Here is a list of all the postings Dickw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Unisens-E Graupner telemetry sensor|
Both the SM lead and the Jeti lead mentioned in the instructions are USB to serial conversion leads - i.e. there are electronics in them. The others probably are as well, so you need more than a USB lead (modified or otherwise).
Where abouts are you based? There are several options for connecting leads in the instructions so you may be able to borrow one locally to do the update.
According to the UniSens-E instructions it should be possible to connect it to a PC using a variety of third party cables including the "Graupner USB interface no. 7168.6"
Section 11.1 of the instructions details options and how to.
Have you found the English instructions:- https://www.sm-modellbau.de/Bedienungsanleitungen
Edited By Dickw on 05/07/2017 13:37:06
|Thread: Balancing two lipos in series.|
Looking at these voltages suggests that the "goosed" battery is fully charged, and the other battery is nearly flat.
Your discharge capacity values seem to confirm this.
Looks like the problem might be in the charging - are the balance leads OK on both?
|Thread: Volunteer Pilots Required|
It sounds fun but I don't have a model with a buddy-box radio and I already have a prior engagement that day. However, this post will at least keep it at the top of the latest posts list.
hope the day goes well Brian.
|Thread: create a 9s|
Once you go over 6s finding an ESC can be a problem, but there are many available if you look hard enough. They are often labelled "HV" as well as giving the cell numbers.
Using 5s plus 4s to make a 9s pack is OK, and I have several such packs myself, but it is best to match the capacity and C rating of the packs to avoid problems.
|Thread: Use of ailerons for braking.|
With a heavy 2 servo 2m wing soarer I use ailerons up at about 45 degrees to act as spoilers for landing. Having both ailerons up reduces the chance of tip stall and allows a much slower, nose up, high drag approach. You will need to use some elevator compensation but if this can be added with a mixer then you can foget about that after a few experiments.
Experiment high up ( 2 mistakes high!) to start with so you can judge the elevator compensation required and to find out if you still have effective alieron control. If you can reduce, or reverse, aileron differential while the ailerons are up that will help with lateral control.
|Thread: Prop Size Selection|
Seems a reasonable approach at first glance, but once you get beyond a 9,9 x 9.9 the extra numbers could get a bit unwieldy.
Anyone for a 185220?
|Thread: What kv?|
There isn't really a simple way so it comes down to experience and or motor calculation software.
Your 2500kv motor will try to turn at 18,500 nominal on 2s but to get anywhere near 18,000 rpm on a 7x5 prop would need in excess of 200 watts, so at least 30 amps on 2s, once the plane had gained speed in flight. Static it would probably be closer to 40 amps.
Not sure if your 1818 is up to that.
Turning a prop faster requires more power so if you used a 4800 kv motor you would be well in excess of 100amps on 2s before your 7x5 prop got anywhere near 30,000 rpm. Some racing competition classes run props at 35,000 rpm but the props are specials designed for those rpms.
You need to pick a kv so that the motor can reach around 80% of the nominal rpm on your chosen prop and battery volts. If you want about 10 amps on a 7x5 and 2s then try something like a 1600 kv motor weighing about 20 to 25 gms.
|Thread: Prop Size Selection|
He does mean 4 inches and not 4 degrees.
A 6040 is a normal 6x4 etc.
Edited By Dickw on 24/05/2017 12:54:40
|Thread: ESC or Motor issue? Pulsing, stuttering?|
I used to use that motor in an RC combat model with an 80A Hyperion ESC. It would pull in excess of 60 amps static and around 40 to 50 amps in flight on a 3s Lipo and a 9x5 prop.
I think 4s and a 10x6 is pushing it a bit.
I think there was originally a different version of this motor available with a lower kV (1770), but the current spec is here and the cell numbers mostly refer to NimH cells.
Edited By Dickw on 22/05/2017 10:02:32
Edited By Dickw on 22/05/2017 10:03:46
|Thread: Operational Guide, All Models and Radio Control|
'Operational Guide, All Models and Radio Control'
As others have pointed out, this is in what is just a summary check list following up the main document, and these words are intended to refer to specific sections of the Members Handbook.
I don’t think it has caused any confusion in the past, but I agree it could be written better and now that it has been pointed out it probably will be updated.
I went to our BMFA Area meeting this week on behalf of my club and we were informed that a new Members Handbook will be issued very soon, so it may be prudent to wait and see if the section headings change before changing any references to them.
|Thread: Where is the heatsink?|
You don't say what ESC you are using, but I do have some ESCs where the flat label side is indeed a heatsink.
In your case it sounds like the ESC is rated OK for the power of the motor, but the BEC circuit is struggling to meet the power requirements of the servos. You could try a cooling airflow over the label area and see if that helps. Alternatively a separate BEC or an ESC with a higher rated BEC might be needed.
|Thread: Binding Spektrum RX's|
You can bind multiple Rx to the sme model memory and use at the same time, but the Rxs need to be the same types, i.e same protocol and data rates. I don't think the number of channels is an issue unless that affects the Rx "type" regarding the other factors
It is a common issue in the F5B comps I fly where 2 Rx are required - one in the air and one on the ground.
|Thread: How to connect a solenoid to a receiver?|
It should work when connected to the battery.
Red wire to battery positive and black to battery negative for a few seconds should make it move one way.
Black wire to battery positive and red wire to battery negative for a few seconds should make it move the other way.
If you leave it connected too long it could overheat and burn out.
Unfortunately this solenoid is designed for short pulse operation only. It seems to be 5W power on 6v supply, and if I read the data sheet correctly that limits it to a max pulse length of 1 minute.
It looks like Sam might need an ON/OFF momentary switch as well as polarity reversal.
This device seems to require a single pulse to move it to a locked position, and a reversed polarity pulse to move it back again. That is going to need more than a simple RC switch to operate. Any ideas anyone?
Gary beat me to it!
Edited By Dickw on 04/05/2017 12:15:14
The pos and neg terminals on the RX are permanently energised, so should power your solenoid. Does the solenoid work if you connect the red and black wires to a battery? If so, it shoukld also work on the pos and neg of the RX.
Thr RC Switch comes with a connection diagram - a copy here.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc|
opps, double post!
Edited By Dickw on 29/04/2017 18:19:48
I am very lucky because it was actually my wife who came up with the idea, researched it, arranged it, and paid for it as a present for a special birthday (not my 21st unfortunately!).
Many thanks everyone else for your good wishes and offers of support. I will post here again when I eventually get going. I don't anticipate any problems with the build, but the finish is a different matter and there are so many great photos in this thread I might be ashamed to show mine.
It is a long time since I attempted a scale model so this is almost a new venture for me, but I have just collected a Spitfire kit from Warbirds. The plan is to try and replicate MJ627 which was converted post war into a 2 seat trainer version and is now based at Biggin Hill.
I want to build it in the 2 seat version because that is me sitting in the back seat in the photo, taken when I had the great good fortune to have a flight last year.
Richard has already supplied me with some extra parts, a special set of decals, and lots of good advice, so failure in the attempt will be entirely down to me.
I am in no rush and will probably build it over the winter, so don't expect any immediate updates, but wish me luck.
Edited By Dickw on 28/04/2017 10:44:07
Edited By Dickw on 28/04/2017 10:44:35
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