Here is a list of all the postings Jonathan W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Try reversing the throttle channel. For safety, remove the propeller while you are doing these checks.
|Thread: Hitec Optic 6 Sport|
I have been trying this with my old Optic 6, which I don't use much these days since switching to an Aurora 9X, so I've been re-learning it.
When I hold down the link button on the back of the Tx while switching on, the LED immediately starts flashing, no waiting involved. To link to an Optima Rx it needs to be flashing red. If it is flashing blue (for Minima Rx), press and hold the link button again for a couple of seconds and the flashing should swap from the blue to the red LED. Then you can turn on the Rx while also pressing its link button, as per the instructions.
If the Tx LED is flashing blue, it won't ever bind to the Optima Rx. If the Tx LED is not flashing at all after powering up with the button pressed, it sounds like something wrong.
My Optic linked first try when following the instructions just now, no problem.
I appreciate that maybe money is tight, but I can recommend the Hitec Flash 7 Tx as a big improvement over the Optic 6, with a much more user friendly menu system and a better quality feel. You should be able to pick one up secondhand for a reasonable price, since Hitec gear is going a little "out of fashion" these days. However, my Hitec gear has always been 100% reliable and never any interference problems.
|Thread: Vintage Futaba servo FD17M - safe voltage?|
Indeed they are the big old 17M's!!
Also note, the old M series radios had servo neutral position at 1.3ms pulse width, whereas modern gear is at 1.5, so the neutral will be shifted. You might be able to correct for this with sub-trim. The servo output shafts are square, not splined, so you won't be able to simply move the arms around. Some of the arms had square sockets, giving only quadrant alternatives. Other arms had 8 point star sockets to give 45 deg position adjustment steps.
The other alternative is to dismantle the servos and move the pots around a bit to reset the neutral.
In any case, you might run out of mechanical travel at extreme end point of 2ms pulse width. It might be necessary to limit end points in your transmitter programming.
I think you'd be pushing your luck going anything over 6 volts. These servos date back to late 70's. In fact, I'm looking at them now in the 1979 Ripmax catalogue!! When using 4 x dry cells, in those days these would quickly sag to below 6v as soon as you put a load on them. But most often it would be a 4 cell NiCad battery pack, nudging 6v fully charged but again sagging to 5.something once under load.
I would stick to 4 cell NiMh, or a UBEC set to 5.0 or 5.5v.
By the way, the FD17M was large "heavy duty" waterproof servo most commonly used in boats and RC cars of the day. They are quite a bit larger than a "standard" servo, so I'm surprised they were used in a glider.
Edit to say: by 6 volts max, I mean 6 actual volts, not a "nominal" 6 volts battery which might be 6.6 or whatever. If you blow these, no spares are available. They'll be slow anyway, at any voltage, compared to anything nowadays. Ripmax catalogue quotes 0.4 sec transit time.
Edited By Jonathan W on 17/01/2020 15:21:22
Exactly! Why not mail back asking them for a telephone contact so that you can have a chat? Then you'll soon find out if they are genuinely interested or purporting to be your long lost cousin in Nigeria.
|Thread: Firefly 46|
I have pdf files of all the plans, if anybody wants them.
|Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread|
Surely we don't need to carry our A certificates? Our BMFA membership cards have our achievements listed, in my case "A(FW)".
Today at our club, nobody was talking about any of this stuff. We just took advantage of a break in the weather to have a great day flying.
|Thread: Colin Chapman - Midlands Flight Training|
I am local to Colin and had a session with him a few years ago. He is a very good instructor. I learned a lot from him in only a couple of hours. However, it has since proved impossible to get hold of him and some of my club mates familiar with him have the same experience. We are all wondering why he continues to advertise and then does not respond to inquiries.
If you do manage to contact him, please let us know how it goes. It would be good if he is available again.
Edited By Jonathan W on 14/10/2019 15:37:36
|Thread: LiFe battery|
It might come back. Try charging it a low rate as NiMh battery and monitor the voltage. When it gets back up to around 6v, then you should switch the charger back to an "intelligent" 2S LiFe setting. Once it's taken a full charge, do a discharge/charge cycle and see what capacity it has.
That's my suggestion anyway.
|Thread: Irvine 61 new bearings|
That is where the bearing splitter mentioned in the other thread comes in handy. The knife edges of the splitter will get into the small gap between the bearing and the crank web.
