Here is a list of all the postings David Oxilia has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mama Mia!|
For those interested in this model, you may find the following two links of interest:
K&B 100 Aero:
K&B 100 Aero Review:
However..., I just noticed they are sold out. Too bad.
great to see the fast "all at once" progress on your MM!
When your thread caught my attention some months back, I wanted to post my "interpretation" of the model as I also found that it was rather portly at 11 lbs and could easily shed 2 of them. In doing so, after sketching my ideas down on paper, I naturally gravitated to the plans and started to redraw the model shedding weight all around. I also found it way too wide so it became sleeker as well. Gone were the big blocks throughout on the fuse in favor of additional shaped formers and a 3/32" skinned top deck section. I also went with plugin wings as I couldn't see a model with a wing this large taking up space in my shop when being stored. You're a braver man than I am.
If I can figure out how to post pictures here again, I'll post the drawings so you can take a look. A little late I suppose as they might have given you some additional ideas for your own build.
The Webra 91 should make for a nice power plant. I originally set out with a Picco 80 RE in mind that I also picked up for a song but like some ST RE engines, sorting out the header (manifold for you lads across the pond) was a bit of a challenge due to the built in stub exhaust that these Italian engines have. It wasn't too hard to locate a vintage Rossi 90 RE though so that's what I will likely use when I get her cut and built. Current NovaRossi (Cesare Rossi's new company after separating in business from his brother who renamed the old company AXE Rossi) headers fit the vintage engines very well. Another very interesting option is the K&B 100 RE which is currently still in production. Maybe Father Xmas will bring me one this year as I was able to source some headers for it before Macs (our American header and pipe manufacturer) unfortunately closed its doors.
I look forward to your ongoing fast progress.
P.S. I think I figured out the system for posting pictures. I renamed my version of the model "Mamma Mia!" using correct Italian spelling. Some nuanced differences to the design other than a rather different construction is the blended airfoiled vertical fin which transitions up from the fuse into the fin. Much like the Aurora does.
Edited By David Oxilia on 22/11/2017 18:02:42
Edited By David Oxilia on 22/11/2017 18:04:53
Edited By David Oxilia on 22/11/2017 18:05:10
|Thread: Tiger Tail|
Nice work Andrew!
|Thread: Mystic 40/60FS|
good to see your progress on the Mystic. I have been swamped with design projects as well as work but do intend on finishing up that Arrow 40 in the not too distant future.
One thing I thought might be worth mentioning is that the retracts on the 25 & 30 size OK Model versions are setup such that the retract body is closer to the spars where the foil is a little flatter and there is more space for the body. This is probably more important on the smaller models due to the proportionately smaller airfoil thickness but it does provide a little additional strength. The caveat with doing this however is that it puts the strut over the spars where the wheel can't retract. In order to take care of this problem, the struts are bent forward so that the wheel retracts in the rib bay forward of the spars.
It worked out well on the pair of Mystic 30's I built so I kept it on my Supra Fly 25 re-design as well. Otherwise, the wing was re-designed more along the lines of how the 60 size wings were designed and built by Hanno.
Looking forward to seeing it come together!
Edited By David Oxilia on 04/05/2016 00:13:40
This is looking great! Nice work.
I will be interested in a short kit when ready. At this rate you may well beat me to the Arrow kit! I need to focus on that and get it finished. In any case it looks like you're going to have some nice classics to fly this year.
One of the aspects you might want to consider is a built up stab in the style of the wing design. 1/16" sheeted airfoiled ribs. About the same weight as a sanded 3/8" balsa frame but the laser cut ribs remove the need to introduce airfoil sanding in the 3/8" wood. Generally more reproducible and consistent from build to build.
I've done my stabs like this for a while and lately have added rib spacing built in jigs made of 3/32" balsa. Basically a 3/8" wide strip that is 3/16" notched (by the laser) for the ribs. These are inserted on the LE and TE centrelines. It works particularly well on symmetric non dihedral sections like stabs as the rib/jig intersection is square and level. They also act as a jig of sorts to keep everything symmetric but one can also introduce a couple of 1/8" CF rod holes (front and back) to jig up the ribs on their centerlines during the build. Once skinned, the rods can be pulled much like how a 1/4" rod jig is used for wings. If desired a half span spar top and bottom of 1/8 square balsa to tie the ribs together at the max foil thickness. Just an idea to chew on.
The fuse looks very nice. I would stick to the 1/8" ply doubler to key in the formers but no need for birch ply - light ply is plenty strong and less than half the weight. 1/32" birch ply is equivalent but too thin for keying properly.
