Here is a list of all the postings Tim Flyer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Seagull Hurricane Laser|
Mine is still hanging in the garage ready to test after major repair. Unfortunately with my grass runway it might be a a month or two before the ground is firm enough after a record wet January. The Hertfordshire water table is almost at surface level on the fields and clay soil makes drainage very very slow.
|Thread: DB Hurricane paint and finish.|
It will be interesting to see the cover plates you will be using on the cylinder head vents . It might be useful to form them from thin aluminium sheet with a slight scoop shape to grab air so it can be rammed through the fins. Without some sort of small scoop it looks like airflow inward won’t be nearly as strong with the highly profiled hurricane cowl... ...however from the photo it’s hard to get an idea of depth!
Edited By Tim Flyer on 29/01/2020 08:26:37
Looks very good I think some sort of green grey Camo is fine . By the way what size engine has it got in it . I see a nice Laser V twin is already installed
Edited By Tim Flyer on 29/01/2020 08:14:34
Edited By Tim Flyer on 29/01/2020 08:15:15
|Thread: Mid life crisis prevention required|
A Chris Foss Uno Wot kit would be good. It’s a decent kit plus a traditional trainer and you can buy direct from Chris Foss designs. **LINK**
A Chris Foss Uno Wot kit would be good. It’s a decent kit plus a traditional trainer and you can buy direct from Chris Foss designs.
|Thread: Identifying Laser Engines|
Yes latest bid seems to be £678 . That must be a fair bit more than when new.
Edited By Tim Flyer on 27/01/2020 15:38:33
Astounding! Looks like an old Laser 200v going on eBay now going for over £658.00 Certainly shows laws of supply and demand at work! The engraving on the back makes it sound like a 2011 model too !
|Thread: Trial Flights - Promoting the Hobby|
Hi Simon . I’m our club Treasurer rather than tech guy so sorry if a bit vague with description. Our camera is solar powered and just needs a relatively cheap SIM card to operate. It is mounted on a long scaffold pole . I think the cost is about the same as a cheap mobile phone SIM package (about £10-15 per month) as the camera only takes still pictures every 5 minutes . It was kindly set up by one of our members who is an expert in these things. We also have a portacabin with a small boiler and hot water/ kitchen and I agree that is much more popular than flying in the winter 😊
Edited By Tim Flyer on 14/01/2020 15:07:05
We registered for trial flights but haven’t had requests yet. Most of our new members come from our website link or from friends of existing members .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 14/01/2020 09:06:28
|Thread: SLEC Chipmunk build blog|
Thank You too Rich . 👍
Agreed .. very important on ARTFS . I think it might have been balsa cabin but it was year before last . I always do loads of shopping there for “stock “ as sadly there are no local model shops near me in Hertfordshire. I bought a big tin of it . I wish I had bought more . It’s brilliant for repairs ands sticking film onto,
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 22:42:13
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 22:42:30
Cheers Ash yes that’s my West Systems Epoxy inside . I must admit as I had an early model boat background I like to build to “last” . I think it’s a big advantage interior coating with epoxy. Otherwise one fuel leak can cause permanent damage , plus the epoxy massively strengthens the wood .
That’s it hanging on the ceiling 😊. Thanks for the offer Ash. Hopefully it won’t take too long before our field is ok. While that happens I hope the polyurethane will become more fuel proof. I painted the oratex on the wings with JP brush on polyurethane “high grade fuel proofer”. Although it looks dark, when it’s brushed thin the browning effect is minimal. I sprayed the cowl with RC colours clear gloss which I think is polyurethane. As I only use 5% nitro I think it’s going to be ok! Of course I use my favourite epoxy for all interior fuel proofing and firewall etc 😉
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 21:36:36
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 22:12:14
I use gorilla glue to glue weights in as it expands nicely in voids and clings well to lead etc. It’s great too in engine compartments as being a polyurethane foam it’s also fuel proof. Yep I must admit I do use epoxy a fair bit but the weight added to this plane with it is quite minimal ( about 20g of interior fuel proofing) It has mainly been built with Titebond Aliphatic. Im using two 1600mah LIFEs and twin Futaba electronic heavy duty switches.
Thanks very much Ash . The 50g is glued internally in the very end of the fuselage ....so I’m not going to move it ( I use lead shot and gorilla glue) and I’m keeping the batteries in the central board as it’s neatest plus all done now . I had already thought of rearward batteries but didn’t fancy it as mine are fairly light plus I don’t like long leads and prefer a neat installation. I have used twin decent sized LIFE batteries and twin Futaba switches with internal mounts so I wasn’t worried about the weight. 14 lbs is a mere wisp for the Laser 180 😉 It does feel “light” to me I’m looking forward to flying it. 😊
Just a few extra details that might help others . My build ended up with quite a forward C of G as I was using a bigger than required engine (Laser 180 rather than a Laser 155 which is a much more natural choice on this model ). My total all up weight is just above 14lb so the 180 will not need much throttle! I added 50g of lead into the tail and centrally placed my RX batteries. I swapped out the metal spinner for an Irvine plastic white one to reduce nose weight ( that reduced 50g of weight on the nose). My C of G is now around 1cm or less in front of the wing spar which I hope should be ok on the maiden flight in a month or so. ( our field is still wet !). I also cut out the oleo fairings as per David’s advice to save wing damage when the U/C flexes backwards.
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 14:14:17
Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/01/2020 14:16:31
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot versus Wot4|
I have flown the Riot and Wot 4foam E and would certainly say the Wot 4 foam E is a far more lively plane . The Riot is more of a stable trainer type whereas the Wot4foam E can be thrown around more with its better power to weight ratio. My only real criticism of the Wot 4foam E is poor quality parts giving it a bit of a “budget” feel . The Wot 4 foam e copes Welkom with windy days and I would say a bit better than the riot.
|Thread: 2k aerosol laquers|
I would be very careful putting clearcoat on top of enamel. The chroma enamels are turpentine based and clearcote is cellulose based. If the enamel is very hard and the clearcoat thin and dries quickly you might be ok but be warned that it can bubble up if you put it on thick. On my Chipmunk I’m using polyurethane as fuel proofer on the outside. I used JP clear polyurethane fuel proofer brushed thin to prevent yellowing and som RC Colours clear gloss which seems a bit less yellow. I would have liked to have used Tuffkote or one of the two pack fuel proofer SS but I couldn’t risk it as I had also used acrylic pain in parts and the solvents in the Tuffkote would probably lift it .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 07/01/2020 21:34:18
|Thread: ESM Tigercat - powered by Laser engines|
The idea of proportion of outlet to inlet sizes is only a very rough guide. The most important factor is how both the inlet an outlet sit in the air stream . On my Chipmunk the inlet is smallish but at 90degrees to the airflow so will receive high pressure, and has been well baffled . The outlet was also at 90 degrees to airflow but needed a spoiler to create a reduction in pressure near the outlet ... that dramatically increases extraction flow . The area of inlet and outlet are quite similar. A small spoiler near the outlet guides air away from the exit and really helps .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 04/01/2020 10:04:34
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