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Member postings for Dickw

Here is a list of all the postings Dickw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread
17/02/2020 20:50:38
Posted by Nigel Heather on 17/02/2020 20:47:37:........

So does that mean when my email comes through from the CAA does that mean I will get an Operator ID and a Flyer ID?


You will get an Operator ID but not a Flyer ID.

If you have the BMFA RCC you are exempt from needing a Flyer ID.


Thread: CAA ID number discussion
17/02/2020 20:16:21
Posted by Denis Watkins on 17/02/2020 20:08:57:

Flying drones or model aircraft

Always check that anyone who flies your drone or model aircraft has a valid flyer ID.


Or a recognised competency from an association of which they are a current member.


17/02/2020 19:43:50

If you have a BMFA achievement (or similar from another organisation) you are exempt from needing a Flyer ID.

You can find all the information you need here.


Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread
17/02/2020 14:34:38

I think it is just a new exemption for those who join / rejoin the BMFA (etc.) after 1st Feb and therefore missed the bulk data transfer. I think there will be another bulk data transfer before June.


Edited By Dickw on 17/02/2020 14:36:32

Thread: CAA ID number discussion
17/02/2020 14:06:53

Operator ID arrived from CAA via email a few minutes ago.


Thread: Lost radio contact - Spectrum DXe + Spektrum AR410
16/02/2020 12:42:35
Posted by Steve J on 16/02/2020 11:52:19:
Posted by Sussex Pete on 15/02/2020 12:23:24:

Perhaps my BMFA registration number GBR197508

I don't see the merit in putting a BMFA number on a model especially as you have prefixed it with GBR and not BMFA. I put a mobile phone number on my gliders.

If you fly in some international competitions you have to put your FAI Licence number on the model. In the UK, your FAI Licence number is your BMFA number preceded by GBR.

I have it like that on several of my models for that reason, but have no idea if that is the case in this instance.


Thread: My idiots guide to 2.4 ghz radio - finally bit the bullet and upgraded!
16/02/2020 10:31:40
Posted by Bonzo Moon on 16/02/2020 00:44:41:

Question 2. How do you do a good range check with 2.4 ghz? With 35 mhz I would just not extend the tx antenna, you don't have that option with 2.4?

Most 2.4 GHz transmitters have a "Range Test mode" that reduces the power output for a range check. It should be somewhere in the transmitters menu system. The manual should tell you what range to expect in range test mode.


Thread: Article on building a LiPo warmer box
07/02/2020 12:53:10

I made my own warming box using carbon tow as the heating element and a digital thermal switch off ebay

I don't have a photo of the box, but the attached pic of a heated cradle for holding my electric glider fuselage while waiting to fly should give you an idea of what I did with the box.


fuselage heater.jpg

Thread: Dereck Woodward Bigga Bit
07/02/2020 10:15:33
Posted by Nigel R on 07/02/2020 08:39:04:................

Regarding the motor and the failure I experience, it strikes me that two tiny grub screws aren't very much to restrain all the torque on that 4mm motor shaft. These cheap motors are ok, but that particular design point doesn't impress me. It is also not the first time that type of failure has happened to me, and I'm sure I'm not alone.

Having used grub screw type prop drivers for 18" props on a 6mm shaft at about 5kW I know they can be a problem, but there are a number of techniques we used to overcome the issues.

1/ Make sure the shaft and the hole it fits in have been cleaned/degreased.

2/ Use the correct type of grub screw - flat or point ends for a shaft with a flat on it, or a hollow end (inverted cone) for a round shaft.

3/ Use only one grub screw not two - it pushes the shaft hard against the hole wall instead of leaving the contact area as two small points.

4/ Use thread lock to stop the grub screws coming lose.

We used all of those for 5kW, but any of them should improve matters at lower powers.


06/02/2020 18:59:01

I am delighted to hear of a successful maiden flight, and it certainly looks great as well. I am sure you will be enjoying it even more as you get used to it.



Thread: Peel Ply Issues
03/02/2020 09:40:47
Posted by Jason Channing on 03/02/2020 04:51:03:
One of their couriers is DPD and the cost is around 15 Euros which spread over a larger order is not too bad.

I don't want to make it sound as if companies like Easy Composites are not good it is just that R and G are so good and the choice is so varied.

Thanks Jason

Those costs are reasonable, so it looks like they sorted out the "expensive specialist courier" issue and I think I will give them another try for epoxy.

I have had other stuff from them more recently, just not the epoxy, as their range of specialist tools, equipment, and materials is huge.


Thread: 6 Turning 4 Burning
02/02/2020 23:03:29

Is it worth trying to paint a thin coat of 'resin only' on to the MDF to see if it will react with the soaked in hardener and form a thin crust you can work on top of?