Edited By David Oxilia on 19/02/2016 15:55:09
Edited By David Oxilia on 19/02/2016 15:56:20
|Thread: Aurora 60|
Great news on the engines! If you ever come across another Irvine 40 RE, preferably new, please let me know as I've been looking for one for a while. Being in the UK, it might be easier for you since they are English engines. Likewise on the OPS 40/45 RE. The ST X40 might actually also be well suited to the A40 since it is a fairly compact model given its squarish aspect ratio design. The pipe tunnel allows for a 15" concealed pipe so a 45 size engine with an 11" prop might require a slightly longer pipe arrangement which could potentially protrude from the tunnel. A solution would be to run something like a 10x7 on a 45 to shorten the pipe. Nothing terrible but I also feel that the A40 will fly well with a strong piped 40 on a 10x6 such as the X40.
On the other hand, the original EZ Mystic 45/90 ARTF (M45) was a rather large model almost the same in size (although not in weight) as a Curare 60. I acquired a kit from which I developed CAD plans after taking detailed and extensive measurements. I am not a big fan of the extensive use of plastic in the EZ ARTF's so my redesign is an all wood fuse design except for the cowling which I expect to make out of FG - both much like Steve Dunning's Supra Fly redesigns. Also, unlike the EZ, my design has a removable top canopy deck and a fixed fuse bottom tunnel for the tuned pipe (engine is inverted). Access to all components is through the top and the wings are plugin and incidence adjustable (if desired). Having a full fuse opening makes for a nice equipment layout including the option to centralize the tank (just forward of the wing tube) for pumped engines (YS, OS). If you are interested in seeing how I went about things, I'll be happy to send you an email.
I expect to make a kit out of this one as well as it is an extremely rare model for which plans never actually existed other than in Hanno's hands (maybe). Given its size, I would recommend running nothing less than a pumped piped YS 45FR/OS 46VF or a 4-stroke 82/90 or e-power (1400W). I suppose a 10 cc gas/glow engine might also be an option (e.g., OS GGT10). Naturally, a SE engine such as an OS 55AX mounted with cylinder at 8 o'clock preserving the central line pipe would also work well in this case exposing the cylinder from the cowling.
Edited By David Oxilia on 29/10/2015 18:57:55
Edited By David Oxilia on 29/10/2015 18:59:36
Edited By David Oxilia on 29/10/2015 19:00:26
Edited By David Oxilia on 29/10/2015 19:02:10
For what it's worth, I thought you'd like to know that the Aurora depicted in the first image of your thread was scratch built by and belongs to Jeff LeBoutillier based out of Ottawa, Canada. He did a build thread on RCU which is worth reading (maybe you already have).
I have seen that model in person and it is absolutely beautiful. The flying surfaces are especially light and as you can see the model was built with plug in wings. Ailerons and elevators are slightly larger than plans but not in a way that could be easily recognized. After his build, he determined that the fuse should have been built in a lighter fashion more suitable to e-power. The thick 1/2" fuse sides are especially not required with a full fuse frame like his particularly on e-power. They become more important with the full wing built glow model like yours.
As an aside, a friend and I made considerable progress on a 35 size version of the Aurora conforming to the reduced 60 size plans rather than the original 25 size MK plans. Wings were also to be plugin allowing more readily for "area adjusted" surfaces to keep the wing loading in check. The goal was to design an inverted glow engine compact model with fuse integrated pipe unlike the MK Aurora 25 model which has an external pipe. It also was conceived for optional e-power. We worked on it extensively but the CAD aspect was in my friends hands and he was unable to complete the design. The model was also re-designed with a stressed skin configuration rather than the balsa block approach of the original. It was quite a beautiful little classic so perhaps one day I will finish it.
Keep up the good work!
PS I have made good progress on the A40 and will drop you an email with further info when the design is complete.
You probably know this already but Don at rcaiir.com can set you up with both the belly pan and the canopy. Shipping will probably run you about the same as the parts - perhaps a tad less.
I'll reply re the Arrow tomorrow as I'm out all dat today.
|Thread: OS40VF FIRE|
in the event that Martyn is not interested in your kit, I may well be. Please drop me a line via PM when you have a chance with some further info.
PS I have not used PM on the UK forum before but I imagine it is similar to other forum sites.
With Martyn's encouragement, I have decided to forge ahead and complete my CAD re-design of the MK ARROW 40. The design is essentially complete but it has not yet been laser cut something which will be done in the coming weeks. Typically I cut a prototype and then I see what, if anything, can be improved or corrected after which I have a number of kits cut from the revised version.
I will be shipping Martyn one of the first kits but wanted to let my follow classic aficionados in the UK (I'm based out of Canada) that Arrow 40 kits will be available in the not too distant future. The model will be an all wood frame-up per the original MK kit but has some refinements making it a little easier to build as well as a tad lighter. Per the original, a glass fibre deck is also available to complete the model and if you were to build one with a tuned pipe, its the suggested way to go. I should point out that while a RE engine is ideal, this design doesn't require one. The pipe deck and right thrust that is built into the design/model allows a SE engine to also be used with a close fitting header passing into the deck. This opens up the options for engine choice significantly. Naturally, a muffled engine can also be used if this is your preference.
