Here is a list of all the postings Tim Flyer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: DB Spitfire Build|
I put some sheeting on to check the fit and it’s quite good. All I may very possibly do is add a small fillet to the edge of the small flap near the front . The rear with the twist I put in matches the trailing edge quite well . This morning I laminated the inside of the flap bay and flaps with some ultra light glass cloth and pva to provide some extra stiffness/durability as recommended in the instructions. It was easier and less messy than using epoxy. I will go over any weak spots and gaps in high load areas with epoxy later. For gap filling in stress areas epoxy with ground cotton makes a superb filler. Obviously I’m keeping everything as light as possible on this build ! 😊
I see exactly what you mean . Given the fact that the kit uses a straight dowel to attach the small flap, a substantial curve in the flap would leave the inner edge unsupported. A profiled cone shaped dowel would allow a better result. I I have put a twist in the flap so the trailing edge will be level with the inner sheeting. It’s a reasonable compromise and if necessary later, I can add material to the inner edge further forward. It’s hard to see in the pictures though.
The plan doesn’t mention the bend at all in the small flap so lucky you mentioned it 👍
|Thread: Where do you get your Lead from ?|
Divers use bags of lead shot and most diving shops sell it . I put it in with a bit of gorilla glue.
|Thread: DB Spitfire Build|
Thanks Jon . That first photo was with just one of the small flap ribs in . I have now added the others and clamped it to form a bend . As you said I think it might need an additional spa in front of the small flap in order to match the lower sheeting .
Today I continued with the split flaps. I glued the ribs onto the dowel with cyano. I used aliphatic Tite bond to glue the flap sheeting down as I was a bit concerned about accidentally spilling cyano on the wrong part and ending up with “stuck” rather than split flaps 😊. Just waiting for glue to set then I can carry on . I’m still thinking about solution to tie down the flexible flap joiner . As mentioned earlier DB suggest plastic coated electrical wire. I had thought of making a miniature saddle clamp from tin plate using very small screws to secure it ...but I haven’t decided yet .
|Thread: Seagull Hurricane|
Well done Robert ! Really good to see another Seagull Hurricane flying !😊.
I’m certainly looking forward to being able to fly again after lockdown in the UK, and when the ground finally dries out. from its current sad and soggy state.
|Thread: DB Spitfire Build|
Thanks Dave . The honest answer regarding washout is that I don’t know if there will be a difference as I haven’t started the second wing yet. My first wing seems ok and I did my best to follow instructions.
i glued in the little flap torque rod today . I decided to “bush” the hole where the wire goes through the spar with a short piece of plastic tube and hardened the area with thin cyano. As I have used standard ailerons I have a bit of plastic tube spare .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 14/01/2021 10:32:03
Thanks very much Jon for you’d good advice . As I mentioned these are my first air retracts so it’s a learning experience. Sounds a very good idea keeping them connected. My split wing might complicate it a bit...
typo in my previous post should read.....The barbed air fittings the “RETRACTS “came with ar
The top and bottom of the wing are now both sheeted . Next task is fitting the flaps . Then it’s on to repeating if all again for the second wing as I don’t have space to build two wings at a time.
One slightly frustrating thing is that I can’t really test the retracts yet. I would like to do it to test the angles and wheel well depth etc. The barbed air fittings the flaps came with are designed for a single fitting and did not include quick release “bayonet connections”. If I am to fit and test them I will probably need extra tubing plus quick release fittings etc . As I’m new to air retracts I didn’t have any spares. These fittings will be necessary on the finished model too unless I want to keep the wings on permanently ! The standard barbed connectors I don’t think would appreciate being connected and disconnected repeatedly.
Flap installation is slightly complicated but I have spent a few hours thinking about the installation. The flexible flap tube is held to the wing by “plastic coated electrical wire” and diagonal holes are drilled in the rib to accommodate this. I don’t like the sound of that and will probably make a small and narrow aluminium saddle clamp instead. I’m also using some plastic tubing to act as a bearing where the torque rod runs through the rib into the small flap dowel. As the instructions say the flap area will certainly need some reinforcement.
