing the fuel system of air before starting the engine

2. Making sure the fuel supply does not allow air into the system once the engine is running.

Issue 2 is covered off by the choice of tank, assembly of the tank and clunk, and the choice of clunk. All of this is detailed in the instructions and there is an A4 size diagram showing how to do it. Essentially you want a larger tank than is needed for your intended flight duration and you put the felt clunk in the middle. This guarantee's the clunk is always immersed as plenty of fuel remains even at the end of the flight. You could try using header tanks and all the rest of it but that adds more complication so i just went with the simple option. I also have not tested that setup yet so dont want to recommend it.

Issue 1 is the one that caused Ron the most trouble as he did not have the intended choke on his engine when he first got it. With the choke now fitted and his priming technique perfected i believe its now full steam ahead.

Originally i never had a choke on the engine and purging the pump of bubbles was a problem so i fitted a primer bulb to draw the fuel through. This was ok but not perfect. Once i finally fitted the choke i found that the primer bulb was no longer required so dropped it. If you wanted, you could fit one but its another pair of T pieces and a bunch more connections that need to be checked for leaks. Again, there is a procedure in the instructions that detail how to get the engine going.

As with any new product there are going to be some issues but i suspect most will be down to user error. I dont mean that negatively, i just mean that the engine is different to what most people are used to. It will take a little while for people to understand how exactly to get the best out of the engine and once they do it will be a walk in the park as its really simple once you know how. Clearly through this early phase feedback from customers is vital so that we can update the instructions and minimise misunderstanding.

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