The Arrow 40 with a piped RE engine like the OS 40/46 VF or YS 45 FS/FR makes a fantastic classic combination but another impressive match would be an engine such as the current OS 55 AX!
If anyone is interested in a kit, please feel free to drop me a line via PM either here or via my RCU/RCG handle (doxilia).
E-mail replied Martyn.
Just wanted to drop a quick line to let you know that I replied to your email regarding the Arrow 40. Please let me know if you didn't receive it.
There are a couple of references in your posts to Matt's Atlas 40 but I believe you are referring to his Arrow per the picture you posted. I'm sure others understood this too.
I look forward to hearing from you.
PS Nice Aurora build!
Edited By David Oxilia on 22/09/2015 16:20:12
|Thread: Wolfgang Matts Arrow|
Finally, Sam says thanks for the kind comments. To him, this hobby is all about building models so that you can enjoy the experience of savoring your creation fly. The poor ARTF brigade don't know what they're missing in creating something what is basically a drawing on a sheet of paper...... More building less assembling please
I fully stand by these comments as well!
Absolutely! Couldn't agree more.
Hats off for a job well done Sam and congratulations on your new fantastic flying machine!
(from across the Northern pond)
How's the paint work coming along? Looking forward to seeing her in her colours!
|Thread: The not sure what it is classic aerobat build blog|
Very nice job you did here!
I like the nose details to blend the model into the nose cone (we call them spinners on this side of the pond). Did you route the 4-stroke exhaust through the pipe tunnel?
Looking forward to seeing her in some nice colours!
That Jetta must be a Curare/Tiporare knock off. Maybe a European glass/foam version from the 80's? It has very very similar lines to Hanno's well known model much like the Tiporare does (which is indeed a simplified redesign of the Curare)
|Thread: Wolfgang Matts Arrow|
Tettra and MK tanks are great. Good to see you found something that fits.
You should also take a look at the Hayes Slimline tanks carried by Tower (and others). They are specifically designed for the type of installation needed in classics such as the Arrow where there is a nose gear below the tank. They are also very resilient where pumped engines are used - they won't split (I duct tape them anyway). They make up for the shallowness with width and length but it is rare that they interfere with the wing.
They don't make a 14 oz slim but they have a 12 and a 16. Here is a link:
Nice to see you get to the final stages of the build.
|Thread: The not sure what it is classic aerobat build blog|
The design also has some Don Lowe Phoenix 9 or 10 overtones. But seeing it was likely built in the UK, it might be an English design rather than an American one.
The front top of the cowl looks like it could use a little diet, particularly with the 4-stroke which doesn't require much space under hood in that area. A flared spinner line would improve the looks considerably. Couldn't help commenting on it.
|Thread: Wolfgang Matts Arrow|
fantastic work as always!
If I may weigh in with my personal biases... given the amount of work and effort you are putting into this classic build, I'd suggest going with the flaps. I built some in to a later simpler Prettner model that didn't call for them originally, the Calypso, but am happy with having built them in. They do help in bleeding off speed on landing and give you the extra amount of lift to really slow the model down. Plus, you can do some cool things with them aerobatically.
Servo wise what I used was one center mounted servo for the flaps on two "traditionally aileron" torque rods into the flaps. The pushrod is simply a forked assembly going to the servo and each torque arm. You can also install the servo on its side for absolute linear deflection on the surfaces to insure they are both moving the exact amount otherwise you end up with roll effects. Two identical "half-H" bend pushrods can also be used wire wrapped and CA'd or JB Welded at the pushrod end leaving one of the wires longer than the other for a ball link (or Z-bend) connection.
For the ailerons, well, nowadays there is little to it simply using one servo per aileron. The question is whether to mount them in boxes vertically or on ply plates horizontally with a recess in the wing to accommodate the servo. The former is easier (I build mine out of 3/32" or 1/8" balsa but 1/8" poplar can also be used) and results in rotary movement of the servo arm (which is fine). The latter also allows you to exit a servo arm out of the ply plate for linear movement and is a little cleaner under wing at the expense of a little more weight and build time. Again, personally, I go with straight-up pockets for the ailerons and a center wing opening for a side mounted flap servo on a 1/8" light ply tray and hardwood arms for the servo mount flanges. One can build the pockets outside of the wing (4 sides and a floor to separate the walls) and produce the hole on the inner wall for the lead and use a pair of 1/4" x 3/8" HW braces at each end for the mounting. A simple X-acto blade can be used to make the wing cutouts using the box as a template. I like to use Estes rocket tubes in the core for the lead tunnels but paper or simply foam (of it is cut clean) suffices.
She's not far from the finish stage!
Nice work Sam!
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!