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Member postings for Jon - Laser Engines

Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Enya V Twins.
21/05/2020 21:10:32

stepping on toes?

Im a fan of enya engines myself and have...5? something like that. To me they are the best of the japanese brands for quality but are let down by the fact that their designs have not changed at all since the 1980's with most engines still using air bleed carbs and having utterly worthless exhausts. They also got really expensive.

In general though they run really well and are very similar to Laser in terms of their design. Stripping them down is all very familiar to me and even the cam profiles and timing are almost identical.

21/05/2020 20:45:18

Where are they for sale?! and there is more than one?

This could be detrimental to my bank balance

Anyway, i have had a play with a VT240 and its a different animal to the laser twins im used to. Our twins are very smooth, throttle cleanly and rev like crazy if you ask them to and all with a minimum of fuss. The Enya twin on the other hand wobbles and shakes and opening the throttle feels like you have woken some sort of beast as it splutters up to full power. The whole thing is quite theatrical and i love them.

Most of this is down to the old style air bleed carbs. They are pretty crude and it does limit the performance of the engine.

If you want to buy one there are some things to consider.

Its a 1980's engine. Even if its new, its an old engine. Valve springs might be suspect, it could be corroded..etc

Spares are not easy to get and not cheap

Its not 82db compliant. At least, not at 7m. 100m... perhaps, but not 7!

The sound is glorious.

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
21/05/2020 14:14:50

Set up correctly the south herts glow driver is the only one i would ever consider using as you can adjust it to not come on when its not needed due to its plug temperature sensing ability.

Essentially, i would tune the engine with the glow disabled via the tx, get the everything setup nicely and then turn on the glow. Adjust the dial so that even at idle the plugs are off, but just on the cusp of switching on. That way it wont actually be running on the glow but will have assistance if the plugs cool below a certain value.

If set this way it will have no impact on engine tuning and will provide power to start the engine or rescue it if the need arises.

Still dont really recommend it though as its just more stuff cluttering up the place cheeky

Also, lead isnt dumb, its super useful as it stops the model crashing due to a heavy backside wink

Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 21/05/2020 14:15:22

Thread: Oleo's on larger models
21/05/2020 09:49:37

dubro wheels are very heavy but that may not be a problem on a model this big. The tyres are also really fat so might not fit the trousers on the hawk. Radio active do some 5 inch wheels that are a bit narrower so they might be a better fit

Thread: What does Homer Simpson say?
21/05/2020 08:35:46

Most unfortunate DD but easily done in the heat of battle.

I have individual boxes that snap shut for all of my futaba and hitec arms to not only help me find the right one, but prevent me using the wrong one.

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
21/05/2020 08:31:51

What i suggest DD is you take the plugs out and play with some crocodile leads for a bit. Twiddle the dial, see if you can get a good glow. Try running the plugs in series and in parallel to see what you get.

Some power panels can spit out enough amps, others cannot. On my own engines i use a 2.4v 6600mah nimh pack made up of 4 subc cells (2 series 2 parallel) and i then wire the plugs in series with +ve power going into one plug and -ve coming out of the other with the crankcase completing the circuit.

If you do use the power panel and set the current for the twin, make sure you mark the position and reset it to a lower level before you fry all of your single plugs

Thread: Anyone with experience with ProBuild YS servicing?
20/05/2020 16:34:20
Posted by Martin Harris on 20/05/2020 15:01:03:

YS diaphragms seem to be listed for a couple of engines that I've looked at on the Pro Build website and not unreasonably priced - I wonder if your friend's was an unusual or older version? Hopefully ES's engine will be catered for...

Not sure to be honest. Could have been a discontinued version etc, i just got the sob story as he had to order the part from the us i think

20/05/2020 12:42:21

about 2 years ago a friend of mine wanted a regulator diaphragm for his 91 and was basically told to buy a new engine as they dont keep parts. At least that is the story i was told.

Thread: Oleo's on larger models
20/05/2020 08:57:08
Posted by Andy Joyce on 20/05/2020 08:13:16:

Good point Jon. Is there any real benefit from adding olo's then?

Oh absolutely.

The oleos take that hard shock out of touchdown/bumps as the energy is absorbed in the direction it is received. With a wire leg, it absorbs energy by moving back and this not only makes the leg longer due to geometry but also moves the wheels back. This can make the model skip and bounce before ending up on its nose.

