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Member postings for Tim Flyer

Here is a list of all the postings Tim Flyer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Chris Foss Xtra Wot
08/07/2020 16:31:36

Very nice . A great model! The tail skid certainly makes a noise , but the recording volume was quite high I guess as the rain Could be heard ( or what sounded like rain). It certainly flies well and looks the part. 

Edited By Tim Flyer on 08/07/2020 16:35:41

Thread: Laser Engines development.
08/07/2020 09:24:18

Hi Jon . I also have a WWXL spare which could be used as a test bed for almost anything up to 40cc . What is also an ongoing concern is my DB Spitfire which I’m just starting to build. I’m going to put a build log up on it later. Regarding engine choice for it is an open book . The one thing I am keeping is a split wing, and would rather not go into major wing surgery on it in order to fit a low tank for the laser 180 . If you had reduction gear available I might be able to raise the engine a bit as mentioned or possibly use a petrol 180 . One thing I often wonder is why not make the 180 single bigger maybe 240 or 300 single as a petrol. I think there is masses of demand there too, plus it sounds a fairly simple project.

Thread: Aspen fuel
06/07/2020 22:07:08

Pump fuel can certainly cause problems as it ages . The long life factor is Aspen is particularly useful. Flaky varnish deposits like this in my photo below can happen when pump fuel is left in a carburettor float chamber for long periods. The varnish wrecks the fuel metering and can block the jets. I had to rebuild the carburettor to fix it. Fuel in a vented tanks changes its chemical properties over time as various parts evaporate. I understand stale fuel also can attack or stiffen soft fuel metering diaphragms and plastics in some carburettors. 9055f8b4-3fea-413a-acf1-55b7e5df1901.jpeg

Thread: Silencer Gaskets
06/07/2020 08:11:29

Good post Robin. That Nord-lock system is clever. Those special washers are a great idea.

As you say the epoxy we use isn’t to glue the exhaust on , but simply to provide a rigid seal on imperfections in the manifold to crankcase contact. I’m quite surprised at the previous post saying the modeller attacked his engine with a hammer to remove the muffler. Maybe the castor in his fuel provided added adhesion?

The epoxy method for sealing manifold to exhaust flange has also been used by model boaters for decades. Boat exhaust systems are long as the include a tuned pipe with a silencer can on the end. As boat engines are mounted on rubber bushes there is a lot of movement in the engine and exhaust system. On boats a very good seal is needed ( or the boat fills with oil and smoke!) as the pipe and can have a fair bit of back pressure. The ability of the exhaust system to move with the engine without loosening is also required. A number of smaller model engines like Rossi’s now use a silicone washer and a spring clamp manifold to connect to the engine. This allows a bit of movement without damage.

Edited By Tim Flyer on 06/07/2020 08:24:16

Edited By Tim Flyer on 06/07/2020 08:28:09

05/07/2020 08:04:23

I would second that . For glow 2S exhausts epoxy. has the advantage that excess is burnt off in the pipe. If you use silicone it can block / restrict exhausts. Even so as said, a very thin smear is all that is needed. Removing epoxy is very easy with a heat gun.  Epoxied bolts can easily be undone after quickly heating with a soldering iron. 

Edited By Tim Flyer on 05/07/2020 08:06:06

Thread: Flying during pandemic.
04/07/2020 09:18:43

c81bd341-79ff-4357-9696-296046a8d415.jpegWe just applied the simple government hygiene and social distancing guidelines , allow only one member in clubhouse at any time, and maximum three on flight line. We also spaced out our flying tables . It has worked well.

Edited By Tim Flyer on 04/07/2020 09:25:12

Edited By Tim Flyer on 04/07/2020 09:28:31

Thread: Laser Engines now closed on Friday's
01/07/2020 14:10:14

That’s good as inevitably the flying weather seems worse at weekends 😉

Thread: DB Hurricane paint and finish.
01/07/2020 14:02:08

On my Chipmunk I used RC Colours clear polyurethane as exterior “fuel proofer” on the cowl and oratex covered surfaces.  I had to do that as my rattle can paint was acrylic based and I didn’t want to play” Russian Roulette “ with whether the Tuff Kote fuel proofer may react. The polyurethane is certainly oil resistant but where the cowl has been splashed with raw fuel near the air vent by filling, there is some very slight surface bubbling after around a dozen flights and Some messy filling. . Given the convenience of polyurethane I would probably use it again . What I’m doing now is connecting a silicone line from the vent back into the fuel can when filling, which prevents messy spray damage.

Edited By Tim Flyer on 01/07/2020 14:02:57

30/06/2020 22:22:25

Coming on nicely 👍 Great cammo! Don’t forget to clean the windscreen 😉

30/06/2020 22:22:23

Coming on nicely 👍 Great cammo! Don’t forget to clean the windscreen 😉

Thread: Chris Foss Xtra Wot
30/06/2020 22:14:31

Looks great Ron! Super Fast Build too!