Edited By Tim Flyer on 13/01/2021 18:35:09
|Thread: Chris Foss Acrowot (KIt Built)|
My kit version now Actually has a tuned (a bit of port work ) OS 55ax and a tuned pipe and is “mental fast” but I must admit I don’t often fly it but when I do it’s great ... it really screams!
Edited By Tim Flyer on 09/01/2021 20:06:39
Hi Chaps . I have two of the small Acrowots one kit version and the other is the ARTF. The one I often fly is the ARTF with a Laser 70. That has plenty of power for it and a larger motor would just add unnecessary weight. It has upwards flaperons which help shorten landings in light winds. My kit version (a bit heavier than the ARTF)Acrowot has an OS 55ax and that is also a good choice. If you are using 4 Stroke a 70 is perfect, for two stroke a 55 is perfect. I would probably use your ASP 70 as it will sound great and have perfect power ... I once had an OSFS70 alpha in my kit Acrowot and that was great too.
|Thread: Messerschmitt P.1091|
Wow great work and an amazing WW2 plane.
The design seems quite ahead of its time. Reminds me of the US U2 spy plane.
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Agreed Bert. Simple is best! No extra tank pressure is needed as laser carbs draw fuel well as they have fairly small venturi. On all my lasers the tank vent is a curved brass tube facing into the airstream. When I'm filling up i attach a long length of silicone pipe from that back into the fuel can to prevent mess/wastage on overfill. My number 2 clunk (used for filling and draining)normally just has a short piece of silicone tubing attached with a small bolt in the outer end to seal it after filling.
|Thread: DB Spitfire Build|
I just started sheeting the bottom wing today . I have added an access bay where the aileron servo lead joins the extension as the routing is a bit convoluted and I didn’t want to install a paper tube lead tube . The retract bay cutting will be started once the glue has set and before the next sheets are added.
I will later on glass the inside surface of the upper sheeting in the split flap bay with thin matting to add rigidity as suggested in the instructions. I also plan to glass the wings on this model .
|Thread: What is the most useless thing you have bought|
I use a mains powered dremmel a lot for grinding, cutting sanding and small hole drilling e.g servo screw holes . In fact I wouldn’t be without it. For cutting cowlings its superb. The extension drive is always attached and I have a hanging hook from the workshop ceiling. When I first bought it I was initially worried as I had been used to larger scale heavy duty tools, however it’s actually very good for models. It’s a modelling tool rather than house building one but as I have larger angle grinders and sanders and lots of larger builders gear that’s no problem for me. It’s nice to be able to grind or cut off a bolt in situ on a model. I certainly couldn’t do that with my larger gear.
The one useless bit of dremmel kit I bought is their “pillar drilll/router stand”.
I use a proper heavy bench Warco pillar drill instead .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 06/01/2021 10:43:09
Edited By Tim Flyer on 06/01/2021 10:49:02
|Thread: rubber / synthetic fabric runway|
Lol. We don’t have a rabbit problem as we share our land with some keen shooters who seem to keep our furry friends at bay. Sometimes the odd fox does dig in the autumn to for the crane fly grubs which can make a bit of a mess, but even so it’s much less of a problem than water. Some of our float plane flyers are happy though!
Our big problem is water soaking and pooling in the winter as our soil is rather heavy clay. We put drainage in the pits area (big gravel filled soak away trench) which was expensive but very effective, but unfortunately cost wise I don’t think we can afford to do our runway.
We are considering having a contractor gradually adding “top dressing” (sharp sand mix)to our runway each year to gradually improve the soil. We estimate we will need about 10tons each year for a few years so that is also quite expensive!!
Edited By Tim Flyer on 06/01/2021 10:08:28
Thank You Cymaz. I thought it might be a bit too much for us . I think we would struggle to do a decent job. We are trying to just improve our grass at the moment.
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