By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Jon - Laser Engines

Here is a list of all the postings Jon - Laser Engines has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: ASP settings query
27/08/2018 11:03:15
Posted by Ronos on 27/08/2018 09:11:15:

Setting the high needle yesterday, was a little frustrated, while leaning it out, screwing in the needle about 1/8 at a time, at full throttle, the engine was very slow to respond to the change, became very erratic going to about 9300 revs from about 8400 revs, then back again. sort of got the high end set but not happy with it because of the inconsistent revs. Tried a new plug (F type,OS) still the same, and new fuel. I have ordered some Laser 5% to see if they run better, they recommend to 5% I am using optifuel 12% because been using it on my Escale Seafire SC120FS and that's fine. Any idea? new engines or am I being impatient.

ASP needles are not known for their accuracy and can leak air slightly when you twiddle them as they move in their housing. Try sliding some fuel tube over the joint between the needle and the carb, this might help.

Remember too that rpm will drop as the engine heats up so if you are spending a long time at full power trying to tune it then you will start chasing your tail. Don't tune with a tacho either as this will also lead to rpm chasing.

I have seen rpm chasing many times with customers as they tach the engine on its first run up to full power and see, for example, 8500rpm. They then tweak the needles, check revs again and find 8300-8400. This is normal and due to the engine heating up. They then spend the next few minutes at full power screwing the life out of the needles trying to get their 200rpm back. All the while the engine gets hotter and hotter, and slower and slower.

Tune them by ear, it should take no more than 10 seconds to find the optimum position. Then hold full power for 15-20 seconds and if there is no noticeable sag in the revs during that time then its ready to go.

Listen too for a sharp cracking noise. Its subtle, but if you hear it then you are knocking slightly and might need to go 1 or 2 clicks rich.

26/08/2018 16:19:15
Posted by Ronos on 26/08/2018 11:13:56:
Can I jump in and ask something, I have two ASP70FS for my mossie, both have went through the running in process via manufacture instructions and a extra tank for good measure. Setting the high needle, full throttle, leaning it out untill reaching highest rev, with a tacho, then dropping it down a couple of hundred rpm. After stopping the engine I wound the high end needle in to see how man turns it was from fully closed, just short of one turn. Is this OK, is every engine different, my SC120FS takes about two turns for fully closed?

I always tell my customers that the correct settings for the needles are the settings at which the engine runs correctly. There is no one size fits all X no of turns gets the job done answer to this question so if your engines are happy as you have them set then its all good.

Thread: Seagull Mosquito Laser build
24/08/2018 08:29:14
Posted by Chris Walby on 24/08/2018 06:29:19:

You will probably have finished yours before I get the engines in mine as I am still messing about with the cowls and beefing up the nacelle box.

And waiting for me to send him the engines im working on it, dont panic!

Thread: 7.4v Receiver pack/batteries/servos
22/08/2018 16:38:09
Posted by Gary Manuel on 22/08/2018 13:02:50:
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 21/08/2018 16:54:51:

What's confusing about avoiding the use of lead in a model to keep the weight down?

The less mass a model has, the less lift it will need to fly, which means it can get sufficient lift at a lower speed. i.e. lighter models fly better.

If possible, I always adjust the CoG of a model by choosing / using the most appropriate equipment / positioning. I don't think I own a single model with added lead. I dare say I might need to add lead if I flew scale models but I'd always try to use "useful weight" (larger engine maybe) before adding lead.

up, cant disagree with anything you say...but, if you have an engine that is of adequate power for the model, and is X weight + Y lead to balance, and swap it for an engine that is equal in weight to X+Y the model remains the same weight and yet the engine is likely to have cost you more adding to the overall cost of the model. Its also likely to use more fuel so you need a bigger tank which makes it heavier if anything. The added power is of no use to you as you had enough before. It may also be louder which could upset the man with the noise meter. As an example, this would be like taking a 63 inch spitfire and swapping its perfectly adequate 90fs for a 120fs. In this instance the 120 is likely to make the model more difficult to fly due to its higher static thrust (for landing) and torque swing on takeoff.

I agree that all efforts should be made to minimise ballast by shoving the equipment around and making things lighter down the back end but their comes a point where you just need to add the lead. My Sea Fury is a case in point. 60cc engine in the nose with a heavy ali spinner, as well as two sub-c batteries as far forward as they can go. This was not enough so there is 1.5lbs of lead on board just under the engine. I couldnt have done any better.

Thread: 4 Strokes - fuel tank position
22/08/2018 10:04:50
Posted by SR 71 on 22/08/2018 10:00:46:

I have the TN Lancaster with four ASP52 fs in it, never flown as I cannot get all the engines to run on low or tick over throttle, tanks are on the centre line of the carb, I've been advised to fit on board glows to come on at low throttle setting,baby advise welcomed as I've had it five years now, and it needs to fly,

Thanks Tony



If you have to resort to OB glow something is wrong. ASP engines are not the best (obviously cheeky ) but they should idle fine.

My guess is its a slow run tuning issue as most ASP's come slobbering rich on the slow run.

To cover the bases what props, plugs and fuel are you using?


Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 22/08/2018 10:05:48

22/08/2018 09:49:12
Posted by Ronos on 22/08/2018 08:32:48:

Thanks Jon, I had a idea it would. Out with the Dremmel.


From what Chris tells me the nacelle boxes fall apart very easily so it should not be an issue. I recommended to him that he add another 1/16th ply laminate on the inside of the box to beef it up a little as they are a little wimpy. For electric or 2 stroke they are probably ok, but a big 4 stroke has so much more grunt and it may cause issues down the line. Its much easier to beef them up now before its all oily!

