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Member postings for Steve J

Here is a list of all the postings Steve J has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: A long screw in a tight hole?
03/11/2015 21:26:21

Try Modelfixings.

Steve

Thread: going with the flow
03/11/2015 21:24:31

I still use 35Mhz, but only for glow powered models, my electrics and petrols are on 2.4Hz. I plan to keep flying on 35MHz until my PCM9XII dies, although I must admit that I do miss having the nice lady in my DX9 talk to me whenever I use the 9XII.

Steve

Thread: JR X-3810 manual required
01/11/2015 20:35:19

Nice to see that you have got a proper radio at last.

Does this help ?

http://www.jramericas.com/manuals/jrp8612-manual.pdf

Rumour has it that it is the same/similar to the 3810.

Steve

Thread: Modify old 35mhz transmitter or retire it?
31/10/2015 08:40:01
Posted by cymaz on 31/10/2015 05:45:26:

As for battery, Steve Webb or Component Shop might be worth a phone call.

I'd add Overlander to this list. Component Shop will make up packs to your requirements, the only question being the connector.

For receivers, I'd be tempted to give a Corona synth a go.

Steve

Thread: DX6/AR6210 in Graupner Me BF108 - Help!!
29/10/2015 17:11:37
Posted by Ken Tarran on 29/10/2015 16:29:40:

how would this be connected to the Rx given that all the sockets are in use on the Spektrum AR610 Rx?

If I was using all six outputs on an AR610, I would probably have an indicator and a socket for a Flight Log/TM1000/bind plug in the bind/data port and the power going in on either the rudder or throttle port in parallel with the servo.

Posted by Ken Tarran on 29/10/2015 16:17:07:

a customer who had been watching and listening to the diagnosis revealed that he changes all his Rx batteries for new ones at the start of every flying season.

Seems a bit excessive. Mine seems to last 4-5 years before they fail one of my periodic battery tests (I cycle Eneloops once or twice a year and other NiHMs every 3-4 months).

Steve

Thread: LED lighting, home brewed
28/10/2015 09:31:38

Make sure that you disconnect the red wire in the cable from the ESC to the receiver.

Steve

28/10/2015 09:02:52

A 1W driver, and two 1W LEDs with a £5 brushed ESC being used as a switch.

img_20151028_084925124.jpg

Thread: DX6/AR6210 in Graupner Me BF108 - Help!!
27/10/2015 07:34:39
Posted by Ken Tarran on 26/10/2015 16:49:21:

By the way I don't have a voltmeter to check what's happening as you suggest.

You can get 7mm segment voltage meters for £3.50 (or less) each from the likes of Component Shop and Banggood. Most of my glow and petrol models have them on the receiver power rail. I find them much more useful than the LED strips.

As you are using a DX6, another option would be to get a Spektrum TM1000 and connect it to the receiver. This would give you a display of the receiver voltage on your transmitter.

Steve

26/10/2015 14:06:40
Posted by Ken Tarran on 26/10/2015 13:23:27:

Tornado 2000

AA or subC? How old? From the voltage it sounds like a 5 cell NiHM.

I would suggest putting a voltmeter in the bind/data port so that you can see what is happening to the voltage as you add the servos. I would also measure the resistance over any switches and check the wiring for damage.

Steve

26/10/2015 12:48:44
Posted by Ken Tarran on 26/10/2015 12:03:40:

the orange light on the Rx starts flashing too.

If the orange LED on the receiver is flashing slowly (not the fast bind flash) then you are dragging the power rail down close to 3V.

1) Check the Y leads.

2) What battery are you using?

Steve

Thread: Spektrum Airware update
24/10/2015 08:56:10

Spektrum released an update to the software for their current range of aircraft transmitters on the 22nd. If you have registered your transmitter with them, you should have had an email, if you haven't registered, you will have to go to spektrumrc.com and do so in order to download the update.

The main change is the addition of a airframe type for multirotors. The rest seems to be bugfixes and minor tweeks.

Thread: LED lighting, home brewed
22/10/2015 21:34:27

To have both nav and landing lights, this is what I would suggest.

img_20151022_210924024.jpg

11 ohms may be a better resistor value. The heaviest thing here is the LiPo.

If you use a 1S LiPo (or 4S NiMH), then you have to use resistors and end up using more current, so the LiPo would end up being a similar weight. Swings and roundabouts.

Steve

22/10/2015 17:55:31

The following reflects my understanding of the drivers that component shop sell. Note that I've only used their 1W drivers with single 1W LEDs.

You loose at least 2.5V across the driver, around 2.1V over a red LED and 3.2V over green and white LEDs, so you could use a 1W driver to power a green, a red and a white 1W LED in series off a 3S LiPo supply. Personally, I would be tempted to go for two circuits, one for the wing tip lights and one for the tail light. For the landing light, I would use a 3W driver and a 3W LED.

1W is the minimum that I would use for lights, I have 25mA LEDs as nav lights on a couple of models and, while they look fine in the workshop, they are pretty useless once the model is more than 50m away.

Steve

22/10/2015 10:42:34

You really should put a small resistor in the circuit if you going to power these from 4.8V, probably something around 1-2 ohms and 5W. Alternatively, you use a driver circuit (like the one component shop sell for 3W LEDs - http://www.componentshop.co.uk/high-power-led-drivers-3w.html) and power them from a 2S LiPo.

There are various options for turning the power to them on and off, e.g. a cheap brushed motor speed controller.

Thread: Wing loading query
18/10/2015 17:49:25

I've got a 2.5m glider that has a wing loading of 16oz/ft2....

Steve

Thread: Options for H9 Corsair f4u 20cc
18/10/2015 12:19:34

I have a Laser 1.50 in a H9 P-47D-1 (which is more or less the same size as the Corsair). The model flies nicely with this engine, but, if I built another H9 P-47 or the Corsair, I would be tempted to fit a bigger engine (maybe an ASP 1.80) as I ended up with a lot of lead around the Laser.

Steve

Thread: CC3D for fixed wing
14/10/2015 18:07:29

Thinking about it, I recall changing the responsiveness settings to give the model the same feel in manual and rate.

The thing that you have to get your head around is the fact that you are now doing stuff in a controller in the model that you would normally be doing in the transmitter.

Steve

14/10/2015 10:01:21

I have a CC3D in a Parkzone Mosquito. I use three modes -

a) takeoff: all surfaces manual and the gear down.

b) cruise: all surfaces rate gyro and the gear up.

c) land: rudder and aileron in rate, elevator in manual and gear down.

As I recall, all the PID setting are still the defaults for fixed wing.

Steve

Thread: Engine selection help.
11/10/2015 08:46:34
Posted by StuartC on 10/10/2015 13:40:17:

I have been given a 74 inch span p47.

( I think it was for a .60+ glow engine ).

.60 glow sounds small for a Jug that size. My 67" P47 is just about right with a Laser 1.50 (and a load of lead) up front. I would be looking at a 26-30cc petrol for a 74" P47.

Steve

Thread: Servo Arms / Horns
04/10/2015 17:50:19

I usually put QuickUK horns on my standard size Savox servos. Their long double arm is 35mm between the outer holes and the inner holes on the their 'Super Size' double horn are 50mm apart.

http://www.quickuk.eu/cat/general_parts/servo_arms___wheels.html

Steve

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