Here is a list of all the postings Max Z has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Skyleader Courier FrSky conversion problem.|
Two things strike me as odd, firstly, you should not have to go through the binding procedure when merely swapping a servo for an esc. Secondly, all (modern) ESC's will not "burst into life", but only arm when you move your stick to the minimum throttle setting first, irrespective of which end of your stick travel that is. Do you have any control over the rpm at all?
Edited By Max Z on 11/04/2019 08:18:01
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
My version of Ton van Munsteren's cartoon scale micro mustang (RCM&E free plan):
|Thread: Verhees Delta|
That, and as Bart told us at the presentation, you can slide in head first and inspect the rudder control mechanism without the need for an external inspection opening.
Thanks for posting the piccies and vids, I had not seen those yet. Designing a V2, hmmmm....
I did go to a presentation of the design aspects of the V2 by Bart Verhees last year, hoping that he would fly in either version or at least trailer it in, but alas, weather conditions prevailed.
An interesting presentation nevertheless, where my model was the (static) demonstrator
|Thread: RBC kits A4 Skyhawk build|
Sorry Jack, this was 18 years ago, I don't remember. I have tried to find relevant pictures, but on only one of those (of the completed and dark blue covered model) I can vaguely see that the servo was in the fin, above and slightly aft of the LE of the tailplane. I think the arm was sticking out and moved the elevator with a linking rod and the horn sitting on top. This seems to be confirmed by some of my build pictures showing a slot in the fin. What does the current drawing say?
Edited By Max Z on 13/03/2019 16:48:32
This is how I actuated the ailerons, the little pocket in the aileron in which the rod is sliding is still to be constructed here.
Nice to see the Skyhawk being built again Jack. I did part of the design for RBC way back then, in fact my prototype is still hanging in the RBCkits office (the Blue Angels version you can see in the pictures on the website).
I gave it up at an early stage, not because it did not fly well, but I had trouble keeping my orientation. The all-blue scheme did not help there.
Have fun with the build.
|Thread: vinyl cutters|
THIS is a good page to compare features of the different upgrades, with prices, and complete with links to YT videos showing the details of each feature.
Oh, and remember to place your dxf design somewhere near the origin before exporting. It will save you searching for it in space when imported into Silhouette Studio .
Edited By Max Z on 28/02/2019 13:42:50
I use the standard Silhouette Studio software. Most of the stuff I cut gets designed in my Rhinoceros cad software, then exported as .dxf which Silhouette Studio can import. Any cad program that can export in .dxf can be used of course.
You can download the software for free from SilhouetteAmerica.com and see the possibilities for yourself.
Edited By Max Z on 25/02/2019 21:50:23
Got somebody to shoot some moving pictures of me and my LightThing (follow the link to YouTube for a slightly better qualtity):
Edited By Max Z on 24/02/2019 17:32:58
The first flight in the new configuration (revised rudders, new motor) is a fact, with very satisfying results. I had to experiment a bit with the down thrust angle, but I have settled that. The no-power dive test confirmed the balance between CofG and fin area is now ok, leaving the CofG at about 25% chord.
I will try to get someone to shoot some video this weekend.
|Thread: Which Set Should I buy|
HERE is a document that can be found on the Multiplex website. Now, I know that it is in German, and it is from a different brand of RC gear, but as Peter has said the same rules apply. The interesting bit for you may be the pictures at the bottom of the page. What they show is the sensitivity of the Rx aerials, which is a donut shape around the aerials. Equally, the strength of the Tx signal is shaped the same way.
The recommendation for the Tx is to direct the aerial horizontally sideways, in which case the signal strength is strongest directly in front of you, at any angular elevation. (assuming you are moving your Tx around to follow the aircraft, FPV flyers hold their Tx stationary, and will have to use a different strategy). For the Rx, the best reception will be dependant on the attitude of the aircraft, but you can work out that your best chances are indeed to mount dual aerials horizontally, at 90 degrees from each other. The worst situation will then be that each aerial is at 45 degrees to the Tx aerial, which will still give a reasonable signal.
For a single aerial, your best bet is to point it straight up, the worst case then is looking at the top or the bottom of your airplane, which is normally not a sustained attitude.
Edited By Max Z on 22/02/2019 14:40:41
Fly boy, does this answer your question?:
There is even bamboo (connecting the fins) and beech involved (tail booms, now whether that was such a brilliant idea? Maybe carbon fibre tubing would be better).
Thanks for the encouragement guys, I'll see if Graham is interested in a plan .
It is a bit windy today, but I will probably test the new configuration this afternoon.
Matty, control is rudder and elevator, mixed for V-tail of course. Dihedral is 5 degrees, which is stable enough. It will roll, but very barrely. Oh well, no prizes for precision aerobatics..
David, A very nice plane you have there, I was not aware of the Funder&Lightning design. I am glad yo like my word play, indeed referring to the (very, very distant) resemblance with the famous Lockheed fighter. It is always a bit of a risk for me as a non-native English speaker, what seems to be playful to me might not be so in your eyes, or worse, it may be offensive language I did not know of its existence.
About control, it works the same way as a regular V-tail, see it as a left/right swap of the tail surfaces. The elevator and rudder movements work exactly the same way. The trick in setting the correct direction of the rudder movement is to see them as a regular rudder, cranked onto its side. For a normal V-tail, this is a bit counter-intuitive, you tend to see them as ailerons, but they need to move in the opposite direction as rudders. In my case, because of the "swap", they do operate both as rudders and ailerons(with limited effect) though.
Edited By Max Z on 20/02/2019 11:25:18
Motor installation (probably a Turnigy type, but can't be sure):
I am sharing my latest "in-between" project, The LightThing. I had already placed some pictures in the "New Models" thread just after the first flights. Those flights indicated that I needed quite a bit more weight at the front, and that the power was a bit marginal, so I swapped the tiny drone motor for a bigger one to address both issues, more weight and more power.
I was not happy with the forward CofG position, so I also decided to add extra area to the twin fins, by enlarging the rudders with about 25% more area.
We'll see how it works out as soon as the conditions allow.
Span 670 mm
Weight 250 grams AUW
Motor ?? (2804 or something)
Prop 6x5.5 APC
Cells 2s-0.95 Ah
Current draw 5.5 A
Edited By Max Z on 19/02/2019 12:16:35
|Thread: Vinyl cutter thoughts please.|
This was discussed HERE not so long ago.
Edited By Max Z on 18/02/2019 16:24:42
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
But there is a lot of HK stuff under the skin ....
It flew ok, but there are a few issues I have to resolve, like the C of G. It needed 20 grams extra up front to get it to fly comfortably, which is a lot for an airplane of a mere 220 grams. The other thing is motor power. It was just enough in todays conditions ( 4-5 m/s wind), could do with a bit more.
Mind you, the current motor is a very small drone motor of 18 mm diameter, so replacing that with a bigger one could solve both issues. On hindsight I should have used carbon tubes rather than the 5 mm beech dowel for the tail booms, lighter and better twist resistance. That is why I added the connecting bamboo skewer between the fins, it would have just been too floppy without. The skewer firms it up considerably.
Pitch and yaw are controlled with the red tail surfaces, oriented as an inverted V. No roll control.
Span is 670 mm.
Edited By Max Z on 17/02/2019 15:45:44
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