Here is a list of all the postings extra slim has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: YouTube Video you like|
absolutely hilarious!!.. we need this guy to do a tour of the UK... real fun with friends, what a spirit.
|Thread: which is cheaper,IC or ELECTRIC?|
Good on The Wright Stuff for having a stab with his excel skills, which was bang on topic. Now before I provide my feedback, I fly all manner of IC, Glow, Petrol, Diesel, and electric both fixed wing and occasional rotaries and I really dont think about the costs.
For me the example TWS exposed was useful, but missed a few elements:-
1) Under IC, you need to include plug and throttle servo, engine mount
2) I think your fuel pump and model box, could be £10 each (hand pump, and general tool box), plus an ASP 46 is £66
But... what was glaringly missing from my perspective, was the Lipo's, as you offset the cost of the lipo by a number of flights... but didnt do the same for the IC motor. For me the lipo cost should be above the line based on a flying session, and not just one flight, so is a fixed cost.
What I mean is... to get a good benchmark, take a kit built WOT 4 type plane, and a general flying session of say half a day with 5 flights.. on your electric side of the equation, there would need to be I guess 2 options.. either the cost of 5x 4s 3700 batteries (for a WOT 4).. 3s 2200 wouldnt cut it on a balsa WOT or would maybe get your airbourne for about 2 mins. OR.. just a couple of batteries and the cost of a leisure battery to take to the field to charge one, whilst the other is in use..
In doing this, the results are somewhat different.. Just my conclusion is that based on a flying session, not just one flight, smaller models with smaller batteries are cheaper when electric, but somewhere just short of a WOT4 is where there is a break even, and then above..(5s, 6s etc) more expensive.. obviously equipment varies wildly in costs, so this is broad brush..
Luckily, I dont care about the cost and love all forms
|Thread: How to fill a TE / aileron gap ?|
At this size, and being a trainer, then it isnt a huge problem and you could leave it, but I would be tempted to use a film filling hinge especially if IC as already mentioned above. You only need to do one side unless it is looks you are after. On smaller, electric models I just use cellotape diamond clear, aileron bent up, if doing underside, and credit card it in..
|Thread: Glow Sticks|
I use one of these with a 3s lipo.. variable, lipo, swapped crocs for connectors, relatively cheap.. really no complaints
Edited By extra slim on 29/11/2018 14:10:24
|Thread: A Very vintage vintage|
Hi Dave, the louvres are semi effective, there is nowt under the hood to divert all exhaust, so being honest it does tend to exit from many places around the front being diesel, but certainly some does via the louvres.. all adds to the vintage effect.. twas my old fellas design, so I cant take any credit.. the cowl at the front wasnt on the original and he couldnt remember if it ever had one being a knock off free flight engine originally, so he has done quite a nice improvised job.. which is quite rare for him!!. aesthetics arent usually his bad
fabulous day yesterday, and took the opportunity for lots of flights, with the PAW backed off she is lovely, and flies beautifully.. very satisfying.
|Thread: How old are yours?|
I have quite a few models 20yrs plus, still flying, island hobbies capiche 50, Sigma signs freestyle etc, but the oldest model I am currently flying is approx 65yrs old.. yep.. some may have seen my very vintage vintage thread.. but here she is flying just yesterday..
|Thread: Super tigre carb part|
at virtually every swap meet I've been to, there have always been a few ST carbs knocking about at the bottom of a box of bits of engines usually under the bench, mostly missing the needle as it was protruding and prone to being snapped. Shouldnt be that hard to get one. A few come up on ebay quite regulary.
|Thread: Futaba Receivers - any alternatives ?|
It is an interesting debate indeed and sort of centres on the popular belief by many that price is proportional to quality, and quality is proportional to reliability.
From my own experiences down at the field, for many, the use of a branded rx is for the pilots peace of mind in the event of a mishap/crash.. then they can reassure themselves (possibly defend) that they tried to mitigate the risk by using the best recommended equipment for the job, to protect their investment of time and money, and to minimise any safety failures. I know most people would kick themselves if a rx failure resulted in the destruction of a pride and joy, and the rx was a cheaper version. It kind of would feel more acceptable if it was a branded one if you get what I mean, as it eliminates the "what could I have done differently" question.
