Here is a list of all the postings Tim Flyer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Trial Flights - Promoting the Hobby|
Hi Simon . I’m our club Treasurer rather than tech guy so sorry if a bit vague with description. Our camera is solar powered and just needs a relatively cheap SIM card to operate. It is mounted on a long scaffold pole . I think the cost is about the same as a cheap mobile phone SIM package (about £10-15 per month) as the camera only takes still pictures every 5 minutes . It was kindly set up by one of our members who is an expert in these things. We also have a portacabin with a small boiler and hot water/ kitchen and I agree that is much more popular than flying in the winter 😊
Edited By Tim Flyer on 14/01/2020 15:07:05
We registered for trial flights but haven’t had requests yet. Most of our new members come from our website link or from friends of existing members .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 14/01/2020 09:06:28
|Thread: SLEC Chipmunk build blog|
Thank You too Rich . 👍
Agreed .. very important on ARTFS . I think it might have been balsa cabin but it was year before last . I always do loads of shopping there for “stock “ as sadly there are no local model shops near me in Hertfordshire. I bought a big tin of it . I wish I had bought more . It’s brilliant for repairs ands sticking film onto,
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 22:42:13
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 22:42:30
Cheers Ash yes that’s my West Systems Epoxy inside . I must admit as I had an early model boat background I like to build to “last” . I think it’s a big advantage interior coating with epoxy. Otherwise one fuel leak can cause permanent damage , plus the epoxy massively strengthens the wood .
That’s it hanging on the ceiling 😊. Thanks for the offer Ash. Hopefully it won’t take too long before our field is ok. While that happens I hope the polyurethane will become more fuel proof. I painted the oratex on the wings with JP brush on polyurethane “high grade fuel proofer”. Although it looks dark, when it’s brushed thin the browning effect is minimal. I sprayed the cowl with RC colours clear gloss which I think is polyurethane. As I only use 5% nitro I think it’s going to be ok! Of course I use my favourite epoxy for all interior fuel proofing and firewall etc 😉
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 21:36:36
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 22:12:14
I use gorilla glue to glue weights in as it expands nicely in voids and clings well to lead etc. It’s great too in engine compartments as being a polyurethane foam it’s also fuel proof. Yep I must admit I do use epoxy a fair bit but the weight added to this plane with it is quite minimal ( about 20g of interior fuel proofing) It has mainly been built with Titebond Aliphatic. Im using two 1600mah LIFEs and twin Futaba electronic heavy duty switches.
Thanks very much Ash . The 50g is glued internally in the very end of the fuselage ....so I’m not going to move it ( I use lead shot and gorilla glue) and I’m keeping the batteries in the central board as it’s neatest plus all done now . I had already thought of rearward batteries but didn’t fancy it as mine are fairly light plus I don’t like long leads and prefer a neat installation. I have used twin decent sized LIFE batteries and twin Futaba switches with internal mounts so I wasn’t worried about the weight. 14 lbs is a mere wisp for the Laser 180 😉 It does feel “light” to me I’m looking forward to flying it. 😊
Just a few extra details that might help others . My build ended up with quite a forward C of G as I was using a bigger than required engine (Laser 180 rather than a Laser 155 which is a much more natural choice on this model ). My total all up weight is just above 14lb so the 180 will not need much throttle! I added 50g of lead into the tail and centrally placed my RX batteries. I swapped out the metal spinner for an Irvine plastic white one to reduce nose weight ( that reduced 50g of weight on the nose). My C of G is now around 1cm or less in front of the wing spar which I hope should be ok on the maiden flight in a month or so. ( our field is still wet !). I also cut out the oleo fairings as per David’s advice to save wing damage when the U/C flexes backwards.
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 14:14:17
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 14:16:31
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot versus Wot4|
I have flown the Riot and Wot 4foam E and would certainly say the Wot 4 foam E is a far more lively plane . The Riot is more of a stable trainer type whereas the Wot4foam E can be thrown around more with its better power to weight ratio. My only real criticism of the Wot 4foam E is poor quality parts giving it a bit of a “budget” feel . The Wot 4 foam e copes Welkom with windy days and I would say a bit better than the riot.