I would mount the tank with the outlet at the level of the old tank bay floor. From the photo that looks about right

22/08/2018 08:28:46

Yup, that will cause issues. I recommend you cut through the bottom of the tank box and lower the tank. You can then build back the structure with another plate above the tank. Should be a pretty simple mod and well worth the effort. you need maximum reliability for a twin so there is no point in messing about.

Thread: 7.4v Receiver pack/batteries/servos
21/08/2018 16:54:51

cant beat a good smirk. And its not just you, the whole argument confuses me, and as you say you an dig a much bigger hole with lead.

Anyway if you use mini servos, digital or otherwise, i suspect they will be quite happy on a 1200 4.8v pack. If you use spektrum then 6v is a better bet

21/08/2018 13:42:43
Posted by Flyer on 21/08/2018 11:09:44:
So would hoping this would be 'useful' weight rather than ballast. If that makes sense.

This always makes me smirk. Lead, or any type of ballast is useful weight. It keeps the thing in balance!

Perhaps dual purpose weight would be a better description

In any event, would a nimh be lighter? also which servos are you powering? I use 6v nimh to drive 10 digital jobs in a warbird, 3d would probably be different

Thread: Austerity BF109G
21/08/2018 11:08:49

Looks good to me, makes me want to engage it in 'combat'. I have a 5th scale La7 or P39 to choose from

Thread: 7.4v Receiver pack/batteries/servos
21/08/2018 11:06:15

The model you describe seems pretty simple to the casual observer and i cant see any advantage in going the lipo route. Is there a reason for ditching the 4.8v nimh?

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
20/08/2018 13:28:33
Posted by bert baker on 20/08/2018 09:40:16:

Is a 20-10 wood prop on a 180 glow in a quarter scale pup over doing it

yea, 20x6 would be better. Its what i have on the stampe

Thread: Finding records of WWII service men.
17/08/2018 21:51:56

Kew is dead easy for me to get too so that's another one on the list for sure

17/08/2018 08:53:48

Thanks Kevin, another option to try out

16/08/2018 23:15:48

Thanks guys

Mike, we tried that option but unfortunately there is no description of what he did. We know he got it, we just aren't sure why

John, thanks for the tip. I tried the site but they want to mug me 50 quid to view the records. Seems a bit much when they promised a free account!

16/08/2018 22:29:22

My brother has asked me to help him and his girlfriend track down details of her grandfathers service life.

We know he flew RAF B24's in the Burma campaign of WWII and know he earned either a DSO or DFC (perhaps both). We were trying to find out the circumstances of the awards and more about his service life in general.

If anyone has any ideas where we can find this sort of information we would be most appreciative. We will be talking to the RAF museum but if there are other avenues to explore then it would be interesting to know.

Thread: Laser 180 Petrol
14/08/2018 21:41:35

Thanks for the update Ron.

The only part that really surprises me is the noise issue. I had not found the engine to be nosier but the note is different for sure. At high power there is a sharper crackle but at part throttle I find the note much softer. Clearly airframe and so on makes a difference here.

I tend to electric start my engines as, frankly, its just quicker. I do usually hand start the stampe as its set up perfectly now and its not an issue, but everything else I leccy start as they are usually buried in cowls anyway.

With the tuning side, it is more or less impossible to set the tuning 100% on the ground. Its really a case of flying it and seeing how it performs, then making a small adjustment. You can get it close on the ground, but its never going to be perfect. The main needle is very sensitive and I find that actually makes the engine easier to set up as its either right or wrong with little grey area to get lost in. That said, I have never tried the 4000rpm approach as i always tuned in the air so this could be an easier method for ground tuning. If others have the same trouble I will recommend they try it and see what happens. Its tidbits like this that are really helpful to me as I can revise the instructions.

I will also send you another regulator Ron as I have been experimenting further with the spring pressure. Give that one a try and let me know if its better/worse/indifferent. You can also use it as a no return valve in the feed line if you like but I have not found I have needed it on any of my test engines so far so I would use that as a last resort. I will try and get you a proper choke plate as well so you can give it a priming spin with the starter.

Thread: CameronWood654@gmail
14/08/2018 09:40:33

i was contacted about an expired ad on bmfa some time ago. i just ignored the email

Thread: Laser 180 Petrol
14/08/2018 08:41:24
Posted by Piers Bowlan on 14/08/2018 06:44:20:

Jon, have you done any testing regarding the GA30 noise levels when turning the 17X8 wood prop? I just wondered if it was any noisier, or no different to, the Laser 180 glow?

I have not tested anything. There are too many variables for me to get any useful information on noise and we also lack the required equipment.

In flight though the 155 in my pulse and 180 in my stampe are certainly no louder than their glow counterparts. I would say that off throttle the petrols are quieter than the glow used to be, while flat out they have a little more crackle in the exhaust note but its still not loud. When flying as wings and wheels the engines were barely audible over background noise.

13/08/2018 19:15:11
Posted by Ron Gray on 13/08/2018 18:16:17:

Ah, didn’t think of that. Maybe I should get some Aspen first to see what, if any, difference it makes, mind you, I don’t mind the smell of petrol, actually quite like it!🤪

just use your normal choice of fuel. no need to get crazy

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Support Our Partners
electricwingman 2017
Expo Tools 14 July
Airtek Hobbies
Gliders Distribution
Motion RC
Wings & Wheels 2018
Advertise With Us
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Which part of building a new traditional balsa aeroplane do you enjoy the most?
Q: Which part of building a new traditional balsa aeroplane do you enjoy the most?

 Research & choosing the model
 Building the fuselage
 Installing the engine and radio systems
 Building the flying surfaces
 All of it!
 None of it. I'd rather someone else did it!

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us