Here is a list of all the postings Max Z has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Oracover Brushed Aluminium Film|
FWIIW I have not had any problems with the HK covering, applied on top & bottom with the rx aerial tucked inside.
I had good results with Hobbyking "Bright Silver" film, which has a brushed appearance:
Edited By Max Z on 07/01/2019 10:38:00
|Thread: Retractable SLS Systems|
Another option, probably not cheap either, but combining the retractable prop with the advantage of a positive contribution to get the CofG at the right spot.
Edited By Max Z on 08/12/2018 18:20:28
|Thread: What can I fly on a 2S battery?|
Richard's Snap Dragon maybe? You could drop the U/C...
Edited By Max Z on 07/12/2018 19:14:24
|Thread: Do you weigh your lipos (I think you should!)|
I cannot make out the C-value of the Zippy, but usually the higher the C-value (discharge rate), the higher the weight.
The Overlander and the Ripmax both seem to be 30C, hence the weights are comparable.
|Thread: SBUS SERVOS|
I am wondering how this applies to S.Bus, if at all possible this is usually done in the transmitter programming, or possibly in the receiver setup.
|Thread: Snap Dragon|
I think part of its charm is its small size. My only reason to go a bit bigger would be that I have a spare outrunner weighing 50+ grams, which is quite a bit heavier than the one you used, and some spare Hextronic500 servos weighing 7-8 grams each. I was thinking 20% larger.
|Thread: lipo battery charger|
800 mA to charge a 3000 mAh will take almost 4 hours to charge! I am happy with my 60W Pichler charger, I usually charge at 1C, so a full charge takes 1 hour (up to about 5000 mAh)
And do you want to buy one with an integrated 230V power supply, or are you going to use a separate 12V source? (Most 230V units can also be powered from a 12V source)
|Thread: Comper CLA-7 Swift|
But it would have to be a proper dummy engine of a Pobjoy Bernd, with a reduction gear box and an offset propellor shaft.
|Thread: Snap Dragon|
I tried that too, but it did not work for me, cannot remember exactly why not, I think because you had to set the cap-target on your head in the correct position, and look at your model with one eye only...
Around 2000 I had my first digital camera, and tried to make flying shots with that, but the screen I had to use as viewfinder was hard to see and updated too slow in any case. So i made myself a "gunsight" type of aiming device, with ring and bead. Worked very well, but ofcourse I could not use it when flying at the same time.
Edited By Max Z on 01/11/2018 12:09:12
I like your little Dragon very much! I am still waiting for the November issue, but it stands a good chance that I will be building it.
Your video is of superb quality, I am very impressed, what did you use to produce it? I have been experimenting to get just such a result with a Mobius 2 cam mounted on my cap, but with the standard lens everything got way too small and difficult to see. After mounting an aftermarket lens with a longer focus length this got better, but I did not manage to keep the subject in view all the time.
|Thread: Eachine E013 FPV MR binding problem|
I made an attempt to read the instructions (very crummy english) that Banggood links to, if I interpret chapter 5.0 correctly, you have to switch on the Rx first (by placing the battery) which will have the taillight flashing, then switch the Tx on. The Tx emits a "click" sound, then a "beep" and the "power on" light will come on. The Tx and Rx should then have completed the binding procedure, indicated by the taillight being on permanently. Only then should you open the throttle.
I figured you could benefit maybe from the interpretation of the Chenglish by a non-native english speaker .
Tell us how you fare, I could be talked into buying too.....
Edited By Max Z on 06/10/2018 17:01:13
|Thread: Multiplex Cockpit Sx 9|
As Andy says, go to the Multiplex Technikforum http://technikforum.multiplex-rc.de
The guys there include Multiplex crew and individual users, most of them happy to answer questions in English.
(I think I have seen Frank Skilbeck hovering around there too...Frank S?)
I don't want to sound pedantic, but then again I don't know how big your "gap in understanding" is, do you realise that your Evo 7 should have been converted to M-Link (2.4 gHz)?
Edited By Max Z on 25/09/2018 19:13:59
|Thread: Baby Flea|
Two more flights today, with (very) marginal improvement. I did move the motor forward by 10 mm, and also bent some toe-in into the undercarriage to assist in running straight during takeoff. Both measures improved things slightly, but it still flies tail down. On the second flight we stuffed some extra lead on top of the battery, and again there was some improvement, clearly pointing to the way to go.
As I said before, the problem will be where to put the extra weight to have the best effect. I probably have to do some surgery to the forward-bottom to get to the void beneath the battery support.
The main thing is that with very carefully moving the sticks flying and landing can be managed, and it is still undamaged.
|Thread: Can anyone help me ID this twin?|
The original Do-28 was piston engine powered, this one looks like the G92 turbine variant. The one inside the museum is one of the early A/B/C series, much smaller (6 passengers versus 13).
|Thread: MAK 15 MP|
That looks fantastic! Just the kind of offbeat model I like!
Good luck with the flight testing.
|Thread: Baby Flea|
You know Steve, I did design this one earlier on a smaller scale, THIS one, with the same airfoils, angles and distances. In fact, I just scaled everything up, only modifying some construction details. I looked at the original drawing and noted the CofG was at 55% of the chord from the L/E of the front wing. I balanced the large one at the same %, and since the little one flew great I expected no less from it. Today, my friend Rob (RBCkits) assisted me and when I showed him how it was balanced in the usual way, balancing it on my fingertips and judging the hang angle (which is quite difficult when you are alone) he pointed out that it was still leaning backwards, and probably needs more ballasting up front. Which is what I will try next, and if that is succesful I will tackle the side/down thrust.
Thanks for the comments, cheers,
(btw, love your little Sipa jets )
Edited By Max Z on 13/09/2018 20:26:09
Well.....the first flight is history, and let me first say the baby and me are fine . But it needs "finetuning". For one thing I needed not worrying about rolling, it was what it did best. Keeping a straight line on takeoff is something else, it only wanted to turn left. Side thrust may be a solution here. And as soon as I had taken off it wanted to climb sharply, indicating a tail heavy plane on a normal configured plane, but a lot of down would bring it into a sort of level flight, and that "normal" plane would have gone into a steep dive by then. So is it the CofG? I don't know, but I am going to move it forward to test that, probably by moving the motor forward (The battery is already in its most forward position). Maybe a bit of down thrust too.
I managed to make two flights, each one ending with a decent landing. The thing seems to float reasonably well, but I kept a bit of throttle until just before touchdown. The thing I don't quite understand is how it flew reasonably level with the front wing pivoted all the way forward, resulting in a negative incidence angle relative to the rear wing, but it seemed stable enough, at least at low throttle settings.
Edited By Max Z on 13/09/2018 16:43:45
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