Aye, I'm no longer surprised that I see so many engines with butchered prop drivers and damaged crank threads, when I read the bodges espoused on this and other threads!! Mixed in with some sound good advice of course Nothing works better than the right tools for the job.
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
I'm sure that the nutty professor who sat next to Dave Phipps in the Commons Committee could tell us!
|Thread: Irvine .53 / Ugly Stik|
That's a good point from Nigel R on the wing section and reflects my experience of reluctance to spin. Also, I would agree that no dihedral is necessary.
On the engine front, the Enya 60 was a good engine of its time and will only be a little short of power compared to the Irvine 53. The silencers in those days were less restrictive, so that tends to boost the Enya relatively.
The Rival looks good and you could stretch that towards 60" if you wanted to play around with CAD.
Ref the weight of the OS91FX in my 72" Ugly, it's a light engine for its size and weighs 550g, exactly the same weight as the OS61FX (quoted from the OS owners manual). The 72" Ugly has 1000 sq.in wing area and is draggy, so it needs the power. I was flying it only yesterday!
I have to disagree with this. If my 72" version is good with a 91 engine, I don't see how a 66" version will be adequately powered by a 53. No doubt it would get off the ground, but remember that this particular model has a large wing area (low aspect ratio wing), thick wing section and is very draggy. I would expect 55 to 60" tops to be suitable for the Irvine. But in the end, we all have an opinion, so take your pick!
For another point of reference, another club member powered his 72" Ugly with a 91 4 stroke and said it flew like a trainer, very sedate.
Edit to say...
Looking at the various plans on Outerzone, the original Phil Kraft design was 60" and he typically used an Enya 60, which was a old crossflow engine, although the model would also fly more sedately on a 45. Therefore I would say, go with the original 60" design by Phil Kraft and the Irvine 53 will be spot on. Why mess about scaling up or down when you have a proven plan just the right size?
Edited By Jonathan W on 14/09/2019 00:06:43
I don't know the exact answer to your question, but I have a 72" Ugly and it's about right with an OS91FX (2 stroke) on a 14x7. It will go vertical not unlimited, but a long way, such that to do stall turns you need to throttle back. Therefore your proposed 55" and engine/prop sounds in the right ball park.
I would advise that the fuselage has very little side area (hence "Stick" and this does limit the aerobatic range. Also, it has a wide chord "barn door" type wing and I find that mine does not spin very well, tends to end up in a slow spiral dive despite the CG being a little to the rear.
That said, it's a good tough hack model that you don't need to be too proud of. It floats in on landings really nicely and is very forgiving.
PS the smiley was accidental, but happens to be about right!
Edited By Jonathan W on 13/09/2019 22:30:27
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
Aye, but how do the people getting annoyed about being over-flown know about the PFCO or risk assessment? Even if the drone in future had EC, are the people underneath supposed to look it up on a smart phone "App" and then realise that they are not entitled to be annoyed?
Edited By Jonathan W on 06/09/2019 14:03:58
|Thread: Drones in the news - again...|
It's business as usual. Back when the illegal CB craze was causing problems for RC modellers, the same publisher was producing RC magazines and magazines promoting CB.
All very well, but what is the justification for a 2 NM radius no fly zone? 1/2 mile would have been enough. As it was, not only were people rightly not allowed to fly at the event at the Hoe, nor were they alowed to fly from land across the other side of both the river esturies.
The flyers were probably breaching the normal restrictions of flying in proximity to people & property anyway, without any no fly zone being imposed.
|Thread: Advice needed|
My condolences also Jill.
If you can say what area of the country you are located, this might generate some interest from people local enough to collect the model.
|Thread: ASP prop driver stuck!|
I should have said before, but was trying to keep the word count down!! Yes, I have experienced a prop driver moving back and locking the engine and this was due to the prop driver splitting from the taper after it was over-tightened (by A.N. Other). In my case, the prop driver was a casting and therefore more brittle than machined aluminium. It had spilt radially all the way out from the taper bore to the outside. Due to being fully split, it had lost much of its strength and pulled off very easily.
This does not appear to exactly be the case with yours. I'm not familiar with the ASP 4 strokes. All mine are OS & Saito. Is the ASP prop driver a casting, or machined from solid? It would be surprising if a driver machined from solid bar had spilt, but then it may be low quality material. Also there could be a fault with the taper collet, if for example it was machined towards the bottom of the tolerance range and had finally allowed the driver to move back just that fraction too much.
Good luck with your task. I'm also a customer of Cromwell tools. Your separator should do the job, so long as you ordered the appropriate size.
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