I also had a problem with my ESM P39 that was solved by an oleo mod. The model had an oleo on its nose leg but it was a very short travel with a very stiff spring as it was basically a repurposed main leg. Due to the balance (or lack thereof) of the model on landing you could catch the noseleg on the ground before the main gear and this would bounce the nose way up in the air leading to a stall. My solution was to modify the leg to double the travel, and then fit a softer spring ahead of the stiff one. The weight of the model now just about half compresses the oleo at rest and now when i touch down i get no bounce. Admittedly, my landings are way better with it now, which helps, but it was a vast improvement and it allowed me the stick time i needed to work out how to land the beggar! I dread to think what a solid leg would have been like.

The only downside to oleos is that if you really plant it, or if you come in at a very steep angle they have no give at all and your retracts/mounting plates will depart on their own adventure.

With everything considered, i would always go for oleos and make the effort to land smoothly.

Cuban is quite right about wheels too and on the P39 i also subbed the nose wheel (hard rubber tyre and ali hub) for a softer foam one. This helped, and that is what lead me to mod the nose leg.

Thread: Personal Injuries.
19/05/2020 21:28:14
Posted by Tim Flyer on 19/05/2020 21:17:40:

Very sorry to hear that I’m sure as said above Cycling UK will help... I’m a member too. It’s so sad seeing the awful attitude of some motorists to cyclists.

i think it goes both ways Tim. Before i could drive i saw the bad motorists as i cycled along. Now i can drive i see the bad cyclists sailing through red lights, the nutcase motorbikes going way too fast, and the bad drivers thinking they are gods gift and everyone else is just in the way.

Ultimately everyone on the road should be considerate of everyone else but that is not always the case

John, given that the police are already involved can they not offer you some advice?

Thread: Oleo's on larger models
19/05/2020 19:50:33

I dont have any bounce issues with my oleo equipped models as they are all pretty porky and those two little springs have quite a bit of work to do if they want to rebound all that mass

Thread: Personal Injuries.
19/05/2020 19:47:36

The van driver is bang to rights for leaving the scene. Who is to say the person driving it when it came back was the actual driver.

Thread: Who Else Wants a 63" Lavochkin La7 kit?
19/05/2020 12:25:38
Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 19/05/2020 12:18:29:

The only down side is that everyone tells you how much they like your Yak !


Happens to mine all the time. Im tempted to get write 'Я не як, ты дурак!' on the fuselage.

Google translate seems a little rough with Russian, but it gets the point across and it might amuse any russian speaking spectators.

19/05/2020 08:31:23

My big La7 is in the 93 colours there and vis is not easy at a distance. With no markings on the top of the wings that matt grey/blue just melts away and i end up essentially flying a cowl and spinner as that is all i can see. The fin is invisible when you are banked over so its no help. Its not a paint job i actually like as every la7 under the sun seems to have it applied and i always want something different.

The green one is likely to show a little better than the grey i would expect, especially if you cheat a bit a slap some red stars on the top of the wing too.

An alternative again is to take a little artistic licence and look for La5 paint jobs as there is greater variety.

You can have one thats trying to eat everything

Or one painted with the leftovers of every tin in the hangar

Thread: Tank size for 120 4 stroke
18/05/2020 12:08:45

I used a 14oz on my 180 powered stampe. It was good for 15 minutes plus.

20oz on a 120? you will be up there all day! I have 22oz total capacity in my 300v equipped P39 and i barely use 2/3 over a 10 minute flight.

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
18/05/2020 09:12:04

I think the throttle servo is stuck cheeky

Thread: Tank size for 120 4 stroke
18/05/2020 09:09:44

I use a 12oz on my laser 155. timer set for 8mins 30 so 10 mins by the time i am back on the ground with probably 5 minutes reserve for aborted landing.

A friend has an os 120 in his kyosho 90 spit, seems very economical once we tuned up the slow run

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
18/05/2020 09:07:12

The cooling should be fine SW. That cowl lip will draw the air through nicely so i dont expect any problems.

Prop rotation? at our scale its a non issue. Full size sure, but we fly very much faster in real terms than full size and we are dissipating nowhere near as much heat.

Thread: Tank size for 120 4 stroke
17/05/2020 19:37:15

120 is a little excessive for that model. An 80 or 90 would be a better fit.

If you use the 120, 12oz would be plenty unless you are using shed loads of nitro

Thread: Saito FG40 Prop sizes
17/05/2020 08:27:43

generally saito's are not impressed by big props but 21x10 is pretty big for 40cc. You could try bigger but if it runs hot or sounds unhappy you might want to knock the ignition timing back a few degrees

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