This transpires into people mostly using branded gear in their pride and joys, and aircraft which have a perceived higher danger impact in the event of a mishap, whilst at the same time, proportionally using a ‘cheaper alternative’ in a less expensive and less perceived danger aircraft..e.g. foamy. I haven’t seen many reflect consciously on the effectiveness of the equipment, but more of a absolution of proportional blame in the event of failures.
It is not just the rx debate that this type of argument applies, I see many people buy expensive servos, “these are 12kg mate, metal gear, digital”… oh right, but why have you used a cheap clevis, which is connected to a poor horn, mounted onto a flimsy bit of balsa on the tail plane, oh and it’s on a petrol, so why haven’t you used Loctite on the servo arm screw or any of the horn bolts???. One well known supplier used to sell a horn set for larger models for a pretty price, they were cast aluminium cones with a threaded end!!.. yikes.. but they were 50 quid a set and Johnny 3D is using them so they must be good!!.. months later, these were changed to a cone with a steel bolt running through instead… but understanding is the key.. not price.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
So when the sun is shining the wind is a mere breath, which models does Paul decide to take to the field???.
I've got around 25 serviceable models which are ready to grab and go.. and deciding which ones to take causes much head scratching. I've even got a spreadsheet telling me when I last flew a model!!!. (Very sad I know), but I would lose track otherwise..
|Thread: A Very vintage vintage|
Lovely job Dave, there hasnt been one around for over 65yrs and now there are 2!!.. looks great
|Thread: Mini / Midi servos|
thanks chaps, good suggestions. I had heard favourable things about corona, but the hyperion one is a great shout Chris. The tx and rx are fine, I know it is the servo, but thanks for checking.
The centering is the key requirement for me, and so what Chris says about the centering of the hyperion is quite appealing.
Noticed this topic hasnt been raised for a few years. I'm recently having centering issues on a hitec HS 5245mg servo, and need to swap it out. I'm running with a direct LiFe but suspect putting a dropper in wont help, so I am on the look out for alternatives. I have some normal 225's, and will stick one of those in with a dropper in the interim, but just wondered with the development of increase in use of some 'cheaper' brands, which models of 16-26g servos people are using??..
|Thread: A Very vintage vintage|
looking great Dave, I heard you were thinking of an OS40!!!.. yikes.. mine has a PAW 1.5cc..and about 2oz of lead under the motor to balance, unless you have scaled it up you will be way over the top with that motor buddy.. with a lifting wing like that, you will also need a boot full of downthrust.. keep going mate..
Been a while, but my 65yr old vintage un named model took to the sky.. 15mph wind wasnt ideal but it flew really well. Not the greatest video, but proof shes back in the air.. quite emotional really!
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
A termite walks into a bar and asks “is the bar-tender here?”
|Thread: Oshkosh airshow live|
Great find, any aircraft enthusiast should look up Oshkosh.. on my bucket list to do one day..
If you go to the link, there are "posts" from yesterday.. about 3 x 2hr videos.. of all sorts of aircraft... brilliant..
Edited By extra slim on 25/07/2018 11:01:21
|Thread: Holding Your Nose|
1) start engine - full throttle - at level - take off - engine dies in climbout
2) return hopefully undamaged model - start engine, full throttle, nose up, engine starts to die/sag, richen mixture, nose up again, engine doesnt die
3) take off, and enjoy rest of the day flying without touching the needle
This is what I usually see lots of times at the field, as someone else mentioned.
|Thread: Enya 4stroke open rocker engine|
Quickie in terms of glow.. alot of us have lots of various charging leads which come with chargers etc.. I use a glow stick, clipped onto the charger bit for it, the other end is a deans, so I have the latter half, deans to croc clips... and clip one on plug and other earthed. works great on a laser 75 which also has a forward facing glow.. work for me.
|Thread: New caption competition|
Ian rehearsing his latest music video of “wind beneath my wing”..
I’ll get my coat!!
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