Here is a list of all the postings Max Z has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: vinyl cutters|
I use the standard Silhouette Studio software. Most of the stuff I cut gets designed in my Rhinoceros cad software, then exported as .dxf which Silhouette Studio can import. Any cad program that can export in .dxf can be used of course.
You can download the software for free from SilhouetteAmerica.com and see the possibilities for yourself.
Edited By Max Z on 25/02/2019 21:50:23
Got somebody to shoot some moving pictures of me and my LightThing (follow the link to YouTube for a slightly better qualtity):
Edited By Max Z on 24/02/2019 17:32:58
The first flight in the new configuration (revised rudders, new motor) is a fact, with very satisfying results. I had to experiment a bit with the down thrust angle, but I have settled that. The no-power dive test confirmed the balance between CofG and fin area is now ok, leaving the CofG at about 25% chord.
I will try to get someone to shoot some video this weekend.
|Thread: Which Set Should I buy|
HERE is a document that can be found on the Multiplex website. Now, I know that it is in German, and it is from a different brand of RC gear, but as Peter has said the same rules apply. The interesting bit for you may be the pictures at the bottom of the page. What they show is the sensitivity of the Rx aerials, which is a donut shape around the aerials. Equally, the strength of the Tx signal is shaped the same way.
The recommendation for the Tx is to direct the aerial horizontally sideways, in which case the signal strength is strongest directly in front of you, at any angular elevation. (assuming you are moving your Tx around to follow the aircraft, FPV flyers hold their Tx stationary, and will have to use a different strategy). For the Rx, the best reception will be dependant on the attitude of the aircraft, but you can work out that your best chances are indeed to mount dual aerials horizontally, at 90 degrees from each other. The worst situation will then be that each aerial is at 45 degrees to the Tx aerial, which will still give a reasonable signal.
For a single aerial, your best bet is to point it straight up, the worst case then is looking at the top or the bottom of your airplane, which is normally not a sustained attitude.
Edited By Max Z on 22/02/2019 14:40:41
Fly boy, does this answer your question?:
There is even bamboo (connecting the fins) and beech involved (tail booms, now whether that was such a brilliant idea? Maybe carbon fibre tubing would be better).
Thanks for the encouragement guys, I'll see if Graham is interested in a plan .
It is a bit windy today, but I will probably test the new configuration this afternoon.
Matty, control is rudder and elevator, mixed for V-tail of course. Dihedral is 5 degrees, which is stable enough. It will roll, but very barrely. Oh well, no prizes for precision aerobatics..
David, A very nice plane you have there, I was not aware of the Funder&Lightning design. I am glad yo like my word play, indeed referring to the (very, very distant) resemblance with the famous Lockheed fighter. It is always a bit of a risk for me as a non-native English speaker, what seems to be playful to me might not be so in your eyes, or worse, it may be offensive language I did not know of its existence.
About control, it works the same way as a regular V-tail, see it as a left/right swap of the tail surfaces. The elevator and rudder movements work exactly the same way. The trick in setting the correct direction of the rudder movement is to see them as a regular rudder, cranked onto its side. For a normal V-tail, this is a bit counter-intuitive, you tend to see them as ailerons, but they need to move in the opposite direction as rudders. In my case, because of the "swap", they do operate both as rudders and ailerons(with limited effect) though.
Edited By Max Z on 20/02/2019 11:25:18
Motor installation (probably a Turnigy type, but can't be sure):
I am sharing my latest "in-between" project, The LightThing. I had already placed some pictures in the "New Models" thread just after the first flights. Those flights indicated that I needed quite a bit more weight at the front, and that the power was a bit marginal, so I swapped the tiny drone motor for a bigger one to address both issues, more weight and more power.
I was not happy with the forward CofG position, so I also decided to add extra area to the twin fins, by enlarging the rudders with about 25% more area.
We'll see how it works out as soon as the conditions allow.
Span 670 mm
Weight 250 grams AUW
Motor ?? (2804 or something)
Prop 6x5.5 APC
Cells 2s-0.95 Ah
Current draw 5.5 A
Edited By Max Z on 19/02/2019 12:16:35
|Thread: Vinyl cutter thoughts please.|
This was discussed HERE not so long ago.
Edited By Max Z on 18/02/2019 16:24:42
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
But there is a lot of HK stuff under the skin ....
It flew ok, but there are a few issues I have to resolve, like the C of G. It needed 20 grams extra up front to get it to fly comfortably, which is a lot for an airplane of a mere 220 grams. The other thing is motor power. It was just enough in todays conditions ( 4-5 m/s wind), could do with a bit more.
Mind you, the current motor is a very small drone motor of 18 mm diameter, so replacing that with a bigger one could solve both issues. On hindsight I should have used carbon tubes rather than the 5 mm beech dowel for the tail booms, lighter and better twist resistance. That is why I added the connecting bamboo skewer between the fins, it would have just been too floppy without. The skewer firms it up considerably.
Pitch and yaw are controlled with the red tail surfaces, oriented as an inverted V. No roll control.
Span is 670 mm.
Edited By Max Z on 17/02/2019 15:45:44
Own design, first flights today:
|Thread: Arduino project - Servo Exerciser - RCM&E Dec 2018|
I did a sketch for a friend who needed to delay the middle position of a 3-pos. switch operating a pneumatic landing gear and -doors. The idea was to hold a fixed mid-position for 4 seconds, irrespective of the switch position, to avoid a collision of the doors with the retracting wheel. The end positions of the door servo were to be left as received from the Tx/Rx for trimming purposes. I used the standard PWM read and write code, but found the output unstable, jumping about 20-30 microseconds about every second. I eventually resorted to using fixed endpoints as well, leaving the trimming to be done mechanically or by altering the PWM values.
|Thread: KLM PH - LKJ (Walker's Westway Models Limited)|
Get in touch with the Aviodrome museum in the Netherlands (firstname.lastname@example.org) and see if they are interested or have information. They have a full size Constellation on display.....
|Thread: Oracover Brushed Aluminium Film|
FWIIW I have not had any problems with the HK covering, applied on top & bottom with the rx aerial tucked inside.
I had good results with Hobbyking "Bright Silver" film, which has a brushed appearance:
Edited By Max Z on 07/01/2019 10:38:00
|Thread: Retractable SLS Systems|
Another option, probably not cheap either, but combining the retractable prop with the advantage of a positive contribution to get the CofG at the right spot.
Edited By Max Z on 08/12/2018 18:20:28
|Thread: What can I fly on a 2S battery?|
Richard's Snap Dragon maybe? You could drop the U/C...
Edited By Max Z on 07/12/2018 19:14:24
|Thread: Do you weigh your lipos (I think you should!)|
I cannot make out the C-value of the Zippy, but usually the higher the C-value (discharge rate), the higher the weight.
The Overlander and the Ripmax both seem to be 30C, hence the weights are comparable.
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