|Thread: 2k aerosol laquers|
I would be very careful putting clearcoat on top of enamel. The chroma enamels are turpentine based and clearcote is cellulose based. If the enamel is very hard and the clearcoat thin and dries quickly you might be ok but be warned that it can bubble up if you put it on thick. On my Chipmunk I’m using polyurethane as fuel proofer on the outside. I used JP clear polyurethane fuel proofer brushed thin to prevent yellowing and som RC Colours clear gloss which seems a bit less yellow. I would have liked to have used Tuffkote or one of the two pack fuel proofer SS but I couldn’t risk it as I had also used acrylic pain in parts and the solvents in the Tuffkote would probably lift it .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 07/01/2020 21:34:18
|Thread: ESM Tigercat - powered by Laser engines|
The idea of proportion of outlet to inlet sizes is only a very rough guide. The most important factor is how both the inlet an outlet sit in the air stream . On my Chipmunk the inlet is smallish but at 90degrees to the airflow so will receive high pressure, and has been well baffled . The outlet was also at 90 degrees to airflow but needed a spoiler to create a reduction in pressure near the outlet ... that dramatically increases extraction flow . The area of inlet and outlet are quite similar. A small spoiler near the outlet guides air away from the exit and really helps .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 04/01/2020 10:04:34
Looks great Ron . I’m a keen “cowl baffler too” . It’s surprising how small intakes can be as long as airflow is properly directed and ejected. I actually put a small spoiler under my new Chipmunk’s cowl to help extraction.
|Thread: SLEC Chipmunk build blog|
Thank You very much for that David that’s very helpful. I must have spent quite a lot of my time on it this year too and and put quite a lot of other jobs aside to make way for it . Im afraid maiden flight has to wait until our strip dries out. It’s a complete bog at the moment. I didn’t even fly last time I visited our club last Sunday. One chap said he had added a kilo of mud to his model ...sounds a lot worse than icing up ! Happy New Year All!!
Trevor your Chipmunk looks superb. Thank You for your advice. That “BA” colour scheme is a great idea. It certainly seems that the oleos Should spring back . Hopefully they won’t do much damage as the inside of my fairings are soft gorilla glue and balsa. Cutting them at this stage to leave a gap will do a fair bit of damage as they are aluminium sheets . If they work loose on the maiden landing I will remove and modify them . I think what I should have done is to have simply built the fairings as hollow “aluminium shells” leaving the inside unfilled. I could then just glue the fairings to the wing from the base with acrylic sealant. That would allow maximum free oleo movement.
Edited By Tim Flyer on 31/12/2019 10:41:04
Edited By Tim Flyer on 31/12/2019 10:42:42
Edited By Tim Flyer on 31/12/2019 10:44:16
Edited By Tim Flyer on 31/12/2019 10:45:35
Hi David Thank You very much for your comments on that. I thought the oleos might spring back a bit/ or possibly even stretch forward on a flat hard landing. On the torsion bar set up I did partly fill the channel with epoxy . That might reduce spring back but obviously could result in a bend in a hard landing. I have just used gorilla glue inside the fairings so I’m hoping that a hard landing might just split the metal litho plate away from the wood I did use some p38 filler under the fairings after initially leaving a gap . I will probably leave any further modifications to the fairings until after maiden flight . Initially I had thought of leaving a gap and putting in flexible acrylic filler, but then thought my fairly lightweight gorilla foam glue inside the fairings might just be ok .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 30/12/2019 22:36:38
I have just made the Oleo fairings . Rather than all wood as in the kit version I chose to use thin aluminium “litho plate” which is easily available at Model shops and really quick and easy to use . I first made a card template then snipped out a copy from the aluminium sheet. I then bent the metal fairing round the Oleos to shape . Then I used epoxy filler (epoxy with chopped fibreglass sheet) to stick liteply spacers on the front and rear of each oleo. I then put the metal sheets on and clamped them to set . Once set I filled them with wood and gorilla glue which expands to fill any voids. Here is a pre painting picture. Ps..I’m not sure whether I will make the landing light now or later but it will be easy to add on .!
Cheers Chris. I’m pleased you like the colour scheme. It’s based on the one at RAF Museum Hendon . I quite liked that scheme too( my paint job is far from perfect though! I’m afraid that’s not my forte!) . I’m just in finishing stages now . I’m building the oleo fairings simply from thin aluminium plate bent round and epoxied to the oleo legs ( the oleos were first epoxied onto the 6mm wire undercarriage to prevent twisting). Last stage will be fuel proofing which I will try the RC colours polyurethane. I will post a picture up when it’s all done.
Edited By Tim Flyer on 27/12/2019 21:14:45
|Thread: TN Concorde|
Yes the PVA seems the easiest plus most economical option for this . I gave my Chipmunk fuselage a couple of coats of clearcoat and lightly sanded it and it worked well. I was looking for extra durability there as it’s an IC glow model. I did use the thinned PVA on the tail section and it worked very well . The clearcoat is cellulose I think so makes the surface quite hard . Must admit there was the occasional air bubble initially but I pop those with a fine pin while covering and they don’t seem to show. Anyway your build of this iconic plane looks fantastic!
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