I know it's a desperate measure, but if all else fails what have you to lose.


Thread: New BMFA portal
02/02/2020 16:17:46

My existing achievements are all shown below the "add achievements box". You can downloasd your BMFA document from the portal as well, and that will have your achievements on it. see the "Print member document" button on the first page of your basic details.

If yours are not there try adding them - as Franks said they will be verified before being added.

Dickexisting achievements.jpg

02/02/2020 15:27:01

Not sure what you mean FB3.

The membership system has been running for over a year now and I have not seen any bugs in the "Achievement" area. When I log in it takes me to my basic details, ansd on that page is a series of buttons, one of which takes me to a list of my "Achievements" including the new RCC.

I can download any of these achievements and print them myself.

What are you seeing?

Dickachievements button.jpg

Thread: Dereck Woodward Bigga Bit
02/02/2020 10:08:39

Still following the story and looking forward to hearing about the maiden flight.

The build and the finish look great Nigel.


Thread: Peel Ply Issues
02/02/2020 10:04:12
Posted by Jason Channing on 02/02/2020 07:52:32:

I do a fair amount of composite work and came to the conclusion very quickly that the choice of quality composite material and resins in the UK is very poor and now use R and G in Germany who can supply quickly and efficiently.


Hi Jason

What are the postage costs for epoxy from Germany like these days?

I ask because I used to buy all my composite stuff from R&G as they have the biggest selection and the best information and service I know of but a few years ago, when I made my last epoxy order from them, a young lady phoned me from Germany to warn me that epoxy had been declared a hazard and they had to use a specialist courier to deliver it. Apparently my 20 euro pack of epoxy/hardener was going to cost me 40 euro postage, so did I want to go ahead? (I don't remember the exact figures but something like that)

She took the epoxy off my order and sent the rest, and I have bought epoxy in the UK ever since.

If postage has changed I would go back to R&G because they are a great resource and a good comapny to deal with.


Thread: Have I enough power?
31/01/2020 10:15:22
Posted by Ronos on 31/01/2020 09:38:34:

So guys, I am looking at(roughly) something around the 60A mark and (roughly) something around the 1400Watts mark, and lets say starting off with a 15x8 prop, with a 6s.

Yes, that woud be good, but not with your present motor - the kv is too high for that.

If you use your present motor on 6s the 14x7 would probably be OK, but I would start experimenting with a 13x6 to be on the safe side.

I have attached a data log from a 5055 motor on 6s with a 17x8 prop, but that was only a 400kV motor and it is still pulling near 60 amps.


v-w-n 3 minutes into flight.jpg

Edited By Dickw on 31/01/2020 10:15:53

Thread: Peel Ply Issues
30/01/2020 12:24:22
Posted by Alan Gorham_ on 30/01/2020 11:16:01:


Bear in mind Tony's prototype was covered in film and I glassed and painted mine, I still ended up around 2oz lighter than his quoted AUW. I've never worried since and I certainly wouldn't bother with sanding sealer. Just seems a totally un-necessary step IMHO.....................

That's fine by me - I was just offering an alternative approach. We all have our own building methods.

Nice looking models.


30/01/2020 11:06:51
Posted by Alan Gorham_ on 30/01/2020 10:40:11:

Dick, the point of using Peel Ply is so that a second coat of epoxy is not needed in my experience!

Also, I'm struggling to understand why the need for sanding sealer? Surely you need the epoxy to soak into the wood to actually stick the glass cloth onto the wood?

Gary -- forgot to say: I use 25g/square m glass cloth again from East Coast. What cloth are you using?

Your use of peel ply is interesting so I might try that. I have previously only used it on the insides of moulded fuselages etc. between the glass/epoxy and paper towels used to soak up excess epoxy under vacuum.

Re the sanding sealer - I am always trying to keep the weight down and the sanding sealer avoids excess epoxy soaking into the wood so saves both weight and epoxy. I have never found the adhesion of the glass to the wood a problem (epoxy is an adhesive after all), but then I don't try to get a gloss finish with the sanding sealer - just a light filler coat sanded back.


30/01/2020 10:19:49

I have never used peel ply for a "finish". I just lay the glass in place and gently brush/stipple the epoxy on - minimum needed to wet it out and make it stick. If it is a balsa surface I use sanding sealer to seal it before starting, to make a smooth surface to avoid snagging the cloth and to stop the epoxy soaking into the wood.

As Alan says - use a good quality laminating resin, and after it is set give it a light sanding followed by a high build primer rubbed back to fill the 'weave' of the glass. If weight is not a problem you could use a second thin coat of epoxy before the high build primer.

I have never used Zpoxy so can't comment on it, and I have glassed a lot of flat sheet tailplanes, fins, and other control suraces never seen any warping so don't understand that.


progress november - glassing.jpg

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