Thread: What glues do you use?
30/06/2020 14:06:54

I will only use cyano when forced to for instant adhesion or soaking.
Yes it can be brittle, doesn’t sand that well and is not great for re gluing .
For building my main glue is Titebond original which is aliphatic so sands well and costs £9.00 per litre. It’s very good. I use epoxy a fair bit too where maximum strength is needed (especially where there may be fuel and oil contamination) and especially where there is any gap between surfaces. I recently bought some ground cotton to mix in with epoxy which makes very neat high strength filler, although I often use finely chopped glass matting with epoxy as a filler. The great thing with epoxy is that it can be released with heat too.
For canopies I use UHU POR contact adhesive. 


Edited By Tim Flyer on 30/06/2020 14:08:59

Thread: Ripmax WOT 4 XL Gider Tow Release
12/06/2020 17:12:28

I use the Ripmax towhook on my Wot 4XL as above. I have a Futaba S3004 4kg servo powering it . I haven’t had any release problems yet although the gliders that I tow are all under 5kg. The line I use is braided nylon fishing line. Fishing line slides on the metal pin even under load fairly easily as it is nylon so low friction. I fitted the servo in the pre-made servo box in the wing . As said above the lid for the release box comes with the kit . 

Edited By Tim Flyer on 12/06/2020 17:13:38

Edited By Tim Flyer on 12/06/2020 17:15:53

Edited By Tim Flyer on 12/06/2020 17:31:22

Thread: Who Else Wants a 63" Lavochkin La7 kit?
08/06/2020 21:14:27

Hi Ron great job !as was said earlier.

My La7 is 4.8 kg (10.5lb) so quite heavy with the flaps etc. I used a Sarik Hobbies Mosquito spinner due to the flattish profile , the spinner diameter is 4inches. I think my wheels are just 3 inches.

Once I get started on the spit I will definitely start a thread. It’s still in thinking and planning stage at the moment as I just opened the box today. I will need to make various adjustments to accept my Laser 180 so there is a fair bit before I start ...but I will put that on another new thread 😊

06/06/2020 15:59:12

Excellent job Ron , it’s going to be a real beauty! I must admit If had inspired me to revisit my La 7 and try to get the weight down to improve it’s flying. I might remove the flaps which will take a fair bit off. I will have to do it soon though as I have a DB Spitfire Mk1 kit on the way to me which will be my next build project 😊.

Thread: Top Flite P51 - 65" span
06/06/2020 14:41:07

As Ron said the first starter hole is most important. If that’s wrong all the other holes will be out. The centre drill bits are really important as thin drill bits rarely go in straight into metal . As a centre drill is short and fat with an exaggerated pitch it does go in much much more accurately than a standard drill bit. Another tipis also using a centre punch to properly mark the point after the initial mark is made. That way it’s easy to start drilling on the right spot.

06/06/2020 09:37:11

Nigel . When you are drilling engine mounting holes I hope you are using centre drill bits to start the hole such as this ?

The problem with engine mount drilling is often the Mark is in the correct spot if a @dead centre “ marker was used, but thin drill bits will wander when starting a new hole. If you use a proper centre drill bit on a pillar drill and gradually increase diameter to the one required you should have no problems with drill bits wandering off line . Centre drill bits are really important bits of kit as starting a hole in metal plate with a standard drill bit invariably will lead to an off centre hole due to the torque of the drill( very similar to why our planes try to drift leftwards on takeoff) .


Edited By Tim Flyer on 06/06/2020 09:38:39

Edited By Tim Flyer on 06/06/2020 09:45:01

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
02/06/2020 20:22:43

Hi Rocker yes it will with plenty of power although there are a number of issues with the plane. I have one powered by the Laser 180 and there is a quite detailed thread on it . Which I will link


a lot of my assembly notes are on this thread

Edited By Tim Flyer on 02/06/2020 20:27:18

Edited By Tim Flyer on 02/06/2020 20:29:15

Thread: Different shades of white, Oracover (Profilm)
31/05/2020 19:00:00

I did want Oracover paint as it is fuel proof but a number of the colours ( like red) seem to be permanently out of stock .

29/05/2020 23:15:56

Martin I know exactly how you feel . I covered my Chipmunk in Oracover Red . They do lots of reds too! The most annoying thing was trying to buy Oracover matching  Red paint . Of course Oracover list it but supplies are not to be found anywhere even directly from Oracover themselves. When I painted the cowl I had to use spray from the local hardware store for best “match “ .

Edited By Tim Flyer on 29/05/2020 23:16:30

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