Here is a list of all the postings Max Z has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: FrSky Taranis - user chat|
Yes! Thanks Bob!
Hello all. I am a newbee when it comes to all things Taranis and open TX. I have not got a Taranis as yet, but I have my eye on the Q X7.
What I am trying to do right now is to get a simulation going. I have browsed through the Open TX university site, read THIS thread on RCG, read Alex Datos' initial setup guide on the X7, and (started to) read the series of Open TX papers by Martin Phillips. And I have installed the Companion on my Mac and downloaded the latest RC (2.2.0 N366). Understandably, all the manuals and guides start with the assumption that you already have a transmitter, but what I would like to know is if there is a way to simulate the Q X7 in Companion without actually having the transmitter. Anybody?
(@Chris Bott:eagerly awaiting your review of the beast in the next issue of RCM&E, Chris)
Edited By Max Z on 05/04/2017 12:44:16
|Thread: Arduino Software Help Using an EDF|
Come to think of it, you really do not need a separate arming sequence. Parameter escOn is set to false on start-up, so a 0 value will be written to theESC, and it will initiate.
Another thought: theESC.write(0) will generate a very short PPM pulse, probably around 0.5 - 0.7 ms. Standard receiver ppm pulses vary from 1 - 2 ms. It could be that the behaviour that you see is due to the ESC not coping with such low values and quitting as it perceives it as a faulty transmission. So try a higher value.
From the ESC manual: "Full throttle position will be automatically calibrated on start-up"
For some reason, Bob has written the values 30 and 90 in the start-up loop. Unless you changed those as Bob suggested in the code this means 90 is seen by the ESC as full throttle (and possibly 30 for throttle-off. I would not expect the ESC to initiate at such a relatively high setting, but apparently it does). In the main loop the value is raised to 180 for spin-up of the EDF, then lowered to 0 for shut-down.
I don't know if it will improve things, but it is worth investigating if setting the values for start-up/calibration also at 0 and 180 makes a difference.
Edited By Max Z on 28/03/2017 22:59:03
|Thread: Sbus Receivers|
I'm interested, but for a different project I am developing. My project is based on the MiniPro as shown in the foreground, but I am not keen in soldering all the servo pins/connections. Hence the question, is the larger board a commercially available Arduino(clone) board?
Edited By Max Z on 24/03/2017 17:36:46
|Thread: Arduino Software Help Using an EDF|
Bob, a question for my education: I was telling Tom earlier that to use a comparison with ==HIGH or ==LOW you need to specify the data type as a boolean type. Now I see you using the byte type for currentSwitchState, but when I look on the Arduino reference page I read that the byte data type is an 8-bit unsigned number from 0 to 255. How does that work?
@Phil: your original post referred to the setSpeed routine, I did not find it there. Your edited post is consistent with my comments.
@Bob: You did not include the run up sequence that Tom has included (but forgot to mention in the description). But you did include the pushbutton toggle which I ignored
?? I don't see that, Phil.
To begin with, you are mixing up datatypes. You specify switchState as an integer, you do an analogRead of the sensor pin and later you use it in a comparison expecting it to behave as a boolean (==HIGH, ==LOW)
Secondly, why are you doing a digitalWrite(9)? Increasing speed in the for loop and calling setSpeed should be enough, since myServo is already attached to pin 9, and will be updated in setSpeed.
Thirdly, the comparison in else is not necessary, If switchState is not LOW it will be HIGH ("else" should be "else if" if you are using a comparison anyway).
Change the main loop to if ......==HIGH; <insert your "for" sequence>; else speed = 0;
Hope this helps you,
|Thread: Electrifying a pedal cycle|
As an E-bike rider for over 6 years, I think I can speak with some authority (not much..). My wife and me are riding a Trek with a rear wheel mounted BionX motor. Mostly for everyday use, nowhere near the distances you are talking about.
The EU rules for a Pedelec are stating that the motor power shall not exceed 250W and the bike shall not be capable of speeds over 25 kmh when motor assisted (you can always pedal faster than that, but the motor should switch off at 25 kmh). Another rule is that the bike should be pedal-assisted, you have to move the pedals to switch on the assistance. It seems to me that the basic offer in the link you gave does not have such a feature, it says there that you have to push a speed control lever.
There are two ways to get the motor going, by just treading on the pedals so they go around, or by measuring the force you excert on the chain (and move the pedals around) to proportionally control your motor. I favour the latter system, since that gives you a more natural feeling, comparable with the wind blowing from behind to help you. You still have to react on increased incline by downchanging gears, and you get a better feeling of the power your motor is delivering since it is a fraction of your own efforts. I think the last option on the website you linked to is just that, I recognize the requirement for a square taper on the bottom bracket. This is most likely to position the force sensor in the correct way so it measures the force excerted by the chain without any influences of acceleration forces in the vertical caused by bumps in the road or weightshifting.
Edited By Max Z on 13/03/2017 21:16:17
|Thread: FMS Alpha Jet 2ch R/C conversion for PSS|
I'll say! I bought one the other day and spent more time repacking it than the time it took to inspect it properly.
Text removed (old news...)
Edited By Max Z on 12/03/2017 14:27:04
|Thread: Verhees Delta|
Very good video on the full size:
Edited By Max Z on 03/03/2017 16:36:06
|Thread: Which plane + transmitter for me and my lad please?|
It does not look like it has many programming options for endpoint adjustment and such, although these days it is hard to say. Even cheap sets may have possibilities for programming from your PC, you don't know until you read the manual (although I do not see a connection socket). And it does not state or shows that it has a trainer port, if that is interesting you. In your opening post you said you wanted "flexibility for going forward", that is not just the number of channels, but also it's programming capability like delta and V-tail mixes.
I can only recommend what I know, and in the lower priced category that is the Flysky/Turnigy i6 already mentioned.
Edit: it does seem to have a V-tail mixer.
Edited By Max Z on 26/01/2017 16:48:20
The Flysky FS-i6 is also sold under the Turnigy TGY-i6 label (not the i6S !). I have got one, and I can support Dave's opinion on this Tx. Good value for money.
Edited By Max Z on 25/01/2017 20:08:35
|Thread: Verhees Delta|
Some more flying today, managed to take some shots of mine:
Actually, there was about twice as much footage, but most of it had the plane so far in the distance that it's just boring to watch. I am a bit disappointed about the little camera that I bought as a hatcam. Mind you, I think the quality is quite good but the lens has a too wide field of vision. I am hoping that other lenses become available soon.
Edited By Max Z on 22/01/2017 19:22:00
Today we tested the second prototype, built and flown by my friend Rob. Mine is ready and has flown yesterday (no video). All is well, but we are both struggling a bit to get the CG in the right place. Rob has managed it better than me, but he had to sacrifice bits of the cockpit interior to get the battery up front. We are looking for the best compromise, we'll get there.
Edited By Max Z on 20/01/2017 20:37:10
I am not sure what the tailwheel is like in the RBCkits kit, but the original one that I drafted on the free plan is quite springy, and I found that it had a tendency to kick up the tail resulting in the prop striking the ground. It happened mainly when taxiing slowly, as soon as I accelerated the prop blast over the elevator would push the tail down again.
It got a bit annoying, so I cured it by indeed bending the main L/G legs slightly forward.
|Thread: French Balsa designations on Plans|
= Template for the wing dihedral.
|Thread: Newbie here. Burnt out motor...|
E-motors are destroyed by too many Amps. 6s is ok for any motor as long as you load it correctly by selecting the right prop for the resulting rpm's.
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